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Showing results for tags 'ignition'.
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So I have had a recurring problem with my 1990 loyale not wanting to start. It was intermittent but got worse as time went on. Symptom: When car was hot or from a cold start, when I turned the key I would hear a clicking sound coming from the engine compartment. I would turn the key over and over again until it would finally turn over (sometimes it would take 50 times!). Car would run fine after starting. Attempts to Fix: Replaced coolant temperature sensor: A lot of posts on these causing hot starting issues. Did not fix the problem. Replaced starter: nope. Cleaned all battery connections and connections to starter: didn't fix problem Changed out battery and replaced with new one: still had same issues Actual Fix: After reading up on the USMB forums and on other toyota forums I discovered that the early Subarus do not have starter relays. As the wiring gets older and more worn out, the power going to the starter diminishes. The fix is to put a relay in between the starter and the ignition. Some people recommend buying a cheap headlight relay and wiring it in yourself. You can look up starter relay or ignition relay yourself to find instructions. Not being a mechanic myself, I chose this kit: Bosch WR1 Starter Relay Kit http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-WR1-Starter-Relay/dp/B001COAX78 The kit comes with a relay, all the wires, and easy to follow instructions including a wiring diagram. It took me 20 minutes to wire up and made the whole process a breeze. Mystery Solved! Starts up without hesitation. For $25.00 this was a cheap and painless fix (once I figured out the actual problem) Hope this helps some of my fellow vintage sub owners. Peace!- 7 replies
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- ignition starting not loyale
- collant sensor
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The time has finally come for the Ignition Lock to get stuck in my Brat. It was already in a state where the key could be removed in any position and while driving around. Currently it is stuck in the Run position, and can start the car, but will not turn back to shut the car off. Is it possible to remove this lock cylinder? I have a parts GL Brat with a good lock cylinder in it to swap out if so. 1985 Brat Gl (tilt column steering)
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I have a 1990 Subaru loyale with a no start no spark I’ve replaced ignition distributor made sure it is properly wired the only thing is the ignition pulse if I’ve done the test right with a test light. there is no pulse. There is also other random stuff that doesn’t work on the car , lights, dash light etc. I wondering if it is infact the ecu that isn’t working and if not other things it would be side note there is no check engine light or codes -
Hi guys, I am trying to do a tune-up on my 98 Legacy outback & ordered a wireset & coil from Rock Auto months ago. Finally went to put it in & it was all wrong. I thought it must be a mistake so went down to Napa to get the correct set & the one the pulled up is the same as Rock Auto. Now this is obviously wrong - the coil on my 98 has the female sockets for the plug wires & even the bolt pattern is different than the one I got on Rock Auto so it wasn't just a coil swap. My ID plate says 98' EJ25D which seems correct... Any ideas? ... What gives?
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hey all, I recently acquired a 1990 legacy. Drove it for a couple days, then all of a sudden I'm driving along and all of a sudden the car dies instantly with all electrical gone. Checked the battery and alternator and both are good. Tracked it down to the fusible link in the underhood fuse box, which had blown. So i grabbed another one, put it in and as soon as i hooked the battery up it blew up. Pulled all the fuses in the box, put in another and smoked it too. So i'm at a loss. I'm new to Subaru's, anyone have electrical issues like this before? I don't know what would be upstream of the fuse panel that, with all fuses removed, would be smoking this fusible link like that. Any help would be appreciated, thanks! -
I have a 2003 Forester XS with 217,000 miles and a misfire code for cylinder #3 (P0303). The plugs were replaced with NGK's 7500 miles ago and the wires about 17000 miles ago with NAPA lifetime made by Belden. After looking for obvious problems (loose wires, shorts), I replaced the coil pack with a used one from a '04 Forester. The junkyard just said that the engine ran well that it came out of. When I switched out the packs, it ran better, but its still skipping occasionally and throwing the same code. I also have a small evap leak (P0442), but I doubt that's related. I decided to check the wires with a timing light. FWIW, these are the results: Original Coil: #1 Fast light, occasional skip; #2 Slow and intermitted light; #3 slow and intermittent light; #4 fast light, no skip. Junkyard Coil: #1 Fast light, occasional skip; #2 Slow and steady light, occasional skip; #3 Fast light, occasional skip; #4 Fast light, no skip. I'm wondering if I got a second bad coil pack. Also, is there any protocol for bench testing the coil pack? -
Hi guys, I was trying to get home last night and went to start my Leone but she wouldn't fire. It was turning over but not igniting and i'm just looking for advice on what to do/buy/try. I called the local road side assistance who came and tested a few things out. He did a light test and said he was 90% sure it was the 'Distributor Pickup', as the ignition coil had power and there was no fuel problem. I believe he also mentioned something about the spark plugs working, but it was pretty late and I can't quite remember. I'm not entirely sure what a distributor pick up is, but is it easy enough to get a new one and replace it? Or do i need to replace the whole dizzy? It's a 1983 Leone with and EA81. Any help much appreciated Adrian.
