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Showing results for tags 'engine'.
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Hi all, Just bought a 2020 Crosstrek. I can't stand the engine start-stop feature. How can I disable it? Happy New Year, Jeff in Boston -
So I have a 1997 Impreza outback sport that had a 2.2l in it. I swapped that for a 2.5l out of a 2000 outback and did my best to Frankenstein the harnesses together to get the engine to work. The research I had done previously said that an EJ22 ECU will run an EJ25. So I'm wondering if anyone can help me out if you have any information that may help. I did check and the engine seems to be getting fuel, air, and spark although I'm still unsure about the wiring on the IAC valve.
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Hi, We drained the oil today and some metal parts came out. Looks like halves of some flat spring washer of some sort. Can anyone identify these parts? Does this mean my engine is dead? No other metal or grinding are present in the oil. One of these pieces cam out on the magnetic drain plug. I fished 3 more out with a magnet taped to the end of a wire. Does that account for all of "them" or could there be more in there? Photo attached. My son needs to drive this back to Utah next week. Too much to hope that it's something harmless I suppose. I might be able to drop the pan but I'm not sure if I can get to all the bolts around the frame mount without removing the motor. 1995 Subaru Legacy L wagon. 2.2L motor I think. Thanks.
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Hey guys my names Jonathan, my engine blew in my 2002 Subaru Legacy GT Limited, 2.5L non turbocharged, with a 6th digit VIN. I’m online lookin for motors and came across a 2005 2.5L, but it’s a DOHC and has a turbo as well. Would this be possible to put that in ?and if so how much wiring would I have to be re doing?…… or if it’s a bad idea all in general let me know as well. Thank you -
I need to replace the engine in my 2010 impreza outback sport. What are my options? What engines from what years of what models could I fit in this? Thanks! -
Hi all, This car (2007 Outback Wagon, base) was purchased a few years ago with a blown engine. I put a used engine from LKQin it. It got new timing belt, head gaskets, oil & water pumps etc before going in. It's been pretty good, all things considered. But ,for a long time I had nagging Cyl.1 misfire and a cat efficiency. I'm managed the cat, but not the misfire. >> I did see some fouling on the plug from #1 yesterday... << I have since putting in the used engine, I have done the following in the past 12 months... - Exhaust (not factory dealer) - Plugs, NKG (I'd have to look at which p/n - Plug wires, Belden - they didn't have the NKG and when I did the plugs #4 wire broke at the plug & couldn't wait - radiator - reman injectors (last weekend) I have run two cans of Jectron cleaner through with full tanks of fuel. The bloody check engine light will go out periodically. It has been out a couple of times (on it's own) since doing the injectors, but it comes back. I cleared codes yesterday and it came back about 30 minutes (of driving) later in the second run time of the short trip. I pulled 1 & 3 yesterday evening. Plug 1 did show not as clean & correct color as 3. Some fouling, can't say if it was oil or rich. I swapped 1 & 3 plugs when I put them back in, I'll have to pull and look at them now. I measured resistance for the Belden wires on 1 & 3 and they were close to each other and correct range for radio suppression wires. The engine definitely seems smoother at cold start idle after the injectors and I thought that was the end of P0301, but no! I do find it is idling low and rough after the code reset yesterday, but maybe that's just the system learning again. >>> I have run run a compression test. I will do that and report the numers. Maybe #1 is simply dead, but the car can get average 25 +/- mpg in general driving and low 27+ in highway, doesn't seem like numbers for a 3/4 good engine! >>> I've not replace the coil. Do I just do that next? (it is not COP, unfortunately) ??? This has the little 4 square coil pack and regular plug wires. Is this a "waste spark" type ignition and is there another "corner" of the coil I can swap out plug wires for a test? Please make suggestions for next steps! Parts, tests. Where would you go with this next? My daughter has been driving the car to school & the tabs have expired and I cannot pass emissions with the Check Engine on! Thanks, Tom
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Hey! This is my first post here so I'm sorry if it's poorly written / totally in the wrong place. I accidentally bought a 1999 Impreza OBS with a spun rod bearing in the engine a few months ago. It started showing a couple of weeks ago (major hesitation on acceleration) and I brought it in to the mechanic, only to confirm that that engine was about done without a rebuild. I bought the car with a cracked radiator from another college student so I'm pretty sure it was badly overheated and I don't think it's worth it to do a rebuild anyway :/. MY QUESTION: Has anyone successfully swapped a JDM EJ203 in the place of an EJ22 in the OBS? I can't find any decent EJ22's available online, and I know that the 203's are pretty cheap. Whenever I try to look it up, I really only find things about swapping out an EJ25 from the old legacy outbacks. Any help would be appreciated! -
Got a 2008 Subaru Legacy, I just noticed a large chunk of my timing cover has fallen out. I was looking for a replacement piece, but they all come in 3 parts and for some reaso, my cover is 2 parts with a larger left side. I still have the chunk that fell out would i be able to make a temporary repair for now?
