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Showing results for tags 'knock sensor'.
Found 11 results
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My Forester has a P0327 code. I checked the voltage on the shielded wire coming from the wiring harness to the sensor and it is 0.01 volts, not 2.5 or 5 volts. We have a recurring problem with pack rats getting into the engine compartment. I kill them within a day of discovery, but they do a lot of damage just overnight. The wire coming out from the ECU/ wire harness to the knock sensor pigtail has several rat bites in it, so I assume the 0.01 volt reading is due to another cut in the wire somewhere upstream of where I found the cuts. The harness is very tight and seems largely inaccessible from the knock sensor back toward the firewall, so was thinking of adding a new wire back to the knock sensor from closer to the ECU. Any thoughts or suggestions about adding a new shielded wire? The car has 176,000 miles and runs great, I've owned the car since it was new. The Subaru dealer suggested not worrying about it, but if I can get the sensor working again and get rid of the check engine light without completely disassembling the engine to get to the whole wiring harness, I'd like to fix it. Thanks. -
Hey All, I've been getting a knock sensor ECU code (code 22 with FreeSSM) lately and have all the symptoms associated with a faulty knock sensor. I am trying to find a suitable replacement whether it be factory or not. My issue though, is for some reason my specific model Impreza almost never shows up anywhere, whether it's finding parts that fit or searching for my model on subaru's official site and other places. I was hoping to get some help figuring out why this model is so illusive and ways to get around this, for example finding another model with the same parts that I can use for reference instead? It's a 2002 Impreza RV 2.0L SOHC AWD 5 speed manual Hatchback, with an EJ20 engine. I have asked a few sellers of Knock Sensors suited for EJ20 whether it fits my model but they say it doesnt and can't find a suitable product so i'm pulling out my hair. The garage wants at least $250 for the job (if they can find the right part), but I've seen that you can buy factory ones for ~$80, knock-off's for ~$30 and replace it yourself so I'm trying to go the cheaper route. Any help would be awesome!! Cheers, Tom -
The check engine light came on and the code came up as the knock sensor. We will make an appointment to get it replaced, but is it ok to drive for a week or two? This would include a 3 hour mostly highway trip. Thanks in advance!!! -
I have replaced the knock sensor once previously. That last time the code was p0325. This time the car has a p1325 code. The cel light is not always on but it never blinks which I know is real bad for the cat. I have no issue buying a knock sensor and installing it but I do have two questions. Why a p1325 (now) versus a p0325 (in the past)? While doing a search on this web site, a long time user mentioned that for $20 a knock sensor could be had on eBay. When I did a search on eBay I found sensors for as little as $6 something and a flood of them for under $10. I am a firm believer in you get what you pay for and $6 seems like you are buying junk. Autozone wants $80 for one while I can pick up one from Rockauto in the 40-60 range. Am I overthinking this? Can I use the cheap Chinese junk being pushed on eBay or should I order the Bosch unit on Rockauto for $40? Car is a 2000 Legacy Outback Limited - 173,000 miles Steve -
Hi, I was replacing my knock sensor and pulled a little too hard when trying to disconnect the sensor from the connector and the male end of the connector disconnected from it's wire (see attached). It's in a tight spot to solder the wire back to the connector. Any suggestions? Thanks!
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Help! Just took my 1998 Forester in for knock sensor replacement and was told the following should be done: knock sensor-$370 valve cover gaskets- $470 crank seals-$755 timing belt while they're in there because they have to remove it anyway -$100 just for belt no additional labor left front axle cover torn and grease is "going everywhere" - $393 So, my question is do I dole out $2000 + on this car? My daughter goes to school in Syracuse - 3.5 hour drive and the plan was for her to take it to campus in the fall. I'm freaking out! Thank you!
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SOLVED I replaced my knock sensor by taking off the intake and then the throttle body since I have very big hands, and now when I turn it on the car goes to 5k rpm and stays there. Any ideas? I also relocated the knock sensor to a higher position as per suggestion somewhere on rs25, do you think that's the problem? -
98 ej22 in a Legacy L. ~141k I'm pretty stumped at this point and I appologize for a long post - bare with me here: After an oil change I start the engine with the knock sensor disconnected. I then reset the ECU or clear the code. Don't ask me why - it prevents the bogging issue - it works for me. After the latest oil change at 140k (Castrol 10w-40, FRAM filter), however, I have been getting the typical knock sensor bogging issue even after the tribal oil change dance. I moved the knock sensor to the location of a factory ground point (on bracket above starter), reset the ECU and drove for about 100 miles. Knocking? Yes. Hesitation, bogging BS? No. Corrosion was apparent on the mating surfaces so I sanded them back to clean metal. I then tried the old knock sensor in the factory location, reset ECU and got no joy. I do observe the ~15mile learning cycle by the ECU before it begins to bog. It is at this point I was confident a new knock sensor would fix my woes. I purchased a new Knock Sensor from Autozone and installed in correct location with about 15 ft-lbs making sure to orient the wire lead so that it was clear of block protrusions. Reset the ECU and got no joy. Now I started to suspect a bad connection so I cut the wire and hardwired the old knock sensor in sans connector. That resulted in no change of symptoms (see note 1 below). Now I was becoming befuddled and a bit ticked off. I can change the performance of the car by relocating the knock sensor but a new