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Showing results for tags 'hvac'.
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I have 2008 Outback LL Bean with auto climate control and recently, it stopped blowing any heat on the driver's side. I figured a clogged heater core was to blame, but before I dove into a flush, I decided to also check the actuators in the dash and see if they were working. I found that the driver's side actuator (72131AG27A) does not move when the hvac system is run through the positions and heat setttings. The passenger's side actuators, (three of them!) visibly move through the same hvac cycles. Figuring the driver's side actuator must be dead and stuck in the cold position, I've tried ordering the part, but have a hard time finding it. As of today, it's discontinued if I call a dealership. Some sites list it, but they cancel the order when they can't find it. Does anyone know if it's possible to repair a non responsive actuator? Is there another place to search for hard to find Subaru parts? Can I manually bypass the actuator to get heat? Any help is greatly appreciated.
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A little background: My RX has no A/C. The passenger's side window wiring is damaged and sometimes doesn't like to roll back up, so I don't use it. In the heat we're starting to get around Seattle this means driving with the HVAC fan on high with the driver's side window open to stay cool. Last week I noticed that after parking for a quick errand, when I got back in and restarted the car, the blower fan simply refused to turn on. Fan speed doesn't matter, HVAC mode doesn't matter, HVAC temperature doesn't matter. It seems that if I leave the car sitting the fan will eventually come back to life, but there is nothing you can do in the meantime (once it took a full day to come back, just yesterday it only took an hour). I did some research, found this thread, but was wondering if anyone has experienced this issue in the past and could save me some troubleshooting time.
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I'm working on a 92 loyale 4wd wagon AT and AC. When I select anything on the panel the AC compressor runs and cycles on and off while its running down the road. I can tell because it pulls on the engine when the compressor engages. I have seen defrost cycles run the AC compressor on some cars, but not the heater. Is this designed into these cars? This is the 2nd panel I have changed on the car because the vacuum valves inside the panel dried up, but both have acted the same way with respect to the AC running. Any suggestions or help is appreciated!
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Heater switch, er HVAC was wonky when I bought my 87 gl. It required constant pressure to work the heater. I used duck tape for a while until it completely failed me. Upon pulling the HVAC line out, some of its "bearings" were loose because parts of it were melted. I pulled one from another car that appeared fine and swapped it. I also replaced the resistor and heater blower motor with brand new ones. AND GUESS WHAT?! It still acts weird, needing pressure or to be pressed just right to work when you let go. Granted all fan settings work now instead of only the 4th one with the original melted pos. Please, someone tell me what I am missing here.
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My heat and air all work wonderfully, however they will not blow on 4(high). In the last year the blower motor assembly has been replaced, as well as the blower resistor, and the system does not behave any different. I checked the plug to the blower motor and on all settings and there is 12 volts coming in, however, the plug is not grounding on the number 4 fan setting. Any help is appreciated. Cheers.
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Howdy folks. Glad to see USMB back up and running. Seriously. I write today regarding a lack of climate control. '87 GL wagon. No venting. No heating. This and that. I just replaced the blower motor resistor hoping that would do the trick. It didn't. Though that's okay, the old one was shot. Corroded and bent. Had to happen anyway. Now, where should I go from here? Replace the blower motor? Test it? It looks as nasty as the resistor did. What can I test to point me in the right direction? Much thanks in advance.