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Showing results for tags 'frankenmotor'.
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I finally pulled the short block (SOA478H600R1) that I purchased a couple months ago out of the box and put onto a stand. Changed out the 7mm oil pump for a 9mm that I had (I don't think I'll need a 10mm as I'm a conservative driver, and this is just for a DD project). Looking at the pistons, they're labeled as 255 SH. Is this going to be a problem mounting with DOHC heads? When I was talking with a subaru parts tech over the phone I had specified that I wanted an EJ251 or EJ253 short block for '03-'05, and they had given me the part number. I had then talked with a different Parts Tech, and they confirmed that that part number was for what I had specified. Are the pistons the same? I thought the 255s were used with the AVL systems, and can't work with pre-AVLS. . Should I be looking for new pistons now? The current motor in my car is an EJ from a 2001 Impreza, with DOHC heads. I wanted to recreate the build as it is generally a nice and powerful (enough) motor. Also, I bought a brand new subaru water pump because I thought the stock one that came on the block was supposed to be forward facing.... What showed up is identical to the spare I bought. They are identical, right? Thanks all, Greg
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Take a look at this one frankenmotor in a 1991 Miata called the Miata One. miataone.com
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Ok, I have read many forums with many conflicting replies with the following pursuit. A Ej25 block with EJ22 heads for higher compression. The following are my perameters of the build that I hope you guys can help me with. 1). I have limited room for this build. This is not going into subaru, so I have a maximum engine width to be 28 1/2", rocker cover to rocker cover. so I believe I will need phase 1 heads to do this. 2). I would like it to be SOHC. not DOHC not enough room and heavier. 3). It must be NA, so no forced induction of any kind please. 4). I would like it use existing available parts from donor. 5). Which ECU for up to 6500rpm? 6). Which head gaskets and will I need? And will I need to port the combustion chamber to match the cylinders? 7). Any other info that would help? 8). What would the estimated compression come to? What is the best way to start this project and with what phases,1 or 2 and years of these heads and blocks I would like the outcome to be around 185 crank hp or more if possible. And be a more mid range rpm. I don't require a high revving motor.
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So I have a spare ej22 shorblock from a 94 Legacy and was wondering if one can build a more dependable Subie (these 2.5's are time bombs!) by placing the ej253 heads from a 2008 Forester on that eJ22 shortblock. Anyone have experience with this sort of Frankenmotor? -
I'm attempting to turbo my N/A ej22, car is a 1999 Legacy L 30th Anniversary edition. I don't see why a phase 2 ej25 head won't mate up with the phase 2 ej22 block and they are both SOHC but I know that there is greater wisdom than I posses lurking in these forums. My ej22 block has single port heads and I want to swap them our for the ej25 duel port heads in order to run boost. what issues do I face? will the heads mate right up to the ej22 in a "plug and play" way? will my stock ECU know what to do with the ej25 cam? Any general advice? I will also be switching the full intake manifold so advice on that would be greatly appreciated. Are there different sensors I need to be aware of? Line placement issues? -
I have just recently gotten back into wrenching on Subarus again. It has been a little bit since I have done any gasket work and I want to make sure I have good information before I start laying down hard earned money for parts. 1. I am looking to put together a frankenmotor with a 97 or 98 2.5 DOHC shortblock and 95 2.2 heads. Both EGR compatible. I understand I need to use 2.5 oem head gaskets. I have heard some recommend gaskets for a 2.5 turbo engine for this application, but have not heard a specific part number or vehicle type to order turbo gaskets for. 2. I believe I am correct that the remaining gaskets needed can be sourced aftermarket without issue, keeping in mind that cam and crank seals need to be the brown rubber, not the black. Fel-pro etc. ok for valve cover, intake, exhaust, oil pump, etc.? 3. Oil separator seal- Grey RTV good? I'm installing the steel oem replacement. 4. I read the thread on the Gates timing belt kits. Any other recommended aftermarket supplier manufacturer/supplier? 5. Different vehicle- 2006 Forester NA 2.5 SOHC- It is due for timing belt again coming up on 200k miles. Head gaskets are seeping oil at a slow rate. Minor annoyance, but I will probably do the head gaskets and timing belt all at once. I have never worked on one of these engines but expect it to be similar to the 2000 and 2002 sohc 2.5s I have done timing belts on before. Anything else I need to do while I am in there? Do I need to pull the oil pump and check the screws? anything else? Turbo or NA head gaskets? OEM or aftermarket? 6. The head gasket tightening steps? The information in my old Haynes manual I don't believe is accurate. Can someone post the head torqueing instructions for my 97 and my 06 please? -
