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Showing results for tags 'h6'.
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I just replaced head gaskets on daughter's '06 Tribeca with 130k. Fired up right away and no problems or leaks for 40 miles or so. Now it is missing and threw the code for "cylinder 1 misfire". I did replace the plugs when I had the engine out. So I did the following in this order: 1. Switched #1 and #3 coils - no change. cylinder 1 still misfiring. I double checked the engine code by pulling the injector connector off #1 while it was running - no change. 2. Checked compression - it's around 130 psi. The spark plug was dry, expected it to be fouled if there was fuel and no spark. 3. Checked resistance on injectors. They were all around 14 ohms. 4. Did the hold-screwdriver-to-ear-and-to injector trick while vehicle is running. I can hear the injector clicks on cylinders 3 and 5, but nothing on #1. What next? Noid light and see if I'm getting impulses from the injector connector while running? I don't have a noid light yet, but thought I could put 12 volts to the injector while it's running and see if the miss goes away. Would that rule out a bad injector? Or is that a bad idea? I tried to search this before posting, but didn't see a comprehensive post on testing injectors. Thanks in advance for the advice. I'm a first time caller, but have gotten a lot from this site just searching the old posts. You guys are great! -
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So. I bought a 2003 Outback LL Bean with 196k. The car is in reasonable shape and runs pretty well except a slight hesitation and sometimes it idles a little rough/vibrates at idle. The main issue I'm having is that it likes to kick out about 1-2 cups of coolant every time I top off the radiator, it doesn't seem to keep pushing out coolant after that but it will have a very slow bubbling from the overflow hose into the tank at idle. I tested with a combustion gas test kit and after 2-3 min of testing the fluid hadn't changed color in any noticeable way. I do not see any active coolant leaks, maybe there is some seeping slowly but not that I can find. The only time I see coolant actually leaking from the car is if I keep topping off the radiator without removing some from the overflow. Also no strange smoke on cold starts, no contamination in the oil or transmission fluid. Currently I can just top off the radiator every morning and drive it all day (about 100 miles a day of stop and go traffic) and it never overheats; although the primary radiator fan does run a bit more than I'm used to with my other car (95 ej22) but that's it. I have replaced the radiator cap with a "safety" style and an OEM cap is on order; but I haven't changed anything else. I'm thinking a coolant flush, new OEM radiator cap and thermostat would be a good start but I'm not sure if any of those (besides the cap) could cause this issue and I'm wondering if I'm seeing the start of a head gasket failure but not enough at idle to show up on a test? Maybe a partially clogged radiator? Any ideas or advice are welcome; especially if you have experience with similar issues with an ez30d. (aside from things like telling my my engine sucks or I should buy another car...lol) -
My 2003 H6 Outback transmission seems to work very well and shifting is very smooth but I have one complaint. When attempting to accelerate quickly it is very slow to respond and downshift. When starting from a full stop it's fine, but if I'm moving forward at much speed it seems to want to stay in high gear. If I floor it sometimes it's 2-3 seconds before it will downshift. This has caused me some embarrassment a few time when trying to pull in to traffic and merge and the car just does not go. There is no floor mat obstruction. I've seen a few threads where this is complained about but no real solutions mentioned. Ideally I would have the performance button to resolve this but this car is not equipped with that and it's apparently not feasible to add. My daughters Impreza 2.5i has very impressive throttle response even with the smaller engine. (electronic throttle) I've seen mention of removing the battery to get some algorithm to re-learn something. It that really a thing? Any suggestions or is this just the way it is? Thanks. -
I finally tracked down the oil sensor on our 2012 Outback. On this 6 cylinder engine, it is down low, screwed in just above the oil filter assembly. If I remove the sensor when the engine is full of oil, will it leak all over me and the floor ? Would it be best to do this as part of an oil change, and pull the sensor after draining the oil? The sensor comes with some red sealant on the threads, is that all I need when putting the new one in? Thanks for the input! Craig -
2001 Subaru Outback H6 3.0 150k miles The issue is that cylinders 1, 3 and 5 (the same side) are throwing a misfire code. I can notice the misfire at idle and the check engine light will flash when it's occurring. There's also was a code 0491 in the freeze-frame, using my cheapo OBDII scanner. If I clear the codes I will still experience the missfiring at idle but when the MIL starts blinking , as in the case of a misfire, I can give it 200-300 RPMs or more and hold it there (or simply drive away) and the MIL will go away. The traction control "VDC OFF" indicator comes on and off simultaneously with the MIL during these instances. I notice no issues with acceleration,cruising or shifting, nothing indicates a loss of power. I have owned two of the EXACT same vehicle (only difference was color) that had a new chain and related componants and hg job so I know how the EZ30 should feel like. I have referenced the following links but