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Showing results for tags 'front'.
Found 15 results
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I need to replace the front axles on my 85 BRAT. Do I need to remove the wheel bearing housings from the car? -
I just bought a 1985 Brat!! I am pretty sure the parts are the same as my ‘84 GL Wagon. I need to replace the windshield. It is the same as a GL, 1984, right? I am in St. louis, and the closest windshield I can find is in Chicago. Group mind, do you have any suggestions? mkoch
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I was able to tap the axle spindle out of the bearing housing... that was pretty easy! ”How To Keep Your Subaru Alive” does not mention that as an option. A Youtube video shows tapping the housing back in to the spindle. Can I do this without harming the CV joint?
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The condition is: I have a 1984 GL 4WD Wagon, and the engine is out of it. The oil pump, and crank pulley are removed. The front main engine seal needs to be replaced. Can I replace the front main engine seal after I put the engine back into the car? I wonder if there will be room to do this.
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Background: Struts are all newish, brakes recently serviced, new inner/outer tie rods, new ball joints, new FCAR bushings, wheels rebalanced, recent alignment. Symptoms: Faint clunking noise at low speeds while accelerating. Shaking at 60 mph, felt like unbalanced wheel, except we just had them rebalanced. Back story: I've been chasing an issue with the passenger's front wheel on our 1999 Forester for a few months now. The car is closing in on 200k miles and I had just finished replacing the ball joints and tie rod ends on the car when I noticed the passenger's side front control arm rear bushing was pretty badly torn. I replaced that bushing, got an alignment, then my wife tells me that the car is shaking on the highway. OK, wheels must be out of balance, so we get them rebalanced. No change. I do the wheel shake test and I felt some play, so let's take a look at the wheel bearing. Wheel and brakes removed, I can feel some clunking as I turn the hub. The driver's side feels smooth when rotated, but there is obviously something wrong with the passenger's side. I get the passenger's side spindle assembly on the bench expecting to find some grumbling and play, but it feels pretty smooth in rotation, with no axial or radial play. So I grab the halfshaft and rotate it. The clunking is still present, but it doesn't feel like it's coming from the CV or DOJ. I supposed it could be either of those parts, but I get the feeling that the passenger's side differential carrier bearing is going south. Question: I've read a lot about Subaru transmissions over the years and that if not reassembled properly with the correct backlash and bearing preload, they will fail again in pretty short order. As I see it, we've got a few options on how to proceed: 1) Rebuild the original transmission - Has to go to a shop and could get expensive with labor and, "while we're in there" incidentals, rebuild could re-fail 2) Replace original transmission with a good used one - I can do this, no problem, but I worry about getting a bad used transmission 3) Sell the car and find the wife a new vehicle - Since our Forester is a the bottom of it's depreciation curve right now, does it really make sense to sink $600-3,000 into a vehicle that's only worth $4,000 tops? Looking for opinions, experiences, etc. If you've got a nice, used transmission, I'm all ears too! -
My wife's 2003 base model Outback 2.5L Auto, AWD, U.S. model 146K miles. The front right caliper is dragging. Dealer says it needs replaced to the tune of caliper, pads, rotor( gouged ) about $600. I'm willing to tackle it myself. My question after determining it doesn't just need cleaned & lubed if I replace is there a good aftermarket caliper & rotor? Also recommendation for pads. A new Subaru caliper is $300. I can get a salvage yard caliper with 60K miles and 6 months warranty for $59. Is that a better option than the typical Autozone / Advanced caliper? I just saw that Rock Auto has remanufactured Subaru calipers by Cardone & Raybestos. Are these ok? My wife doesn't put a ton of miles on this car. She drives 90 miles to work, stays there for the week and returns home. So about 800 miles/month. Do I need to replace the left side which is operating just fine for balance? I need to get my wife back on the road soon. Also any tips for the replace & bleeding are appreciated. Thank you so much, Dave in PA -
