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Showing results for tags 'exhaust'.
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Hello all, My wife drives an '05 Outback Wagon base model, 2.5 H4 non-turbo. 100,000 miles, barely broken in. Exhaust leaks started a few months ago. Brought it in to my local mechanic and I'm not sure what to do. He says the entire exhaust system is too rusty to salvage anything. So, I'm not sure what the heck to do. $4,000 for a catalytic converter? $6,000 for the whole exhaust system? I'm not an idiot, I fix old Citroens for a hobby. But I just don't know what to do here. I understand that junkyards are forbidden to sell catalytic converters. Can anyone suggest a way I can keep this car on the road? Really don't want to drop $15k for a used car which will be no better than the '05 Outback, which is pretty much perfect as a family car. THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR ANY ADVICE! Jeff Boston '05 Outback/'16 Forester/'72 Citroen SM -
Hello all, My '05 Outback 2.5 5 speed needs a complete exhaust system, including the catalytic converter. Not sure what to do. Would like to spend $2k-$3k. Can anyone suggest a junkyard to get a used cat? Can anyone suggest a decent aftermarket exhaust system? I want to give my mechanic some ideas so we get this done properly and at reasonable cost. Thanks in advance for any suggestions. Jeff in Boston
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It looks like I could use shorter studs if I remove this part. Will the y pipe bolt directly to the block? I am going to do the Weber conversion, so no need for the exhaust gas. So, is there any good reason to leave it on there?
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The engines on my 84 gl 4wd wagon, and my ‘85 Brat look pretty much the same. Are the exhaust systems the same?
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The Y piece, catastrophic converter is available from RockAuto, and the muffler, surprisingly, available on eBay. The piece between them, I guess called the “Resonator “ costs $180 from Autozone! Is this my only option?;
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I recently purchased a 2018 Subaru legacy 2.5i limited and I absolutely love it. the more I drive it the more I wish I could hear the exhaust of the car. I have been looking at ordering a new exhaust for it. my question is: Is there any performance enhancements that I could do by swapping out some of the factory exhaust system for a bigger or better system? im not looking to take it on the track or anything just looking to make it sound meaner and if I can get some extra performance out of it id spend the extra money. thanks, Wisconsin Kyle -
Hi guys, I have a 2010 WRX thats only hitting about 9lbs of boost on 91 octane SF Intake stage 1 tune Cobb AP. I was wondering if this is normal or should i be seeing higher PSI Levels? I also have noticed a exhaust smell coming from engine bay on passenger side....thumb.jpg.b4db20b2f1ae50613d33110c73128c3e.jpg)
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Hi Guys, I'm currently in Vancouver BC, Canada. On a migratory road trip from Utah to Alaska in my trusty 87 GL Wagon. Before I took off I worked on and fixed everything I could think of to try and make it a solid and dependable ride for the trip, I noticed I had a rusted out hole in the seam of my muffler, but it didn't seem to be effecting performance and basically just made the car sound like it had a glass pack muffler on it so I let it slide. I've never done any exhaust work before aside from replacing manifolds, and accidentally pulling one of my studs out of the cylinder head when I re-sealed the engine (Still gotta helicoil that or something) Then on my way through Grand Forks, British Columbia, they just so happened to be in the middle of a 200 year flood, but the road was still open, so I drove through ~2-3 feet of water on their main drag downtown. (Here's a video I shot if you're interested to see what that looked like) When I arrived in Vancouver, and was idling at the stoplights on my way to a friend's place, the exhaust started rattling so loudly that I thought it had come loose and was somehow smacking the body of the car. That rattle comes and goes now, only when I'm idling. The engine idles at about 1000rpm when it's warm now instead of 700 like it used to, I've got a sort of noticeable power loss, and my gas mileage has dropped 4-6MPG. I'm pretty well assuming the muffler needs to be replaced, it sounds like there's something loose in there that knocks loudly at idle and is partially blocking airflow. So here's what I'm wondering as I'm thinking about getting this fixed and moving on towards Alaska: -It looks like the exhaust essentially has a front and a rear section, so provided I can get a new rear section here, is this something I would be able to do in someone's driveway (assuming someone will loan me their driveway) with a pretty basic socket and wrench toolbox? That's what I've got. -Anything weird I should keep an eye out for while looking for parts?