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Showing results for tags 'legacy GT'.
Found 12 results
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After it blowing up in the first week after buying it I finally got it fixed. now to take off the unequal length headers, and put a muffler back on
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Hi all, I am about to throw my SOHC 2.5/DOHC 2.5 frankenmotor into a '98 outback in pretty great (cosmetic) condition.... but it is 200,000 miles. I have gone through about 4 different 5mts in the past 6 years... All were cheap, but all were high mileage. I'm planning on purchasing a transmission that came out of the '05 Legacy GT wagons... Transmission code: TY757VBAAB... The gear ratios look to be a dream! With my wheel/tire choice, I can be at 3000 rpm and going 75 mph down the interstate and thus keep very good fuel economy. My problem though... In the picture of the transmission that I'm looking at, there doesn't appear to be a speedo-sensor installed... There is a plug circled in orange... Anybody have a guess if there will be a speedo gear in there when I take the plug out? If not, I'm assuming that I'd have to split the case halves to install? Just a matter of spending the time to do so? Unfortunately I'm not in a position to get this information as the transmission is coming from an online auction source. Supposed to be at about 50,000 miles. I guess I could go without a speedometer, and just memorize the tachometer-to-gear-ratio-to-wheel-size speeds off of a chart... I figure it'll last much longer behind a NA motor versus turbo... http://www.rallispec.com/downloads/Transmission ID Chart_Public.pdf http://www.gearhack.com/myink/ViewPage.php?file=docs/Subaru Transmission Chart Thanks all, Greg
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I recently picked up a 97 Legacy GT sedan to use as my work car. I purchased the car knowing the transmission was in bad shape and would need a rebuild or replacement. I removed the transmission this week and had plans to swap in a 98 Outback transmission. I inspected the ring and pinion on both and determined the transmission in the GT which the PO advised was a low mileage JDM swap had a 4.111 ratio. The Outback transmission had the correct 4.444 ratio that should be in all of the 4eat 97-98 2.5 powered cars. I have searched the forums and not been able to find decoding information for rear axle ratios. I was only able to find a small sticker on the back of the rear differential housing with "T2" on it. does this indicate the gear ratio? If so, what is the ratio? My theory is the PO swapped out the original transmission with a transmission with the wrong ratio and damaged the transmission due to the incorrect ratio. The engine and transmission that were in the GT when I bought it were JDM swap according to the PO. He did not have the paperwork on the JDM engine or transmission. Both looked really clean, however the transmission is noisy and the PO said it slips at highway speed. The fluid smells burnt. To reiterate, I need to know how to tell the rear differential ratio so I match up the front differential correctly when I put a transmission back in. I know it should be 4.444, but since other things have been swapped and there is no paperwork for those items, I don't feel comfortable assuming it is still the original rear. I am starting to have suspicions this car may have been a 5MT car to start with. I'm guessing that information would be in the VIN somewhere. Can someone tell me where that is in the VIN? -
Hello, I would like to get information from actual Legacy owners who have Bilstein B6 Struts & Shocks with either GT or Regular Legacy OEM springs. The questions I have are: 1. How does it ride? 2. Do you have any pictures of the car (before & after) installed. 3. Do these struts & shocks have any drawbacks? The KYB that are on it now are bouncy... I don't like them at all. Thank you -
Hello everyone! I am currently in the market for a new car. I have always admired Subaru's and the brand as a whole and have come to the conclusion that I would love to own one and join this great community. Right now the two Subaru models I'm most interested in are the 2006-2008 Subaru Forester XT and the 2006-2008 Subaru Legacy GT's. I think both cars look great and I'm sure either would make me extremely happy. However, I was wondering if any of you veterans who may have owned/been around these two models could give me any buying advice, and maybe give me you take on why you would take one over the other. Thanks for any help you can give me! -