Hi all - this is my first post. There are a few things that I have questions about - regarding my wife's 2012 Impreza Wagon Ltd. This first posting is regarding the front brake pads/rotors and my replacement of both yesterday. I purchased aftermarket rotors and ceramic pads ($120.00) total to replace my wife's front pads and rotors. She has 50,000 miles and though the brakes have lasted well, there has been a shimmy upon braking from the front end that has bothered me - and has been evident for the past 20,000 miles or so. I have had them inspected and they have always gotten a green light. I have known that the pads needed to be replaced soon - so yesterday I went about replacing the whole lot - just to be sure my rotors weren't warped, I replaced the pads and rotors. To my surprise, the inner pad had a graduated wear pattern on it. I have attached photos here as well to better illustrate this strange design. I am by no means an expert in braking systems of cars - though I have replaced my share of pads and rotors (my other car is a Mini Cooper S 2007) - front and rear. My experience has always been that the pads are flat on the rotor surface - interior and exterior. When I removed the pads on the Subaru, I found that the outer pad was as expected - but the inner pad had a 'graduated' shape to it - with a center that was raised above the outer surfaces - and this of course made the wear on the inner surface of the rotor gauged as well in relief. So, if the rotors were in good condition still (IF), new pads would not be able to be installed regardless - because of the new surface shape of the inner part of the rotor. I hope I'm making sense here, but wondered what the purpose of this design is on the part of Subaru - if anyone has any insight into this. Thanks! Lorne Next research on this forum and possible new post (depending on if I can find more information about it) will be regarding a start issue - when the engine is warm - car does not restart. And THIS issue occurs on our 2012 Impreza and my sister's 96 Outback.
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Hey so today I made a cool front bumper for my Subaru RX. Its not done yet still going to build in a custom two piece skid plate into it. All I did to make this was cut the bumper support out until the only thing left was the support. Welding some steel tubing into it untill it started to take shape. I am pleased with how it came out i just need some WRC looking lights to complete the look I am going for. The rear bumper is 4x2 steel frame rail that I stacked onto each other and simply bolted them up to the stock location of the rear bumper support so I can switch back easily. Stock Bumper support cut in half already. Then removed some more of it Welded the first 1x1 steel bar into the beast Welded an interesting shape and stuck with it Slowly started adding more metal Hood closed and fender just hanging on Now moving onto the back I built a custom trunk and frame into the car here it is without the bumper. Looks intense already. Caged intense trunk also another view Custom rear bumper Drilling holes Don't mind the welds =) flux core wire no gas in the winter usually with snow coming in haha Also some trunk pics other side
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Long time ago (as you can see the Background Story ~► Here in a Short thread), I wanted to do a Li'l Front Lift of 2" to level the front of my "BumbleBeast" because with my Suspension Mods (Which can be seen ~► Here) it gained two inches of lift in the Rear... Back then I Couldn't buy the 2" Lifting kit because Paypal Didn't Had Honduras in their List (Four Years Ago) But Now, that story is about tho Change... I Really Need to Lift Two inches (2") the Front to Level my "BumbleBeast", but Without Loosing the Safety and proper Camber / Caster, also I Want to Keep the Axles' angle the more Straight Possible, So, I Believe that a Pair of 2" Blocks at 15º for the Front Struts, plus Dropping the Engine Crossmember 1" will do that, isn't it? I am Kindly Asking your Advice, Because I Really Need to do a 2" Front Lift but as Cheaper and Easier as it could be, without Sacrificing the Subie's Safety + Alignment. Please, Help me... Any Advice will be very Welcome! Kind Regards. ► Edited to add the Tags for the New USMB Search System.
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Howdy, we have the 2005, and it needs suspension work. I am pretty handy and well equipped, and use the lifts at the garage on a military base - however, this is new to me. The garage has a strut / spring compressor mounted to the wall I can use. I need some recommendations for the best way to go about that. Should I just buy replacement struts with the coil (front) and the similar full assembly set up for the rear ? Or should I buy only the struts (front) and shocks (rear) and then reuse the coils ? I reviewed some of the info about ghostwalking, which is not an issue we have experienced. In the solutions area it says... Solution #3: Replace worn rear dampers. The 2005-2009 chassis dampers (struts/shocks) are notorious for premature wear. The rear end is the worst with a floatly/bouncy feeling after only a few years of use. The fix is to replace the rear shocks with a more robust aftermarket brand like KYB Excel-G/GR-2. Using the 2003-2004 chassis rear KYB shocks is a popular option because they stiffen the rear end considerably and are 100% compatible with the 2005-2009 cars. See the main suspension FAQ thread for more info. Would that be the best way to go at this point ?? I am not sure what a "damper" is, unless they are referring to the entire shock / strut assembly. They mention only the shocks, so are they reusing the spring coil ? Any other recommended struts or shocks, or should I stay with OEM from Subi ? Thank you, C -
http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/WC/359-01049330.html?utm_content=YN&utm_term=1982-1987+Subaru+GL+Struts+KYB+W0133-1615015+Front+82-87+Subaru+Strut+Assembly+1985+1983&fp=pp&gbm=a&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&gclid=COzk5eWCxbwCFUiGfgod-xcA-w Will these work on my 82' 4WD Gl wagon? And has anybody done this? how much lower are they than the 4WD struts? and can i use the stock 4WD springs? thanks guys!