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For the last 3 weeks I've been battling a cluster eff of symptoms most here would think are related to failing sensors, injection or other. And there were no CEL or codes stored(!!!) Things replaced or checked in order Replaced efi fuel pump & filter. Pump had died in mid July. Blew air thru suction line to clear any junk on fuel tank strainer - nothing Checked evap cannister & fuel tank purge lines - good. Checked evap sol valve - good. Replaced plugs, cap & rotor, spark plug wires, coil. Replaced optical sensor in distrib & upper 6200 sealed ball brg. Needed optical sensor as there was corrosion inside distrib. Brg was 'crunchy' Replaced MAF sensor - twice. Once with unknown used one & once with "reman" Cardone MAF. Waiting for known good genuine Hitachi MAF to arrive. Then will put "Car-do-nay" on shelf as spare Checked CTS - good. Pulled apart air cleaner & snorkel under fender to check for obstruction - good Rebuilt SPFI throttle body & checked TPS for dead spots - good Checked front cat, rear cat & muffler for obstructions. Replaced rear cat for general principle as it was a 8 yr old aftermarket Magnaflow CA legal cat. Added an O2 sensor bung ahead of new cat for 96 EJ efi conversion. My 87 4wd GL was bucking-cutting out randomly. Stalling after starting. Losing power at top end in any gear. Got to point of being undriveable. I have no room in driveway right now(of course) to Ej it otherwise I would have. Will have to wait until I have space to work. Car is registered in MT so it is exempt. Yay! After replacing the rear cat & getting no where I stopped for the night to test drive again in morning. Glad I did. Started with difficulty. stalling a few times until it ran with coaxing from me using throttle pedal - a lot of coaxing. As I was getting in driver's seat, I hit the lower dash panel. Then it died. AHA!!!!! Pulled down panels. Started digging into the wiring to look for loose connections but found none. Pulled down ECM & swapped in my backup ECM. Replaced ignition & fuel pump relays above ECM mount while I was there(had ordered them a week before just in case). Started engine with no problem & no stalling. IAC behaved normally raising idle to warm up. As I was lifting ECM back in place the engine died again. Hmmm. Started checking further into wiring. Found that there was corrosion in sensor connector - the translucent white connector with all the shielded sensor wiring. All sensor wires go thru there. Cleaned the contacts.Then repeatedly put conn together & pulled it apart a few times to 'wipe away' the corrosion. Put ECM back in mount bracket. Went for test drive. Runs better than it has in months. I can recall some hesitation, loss of power & etc when I came back from MT. This must've been it all along. Anyone else mystified by a long long list of things checked or replaced with no positive result ought to look under the dash at sensor connector(its next to rectangular gray diode to left of ECM) & ECM connector corrosion. Look to the engine bay harness for corrosion too. Any intermittent connection in harness would replicate the symptoms we associate with clogged cats, failing ignition, failing injector, failing MAF, etc. Enough to drive you nuts............. Happy hunting! -
I need to replace the entire ignition lock assembly on our 2000 Legacy Outback due to a problem making electrical contact to start the vehicle. All of the Subaru specific videos I saw on YouTube only address replacing the cylinder. Does anyone know if there is any good tutorial out there and any specific tools I might need over the ordinary tool-box tools? Thank-You for your time and consideration!!! -
My key got pulled out while in the on position, so I have spent half a day trying to pick it to no avail. If you have ever taken the core out of one let me know. I don't want to have a push button kind of thing! So: I have an 81 Brat, but I believe the wagons were the same. Please help! Wanted ignition with key shipped 83467 -
1988 GL 10 Turbo Wagon Ignition Removal
CFTrunt posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I have a 1988 GL10 Turbo Wagon. I have an intermittent starting problem. It starts several times and then it does not. All power comes on and there is a slight click but the solenoid will not engage. I continue to turn the key to start and after 10 or 15 attempts it will engage. The battery is new and the charging circuit is operational. I replaced the starter with a new - not remanufactured - starter. The problem continues. I am now pretty certain the actual ignition/key lock switch is bad. How do I remove it? I have a tilt column. I have heard there is a video on YouTube but I cannot find it. I am ok putting in a new switch and key keeping the old key for the doors but I might have the tumbler keyed to the old key. -
2005 Outback after sitting idle for about 2 weeks now will start but not accelerate. Check engine light and cruise control light are on. Drive by wire problem? Suggestions? -
Okay, everybody, so I'm having another problem with my '92 Loyale. It was running fine with the new battery and I got the shim for the loose terminal and that was the fix. But now it struggled to start a couple nights ago, and it's been really, really cold out in my area. It gave a good crank and tried to start but died. I tried again and the same thing happened. Tried once more and that time I pumped the gas while I cranked engine and it got started then, but the vehicle vibrated a little and the idle did not start out high but very low. Also there's been a squealing noise too, like maybe a belt on one of the pulleys? Once the engine warms up the squeal usually stops. After that I was able to start the car fine each time but there's this problem of it idling really low. Any answers, guys? Could it be the arctic weather that caused the problem? Too much cold weather affecting the engine and components? And what can I do about it? I don't think the timing slipped because I got that fixed already last year, brand new timing belt and new plugs and distributor. I saw one of Scotty Kilmer's vids about using an idle throttle cleaner that could solve the problem, but what does my situation seem like to you guys? -
