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Showing results for tags 'fuel pump'.
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Hey freaks - I'm looking to source the correct fuel pump for my 96 Legacy Outback. I've searched the forum and haven't found any concrete answers yet. Basically rock auto lists what seems like a few different options and I'm hoping to get pointed to the correct pump. rock auto lists a 1.5" diameter pump and a 2" pump. Both of these options come in a plug style pump or threaded terminal style pump. I'm hoping someone can point me to the correct diameter and correct electrical connection. I haven't pulled the pump yet. The car is sitting at a restaurant up the road where it died. No option to pull the pump and check it out for a few days. Any help would be appreciated! If someone could post a link to a correct pump that would be sick. Car currently has a 2.2, but I believe it came with a 2.5. Thanks, TJ -
Vehicle: 1986 Subaru GL Wagon, Dual Range 5 Speed, Carbureted, Weber 32/36 Converted Issue: No longer getting Fuel Pump Signal to the Pump. It would be intermittent, but now seems to be consistent with getting no Signal. I've heard from @Gloyale that the 6 pin Fuel Pump Controller (Relay) only sends power to the pump when there is a Tachometer Pulse on the yellow wire... Is that Signal originated from the Distributor? Also I've heard from @GeneralDisorderin regards to the Controller, that: "The wire going to the pump is usually a blue with red stripe. The control unit will also have a yellow tach signal, black ground wire, and an ignition hot supply (white I think)." Background: The problem began intermittently... if I had an issue with the pump, I could either add Fuel directly to the carburetor to prime the system. Or, I could apply power directly to the Fuel Pump to also Prime the system. Occasionally I would have to do both in order to get the vehicle to run. Once the pump was working, it would not cut-out mid-trip. Not until the vehicle was turned off and then tried to be re-started later; would an issue happen, where I would have to do one off the pre-mentioned priming methods. Now the pre-mentioned priming methods no longer work... What kind of tests can I do to see what needs replacing? I'd like to have the wiring stay this way it was from the factory... however if not I could wire the fuel pump to a switch, racecar style... I'm not sure though; does the tach Signal increase/decrease pump speed based on engine speed? Thanks for reading, hope to keep my Wagon on the Road! -
Hey guys, I have an ‘87 GL-10 wagon, (Fuel-injected) bought it last month from an owner who garage-kept it. Great little car. My fuel pump started leaking from the little bell on the back of the pump, which I would assume is a pressure relief valve. I’ve been looking for a replacement pump, and finding an original pump is impossible. Napa, Rockauto, autozone, partsgeek; nobody has one. Now I’m thinking of just getting an aftermarket one... anybody out there have a suggestion of a good pump that will work?
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I have an 82 brat I am swapping to Fuel injection using @GeneralDisorder guide. I have everything in place and wired up. My issues are as follows. I am only getting 6 volts at the coil. And I'm not getting any spark. My fuel pump works. But only shoots fuel when it is hard wired. It won't turn on in test mode. Nor when I crank it I don't think. The ecu blinks at me when my key is in on which is a good thing I think And the engine turns over. I have looked and read, then looked and read, then looked and read again through the guide and my harness and I really believe I have everything hooked up correctly. Minus the neutral switch and cel wire. Any any any help would be Uber appreciated!!! -
After hearing for years my subaru (2009 OBW euro) was not part of the airbag recall now they finally decided that it is a part of the recall. But reading the letter it shows that there are 2 more recalls due on my car. 1. Passenger airbag module 2. Fuel pump wire assembly (replace fuel pump wires as they can cause a short). 3. Brake line excessive rust, check and replace brake lines when needed. #1 is not a suprize but #2 is, anyone heard of that one in US? -