(gaskets, springs?, bolts, Junkyards maybe?) I've never bought parts in Canada before. -If I do too much running around with my exhaust a little messed up like this is there some potential engine damage in my future? I imagine this can't be too good for it. -In the meantime would I be better off just cutting off the muffler and running a straight pipe? Since I'll be replacing it anyway? It's late so I'll probably post some photos tomorrow, any thoughts or advice would be much appreciated. Thanks a million, as always guys
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I'm looking at Subaru's website to get some exhaust gaskets for my 93 loyale. My question is what gasket goes where? on the website - https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_1993_Loyale-WAGON-TURBO/_54102_6024433/EXHAUST-REAR/A11-440-C1.html it has the same part number for three different exhaust gaskets. I'm guessing the crush gasket goes in between the resonator and y pipe, but I have no clue about the other two. The two I'm talking about almost look interchangeable (one has a divot on the sides). Who knows which goes where?
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What is recommended for replacing exhaust parts on 2007 2.5 ltr Outback? The 'Y' section between the mid muffler and the final L/R mufflers has rotted but everything else looks good. -
Here is a photo of an exhaust manifold stud which I removed. There is aluminum stuck to about five turns of the thread, at the end. What should I replace the studs with? The pitch is m10 1.25. Should I tap the holes at 1.25, or drill them out and go larger? Mkoch
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I have a 2017 Forester XT 2.0 Turbo which developed an engine noise that at first I thought was ignition knocking, because the onset of noise was during summer and it had not occurred earlier in the year. The noise manifested itself only at full throttle and high rpm -- which made me very alarmed. Despite chats with at least 3 Subaru dealer service advisors, no one came up with a better suggestion than "don't use Costco fuel". In August, I myself was underneath the car and noticed the attached photo appearance which immediately suggested to me a possible exhaust leak. I now found the service advisors at least agreed I should bring my car in. The surprise ending is, Yes I did have an exhaust leak, but NO it was NOT what shows in the picture. They wire-brushed the flange shown, and convinced themselves that is not a crack, just a casting effect. (I still don't think much of it though). Our exhaust leak was not at the photo location, but rather at the right-hand cylinder bank exhaust manifold, where they told me a nut had backed off, and then allowed the gasket to fail. I'd be most interested to hear if other FA20 Turbo engines are similarly misbehaving. Has there been a engine assembly problem with inadequate bolt-torquing? Or poor design of exhaust manifolds? Or poor metallurgy?? I'd also be interested to hear whether other FA20 Turbo engines have exhaust flange castings which look as bad as my photo. Has anyone actually had a failure in this location? (immediately downstream of the turbocharger) Mark Sandstrom Seattle
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1992 Loyale with 187K I poured water into the intake port on the head and found out that three valves leak. I am going to rent a valves spring compressor and address that. Should I do the fourth one? When I poured water into the exhaust port there were no leaking exhaust valves. Why? Should I do them too? I have never done that kind of work so any suggestions/recommendations will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Sam
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Hey guys, I need some help with my full exhaust setup. I am trying to make it bolt on in 3ish pieces: header, cats, and catback (2 pieces). I'm going bolt on to avoid any welding as I have a limited budget. My current exhaust is rusty and the previous owner replaced the flanged with pipes and added a welded in flexpipe which has failed with a gnarly crack/leak. What I'm buying: Inferno Fabrications single port uel header (2.25") OBX catback (2.25") made for the 1998-2001 Impreza RS. What I am looking to buy/have found: Aftermarket catalytic converter (1 piece) made to fit in 2.5L (1997-2005 Legacys, Foresters, Outbacks, and 2.5L Impreza's). Does anyone know the inlet/outlet diameter size of these catalytic converters or what size donuts or flanges to use? I've been searching on many forums (here,nasioc, rs25, and a few others) but can't seem to find an answer. Any input would be appreciated. -