I need some help with my car not starting, 2003 Legacy GT 2.5 So on my way to class this morning, my car started right up and took off with no problems. Just as I was about to get to campus, I lost power to the engine and my power steering cut out. I hopped out and pushed it to a side street before trying to start it back up. The radio, dash panel, and headlights still worked fine. I remembered that I had left the dome light on all night and thought that maybe it had drained the battery to the point where it had enough charge for on start, but that doesnt make sense as to why it would just start. I had my room mate pick me up and take me to O'Reilly's so I could get another battery, (When I had my oil changed a couple weeks ago, they said my battery was at the end of its life and I should look into getting a new one) If it didnt fix the problem I still needed a new battery anyways. After we threw the battery in and got everything hooked up, I tried starting it again, and it was the same issue. It would sound as if it were going to turn over like usual for a second, but then it went to a lighter, less guttural starting sound. I had half a tank of gas so its not that. Is it the alternator or would that effect the power to the whole car? I thought it could be the fuel filter needing to be replaced and the engine was just starved of fuel. Any ideas? -
I have a 1999 Legacy GT with the 2.5L EJ25D (dohc, phase 1) and I want to swap the heads. Now I know that I'll need new 2.2L heads with dual port so I don't need to change my exhaust, and I've read that you need a new timing belt. (Donor car will likely be 1995 Legacy 2.2L) Now here are the issues: - Do I need to use the 2.2 head cam sprockets or can I use the ones from the 2.5? - Besides the previous question, do I need anything else other than the 2.2 belt for the timing system? - The bolt pattern for the 2.5 manifold I have has bolts in a straight line, however the 2.2 heads I've seen (1995 and older) have diagonal bolts. - Can I use the 2.5l head bolts? I have a new set which I will use. 14mm 12 point. - Is the bolt pattern the same? My current one has 6 bolts, 3 on top behind the top cam, and 3 down low behind the bottom cam. - If the donor engine (2.2L) didn't have HG issues should I still get the heads planed by a machine shop? - Should I get new valves seats/guides/valves/springs or is that overdoing it? Pics are here (2.5l head, block and manifold): http://imgur.com/a/ExhsZ -
i have a 2006 Outback 2.5 XT and the turbo failed. I am looking for alternative options for replacement other than another stock turbo. Would prefer to spend less that what i was quoted for a new turbo from Subaru (approx. $1400 for parts and gaskets + install per my mechanic). While I wouldn't mind a perfomance upgrade I dont want my mechanic to have to do any fabrication or modification to install the new unit. I'm sure there is a great bolt on option, but I just dont know about it. We bought the Outback new, it is all stock, and has 130,000 miles on it. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks. -
I have a 1999 legacy 30 year limited edition gt sedan I need the plastic side skirt for the drivers side of the vehicle 1) I assume the 1995 thru 1999 model years exchange 2) do the wagon and sedan side skirts exchange with each other? 3) I believe the legacy gt and limited 30th anniversary are essentially the same Beyond that wish me luck finding one in Washington state junkyard. -
Hello fellow subaru owners, I recently got a 2001 Legacy GT for both my first subaru and my first car, it has been running great and I'm beyond happy with my purchase but last night while driving home on the freeway, my check engine light came on, everywhere I have looked said to check the fuel filler cap and/or blame it on an emissions control unit malfunction. How would you guys recommend I diagnose the issue without breaking the bank? Thank you all.
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I have noticed that every time I make a right turn the RPM seem to rise very quickly but not accelerate my car, before shifting into gear. I notice it most when I'm at a red light or approaching a red like and I need to make a right. Not sure if my transmission is going out. PLEASE HELP!! -
The question says it all. I was having alternator problems, so I got a new one. It simultaneously killed my battery, so I got a new one, too. But my e-brake and battery lights are on and blink simultaneously from time to time, even going off for periods of time. I'm a complete n00b to the forum, but even though I could find people with the light problem, nobody has had the issue after just replacing the alternator and battery as far as I could tell. I have no issues starting the car, dimming lights, etc, like I did when the alternator went bad before. Any hints or tips? Thanks guys!