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so i have a 1985 subaru GL hatchback, and the clutch blew. due to the variety of setups subaru made for that era, i have no idea which clutch to buy.its a ea81 with a 5 speed front wheel drive transmission
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Hi, I have an 08 STI and I am not digging the fog light set up one the front bumper and was wondering if anyone has or knows if its possible to fit a newer front bumper on the car with the updated fog lights. -
I've got a 2001 Outback 2.5L with 186,000 miles. About a year ago I replaced the front passenger side brake caliper after it froze up. A couple weeks ago the same caliper froze up while I was on the freeway. I drove a few miles to an exit with the steering wheel vibrating hard and towed it home. After replacing the caliper again I get a heavy grinding that is consistent with the rotation of the wheel. It sound like grinding brakes but real loud. Here are the steps I have taken before getting stuck: -checked brake lines, all look good -checked brake fluid, bled out all air, it looks clean and fine -installed new caliper -new brake pads on front brakes (old pads on passenger side had worn at a slight angle not parallel to back of pad) -had the rotor turned at local auto parts store I'm definately no mechanic but try DIY as much as possible. I was thinking it could be a bearing or bad axle but not sure. Any help on troubleshooting and how to fix would really be appreciated. I cant really afford to pay a mechanic -
Hi Guys & Girls, It is me Again! I got Two Loyales, this question is About the EA82, now "Weberized" The country where I live has very BAD roads; so long time Ago, I had the Idea of Lift "Just a Little Bit" my Subie. I have already changed the Rear Shock Absorbers and the Rear Coil Springs using parts from other brand cars, (as you can Read & See Photos ~► Here) Also, I changed the Front coil Springs, but my Suspension Mods lead my Subie to Sit two inches (2") Taller in the Rear ... So my Subie looks "Weird" ... Despite that I don't use my Subie to off road very often, but since I drive it most of the Time in unpavemented roads and mud is Everywhere; a Little Lift in the front could help to Level both ends... my Front bumper is Too Low ... I have Search over the Internet, and Saw the "Scorpion Lift Kits" (http://www.scorpionsubaru.com) I don't need the whole kit, just something to put between the front shock absorbers (Struts) and the Chassis, to just lift the Front the same 2" (two Inches) I gained in the Rear. Maybe I need Just This Things?: (Lift Blocks) But they told me by e-Mail, that they Don't Sell kit Parts, Just the Whole Kit... ...So I searched more and more... and I did Reached This Site: http://www.sjrlift.com Where a I contacted by e-Mail a Kind Guy called Scott, and he told me that if I put this Front Lifting "Things" on my EA82 Subie: I will need to extend the steering shaft at a local shop. Really I don't Want to do major Job in my Subie, just a Li'l Lift, So I ask him if they got somethin' about just 2" and He told me that he could make a especial Pair of 2" front strut Liftin' "Things". I think it is Good Idea and I want to Purchase those "Things" ... so the Questions of this post is: ► Is it Safe to put 2" liftin' "Things" on my EA82 Subie's front Struts? ► Will the Subie Work Properly? ► Will the Subie be more Dangerous to Drive? ► How did you to fix this situation if you ever have been in something like that? Please, Tell me more about it, and if is Good Idea, or if there are better Ideas... Thank you in Advance. Kind Regards. ► Updated to add the Tags for the New USMB Search System and Update the Web Links.