would it be possible to cut the oem header on the red line and plug it into a collector similar to the one in the image linked (see images) to do a diy cat delete then run straightpipe to a flange to a catback exhaust? my state doesnt do inspections or emissions regulations and id like to make it louder and slightly stronger i can't find a catless header for my car under $700 and if this will work it would only cost about $50 plus a reflash to keep the cel off
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Hi there! I'm new to this forum, thanks for all the awesome knowledge you guys are piling up here. I just got a good deal on a 2001 Outback 4 Cyl Manual, low miles, looking good. The down side: it need timing belt work and at least a new front exhaust pipe (unweldable holes and rust...). Although he whole exhaust system could be replaced at this point, it has been 'mended' several times. I know that I can look between (roughly) 2000-2003 Outback models for replacement parts. So my question is: can anybody tell me a more accurate range of different models to look for the 4 main parts of the full exhaust system? (specially the front pipe) Any help is welcome!! Thanks -
Hello everyone, my 1995 Legacy Outback (340K miles now ) has thrown the dreaded PO420 code, I noticed that Subaru has discontinued OEM catalytic converters. Is there a replacement OEM part # or will I need to go aftermarket? If I need to go aftermarket, what is a quality company to purchase replacement CC's from? Thanks for you help. I am the original owner of this car, it just keeps running so well, no need to replace it! -
BLUF: Could failing/poorly functioning catalytic converter be related to/caused by previous gasket head cracks or by repair work done to replace cracked gasket head?? Mechanically challenged 08 Forester owner here. A few months ago, we found out that the gasket head was cracked. Right after we picked it up, we noticed that it seemed to have less power and, very obviously, the gas mileage was lower. The repair shop did not believe (or at least admit) that there was any connection between the replaced gasket head work and the substantial reduction (I calculated it to be about 3-5 MPG difference) in fuel efficiency. Three months after the repairs, the check engine lights came on. The repair shop advised that the sensors showed that the catalytic converter was failing/had failed. They said there was little difference in temperatures going in and going out of the catalytic converter system (I'm simplifying what they said but that sums it up). I asked about whether it could be caused by the engine not "burning" all of the gas, but they said that if that were the case the error codes would be different. And that I need a new catalytic converter. I'm hesitant to shell out the cost without knowing why it failed (so that it doesn't fail again and I'm looking at buying another one. Is there a way to determine why the CC failed? Should I take it for a second opinion? What other questions should I ask? Many thanks in advance for your help. -
Hey everyone. I have a 01 Legacy Outback sedan that I just replaced the entire exhaust. The header is Emusa brand with unequal lengths. The shop only put one cat on and a Flowmaster muffler. I believe the pipe width is either 2.25'' or 2.5". The car has an awesome deep sound until you get to the muffler, and then it RATTLES. I took it back to the shop to have the hangers checked and they told me that the rattle was from so much air flow and that a resonator would help with the rattle. The real reason I had the exhaust replaced was because the Check Engine light came on, and Advanced said that it was either a bad cat or O2 sensor. The muffler shop told me that my O2 sensors were fine, and like I said, they replaced one of the Cats and deleted the other BUT when I had them check the computer, they said that Subaru's require 2 cats. My check engine light came back on after the reset and now it is shaking like crazy at stops with the car in Drive. Three questions: 1. What will get the rattle out of my exhaust? 2. Does Subaru require 2 Cats or do I need to replace my O2s? 3. How do I fix the shaking at stops with the car in drive? I am including the link for the Header so that you all can see exactly what I bought. http://www.speedyracer.com/headers/exhaust-parts/headers/1999-2005-SUBARU-IMPREZA-25L-RS-SOHC-HEADER-STAINLESS I have not gotten to do a lot of maintenance to the car yet. (I got excited with Income Tax, I know.) I have replaced the following: Air filter Cabin air filter PCV valve Fuel Filter (Octane Booster also) Synthetic Oil Change -
