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Showing results for tags 'issues'.
Found 10 results
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So I have a 2000 Subaru Legacy GT Sedan that I’ve had about 2 years and just over a year ago the windshield wipers and sprayers started going off non stop. Pulled the fuse to make it stop and just used a bunch of rain x to put a bandaid on it. Just last night I was on my way home and my passenger headlight went out shortly followed by my drivers side headlight. When it went out I heard a loud click. The brights still work but no DRL or low beams. Both fuses are mint as is the relay and the bulbs, any thoughts on what this could be? Also upon looking it seems that there was a blowout on the drivers front tire that really messed up the wire harness, does anyone think this is the culprit and if so what portion of the wire harness is this?
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So I dropped the clutch in 1st at about 5k rpms in some loose gravel to try to drift, the car bogged out hard but continued to run. Then the CEL came on and it idled high around 1200 rpm instead of the usual 5-600 rpms. Then after finding out auto zone couldn't run my codes I tried to drive home. After about 15 minutes The car bogged out under light throttle at a stop light trying to move in 1st. Then it wouldn't start after that. Plugged the black CEL memory cables in and turned the key to ON. now it's throwing codes 16, 17, 22, 23, 24, 35, 42, and 49 when the CEL was never on before. The car won't start at all just cranks and cranks until the battery dies. All stock ej22t awd 5 speed manual -
Hi everyone, first time poster. Im posting to warn everone about an issue with the late model (2012-2017) Foresters and possibly all Subaru's built on that chassis. The problem is the area under the spare tire is rusting (you have to remove the spare to see it) I have rust and peeling paint and my car was only a month old when i discovered it! As far a i can tell from discussions I've had on another forum, the two rubber plugs in the bottom of the round depression in the trunk (spare tire well) are letting water in. Some cars only have dirt and water stains but some are rusting at a surprising rate. I would venture to guess it is a paint quality issue. A properly painted metal surface should not rust when it comes in contact with water....ever. Here are some pics of my spare tire well. ...keep in mind the car was only a month old when i noticed it. Pull your spares and take a peek and use some silacone,rtv,gasket maker to seal it when you replace it. Hope you have better luck than I did
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I have a 91 Legacy wagon which constantly has issues with starting. Normally if it has been sitting for a few hours without being driven then it will start up just fine, but if I drive it somewhere and then turn it off and try starting it again shortly afterwards, it will not stay started. The only way I have found to make it stay started when I am having trouble is to press on the accelerator as I am starting it, and then I have to leave my foot on the accelerator for a few minutes to keep the car from turning off again. I recently got a new battery, had the alternator checked (it was said to be fine), new fuel pump, ecm repaired, fuel intake system cleaned and new fuel filter, new air control valve, and plenty of other repairs along with it. Everything is perfectly fine with the car as far as I can tell, so unless there is something else that someone can think of which may be causing the issues I am having, then I have no idea what could be wrong other than it is simply an old car and that alone could be causing problems. I have already put over $1,500 worth of work into this vehicle since the problems started, and I am not ready to try anything else unless it is cheap or easy. Can anyone can suggest anything that I can possibly try to fix the problem which may be cheap or easy to do? Aside from that I will probably unfortunately just have to cut my losses and get rid of the car. The air intake hose was replaced in October, so I doubt if that is the issue even though it sounds like a likely culprit. -
I have a 91 Subaru Legacy and it will not stay started when I start it unless it has been sitting for awhile, for example overnight. But if for instance I drive to the store and then shut off the engine and go inside and then come back out and try to start it again, then it will not stay started when I try to leave unless I give it gas at startup and I also have to keep my foot on the gas for several minutes to keep it from shutting off. I just had the following work done on it among other things: engine control module replaced, o2 sensor replaced, fuel pump replaced, fuel filter replaced and entire fuel system cleaned, air intake system cleaned/repaired. This along with everything else that was done came to over $1,500, and the car was in the shop for well over a month. Needless to say I do not want to take it back to the shop or invest any more money in it at this point. However I am curious to know what else could be causing it to not stay started aside from the things that I have already had looked at/replaced. I realize that it is an older car, but up until a few months ago I wasn't having any issues at all with it. I initially took it to the shop only because sometimes it wouldn't start at all unless I started it with my foot on the gas, but that only happened sometimes (though it did begin to occur more and more frequently and had gotten pretty bad by the time I took it to the shop). Is there something else that I could possibly do myself to fix the issue that I am having without spending an insane amount of money? Also, is it hurting the car to keep driving it even though it is doing what it is doing? I only still drive it like that because I have no other transportation at the moment. I also know it isn't the battery because I just had the battery replaced earlier this year, and all of the lights and other functions (radio, e.t.c.) work just fine. Side note: Not sure if this is an issue either, but if I turn the engine off and just sit with the key turned in the ignition (in the position just before starting the engine), then I hear a humming sound coming from the car which usually only seems to stop if I completely remove the key from the ignition.