For some time the key has been hard to turn to "Lock" in the ignition of my 2006 Outback. It's a duplicate, not an original key, that was programmed with my fob, though I do have an original key available. Yesterday the key would not turn in either direction, slightly out of Lock position. My son (at LATTC in Los Angeles) to become a mechanic) got it out and after running some diagnostics thinks it could be worn tumblers from years of jiggling and pressure to get the key out OR the spring that allows the pin to move and allow the key to move into lock position is worn. Since the key won't turn in either direction now (something new as of yesterday, I don't know. He checked the electrical components which are fine. The Subaru dealer parts guy says ALL locks must be replaced, $475 just for parts, because changing out just one part would do something to the security system. Suggestions? My son was able to get the key out, but right now the car is going nowhere. -
Hello all - 1996 Legacy L sedan with 218,000 miles and an IN-CAR head gasket job completed last month (oh my back! ). Car has been running through 2 tanks of gas with no problems. During mile 38 on 40 mile freeway drive at 2:30am, the electrical system on the car suddenly shut down and I coasted the car to a stop on the road shoulder. Hazard blinkers were functional, along with interior lights and power locks. High beams would turn on brightly, but since the headlights/parking lights are tied to the ignition, these were not operable. I could only conduct a few quick checks roadside: - bang on fuel pump - directly since I took the access plate in the trunk off. Done this routine before on several cars . - check tight battery connections - recently cleaned during head gasket replacement last month - this was fine. - timing belt intact - all fuses in engine bay and under dash continuity checked ok - starter cranked the engine, but the engine simply would not start Then the car got towed home the last 2 miles of my intended drive. Fortunately a flatbed tow truck showed up in 10 min via AAA and I was home only 30min after the mess. - I had to help the tow truck driver get into the shifter plate to manually override the shifter interlock so he could put the car in neutral. With the key-On position, the solenoid for the shifter interlock would not move......no elec power going to it. I have since conducted these tests: - battery voltage in good standing is 12.65V - alternator removed, tested and passed - ohmed out coil pack - pass. No burn throughs. - grounds confirmed good - removed and cleaned again anyway - checked all fuses and the main fusible link with ohm-meter - none blown - pulled and checked all engine connector harnesses (bell housing, MAF, igniter, ECM under the passenger floor). - checked continuity on all positions of the ignition switch - pass. Getting 12V to the backside of the switch by probing the solder points. - pulled and cleaned crank and cam position sensors - not much interesting there. Here's the fun part : - none of the warning lights on the dash will light in the Key-On position - this is what I find very disturbing. . - Starter/solenoid happily cranks the engine, but won't start. I have experienced bad start contacts before - this isn't the what is going on here) - cannot read ANY CEL codes because there is no power to the ECU when Key-On - fuel pump will not turn (can't hear a click from the pump relay anyway) - shifter interlock still not operable because of no power going to its solenoid - tied to ignition key-on. I could start changing out crank/cam position sensors, coolant temp sensor, MAF, etc.....but none of these single point items can easily explain why the entire power circuit is not operating. Even if the ECU died, I should still get direct power up to it. In looking at the wiring diagrams, I am thinking the ignition relay (the brown, really-hard-to-reach-one under the dash) might have conked out. This is the only way I can think of that I can still crank the starter, but hot have any electrical controls that drive the fuel pump, the warning lights, and the ECU. I'm going to attempt to get at the ignition relay today to pull and test it - that will take me all morning and lots of scrapes on arms. Any other suggestions are most welcome as I try to figure this out. -
I have a 91 Legacy wagon and I purchased a new battery in March. After purchasing the new battery I drove the car daily for awhile, but about 2 weeks ago I stopped driving it and it was sitting for about 4 or 5 days. After those 4 or 5 days I tried to start it again and it would not start and none of the lights would come on either. I do know that one of the car's back doors will not close properly, and this causes a very small dashboard light to remain lit constantly when the battery is charged. Could it be that this very small light caused the battery to drain over time? I am guessing that doing a jump start will recharge the battery at this point since the battery is brand new. But do you think that small dashboard light is what caused the battery to die in the first place? Do you think it will eventually die again due to this light even if I am able to get it started by jumping it? If so, is there an easy way to disable this dashboard light without having an effect on the vehicle? I had planned to sell the vehicle since I was no longer using it, but this may not be a possibility unless I can get it started by jumping it. Even then, I would hate for the person who purchased it to have the battery die on them for any reason like it did on me. -