My 2004 Subaru Outback wagon suddenly got super loud on acceleration, and I'm guessing this broken pipe is the culprit? (Pic attached.) Can anyone tell me exactly which part this is, and a general idea of how expensive it might be to repair? Is it just a welding issue, or will the part need to be replaced? Any DIY exhaust repair options I could try? I do most minor repairs myself, but I have no welding tools. I can't afford much, so I'm trying to educate myself to ensure I don't get ripped off. I'm new in town, my trusty Subaru guru is 500 miles away. Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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98 OBW w/ 2.2 240K miles The back story. Three years and 5K miles ago I performed significant exhaust repair. I replaced the rear catalytic converter, O2 sensor, center pipe and muffler all due to rust. I purchased the parts off the internet. All of them were aftermarket. I could not get things bolted together tightly so I did end up at a local exhaust shop that tightened things up for me including extended the center pipe for a $100. I am writing this up to provide some encouragement when things go bad and to provide all of the parts that will fit perfect without any trips to the shop. If I had to take this to the shop I probably would have sold the car as-is due to the cost of the repair Present day Nov 2015. I thought this would be a 5 minute $5 fix. I had a leak where the Y-pipe meets the head. I proceeded to unbolt the y-pipe with the impact wrench and snapped an exhaust stud. I was able to remove the other three with nut and stud as one piece. They were fused together due to rust. Now I needed the exhaust out of the way. Unbolting the y-pip from the front cat is not worth the pain of working on your back so I pulled down the entire exhaust for a good inspection. Things just got worse from here. One broken exhaust stud in the block. Rear stud driver side. (worst one to snap) The y-pipe head flanges where rusted out. I could see black exhaust trails flowing down the head. The three year old non-oem replacement catalytic converter (Walker 16090) had advanced rust issues on the flanges and the hanger was half rusted out. (I purchased this off Amazon and it had a 5 year warranty). They replaced it without any issue. Unable to remove generic O2 Sensor (BOSCH 15726) from the catalytic converter The three year old non-oem center pipe had a huge hole on the top of the resonator. Could not find any receipts for this one. Removing the exhaust stud There are many tricks to get this done. I had no access to welding equipment. I did not even bother with the EZ out tools because there was no way I was getting more torque then what was available before the bolt head snapped off. 1) Get a new hack saw blade and wrap one side with a towel so you can hold it comfortable. Use oil and cut the stud flush with the head if it is not already thatway. 2) Center punch the stud 3) Drill a pilot hole using a ¼ Colbalt drill bill. Drill to the depth that the other empty stud holes are at. You can measure this by dropping in the drill bit in an empty hole and wrapping tap around the bit as a marker. DO NOT DRILL TOO DEEP. 4) Now drill the hole for a second time using a 5/16 Cobalt drill bit. I used a DeWalt DWA1220 and it cut like butter. 5) Now it is time to tap the hole. I used an IRWIN 10mm – 1.25 that picked up off eBay. THIS IS A CRITICAL TIME. You need to do this by hand. Since I broke the stud located in the worst spot I had to put the tap into ¼ 12 inch extension and then insert the extension into the hand tool. I will include a picture of this. At most I was able to turn the tap 1/16 of an inch before I had to pull it out and blow the metal shavings off with compressed air and re-oil the tap. This entire process from step 1 took me 6 hours over the course of a week to complete. Do not lose faith here. This is very slow going. If you break the drill bit or the tap in the stud hole you will need a new head. Careful work here is worth it. Do the math. I also chased the other three holes. I was very surprised to see all of the shavings that came out. Cover everything in anti-seize I went with new OEM studs and nuts instead of the old fused stud/bolt that I pulled off. For $20 I thought it