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I have a 91 Legacy wagon which has been having startup issues on occasion. I usually manage to get it started by attempting to start it with my foot on the gas pedal, but when it starts it usually sputters for awhile and often turns off again. When I just turn the key in the ignition prior to starting it, I always hear a humming sound, and I wonder if that sound is related to or indicates the fuel pump may be going bad? Also whenever I drive the car it often has trouble accelerating especially after I've stopped at a stoplight. I just had the oil changed and had the fuel filter replaced and fuel system cleaned at the shop 3 days ago, and they also did diagnostics. But they didn't say anything about a faulty fuel pump, or maybe they didn't even consider it. Either way this all cost me over $300 already, so I just wonder if anyone has any ideas or suggestions before I spend any more money. Thank you all.
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Really need someone who could give me an idea of what it might ve -
So I just picked up my very first Subaru. Its a 2002 Forester L. Of course the jerk who sold it to me forgot to mention that the headlights don't work. I replaced the bulbs with new ones, and still nothing. If I "fiddle" with the drivers side bulb connector I can get both of the headlights to come on, but they are very dim. Oh, and the passenger brights come on... WTF?!? I checked the ground cleaned it off and it didn't change anything, also I squirted some dielectric grease one the headlight connectors because they're a bit corroded, drivers side is actually burnt a little bit too. I'm assuming the problem is bad three prong female connectors, but i'm confused on why both headlights turn on very dimly when I fiddle with the drivers side connector. Any tips/advice would be much appreciated! Thanks in advance. -
Oh, this is a fun one. ('87 GL Wagon) Was on a lunch break at work last week. Decided to hose the dust off the car. Finished up, shut the hose off, looped it on the loopy. Turned around and my tail lights were on. Baffled, I unlocked and opened the driver-side door, peered inside as if I was going to locate the problem, paused, realized... "****!" Long story short, it's been a week and it hasn't rained. If whatever got wet was going to dry out, it would've by now. (The fuse box inside the cabin is dry by the way) I found the fuse within the circuit, so I've been pulling it everytime I park. Now, there is a plethora of custom electrical work on this rig. Meaning, I'm asking for help regarding what it could be though things could be different. Fuse 4 seems to be the guy that stops the non-sense. What, I say what would cause the rear tail lights, as well as the front indicators to stay on, with the car off, keys outta the ignition? Thank you, thank you all in advance. -BR. -
Well hi there. Upon the installation of a nice Alpine deck, replacing my GL's stock AM/FM radio - I've ran into a few issues. 1 - Confirmed left front speaker blown 2 - Confirmed right front speaker inoperable? 3 - Left rear speaker missing 4 - Right rear speaker intact - though speaker wires in panel are cut? Kay - Those were simply "discoveries" I @#$%'d up maybe a thing or two. This was my first stereo install. I'm not mad, I think I did pretty well considering a lack of previous experience. Would someone perhaps like to elaborate - "Switched Power" vs. Battery Lead. Switched power is... When the car is turned to ACC or ON, no? Regardless of how I wire it, when the engine is shut off, the deck shuts off as well. I've seen a few threads on here relating to such issues, though perhaps they didn't answer my questions. I'll be picking up speakers later today. Wiring <what> to <what>... Can screw <what> up? What should I wire "Illumination" to? Thank you fellow enthusiasts.