I have just recently gotten back into wrenching on Subarus again. It has been a little bit since I have done any gasket work and I want to make sure I have good information before I start laying down hard earned money for parts. 1. I am looking to put together a frankenmotor with a 97 or 98 2.5 DOHC shortblock and 95 2.2 heads. Both EGR compatible. I understand I need to use 2.5 oem head gaskets. I have heard some recommend gaskets for a 2.5 turbo engine for this application, but have not heard a specific part number or vehicle type to order turbo gaskets for. 2. I believe I am correct that the remaining gaskets needed can be sourced aftermarket without issue, keeping in mind that cam and crank seals need to be the brown rubber, not the black. Fel-pro etc. ok for valve cover, intake, exhaust, oil pump, etc.? 3. Oil separator seal- Grey RTV good? I'm installing the steel oem replacement. 4. I read the thread on the Gates timing belt kits. Any other recommended aftermarket supplier manufacturer/supplier? 5. Different vehicle- 2006 Forester NA 2.5 SOHC- It is due for timing belt again coming up on 200k miles. Head gaskets are seeping oil at a slow rate. Minor annoyance, but I will probably do the head gaskets and timing belt all at once. I have never worked on one of these engines but expect it to be similar to the 2000 and 2002 sohc 2.5s I have done timing belts on before. Anything else I need to do while I am in there? Do I need to pull the oil pump and check the screws? anything else? Turbo or NA head gaskets? OEM or aftermarket? 6. The head gasket tightening steps? The information in my old Haynes manual I don't believe is accurate. Can someone post the head torqueing instructions for my 97 and my 06 please?
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Greetings Subaru Enthusiasts. I drive an 85 Volkswagen Vanagon that has an early nineties Legacy 2.2. The setup I used is CA Smog Compliant. I live in Washington so I have more flexibility with engine choices and not just 90-94 Legacy 2.2s. I need some help with my engine and hoping you guys can shed some light on my situation. I am on my second Legacy 2.2 (first installed in 2010, second in 2012). I used to live in California so was forced to get old motors out of wrecks. Each engine was over 160,000 miles. On the last install I took the heads off and had them resurfaced, a valve job and all new seals/rings. That was 3.5 years ago. That engine always drank oil. I thought it was due to me living in the mountains and driving downhill. This past Fall I drove back to California and at times I was consuming more than 1qt of oil per fill up. I never saw smoke except on the rare start up. Not a drop hits the ground when its parked. I can follow instructions and consider myself a "part installer" and not a mechanic. I have very little diagnosing skills. I was able to put the engines in with KEP parts and spent 20+ hours reworking the wiring harness so it would pair with the VW. It worked. So last week my van wouldn't work. It mimicked a fuel relay problem I had before so I got a new relay. I thought maybe the 30 year old fuel pump might have been going bad so I got a new Bosch fuel pump and pulled the old pre-filter out. I also put in a new PCV valve about 4 months ago. Still didn't fire up properly. I would turn it over and if it didn't start I would just let the fuel pump cycle a bit and it would fire up. which is why I was thinking it was fuel or voltage issue somewhere. Anyhow, it stopped working so I had it towed to a pretty good shop. The mechanic told me the engine was blown and that it had poor compression in 3 cylinders. All the spark plugs were pretty gross. While he was pressurizing it for a leak down, he blew the dipstick out. This guy is pretty solid and I'm guessing it wasn't because he didn't have it TDC. He said that it wasn't worth it to put any money into the small block with the results he got from the tests. I called Small Car which is two hours away to ask where they sourced their engines. After listening to my story, they suggested I send them my 2.2 heads (which they say never go bad) and they would resurface them, do a valve job and new seals/o-rings and then put them on a brand new 2.5 small block that was set up for this application. The total would be $3,000. They said this would work perfectly and had done this for their California customers that were in my shoes. I