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Showing results for tags 'generation'.
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I stripped a hun on my 1985 BRAT, for the second time! The 36mm castellated nut was at the right torque, with cotter pin. What am I doing wrong?
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Vehicle: 1986 Subaru GL Wagon, Dual Range 5 Speed, Carbureted, Weber 32/36 Converted Issue: No longer getting Fuel Pump Signal to the Pump. It would be intermittent, but now seems to be consistent with getting no Signal. I've heard from @Gloyale that the 6 pin Fuel Pump Controller (Relay) only sends power to the pump when there is a Tachometer Pulse on the yellow wire... Is that Signal originated from the Distributor? Also I've heard from @GeneralDisorderin regards to the Controller, that: "The wire going to the pump is usually a blue with red stripe. The control unit will also have a yellow tach signal, black ground wire, and an ignition hot supply (white I think)." Background: The problem began intermittently... if I had an issue with the pump, I could either add Fuel directly to the carburetor to prime the system. Or, I could apply power directly to the Fuel Pump to also Prime the system. Occasionally I would have to do both in order to get the vehicle to run. Once the pump was working, it would not cut-out mid-trip. Not until the vehicle was turned off and then tried to be re-started later; would an issue happen, where I would have to do one off the pre-mentioned priming methods. Now the pre-mentioned priming methods no longer work... What kind of tests can I do to see what needs replacing? I'd like to have the wiring stay this way it was from the factory... however if not I could wire the fuel pump to a switch, racecar style... I'm not sure though; does the tach Signal increase/decrease pump speed based on engine speed? Thanks for reading, hope to keep my Wagon on the Road!
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,85 BRAT, Hitachi, 49 state, new fuel filters, old loud fuel pump, new front and rear fuel filters. The car will hesitate and lurch under certain conditions. If I let the car just idle still for a while, and then accelerate, there is not problem accelerating, until about 20 seconds into it, then the balking begins. The normal acceleration indicates to me that both carb barrels are working. I just drove this car up a 1/10 mile 7% incline several times. I let this car idle, still, at the bottom of the hill every time before I did the test. 2nd gear, 2,000 rpm, the car makes it up the hill just fine. 2nd gear, 2,500rpm, the car starts balking halfway up the hill. I am guessing the problem is the fuel pump, or the valve which fills the float bowl. Am I missing something?
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At highway speeds, there is a vibration, feels like it's from the front, steering wheel cycles left-right about 5 times a second. I just had new tires put on. What besides tire imbalance can cause symptoms similar to tire imbalance? mkoch
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A video where I ask the question: Is this ok? Slop at rear axle, drum removed The bearing can slide in and out with very little pressure.
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My 85 Brat started and ran a month ago, then it sat for a month. I tried to start it, the engine would maybe 1/2 turn over with each try. Things I did Replace battery with a proven strong one. Clean battery terminals, and cable clamps, clean engine ground connection, clean positive cable connection at starter. I can swap parts with my healthy 1984 GL! What should my next step be?
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The Y piece, catastrophic converter is available from RockAuto, and the muffler, surprisingly, available on eBay. The piece between them, I guess called the “Resonator “ costs $180 from Autozone! Is this my only option?;
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I just bought a 1985 Brat!! I am pretty sure the parts are the same as my ‘84 GL Wagon. I need to replace the windshield. It is the same as a GL, 1984, right? I am in St. louis, and the closest windshield I can find is in Chicago. Group mind, do you have any suggestions? mkoch
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1984 Subaru, I want to be able to tow this one. Should I connect the tow bar to the tie down points, (safe, secure) or, to the bumper (convenient, iffy) ?
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Today’s problem, ignition coil. What is a good replacement? It throws a yellowish spark 1/4 inch. It is definitely not any shade of blue. Leaky engine oil. The oil pump seal is the culprit. The oil pump is fine, only one season on it. How do I re- do the seal? Water pump. This one is 11 years old, and 24,000 miles. Replace? Catastrophic Converter y pipe piece needs to be replaced. Where can I buy a decent one? Oh, and an donor-body. This one is rusty.
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I plan to run some wiring for a dash cam. I would like to run it under the headliner of my 1984 GL wagon. Any advice or instructions on how to remove the headliner? It seems to be styrofoam, with a thin vinyl color layer. Is it glued in place? mkoch
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This is a project I started yesterday when I was given a Mini Brat shell that someone had stored in the rafters of their barn for 25 years.
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- 1st
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So Sad to Ask, but Someday, Somehow it should gonna Happen: When Our Older Generation of Subies, Will Fall into the Historic Generation? By the Evidence, I see that a New Generation is Classified -Well, Some Sort of- by the Engine's Technology & Family, Also by Body Design. That's Why the Loyale (EA) is Older Generation, even if they was still Available New untill 1994, and Legacies (EJ) are New Generation, even if they Started to Sell them as Early as 1989. So, Seeing http://www.boxerdiesel.com/ Website, about the New Subaru's Engine Technology, and Seeing the New Body Stile with Doors that have Frames ... ... I Believe that the Day when our EA Engined Subies from the Eighties and Nineties, will become part of the Historic Gen Too, is Near ... With all these UnSubaru Changes, and the Development of the New Toyota AE86 (Trueno) by Subaru, and Posibly the new Camry... What do you Think About that?
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