Ok, so this is a follow on to the "fuel pimp or something else" post started a few weeks ago. After putting in a new fuel pump, there has been no change. My 86 Brat turns over (when jumped) but will not run. I have taken a lot of the advice given so far, and its much appreciated. Also just installed a new ignition coil. In checking for spark from the new coil, there still is none. Another symptom worth mentioning, it blows the IGN fuse at every attempted start up. So here is a description of the items highlighted/circled in the photo. Please let me know if anything looks amiss. Red circle: IGN coil hot side, 2 wires/one red end wire from the center disty connection, one from a harness bundle under the IGN coil; Yellow circle: IGN coil ground side, 3 wires/one yellow end wire from center disty connection, one from harness bundle (also" yellow ended) under the IGN coil, and one from "transistor" thing (circled green) mounted under IGN coil. Black circle, and blue circle are "homeless" connectors, nothing to tie them to. Any advice is much appreciated!~
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Siiiiiighhhh. Okay, so now I'm having another problem with my Subaru Loyale. When I try to turn the ignition off, the key won't come out. It will turn as far as cutting off, but not to the full off position. I use the method the manual tells me, to reach under the steering wheel and put your finger in the hole where you toggle the little button inside that releases the key, and it does. But I just wanna know WHY this is happening and what to do about it? And is it dangerous to keep driving?
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I have a 2010 Forester. So even though you remove the key from the ignition the door chime constantly goes off with the door open. the head lights do not turn off and the doors will not lock with the power locks. outside the car the remote transmitter will not lock/unlock the car also the alarm will not arm. I'm guessing the car still thinks the key is in the ignition but why? -
1986 GL 1.8L 2 Door Hatchback - EA21 Car starts fine. When I turn the ignition switch to the 'Acc' position (Maybe 'on' it's dark out.) I'm hearing a steady clicking sound. I don't notice it when the engine is running, but the sound of the engine could mask it. I traced it for a bit and it seems to be coming from just behind center towards the rear of the vehicle, centered somewhere near the drive-line or so. Just curious as to what this could be, I'm assuming it's not supposed to be there, as the engine isn't even running (not to mention it's a clicking sound). I'm not even sure of anything electrical in that area. Are there relays under the rear seats somewhere? Thanks for any help, prior. -
Alright, so after 7 months I have finally got my car running again. I asked a friend of my mom's to give it one more jump the day after Thanksgiving, and this time I let the car run for almost 2 hours to get the battery charged up. So it's not an alternator or battery problem like some here were saying, but now the only problem is that every time I go to turn the key, there is a delay for some seconds before the car actually starts/cranks. Anybody have any idea what that could be? Starter relay? Ignition switch? The starter itself? The starter is new and was put in back in April but may not necessarily mean it's good. Anybody have any idea?
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hey cleaned engine and and replaced all gaskets but now my fuel pump doesnt work and distr. is not getting spark. what did i do? -
Some horrible person tried to steal my 1993 Legacy wagon. It has been stolen before but got it back. This time the person tried to steal it but messed up the ignition and now the key will not go in all the way and will not turn. I looked up a few threads including: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/116698-ignition-switch-lock-cyl-replacement/ I watched the youtube video and removed the plastic covering around steering column. There is a hole in the ignition switch that if I could turn the key I could press there and I could pop it out and just replace it. Then I would not have to take steering wheel and more off. I am ok with having different keys for ignition and door. The problem is of course I can't get the key in to ignition to turn it. Questions: Could a locksmith could get the key to turn? How long would it take to do the long way (take off steering wheel) and think it is possible for someone who has not done something like this before? Any thoughts appreciated. Thanks for your time in advance! -
can i get some help on installing a switch or something to prevent theft of 1990 loyale? Thank you.
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Problem has been happening since I bought the car. Whenever I go to floor it the rpm's die down a few hundred, for about one whole second, and then shoot to redline. Problem has been happening on hitachi and weber. (this is the reason I swapped). New ignition coil, wires and plugs. Cap and rotor look good, but should I replace those? This is mostly a problem in gear, letting the clutch out without having rpms at like 6k will cause the car to die. Was thinking a fluid change is in order? Maybe seafoam? When the engine is not under load it almost always only dives down, and doesn't die. Also, how are nn a/c cars' alternators attached? Just with the one bolt? I took off my a/c and that's all I ran for a little bit (hour max) but it seems to get loose too quickly and has destroyed my water pump bearing. How are yours held on? Pics are welcome Thanks -CL