did some research on the Frankenmotor on some Vanaru/Subagon and Subaru websites and it seems legit. I looked into crate motors from Japan, but they were $1,100 for a 2.2 with 50K miles. I don't like the idea of just putting in another high mileage 2.2 either and being in the same position soon. and then... I had a new friend come by to drop off his cherry picker. He is a bit of a shade tree mechanic but thought the problem could be with the heads or maybe a cam. He said that it might be worth my time taking the heads down to a shop to have them inspected. It sounds like the shop is pretty reliable and they would be able to tell me if the heads were an issue before I go down the SmallCar 2.5 option. The only thing is that SmallCar told me they would do the same thing basically. I don't want to pay for the same labor twice. I am not made of money and this car is my daily driver. I put in a new tranny about 18 months ago and just put on a new set of tires so I have a couple grand in it as of recently. Reliability is my number one concern. So I come to you on my knees asking... "what would you do?" Do you think its heads? rings? pistons? I live an hour out of town so dropping things off at machine shop is a hassle, though doable. -
So i have all the stuff laying around the shop to do a 97 2.5 DOHC block, 96 2.2 SOHC heads Franken motor. Ive read that you either use the subaru 2.5 DOHC gasket and add some holes for the coolant jacket or get the Cometic gasket. The part that is unclear is what fuel are people using. Ive read a ton of threads and people are saying 85 is fine and others say that you HAVE to use 91. Can anyone with Frankenmotor experience please chime in here. Thanks -
I have a 1999 Legacy GT with the 2.5L EJ25D (dohc, phase 1) and I want to swap the heads. Now I know that I'll need new 2.2L heads with dual port so I don't need to change my exhaust, and I've read that you need a new timing belt. (Donor car will likely be 1995 Legacy 2.2L) Now here are the issues: - Do I need to use the 2.2 head cam sprockets or can I use the ones from the 2.5? - Besides the previous question, do I need anything else other than the 2.2 belt for the timing system? - The bolt pattern for the 2.5 manifold I have has bolts in a straight line, however the 2.2 heads I've seen (1995 and older) have diagonal bolts. - Can I use the 2.5l head bolts? I have a new set which I will use. 14mm 12 point. - Is the bolt pattern the same? My current one has 6 bolts, 3 on top behind the top cam, and 3 down low behind the bottom cam. - If the donor engine (2.2L) didn't have HG issues should I still get the heads planed by a machine shop? - Should I get new valves seats/guides/valves/springs or is that overdoing it? Pics are here (2.5l head, block and manifold): http://imgur.com/a/ExhsZ -
I'm thinking 25d block, 22e heads, cometic gasket, all with the ej18 intake so I don't have to touch wiring (that stuff scares me ). Doing this for cheap power in my imp. Good or bad idea? Or maybe just throw a 25d block inbetween my heads. I just miss my power from my 2.5gt. -
So I've already got the EJ25, from my legacy, sourcing a 22 block won't be hard. Head gasket is tricky to me, where to modify it for oil lines ect. Also engine management, should I get a megasquirt? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/149590-anyone-built-a-reverse-frankenmotor/ I read through this thread which is quite good except there's some things I diassagree with ej22t crank & rods -- same as the non turbo ej25 (NA) block halves. The whole point of this is to use the ej22 short block ej25 DOHC heads ('96 with hydro adjusters) -- should be able to just use my heads newer EJ25 flat top pistons -- Aren't my current pistons/ the 22's pistons sufficient? ej20g intake manifold with 440cc injectors -- One of the 2 manifold I have will be good, no? vf8 turbo (ej20g) ej22t exhaust (until I put the downpipe in) ej22t fuel pump 2002 WRX top mount IC ej22t bypass valve (I replaced with the TurboXS one) ej22t ECU & wiring harness. original ej25 harness/ECU is gone, and the ej22t ECU sits in it's place, and is all wired in, and I can check code like normal (ej22t way) -- I shouldn't have to use a 22 turbo block, can just use a normal block, almost the exact same. So the wiring harness mesh is moot then, right? Would absolutely love to do this build, but need to have all the parts before I do the biuld, and have as much of it pre assembled as I can as it's my dd. Thanks - H