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My work is having me put a short block in a 13 Legacy, 4 cylinder, to address oil consumption. I am a Toyota technician, and have done a handful of head gaskets and pistons in Toyotas, but have little to know engine experience with Subaru. Are there any additional resources or videos you guys know of on that repair? Otherwise, I will just be following alldata. I have seen countless accounts from Toyota technicians of blowing up FRS motors doing the Valve Spring recall. I have also seen weird posts about the cam gears spinning or not locking. Just trying to educate myself as much as I can before attempting the repair. -
I'm doing long-deferred maintenance and repairs on a 2002 Impreza Wagon 2.5 TS. The car was operated by someone who knows little about cars (but drives like he's still teaching the Offensive Driving and Escape Course at bodyguard school. (Once drove 300 miles in 4.2 hours on roads that DOT would have closed following an earthquake.) The (originally US) car is located in Panama. (As I write, I can look out the window and physically see the "End of the Internet" before the footpath enters the rainforest on the other side of the river.) Parts are a challenge, especially as the 2.5L motor was not sold in Panama. I have the luxury of making my own schedule and no wife to harass me, unlike him. Modifications I would like to add: Slight lift Replace or rebuild the front seats Dash and rear cameras with DVR Navigation or display system (preferably one that connects through the phone so I don't have to pay for another data subscription) Cruise control Reflash ECU And why: I'm not looking at anything special, but sometimes water levels get rather high (the car has been known to 'float' across some low-lying intersections in downpours) and it is showing some 'saggy butt' phenomenon. Given that the suspension components are original from the factory in the US and it has 175K miles on the odometer, I am not surprised. a lift of 1-2 inches (2.5 - 5cm) would help immensely with scraping the undercarriage on some of the roads. The seats are pretty worn looking and the cushioning is about gone from the above driver (who now has back issues - so a lumbar cushion would be great for him.) Cameras are a must for insurance reasons. (Fraud, etc.) White people all live in mansions, you know, and make our spending money speculating on the stock market and playing polo. (I know you all are relating to this lifestyle. I sarcastically explained this to a lawyer (who busted out laughing), but her secretary was incredulous, "Of course, like on the television!") I wish I was joking, but it really happened... Navigation system would be helpful for using Waze, which is useful for tracking the speed traps and the traffic accidents. ("Didn't you know that my husband is a big-shot politician so I can cut you off without warning, Mister BigTruck? How dare you hit my overpriced luxury SUV even though I am violating the traffic laws!") Commercial vehicles cannot move to the side of the road until the special traffic investigators arrive, of which there are few. Collide with a truck or a taxi and cancel the rest of your plans for the day. Cruise control is a 'nice to have'. Not sure it is worth it. ECU is programmed from the factory to run best at 87 Octane. Only fuels available here are 91 Octane and 95 Octane, which burns out the O2 sensors in minutes. Car backfires, but runs fine in 'limp home mode' with a steady CEL. It currently gets about 28 MPG with the #2 O2 sensor bypassed and has been driven like this for about 100K miles without noticeable damage. There are no emissions testing and the ones that do exist are not enforced (as one can see from the trucks belching thick black smoke every time they hit the accelerator.) Compliance with EPA rules is not required. Forester parts are more plentiful (due to the off-road like paved roads.) Before I pay for the parts (returns are not permitted in most stores) I want to make sure that I don't have to special order something from the States (in which case I will throw it into a suitcase next trip to save on air freight costs.) One of the benefits of 'white privilege' is that one has the added bonus of having to pay a 'premium' on almost everything. I'm in the US about twice a year. Other than that, I can use parts from anywhere. Trying to keep costs down on a car that will probably cost the equivalent in parts and labor to fix as it is worth. The info on the board has been wonderful, but I am concerned about manufacturers changing things over the years and the parts that once worked being no longer available (or not acting the same way). Bless you all. I'll post a photo later when it stops raining. so hard.