one won't fix the problem. I figured I didn't need a new knock sensor and, at this point, I started to march down the path of "Gee, maybe there's too much knock!" so I returned the new KS to Autozone. I drained/refilled and burped (to death) cooling system and installed a new thermostat (the bigger OEM type) and a new rad cap. Operates right around 180-190F according to OBDII data so it is not running hot. Then I went after the ignition system a bit: I installed $40 NGK wires and NGK Irridium plugs gapped to a tight 40 thou. I also installed 500 pounds of copper all over the place to enhance grounding. I cleaned the mating surfaces of the igniter and it's mounting plate, although the igniter is currently sitting on two ring terminals - one as a spacer only - the other with a lead directly to a ground point on same sheet metal platform igniter is mounted to. The coils are about 25k miles old and I have an older set which I have swapped out with no change in symptoms. The coil contacts are clean and I use dielectric grease on the plug wire boots. Then I filled up with high octane gas and reset the ECU. With the original KS installed in factory location I still got the bogging issue. When I move the KS to my off-the-block location the bogging goes away and there's no audible knock with high octane gas. So, at least I know that high octane gas really has a higher octane. After all this I went to the junkyard to source an OEM connector and soldered it in. There is a short section where the sheilding is soldered together but the rest is completely sheilded - see note 1 below. I then went back to Autozone to buy a new knock sensor. I did this with the hope that I would get another knock sensor (not the one I returned) but I got the same one. I'll ask and see if I can try another next time I'm by there. I purchased a BAFX Bluetooth OBDII adapter (cool tool) and tried to read engine parameters with Torque Lite. All I got was engine temp and load so an actual analysis of engine parameters was a dead end there. (If I buy Torque PRO will it give more engine data or is my car just too old-school?) At this point I'm thoroughly stumped. I will check the main harness connections but I don't expect anything to come of it. I saw some other threads on USMB with good info but it seems the threads just died without any real resolution - here, here, and here. I can't imagine it is anything other than knock sensor related. My next steps are to check the car's recall history and see if I can get a hold of a second new knock sensor to test the infant mortality theory. If a third knock sensor makes no change perhaps the ECU is to blame. All pointers/tips/ideas are welcome and appreciated! I have a degree in Electrical Engineering and can surmise that the real need for the sheilding on the knock sensor wire is when ignition parts begin to leak their current i.e. a leaky spark plug cable that is jumping to metal on the engine somewhere rather than fully to the plug. I can't imagine that there is any other source of electrical interference in the engine bay that could induce electric current in the wire - mine was a short, unsheilded piece which, I believe, means there has to be a LOT of unshielded current flowing somewhere else before any induction will take place in the short unsheilded wire to the knock sensor. -
So I bought a 1996 Subaru Impreza Outback Wagon a few weeks ago. For the most part it runs fine but I've noticed a few problems and the check engine light is on as well. For one it is not getting the gas mileage it should it's getting about 21mpg combined and thats because i have the FWD fuse in...it gets worse mpg when it's in awd like a good subie should be. Second, the engine seems to lack a bit of power and thirdly, which may also tie in with the second, it has over-revved twice on me on steep hills. Fourth, the transmission shifts a little rough especially in the first 10 minutes of driving. And fifth, there is often times (but not always) a slight burning smell coming from the engine bay (but no smoke). I took it to autozone today and had them run the codes on the check engine light and it came back with 3:P0325--faulty knock sensor or circuit bank, P0106-MAP sensor performance (which says likely cause is vacuum leak), and P0301- cylinder 1 misfire detected (leaking or blocked injector). Anyone on this forum good at diagnosing over the computer based on observed issues and check engine codes pulling who can give me an idea as to what could be causing the listed problems and were to start looking at fixing them? -
My 2000 Subaru Impreza "L" 2.2L sedan threw a P0325 Knock Sensor code the other day, so I've decided to just replace the knock sensor itself. FWIW, this will be my *first* DIY car project beyond changing wiper blades or putting in a new relay. Anyway, looks like there are 3 options for buying a new Knock Sensor. Which one should I pursue? #1. El Cheapo - I'm seeing a no-name part on Amazon for $12 (nothing but 5-star ragings) - http://http://www.amazon.com/Sensor-Subaru-Forester-Impreza-Outback/dp/B0095S5I3W/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_3 #2. Mid-Range Price, "OE Spec" @ $63 - 2000 Subaru Impreza Knock Sensor | AutoPartsWarehouse #3. Bosch Knock Sensor @ $83 - 1999-2002 Subaru Impreza Knock Sensor - Engine Electrical - Bosch 99-02 Impreza Knock Sensor - 379-01047167 - PartsGeek -
Hey all, I'm working on getting my 1987 XT turbo back in proper working condition. The car has the flapper style MAF but a spider manifold was retrofitted by a previous owner, so there are all kinds of wiring oddities I am still trying to sort out as I get it closer to running properly. It was pointed out to me that the knock sensor is currently disconnected; I looked for a pigtail to plug into it but couldn't find one. I did, however, find two broken wires coming out of the harness that crosses over the block...I checked my spare EA82T manifold as well as my ER27 and it looked like the knock sensor plug was a single-wire setup. So, does anyone know what those two wires might be for, and if they are not the knock sensor plug I am looking for, where would I find it on the harness? I haven't been able to find anything. Pics below for clarification. and the plug that appears correct on my spare manifold...