there seemed to be an unclear closure on the two issues: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/82331-check-engine-light-blinking-after-timing-chain-tensioner-replacemen-fixed-now-p0420/ http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/129688-misfiring-3-of-6-cylinders-in-a-2001-outback-h6/ Swapped around coils and O2 sensors and replaced plugs but no change was noticed. Took vehicle to Subaru Dealership and they were stumped. They suggested tearing down the head/removing timing cover and inspecting from there. The vehicle isn't worth that much so I was wondering if I could get your help. Have you guys ever come across anything like this ended up being another reason than the dreaded decision I face? Not generally a fan of additives but I will probably try seafoam in case it is a carbon buildup issue. Subaru performed various tests and everything checked out good. They also did compression test that isn't on their report and they said everything looked good around 150psi. I intend on doing a leakdown test as soon as I am able. This is Subaru's word (not much news really): Anyway, I understand I am in effect resurrecting old posts with this post but it has me and Subaru stumped. Thank you to anyone who cares to comment! -
After nearly two years of watching Craigslist and Subaru forums, I have finally found a 2001 Legacy Outback H6 wagon for trade whose owner is willing to consider my Passat 4motion 1.8T as a possible trade (since selling the Passat is hard despite all the work/money I put into it.) I'm supposed to go look at it this Saturday and it has had a lot of work done recently, according to the listing, despite being listed for $2,000. It's got some rust on the body, but it didn't sound major. I'm looking to hear from people who own third generation H6 Legacy Outbacks. What should I be keeping an eye/ear out for while looking at and test driving an H6 Outback. What sort of things should tell me that I should walk away and wait until I sell the Passat to straight up buy an Outback? Are head gasket problems as bad as the EJ25s of similar years? Is it possible they're trying to sell it because it's time for a new head gasket and they don't want to deal with it? EDIT: Shoot. The title could be worded so much better and I didn't realize you couldn't edit it until now. -
Drove this LL bean for a bit over 200,000 miles, gonna miss it. Body isn't worth it for me to put in a used motor, it needs brakes, struts, pretty much every bushing. Runs great though! Keep to someday fix? Sell outright with proper disclosure? Part it out? Gotta think on it. -
My 2003 H6 3.0L engine is experiencing a coolant system issue. At idle the heater blows cold air and if left to idle will start to overheat in a few minutes. The coolant overflow tank was at the correct level hot. The engine ran at normal temp and provided normal heat on the 50 mile hour ride to work this AM The engine has 200500.0 miles on it, 130,000.00 miles were put on in the last 3 years and are mostly highway miles. Three weeks ago the steel crossover pipe leaked and the engine overheated. I brought it to a local shop where they bypassed the pipe using hose. The car ran fine and everything seemed normal except I smelled burned coolant for 2 weeks, that I wrote off to the bath the motor took when the pipe leaked. My sense is the water pump is shot, but I hold out one last long shot hope which brings us to my question. Do H6 engines need "burping" after a coolant change and would the lack of burping cause this problem 3 weeks later? -
Need help finding a replacement, don't know the name of this line or where to find it. It is in the very front/bottom, it has a rubber fitting on each side, and two tabs holding it onto the timing chain cover. It comes from the thermostat area and goes to the oil filter area. -
So my Dad's Subaru I call "The Oil-less wonder" finally and predictably developed head gasket problems. Had it towed to the dealership with a broken fuel pump, they said they smelled exhaust coming from the radiator cap, says there's an internal coolant leak and quoted us $3000. Took it back home, repaired the fuel pump at home and ignored the so called gasket leak. Now I know for certain it has a head gasket leak. Cold starts are plagued by misfires and the check engine light comes on. I've decided it's time to rebuild the engine. Dad doesn't want a new car and Mom doesn't want a monthly car payment. Our options are to buy a second hand motor and drop it in, or take out the current motor, get a rental and let me have at it. TLDR: I'm replacing the head gaskets in a Legacy Outback H6 3.0, taking motor out. What else should I replace while I'm down there? I want to do: Water pump as many seals as I can reach piston rings spark plugs Question about timing chains: Rockauto doesn't seem to have them and I've seen them on google for $100 apiece. Is it a good idea to reuse the chains I have? Also are the gears made of plastic? -