3 days ago, my 1995 Subaru Legacy L station wagon conked out while leaving my house. After which, it refused to start up. Just cranks and cranks. Subsequent tests indicate that it is getting spark, but it's not getting fuel. There doesn't seem to be any clicking sound from the relay under the dash when turning the key. Also, no sound from the pump (I removed the outer cover, so I could hear it better). I suspect the relay has gone bad after 220k miles. But it could also be the pump (among other things, as always). I want to test the pump to see if it will run without going through the relay. I've read lots of things about hot-wiring pumps with a jumper wire between the battery and one of the wires going into the fuel pump. But I'm just not finding anything that says/shows exactly WHICH wire that might be and WHERE exactly it's located. Like it's common knowledge or something. But it's not to me. I'm not a real mechanic. I just pretend to be one, when necessary. Surely, somebody can tell me how to do this as easily as possible. Preferably without getting into electrical jargon that boggles my mind. Any help greatly appreciated, as always. -
My fiance has a '79 Brat that was left to her, and it's having a fueling issue. That is, it was running fine then sat for several years. I put a new battery in it and nothing. If I hot wire the fuel pump it comes on. All I have been able to find is something stating that the alternator sends signal to the voltage regulator which then tells the pump to kick on. I cannot find an actual wiring diagram. It had a new alternator and regulator just before storage; it has another new regulator and the alternator was tested as being good. Tested twice, actually. Nobody can tell me if there is a relay or something, and as I said, I cannot find a wiring diagram anywhere. Does anybody out there have one? Or have any ideas? It would be most appreciated as she is most vocal about this being running ASAP. I should also note that I have power at the fuse. Thank you! -
Hey all, I just bought an '88 DL Wagon 4WD with a manual transmission. I got a few miles and then the engine just quit. It wants to start, but won't. At first, pumping the gas pedal helped to keep it running for a second or two, but now it's not doing a thing for me. The internet has been comically unhelpful, for example: I haven't found reliable information regarding the location of the fuel pump. Is it in the tank, or under the passenger side rear seat? What's the best way to approach it, through the trunk or from underneath? Any and all help, insights, pictures and advice are much appreciated.
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Hello subaru-gurus, I recently acquired an 86 GL wagon with 230,000 miles. For a few days after I brought it home, on cold starts in the morning it would fire up but idle at a very low RPM. It would stall, and have to be restarted until it seemed to warm-up and then it was fine. Then one day, after starting it and getting the same start-up symptoms I was driving it down the road and about four miles from my house, it stopped running while driving at 55mph down the highway. I coasted it to the side of the road and attempted to restart it. It presented symptoms similar to those when it was cold started, as described above --- fired but would not stay running or even idle. After repeated attempts, the engine progressively showed no sign of starting. When I dump gas into the open throat of the carb the engine will start for a few seconds and then stall out. On seeing this I changed the fuel filter closest to the gas tank hoping that might be the problem. I attempted to start the engine equipped with the new filter but it would not start. Since the new fuel filter is clear, I noticed that after my prolonged attempt at starting, that almost no fuel had filled the new filter. If the fuel pump is pumping shouldn't all of the excess air in the filter be pumped toward the carb and thus get the air out of the fuel filter? Could my problem be anything else than a bad fuel pump? Cheers, Dave -
Hey everyone. 1996 Legacy Wagon L 260k 2000 EJ 251 with EJ25D heads 2000 4.11 5mt I'm having some problems that I'm not sure where to turn to. I have an idling issue. When at operating temperatures, my idle will be low (around 500) but not rough. When the lights are on, and I depress the brake, the lights will dim and the idle will drop and stumble. Never shut off. This problem has been present with two separate motors. First with an EJ25/EJ22 frankenmotor, and now my current one. I have swapped out my alternator (both read 14v), removed the crappily-installed uhaul trailer package, and created new grounds/cleaned up grounds in the engine bay. No change. I had the battery checked at the auto store, and it is said to be good. I've also cleaned the terminals/cables. I have suspicions that I'd like to see if they are valid/relevant. IIRC, this problem surfaced a couple years ago after I had replaced the then dead fuel pump. I did not replace it with an OEM pump. This one came from the local auto store. Around this time as well, the aftermarket radio quick working. The cd player works, and I can also use the auxiliary port, but no radio. I didn't listen to the radio at the time, so I never bothered. All fuses are good. Could either of these be related? Or, since this only happens when the engine is warm, could it be the coolant temp sensor? I believe I transferred the Crank/Cam/ Temp sensors from the last motor... Sometimes after a long drive on a warmer day, at idle it will sometimes idle up and down for a short period of time then normalize. Computer related? Thank you for your time. Any advice will be appreciated. Greg -