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Warm engine, 1,000 rpm, 50+ psi, 4,000rpm, about 30 psi oil pressure. This seems bass ackwards! Is it a problem? -
Hello, I am looking at a Subaru where it is a loud ticking noise from the engine. Look at the video linked: It apparently started when the person startet up the car and the car suddenly revs higher and higher by itself. They managed to stop it without any problem. Sounded like a turbo problem, but after a look on it it seems like that is not the case. Don't see why it would tick like that either. Diagnosed the fuel flow into the cylinder and that seems fine... Can the chain make this noise?, even though I don't think that'sit. Its a Subaru Impreza 150hk 2010 model. I am completely new to Subaru. -Thanks for the help -
We own a 2003 Subaru Forester XS 2.5L, VIN 6, 6th digit. Unfortunately, the engine heads and block cracked. We are searching for another 2.5L engine that would work. Main Question: What years/models come with a compatible engine for the 2003 Forester? For example, would a 2.5L from a 1999 Legacy work? Thank you in advance. -
My 2007 Outback with 236,000 miles pings. It pings a lot. Anything off idle it makes pinging noise. Cannot hear it with windows up. Tried Seafoam SS14 three times, Sunoco 94, octane booster. First bottle of Seafoam seemed to help but three days later it was back. New knock sensor. New timing belt. -
Hello! I am in a situation where I received a mint condition Subaru Forester 2007, no turbo, ej25. The only issue with this car is the fact that it had a front accident which busted an engine cylinder, I am looking to replace the engine as a whole and am looking at local pull-a-part's to buy the engine. My question is if anyone more knowledgeable about Subaru's can suggest which Subaru engines will be compatible with this model (apart from obviously finding the same model). From my research, I've heard there are certain Impreza and Outback models that have the engine, but I am not entirely sure so I thought I'd ask. Any help is appreciated! Thank you. -
I am looking for a 2 barrel intake manifold and carburetor for my 82 Brat. I rebuilt the original one barrel with a fualty kit, bad acelator pump. I would like to switch to the 2 barrel. Are there any 2 barrel adaptors for a one barrel manifold or a different one barrel carb I could subsitute. I have been looking on ebay and locally with no success. Please help. -
I just did a clutch replacement on a 1984 4WD GL. I replaced the rear main engine seal, and the orange gasket featured in this video It looks like the oil pan gasket is leaking, and also I have some oil in the clutch housing. Can oil leaking from the oil pan gasket migrate up into the clutch housing? The bottom of the clutch bell housing is open. I am hoping it can, it would be an easy fix. Otherwise, I am looking at fixing a leak in the transmission.
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Blast, double post. Moderator, please delete.
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I am ready to put the engine in, but first I need to install the oil pump. "Keep Your Subaru Alive" says to not to use gasket sealant when installing the oil pump. The surface the pump will attach to is scratched, is "no gasket sealant" still the best course of action? Hopefully, picture below
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Hey everyone - I have a 2006 Impreza wagon. Last oil change, the mechanic brought me over and pointed out this circular piece. Said it was leaking fuel, but that it might be easy to fix myself. My problem - I have no idea what it's called, where to find it and if it's safe to fix myself. I'm worried about any pressure build-up, etc. Any ideas? Thanks in advance for the help!
