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Showing results for tags 'gen'.
Found 11 results
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I stripped a hun on my 1985 BRAT, for the second time! The 36mm castellated nut was at the right torque, with cotter pin. What am I doing wrong?
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Vehicle: 1986 Subaru GL Wagon, Dual Range 5 Speed, Carbureted, Weber 32/36 Converted Issue: No longer getting Fuel Pump Signal to the Pump. It would be intermittent, but now seems to be consistent with getting no Signal. I've heard from @Gloyale that the 6 pin Fuel Pump Controller (Relay) only sends power to the pump when there is a Tachometer Pulse on the yellow wire... Is that Signal originated from the Distributor? Also I've heard from @GeneralDisorderin regards to the Controller, that: "The wire going to the pump is usually a blue with red stripe. The control unit will also have a yellow tach signal, black ground wire, and an ignition hot supply (white I think)." Background: The problem began intermittently... if I had an issue with the pump, I could either add Fuel directly to the carburetor to prime the system. Or, I could apply power directly to the Fuel Pump to also Prime the system. Occasionally I would have to do both in order to get the vehicle to run. Once the pump was working, it would not cut-out mid-trip. Not until the vehicle was turned off and then tried to be re-started later; would an issue happen, where I would have to do one off the pre-mentioned priming methods. Now the pre-mentioned priming methods no longer work... What kind of tests can I do to see what needs replacing? I'd like to have the wiring stay this way it was from the factory... however if not I could wire the fuel pump to a switch, racecar style... I'm not sure though; does the tach Signal increase/decrease pump speed based on engine speed? Thanks for reading, hope to keep my Wagon on the Road! -
The video tells the story!!! The left turn signal switch will activate flashing in bulbs other than the turn signal bulb! https://youtube.com/shorts/AtWGv5Lt3ns?feature=share -
,85 BRAT, Hitachi, 49 state, new fuel filters, old loud fuel pump, new front and rear fuel filters. The car will hesitate and lurch under certain conditions. If I let the car just idle still for a while, and then accelerate, there is not problem accelerating, until about 20 seconds into it, then the balking begins. The normal acceleration indicates to me that both carb barrels are working. I just drove this car up a 1/10 mile 7% incline several times. I let this car idle, still, at the bottom of the hill every time before I did the test. 2nd gear, 2,000 rpm, the car makes it up the hill just fine. 2nd gear, 2,500rpm, the car starts balking halfway up the hill. I am guessing the problem is the fuel pump, or the valve which fills the float bowl. Am I missing something?
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At highway speeds, there is a vibration, feels like it's from the front, steering wheel cycles left-right about 5 times a second. I just had new tires put on. What besides tire imbalance can cause symptoms similar to tire imbalance? mkoch
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My plan is to remove the windshield on my 1985 Brat, repair the rust around the edges, and then have the a new windshield replaced professionally. I have a new gasket! How do I remove the old one?
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The engines on my 84 gl 4wd wagon, and my ‘85 Brat look pretty much the same. Are the exhaust systems the same?
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The Y piece, catastrophic converter is available from RockAuto, and the muffler, surprisingly, available on eBay. The piece between them, I guess called the “Resonator “ costs $180 from Autozone! Is this my only option?;
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Today’s problem, ignition coil. What is a good replacement? It throws a yellowish spark 1/4 inch. It is definitely not any shade of blue. Leaky engine oil. The oil pump seal is the culprit. The oil pump is fine, only one season on it. How do I re- do the seal? Water pump. This one is 11 years old, and 24,000 miles. Replace? Catastrophic Converter y pipe piece needs to be replaced. Where can I buy a decent one? Oh, and an donor-body. This one is rusty.
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1984 GL 4WD 49 State, with Weber carb. Bah! Trying to find the cause of a problem which comes and goes. 'been pleased with the Weber carb, starts right up usually. Yesterday, I had a crank but no-start condition. Choke in right position, correct fuel pressure to carb. 50 degree day. Removed dist cap, wd-40'd and thoroughly dried it. I attempted to start several times, and I did not get even a "pop". Also, with starting fluid, choke open, then choke closed, no start, no detonation. I let the car sit for a couple of hours, then came back to it to do diagnostics. I removed #1 spark plug wire, to check spark on disembodied spark plug. The car started right up with gusto on 3 cylinders. What is the most likely cause of intermittent spark problem? Anecdotal information wanted! It's all I have to go on.
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Ok so I cant find anything in my two soobie owners manuals about it so I thought I would ask the awesome soobie geeks on the fourms about it. My question is, do the older gen subarus have a breather tube or a vent for the transmission? or is the dipstick hole the vent? And if they do have a vent where is it?