was worth going new. The exhaust will go on exactly as it was taken off. When it comes to exhaust parts I am generally ok with aftermarket except the gaskets used between the y-pipe and the head. Use OEM. This is just my experience. This parts list worked perfectly for my 98 Subaru Outback with 2.2 engine. The 2.2 engine is a single port exhaust. If you have the 2.5 you have dual port exhaust on the head and will need a different Y-pipe and head exhaust gaskets. Parts List (1) Y-pipe Part# 2100-58201-2. Manufacture: AUTOPART International - eBay (2) Gasket between Y-Pipe and Engine. Part# 44011AC020. Manufacture Subaru - eBay (1) Gasket between Y-Pipe and front catalytic converter. Part# 2107-00288. Manufacture: AUTOPART International – Came with the y-pipe (2) Gasket between front and rear catalytic converter. Between center pipe and muffler Part# 31388. Manufacture: Walker - Amazon (1) Flex joint donut gasket between rear catalytic converter and center pipe. Part# 31697. Manufacture: Walker - Amazon (1) Spring Bolt Kit used to connect center pipe to rear catalytic converter. Part# 35412. Manufacture: Walker - Amazon (1) O2 Sensor for rear catalytic converter. Part# 15726. Manufacture BOSCH - Amazon (1) Rear catalytic converter. Part# 16090. Manufacture Walker. (Warranty replacement for me) - Amazon (4) Exhaust Studs. Part# 800910550. Manufacture Subaru - eBay (4) Exhaust Stud Bolts. Part# 902370029. Manufacture Subaru - eBay The parts total was $255. I have 10 hours labor in this job. If I had a shop complete this work I am guessing the total would have been $1,000 to $1,400. -
Guys! there's so much info on here about this notorious tod. but i guess i'm curious because the videos i've seen to listen to the sound are all very persistent with a steady tick. i'm reading up on it because... well, i have it. i've had it for a few k's now. it is getting louder. it stops abruptly, then fades in. and sometimes, it doesn't happen at all, but does usually more and more so now. doesn't tick on the highway. the idle jumps up from 700 to 1200 and back down to 700 over and over. not always. it used to always, but i found a small hose disconnected from the charcoal filter with a mosquito clogging the end of it. removed the mosquito, replugged the hose, and the idle returned to normal. that was about 9k ago. now, it's doing it again, but the hose is still connected. i'm a little baffled. do these sound like TOD symptoms? i've read it might be a small exhaust leak? oh yes, also, it makes a delicate rattling sound from under the hood whenever i'm using lots of gas. for example: climbing a hill at a low rpm. as an after thought, my mechanic told me that this particular tick might not be the tick of death and could be something internal with the engine, in which case, paying to fix the TOD would render futile. although, he did not hear the tick, it's only been described to him as i have to you. i recently replaced the oil i use synthetic 10w-30 and used a little seafoam to see if it might help clean things up. but to no avail. anyways, i'd really appreciate some advice before i fork over the $500 to get the oil pump replaced. thanks dudes!
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Just wondering what upgrade options are available for my Brighton. Want to do the exhaust, and intake, as well as lowering suspension. Is the aftermarket limited for this car or can I go aftermarket for other subies and have them fit. If not ill have to go custom. I appreciate any info and thanks in advance for your help. -
Hello everyone - Well, I went ahead and bought a wagon, and it came with a..a... I don't even know what it is, but it sounds like a bomb going off while I drive. I'd like an exhaust system that is relatively quiet but that babies the engine a bit. I need to drive up and lot of steep hills. Can anyone suggest what I should be looking for? Thanks!
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So I'm in the process of revamping my exhaust. I've taken the ASV brackets off of the exhaust manifold, and I'm going to extend my Y-pipes up to the engine itself without the brackets. I took the old crusty gaskets out, and I'm buying new ones. But all of the gaskets that it seems I can order are just simple rings, whereas the ones that I took off were the shape of the pipe flanges on my Y-pipes. My engine is an EA81 on my '83 BRAT. What kind of gaskets do you guys have at this spot? Will the simple, circular ones work? My whole point of working on the exhaust in the first place was to keep it from leaking right at this spot, so I want something that will hold well.
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