Attempting to replace the Fuel Filter on a '78 Brat and want to run the fuel out of the line....I took the fuse out from the main breaker (driver's side) labeled "IG ST FUEL" (5th from the top) thinking that would do the trick and disable the Fuel Pump but the car wouldn't run out of gas. This is a brand new car to me and there is a bit of secondary wiring, but is there another trick to turning off the pump that I am missing? Thanks! -
First off, thanks to previous posters. You helped me straighten out my son's 2000 outback. It would start and would not run, and the problem was the swollen O-ring on the fuel pump. I had to buy 5 of them, so to pass it forward, if anyone needs one free, just let me know on this forum. Next (2 years later) came the overheating and brown stuff in the coolant. The oil also looked like it had water in it. This happened periodically although the car ran pretty good when it wasn't overheating. None of the usual stuff worked, like changing fluid, replacing the thernostat. A CO2 test on the coolant was positive, plus the coolant looked like it had burnt exhaust stuff in it, so I decided to replace the head gaskets. BTW the compression was good, and seemed to hold OK. But I wish I had done a pressure test on the cooling system to see if it held pressure. More on that latter. This all seemed typical of a head gasket failure. Getting the heads out was tough (doing in the driveway and it got cold here), but its a SOHC so they came out. The engine mount bolt on passenger side got mangled, so I had to get them out without raising the engine on that side. Much to my surprise, the heads and gaskets didn't look too bad. Even more surprising, they were Six Star MLS gaskets, so someone had been there before. Got the heads surfaced and pressure checked for cracks and they are OK. Honestly, I'm not sure where the exhaust gas in the coolant came from.... Here's my plan: Reassemble the whole thing being very careful to torque it down right. Will use new head bolts because I now know these have been torqued down twice already, and don't want another failure. Will inspect the oil pump and likely replace the water pump. My question: Any other way for exhaust gasses to get into the coolant? I can't think of any Thanks for any ideas. -
Hello all, I have a 2002 WRX and I don't know how i could find out if my ecu is the problem. To start from the beginning, I was trying to find the output of my ECU that could turn it from automatic to manual in the hope of getting rid of p1596 error (automatic tranny diagnosis input signal high input). I made the mistake of of removing the ECU from the bolts that i now know that ground the ECU. I tried cutting one wire (which i found out that was for the knock sensor.. wrong electrical diagram) After i cut that wire, maybe 30 seconds later the car wouldn't start anymore. After re soldering the wire, i found that the fuel pump wasn't priming. After troubleshooting everything possible with the fuel pump, i replaced it thinking that was my issue. It didn't. Still wouldn't prime. I have tested all the wiring from the fuse all the way to fuel controller. All is good. I then thought to myself i will just bypass the whole line and wired 12 volt directly to the fuel pump to run it continuously to see if i could get the car started. With the pump running and car turning over, i get no start now. I assume that if the fuel pump is working now at full blast, will it drown the engine and prevent it from stopping? How do i know if i blew the ECU? thanks to anyone that can help me. -
Hello everyone My 86 1,8 wagon stopped a couple of days ago. It was sudden like fuel was cut off. Fuel line from pump to carburettor is in order. The little square external pump (are there any more?) is working, and electricity is reaching the pump. -But I was wondering, is the pump ment to run while the engine is running, or is it ment to run only when key is turned to start? Thanks for any answers! -