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The condition is: I have a 1984 GL 4WD Wagon, and the engine is out of it. The oil pump, and crank pulley are removed. The front main engine seal needs to be replaced. Can I replace the front main engine seal after I put the engine back into the car? I wonder if there will be room to do this.
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I have disconnected all the stuff from the engine needed to pull it. I'm going to pull it tomorrow. I will replace the clutch, and the rear oil seal. Is there any other easy convenient thing I should do while the engine is out?
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Hello everyone, My first time over here. I have had my 2000 subaru legacy GT for almost a year now and there has been a huge problem that i cant find an answer for. everytime i think ive found it i find something else. ill get right down to it and hopefully someone on here could give me a hand. i would really appreciate it. in the car i have the battery light and the handbrake light on. my DRLs never worked and neither did my fog lights. now tonight i was outside playing with it once again and realized that everything works fine once i unplug the 3pin connector from the alternator. so the car is running off the battery. drls come on, fog lights work, and bat/ebrake light turns off. and STAYS OFF. once i replug the alternator back on the drls shut off and everything is back the way it was. ive tested the alternator and its charging at a constant 14.10V and the battery always stays at 12.30V and remember the car has been this way since i got it almost a year ago. if the alternator was really dead or overcharging i wouldnt have made it all through the winter dailying it lol. im really stumped with what it could be .. ive tested every thing all the way down to the ebrake switch and fog light switch (before i discovered the alternator plug). If anyone knows whats up id really appreciate the info. i dont have the money to dump into an alternator at the moment so i really hope that there is a way to fix this issue as it would suck to throw away a working alternator. -
Hi. Newbie posting, so please bear with me and hopefully I've included all pertinent information. Vehicle is a 1998 Legacy Outback with auto transmission. 290k miles with a new engine about 90k miles ago and rebuilt tranny about that same time. Fluids/maintenance done regularly. College kids car. Daughter came home from college the other day and said the vehicle is making a strange sound. Not obnoxious at all, but she has driven the car for years and knows it sounds and feel, and noticed this noise which started about a month or so ago. As best as I can describe it, the sound is kind of a waah waah waah repeating sound, kind of a circular repeating sound. Take a clock for instance, if one was to rotate the minute hand and every time the hand passed between say 12 and 1, it would transmit this 'waah' sound. Car runs fine. Engine runs strong. Transmission shifts fine. The sound can be heard when in Park and idling, as well as when driving. Also heard it in Reverse. Got under the car, and the sound seems to be coming from the area in which the bell housing connects to the engine. I shot a short video/audio from under the area of the bell housing/engine where the sound is emanating, Not the most tech savvy here, couldn't get the video uploaded, but posted it out on youtube so if you wouldn't mind referencing that link, I would be most appreciative: youtu.be/9jbAaPBpd5k With that long winded story in mind, would anyone have any ideas as to what this might be? Don't want to send her back to school with it should it be something serious. Thanks in advance! And big thanks to those that have responded already -
have a 98 outback, 2.5 engine was replaced or rebuilt at 150k. (bad head gasket failure) (This engine was getting 30 mpg on our trip when it starting showing signs of loosing coolant). Anyway, since I can ever remember, even before the engine problems, when it was started and was warming up, it has a vibration that is rythmic. it comes and goes like a pulse, as the engine warms up, i don't notice it anymore. I ask, because; if my engine was replaced, why does it still have this same charactistic vibration? I have replaced some of the usual wear out parts like battery, alternator, starter, radiator, batt cables, plugs/wires, but not a lot of sensors. I just check it a few days ago and got a 1507 code, and seafomed the iac. have not had an idle problem since, and no more engine light, which I saw for the first time. Still has the funky vibration on warm up... My other question? Why does it sound like the squeeky creaky when you hop in, drive real slow, come to a stop and its like the suspension 'settles', with a creak... any ideas anyone? my code reader said every reads ok, (except i had no speedo at the time so it said 0 for it, and the affor mentioned 1507 code) Gots more power and seems to be doing better on mpgs now too...