My car normally rumbles all the time, like a fast swaying feeling. It's not a noise, it's what I feel when I'm sitting inside. It is fine when I drive. It's usually fine when I stop. It normally idles at about 800 - 900 rpm's, sometimes 500 rpm's. Recently it's been doing it worse, but chooses when to. Today it was fine. It seems like letting it sit without driving makes it occur, say 1-2 days. It lasted for at least half of my drive if not more. I went to O'Reilley's and the guy there was stumped more than me. It almost felt like it was misfiring a few days ago, like one of the cylinders wasn't turning fully and that the ratio was off. It scared me when the rpm's went all the way down to the first white line, very low, and it was swaying a lot more than I'm used to. It got worse if I accelerated in neutral; it would come down and low-rev shake more. It made me feel like it had 6 months or so until that shaking turns into an engine that just stops running out of no where. Ideas: Throttle wire tension not to spec, Spark plugs, vacuum leak, EGR, timing. Note: MPG Perfect I checked the MPG twice in a row. It's still 27 mpg (Perfect, to spec). In fact it's 27.09 MPG going 80 MPH - 90 MPH, and 27.11 MPG going 75 MPH. I use 89 sometimes, but mostly 91. (92 requirement). I never use 87 and never will. Note: No Check Engine Light Any other 6 cylinder subaru owners with similar problems? 2002 Subaru Outback H6 3.0 VDC Sedan - Engine: EZ30D If you can give me some help in narrowing down the issue I would appreciate it greatly. Thank you! -
I had my muffler on the bench, I was renewing the short piece of pipe I use to connect the muffler to the pipe from the resonator (ever since the muffler/pipe flanges disintegrated). The muffler was upside down on my tool cart and water started coming out of the bypass valve cover. The cover has been coming off for years and I have been ignoring it, but if water can come out an exhaust leak can't be far behind. I have been fully confident the valve has been stuck shut for years, if not since I bought the car. Recently I put softer springs from the ex pipe to the frame (pulling the exhaust against the converter donut since the bolt flanges disintegrated) to help the donut last longer, and when gunning it the pipe was forced back! A lot of back pressure. I didn't realize when you took the cover off it gives access to the shaft and spring, but you cannot remove the valve. Anyway the metal around where the cover bolts on was paper thin, so I just chiseled around the metal frame of the valve mechanism and then cut the metal frame with the die grander, and removed the entire valve. I cut a piece of 16ga mild steel to fit the over the opening and brazed it on (amazing how good a treadle shear can cut outside curves). Definitely revs up cleaner, starting at 4k or so. No longer sounds strained above 5k. No longer seems to creep from 5.5 k to redline. BTW I had driven over 20 miles in temps over 50 degrees, and the bypass part of the muffler had a good bit of water in it. Exhaust finds it way in there and the water condenses out, apparently even after everything is well warmed up.
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I recently have been helping a friend "repair" her 2000 Legacy Outback from a recent collision with an ELK!!! Hood, smashed, and drivers headlight busted and pushed in. Fender dented in but not crumpled back into door at all. Most of the force was in the "fall" of the elk onto the hood more than the "hit" pushing in. But anyhow...... The car had previously been "repaired" from a front end collision, so the passenger side headlight was already sunk in a tad. I sourced a '03 Baja hood and headlight.....cheap...with a bit of wrinkles but should match the car well since the fenders are not perfect, and the Bumper skin is gone. (a lift and bullbar are coming soon.....so the mad max...not so perfect look is fine) After bolting it all up,...it seems the hood and headlight are 3/4 inch or so longer than they should be. It really doesn't seem like the rad support is that far off. In fact it measures out to within 1/4" of a stock undamaged reference car. But still the hood and driver headlight are noticably farther forward in front than the headlight on the other side. Does anyone no if there is a difference in these hoods headlights? did they make the front end longer a hair when they introduced the H6? And Baja didn't have an H6 so why would they be longer? Or is something still just "off" with the front support piece? Anyone? -
My old man's car blew its head gasket according to the dealer. So in an attempt to save a few mortgage payments getting this car's gaskets replaced in a dealer, I figured I could do it myself. Now, I'm no slouch in the mechanic department; I'm wondering if any other members here have done the head gasket themselves on an H6 EZ30 motor. The repair industry calls for 14 hours for each head gasket and I know that there's not very much clearance at all in the engine compartment. Provided the heads are not damaged (the rad did boil over) I could potentially save a lot of money. The labor is not something I'm fearing. TLDR: Head gasket blew on an H6 3.0 (EZ30) engine. I want to replace the gaskets myself. I have an AllData printout of what i need to do but: Do I need to take the engine out? Do I need any special tools? Any tips from the pros? what to look out for, what not to do etc. Thanks a lot in advance, wish me luck!
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New to the forum and the world of Subarus (for the most part). My girlfriend and I selling our vehicles (hers a 2000 Wrangler, just sold, mine a 2001 Buick, still on the market) and are planning on buiying a sub 100k mile Subaru wagon for between $5k and $7k, preferably around 6500. We don't have a specific model in mind, but I am looking for advice on what the most reliable models in that price range would be (from about 1999 to 2005).. I know Subarus are known for their reliability, but i have noticed here and there on the Web that certain issues arise in certain engines. Any and all input would be appreciated! As of yet, we are still waiting to sell my car before making a purchase. However, we may look at a 2004 Outback H6 with 80k miles this weekend, so any info on that model would be great! I noticed the gas mileage wasn't great and the transmission a bit dated. Any issues? Yay or nay on this model? It's listed at $5900, well below KBB, so I'm just as suspicious as I am excited.