OK, First thing that happened is my car would die, almost like a belt broke. Didn't matter how fast I was going, it would just die. I immediately put a new fuel filter on....ran OK for a day. I felt what I thought was "clogs" being dissolved, from the fuel treatment I put in when I replaced the fuel filter. However, the next day it started dieing again. Than it died and would not start again. I replaced the fuel filter again, and the fuel pump. I can hear the pump start to work, or at least think I can. Plan on seeing if starter fluid will start her tomorrow...and hoping like hell I can find the relay....Please any advise is soooo very appreciated!!!! I'm on a super tight budget and my kids have sports, I am definitely up sht creek with out a paddle...plus my car is at a gas station parking lot...... -
Fuel pump replacement: Hello all! Question after story time. Context: 1991 silver Subaru Loyale stock 1.8L EA82 5-speed manual trans w/ stick 4WD button wagon w/203,000 miles. I took my kids up into the hills for a great day for July 4th. We went Up and down in the Rocky mountains and everything worked great. We probably made up to about 9500 feet and back down with no trouble. she did much better with the AC turned off B.T.W. (Colorado Springs is around the 6000+ ft above sea-level mark.) However, On the return, only 3 miles from home, I stopped to price out some news brake pads and discs (I'm still working out the kinks) and the old bird would not start again. Being stranded at the parts store isn't the worst thing to happen, so going through all the motions of the big three: Spark, Compression, and Fuel I found that a little squirt of starter fluid fired the Loyale right up. ok fuel. We got towed home an hour later and still no change. Around 10 PM MT at night I tried again, and she fired right up without hesitation. She ran smooth and clean, idle, 2,000 RPM, idle - it's like she looked at me incredulous that I would think any differently. The classic "What?" look. It was cooled off. Yeah - I'm swapping that pump, maybe even getting a spare eventually. Local part sourcing: O'Reiley's want $200 USD and included a "lifetime" warranty and has it in stock. Advance Auto wants $209 with a 30 day warranty on their Carquest brand with a day delivery AutoZone wants Subaru OEM and charges a whopping $375 and will have it in 5 days (pre-pay only). Online parts: RockAuto.com airTex fro $140 Delphi for $142 Spectra Premium for $143 Carter for $151 Partsgeek.com http://www.partsgeek.com/fbt8fb1-subaru-loyale-electric-fuel-pump.html 1990 Carter $82.33 1991 Aitex $149 1991 Delphi $153 1991 GENUINE W0133-1605415 $262.48 1991 Spectra PREMIUM 409-05488687 $301.33 So... after all that mess. I want to install this: http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1987/ford/f150/fuel_delivery/fuel_pump.html 1987 Ford F150 Fule Pump for $44 USD because it's a fuel pump... not a computer, and this is a Subaru, not a BMW or Mercedes. For trivia BMW recommends one to replace TWO pumps: the high pressure and the high volume pump at the same time because... BMW. I'll be breaking into the service manual to check the voltage, line pressure, wiring etc tonight. I'm asking for opinions. ready go... -
My 86 Brat broke down a few weeks ago & had it towed home. It turns over fine, but will not start. A few details: It had run out of gas completely a few weeks earlier. Could the debris/sediment in the tank have gotten "concentrated" because of the low fuel level and the fuel lines became clogged? Also, the night it broke down it was about 15 degrees out, so my initial thought was a frozen fuel line. Since the weather has warmed up (72 today) I've tried restarting a few times but again, turns over but does not start. Also wanted to know if there is a simple, for sure way to know if the fuel pump is bad. Obviously I'm a bit of a novice mechanic, so any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance~ Bratmobile -
I have a 99 Subaru Forester and I've noticed a squealing noise from the tank. I am sure it's the fuel pump, my question is about replacement should I get a Subaru pump or are aftermarket pumps ok. How difficult is taking the tank down? And is there anything I should know before taking on the repair myself? -
Hey, so I've tried searching all around to fix my current issue with my fuel pump not running. The engine cranks over but its not getting any fuel due to the fuel pump not starting. I've pulled the fuel pump out and tested that it's working. Checked the relay and I am pretty sure that its working, it is clicking but still not getting any power to the black/red wire. I was getting power to it for a bit but not exactly sure as I only have a test light that got bright and slowly dimmed out. Could it possibly be just a bad relay that is causing it to not get power or is it shorting out somewhere. I've been wanting to pull out the blower relay to test it with that one but getting to that is a pain and how the weather has been the past couple of days I haven't gotten to it. Also have checked the fuses and those are fine. At this point I'm thinking about just wiring the fuel pump to the battery. Any help with what could be causing this or ideas would be very much appreciated. -