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Hey all, I finished a Frankenmotor build about a month ago. I used the short block out of a '96 OB, and the heads from a '96 Legacy. I surfaced the heads on my own via the flat board/sandpaper method. I used .056" thick Cometic MLS headgasket with their hybrid pattern. This is my third HG replace dealing with a Subaru motor, and I have other background experience with Toyota motors. I'm just trying to convey that I'm not unfamiliar with these things, nor to say that I'm an expert. I have found coolant seeping from the passenger-side head upon start up. It'll seep out onto the exhaust and smoke. After running to temperature/driving, the seepage stops and all is dry underneath. I have not seen any white smoke from out of the tailpipe; usage from the over-flow tank is not unreasonable. I followed the directions for headbolt tightening via the FSM. Doing this before, I've yet to see this seepage. But I was also using OEM headgaskets from Subaru. The MLS HG was pretty beefy. The rings surrounding the combustion chambers were aggressive. I've talked with some big-power-turbo Subaru enthusiasts, and they've mentioned different specifics for the torque. They use 30-60-90ft-lbs (I believe those were the numbers they referenced...) increment increases (first tightening is 30ft-lbs, second go around 60ft-lbs...). Is it possible that the FSM procedure doesn't squeeze the MLS HG enough? Can I safely tighten the head bolts now? Say another 25-45 degrees? Or is there an torque end-value that is actually achieved via the FSM process? Or is this a moot point, and I should be preparing for a HG replacement? I watch my gauges and fluids religiously, so I know that I could probably get away with driving it more without overheating. Any advice will be appreciated. Greg
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Vehicle: 1996 Legacy L wagon EJ22 (soon to be Frankenmotor) 2nd owner, just passed 200k miles (mostly highway grandma-style driving. Never overheated.) Very regular oil/filter changes; Mobile full synthetic 0w-30 The motor has developed a lifter tick. It is sporadic yet consistently there. Mostly does it while at opperating temp. So since I'll have the motor out to service the valves, I figured I'd drop in a 1996 2.5l block that has 171k on it. My main topic of interest/question.. I ordered the ej25/22 hybrid cometic gasket yesterday (100mm x .040" I hope that's correct...Those are the specs I've read everywhere for this application). This is before I've serviced the heads. I plan on resurfacing the heads via the shop bench-glass-sand paper-wd40 method. Did I just waste +$100 buying the gaskets first? Will I need thicker gaskets because of the loss of material during the resurfacing? I thought I'd be fine because 1.) motor has never overheated, 2.) this is the first time the heads will have been removed, ever. Let me know so I can either relax or sell these and order a new pair... Greg
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Searched with no luck. Anybody got the cometic part # for the gasket to put EJ22e heads onto the EJ25 block?
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Hi everyone, thought I'd show you what my friend and I have been working on. We are currently making a prototype ej22 single port header that we plan to produce and sell. The prototype Header features CNC plasma cut 3/8" flanges, mandrel bends, our own Collector/Diffuser, 1.75" 16 Guage Primaries and Tig Welds all around. In the future we will be offering these in Mild steel with a few coating options, or 304 ss. The prototype is of EL design and currently has 39" and 35" primaries. When production begins we will have the Headers Equal Length +/- 2". For all of you who prefer a nice rumble, we'll be offering a UEL design as well. As many or you know the stock collector for the ej22 is absolute garbage and is one of the main choking points in the exhaust. Our collector solves this problem and Improves scavenging effect through the primaries. Another side effect of proper collector design is that regardless of the EL or UEL design, both Headers will have excellent performance gains. Here is a comparrison between the Collectors for all you visual learners. Sound clips coming soon. Shooting for a price range of around 300$ + Shipping for Mild Steel with gaskets, we'll have an excel order sheet shortly, there you'll be able to choose a variety of primary diameters, materials and coating options. For more information or requests for custom work, feel free to contact us at: Millercleanfabrication@gmail.com Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada Or simply reply to this thread
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Been my daily driver and rallyx car for the past year our so. Bought it about two years ago. Now that i have a new daily I'm going to finally do something i always wanted to do. An engine swap. Not a lot of Subarus here though. Getting parts will be a challenge. Hoping to build the hybrid "franken motor" and keep it mostly stock looking.
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Looking like I found a good deal on a block for my Frankenmotor build... Frankie gurus, is this a good year and mileage, etc.? link below: http://burlington.craigslist.org/pts/4269422564.html
