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Showing results for tags 'knuckle'.
Found 3 results
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I just wanted to prove I would not be defeated by a rust frozen longbolt. I used a cutoff wheel to slice the bolt between the knuckle and the control arms, and pressed out the bushings with the stub intact, an pressed in new bushings using a bearing press. I bought the whole knuckle/bearing/hub/backerplate from RA . This sat in a corner for months, just annoying me. I tackled it today freehand using a benchtop drillpress and 1/8 and 3/8 bits. I won't do it again. This part of this generation of Subarus stinks.
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Went to replace the right ball joint and the bolt moved about an 1/8th of an inche and the head snapped off.... I drilled into the bolt and went to drill the right size extractor into the bolt and the extractor snapped off inside the bolt. At this point I'm pretty ticked off, a simple job that turned into a big PITA. Thinking about just having a garage take it from here, I hate having other people touch my vehicles especially ones that charge out the butt but I've had enough and feels like I'm out of options. The car is due for inspection so it needs done ASAP, anyone local to Centre Hall,PA want to help in removing this? Lol.... Any advice for this situation? The extractor isn't easy to drill into like the bolt. ???? 2000 Outback Legacy. -
Hey guys, it's me again Road trip was successful from Alaska to Southern California. Since I bought her in April, I've already put on 15,000 miles, including the road trip, passing the 250k mark. I've got to tackle an issue I've had over the summer to finally quiet down my front end. In May, I replaced both front cv joints, getting a new but not OEM part from Carquest/Advance auto (https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-new-cv-axle-shaft-assembly-ncv66011/20870575-P?). When I took apart the knuckle assembly, I remember having to hammer out the original axle shaft to get it freed. When I put in the new parts, they fit in loosely, but I pulled them through using the axle nut as leverage. The car sounded great after that, the axles and hubs were quiet. After a while, both sides started humming (like white noise) on turns, growing subtly louder as days, weeks, and months passed. I finally replaced the bearings on the passenger side at the suggestion of this forum. It didn't stop the humming, so I got lazy and didn't replace the bearings on the driver side. I did make sure the axle nut was at the proper torque. I researched on here some more, and read that when replacing the CV axles, one should replace the spring washers and cone washers. I found those parts OEM on ebay and replaced them. No change in the hum during turns. Again using this forum, I found that overtightening, loosening, overtightening, loosening and overtightning once again on the axle nut is one way to make sure everything is snug; that the bearings are self-torque-something-or-other, so over tightening doesn't burden them. The humming lessened when I did this, but never went away completely. During the road trip, both axle nuts backed off a tad, and were stopped by the cotter pins. I did the overtightening/loosening/etc bit three times during that 5k miles, and finally the nut seems to stay in place. I am still getting hums/white noise on both, but it's a bit louder on the driver side. I checked all four wheels for play, and the driver side had probably 1/8 to 1/4 inch of play up/down and left/right. The other three are fine. I took apart the driver side assembly to the rotor, and when I checked the spindle, it's just loose. I can feel the play in the hub, and when I push it, it can easily be moved out of the knuckle. According to installation instructions, the axle shaft should be pressed into the hub using one of those do-dads. I hate replacing the bearings, but I will probably go ahead and do that on the driver side just for good measure - but I doubt that it'll solve the problem since it is still happening on the passenger side. www.youtube.com/watch?v=ckAnENBIwBo Any ideas on how to quiet down my front end? Thanks again for all your input!