I have a 91 Legacy wagon which constantly has issues with starting. Normally if it has been sitting for a few hours without being driven then it will start up just fine, but if I drive it somewhere and then turn it off and try starting it again shortly afterwards, it will not stay started. The only way I have found to make it stay started when I am having trouble is to press on the accelerator as I am starting it, and then I have to leave my foot on the accelerator for a few minutes to keep the car from turning off again. I recently got a new battery, had the alternator checked (it was said to be fine), new fuel pump, ecm repaired, fuel intake system cleaned and new fuel filter, new air control valve, and plenty of other repairs along with it. Everything is perfectly fine with the car as far as I can tell, so unless there is something else that someone can think of which may be causing the issues I am having, then I have no idea what could be wrong other than it is simply an old car and that alone could be causing problems. I have already put over $1,500 worth of work into this vehicle since the problems started, and I am not ready to try anything else unless it is cheap or easy. Can anyone can suggest anything that I can possibly try to fix the problem which may be cheap or easy to do? Aside from that I will probably unfortunately just have to cut my losses and get rid of the car. The air intake hose was replaced in October, so I doubt if that is the issue even though it sounds like a likely culprit. -
I have a 91 Subaru Legacy and it will not stay started when I start it unless it has been sitting for awhile, for example overnight. But if for instance I drive to the store and then shut off the engine and go inside and then come back out and try to start it again, then it will not stay started when I try to leave unless I give it gas at startup and I also have to keep my foot on the gas for several minutes to keep it from shutting off. I just had the following work done on it among other things: engine control module replaced, o2 sensor replaced, fuel pump replaced, fuel filter replaced and entire fuel system cleaned, air intake system cleaned/repaired. This along with everything else that was done came to over $1,500, and the car was in the shop for well over a month. Needless to say I do not want to take it back to the shop or invest any more money in it at this point. However I am curious to know what else could be causing it to not stay started aside from the things that I have already had looked at/replaced. I realize that it is an older car, but up until a few months ago I wasn't having any issues at all with it. I initially took it to the shop only because sometimes it wouldn't start at all unless I started it with my foot on the gas, but that only happened sometimes (though it did begin to occur more and more frequently and had gotten pretty bad by the time I took it to the shop). Is there something else that I could possibly do myself to fix the issue that I am having without spending an insane amount of money? Also, is it hurting the car to keep driving it even though it is doing what it is doing? I only still drive it like that because I have no other transportation at the moment. I also know it isn't the battery because I just had the battery replaced earlier this year, and all of the lights and other functions (radio, e.t.c.) work just fine. Side note: Not sure if this is an issue either, but if I turn the engine off and just sit with the key turned in the ignition (in the position just before starting the engine), then I hear a humming sound coming from the car which usually only seems to stop if I completely remove the key from the ignition.
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I have a 91 Legacy wagon which has been having startup issues on occasion. I usually manage to get it started by attempting to start it with my foot on the gas pedal, but when it starts it usually sputters for awhile and often turns off again. When I just turn the key in the ignition prior to starting it, I always hear a humming sound, and I wonder if that sound is related to or indicates the fuel pump may be going bad? Also whenever I drive the car it often has trouble accelerating especially after I've stopped at a stoplight. I just had the oil changed and had the fuel filter replaced and fuel system cleaned at the shop 3 days ago, and they also did diagnostics. But they didn't say anything about a faulty fuel pump, or maybe they didn't even consider it. Either way this all cost me over $300 already, so I just wonder if anyone has any ideas or suggestions before I spend any more money. Thank you all.
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Howdy, My Subaru won't start all of a sudden. I am new to this car, so bear with me. I will explain what I have observed. Upon turning the key to a point the lights turn on the fuel pump in the rear makes a "Rrrrrrr... Rrrrrrr" Sound with about a one-and-a-half second pause between sounds. This happened before but the car would start and then there would be a constant "rrrrr" sound. There was a situation not so long ago where I cranked for a while longer than I'd like to, and it did start. The fuel pump and fuel filter look brand new. But my first assumption to this point is that I must have been too low on gas and they got gummed up. However, I must consider than the sound is normal. Again, I'm a newb. Did a firing test. Definitely firing. Suggestions, ideas, knowledge? Update 1: After letting the starter attempt to do it's job for about five or six seconds the car did start and does start every time after. However, I do not know if that means the problem is somehow solved. The idle itself on the first rough-start was fine, but became more adequate all of a sudden with a higher RPM. I will be doing a cold start soon to see if I experience the same difficulty. Update 2: I let the fuel pump oscillate two to three times before attempting a start. After actually running or being on a trip it starts right away. The short (if there truly was one) is also gone. I have not experienced difficulty to start anymore. I assume it was dirty fuel causing inadequate pressure. But really, I don't know.
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Hi all, I'm new to the forum. I have a 2000 Outback wagon that I was keeping a year for my son (out of the Country) that I would start every couple of weeks. It ran well, until I parked in front of the house for a couple of weeks, then it wouldn't start. The gas cap wasn't messed with, so I don't think anyone put anything in the tank. It cranked OK, and the engine would catch for a few beats (like a second or two), then just stop. If I tried to start it again right away, it would crank but nothing fired unless I waited a minute. This annoyed me so much I put it up for the winter, and this spring nothing had changed. The battery was toast, so I replaced it and it cranks fine, engine catches a few beats, then stops. Here's what I checked so far- the pump comes on when the ignition is turned on. When cranked, It pumps fuel out of the fuel line post filter, so I don't think its the pump or filter. I pulled a plug, and it seems dry, even after being cranked for a while. I cranked it with the plug out, and there is no mist coming from the spark plug hole. The plug is clean, and it sparks fine when cranked. If I spray starter fluid into the throttle opening, it starts great, and will run as long as I give a shot every few seconds. So this sounds like a fuel problem. I'm thinking it might be the fuel pressure valve, but one of the two screws is in a really bad spot, and it looks like I'll have to take the whole rail off just to get the pressure regulator valve off. I could be the fuel pump, but as I said, its pumping gas when cranked. Could something be shutting the fuel pump off when the engine starts to fire up??? Can the pump work enough to move some gas into a cup, but not build up enough pressure to feed the injectors? (I'm from the days when fuel pumps worked on a lever riding on a cam on the crankshaft- that should date me) I'd replace the fuel pump, but that's a hundred bucks or more, and a lot more if replace the whole assembly- and I'm not even sure that's it. Perhaps after the first few cylinders fire the injectors stop opening up? Do they have fuses? Could that mean an ECM problem? I have an Actron scanner- no trouble codes. I don't know what the rest of the freeze frames mean. As I said, its been a while. I tried to siphon the old gas out of tank, but it sounds like cars have valves now to prevent that, I guess I missed that development. Any ideas? Thanks
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Hi Everyone, Just got a 1982 GL Wagon for $175, this was a nostalgia buy, as my parents drove me around as a kid in this car in the 80's/90's. The guy I bought it from said it needed a new fuel pump, I took him at his word and put a new one in, the fuel pump is not getting current. I traced the wire from the pump all the way to this funky relay (that's a total guess) that I can't find ANYTHING about online. Help!? Just need to get the engine fuel and I think it's ready to go. The previous owner did seem to tear the stereo out and there are quite a few loose wires about. Is there any in-line fuses I'm missing or is this not a relay at all?
