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Showing results for tags 'light'.
Found 9 results
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The video tells the story!!! The left turn signal switch will activate flashing in bulbs other than the turn signal bulb! https://youtube.com/shorts/AtWGv5Lt3ns?feature=share -
I did some searching and couldn't find much. This problem really has me scratching my head. 1982 GL Brat 200K plus on the body When the Left turn signal is on, it blinks normally as it should, however the "Stop Lamp" light will blink on the dash in time with the signal light. When the Left turn signal is on, and the Brake is applied: The LR taillight alternates between turning on/off the Lamp and the Reverse light individually, and the time of the signal light on the dash is about half the speed. It completely forgets to flash the indicator light instead. Having both Brake applied and turn signal on, the "Stop Lamp" light on the dash shuts off. The right side is unaffected and has no problems with the signal under braking or not. I have checked fuses, checked bulbs, and even swapped out the entire LR taillight assembly from another Brat; same result with the slow alternation of Brake light and Reverse light. And just FYI the reverse lights work normally when in reverse. Anybody out there have a similar problem? I'm thinking I have a bad ground or a short somewhere... -
On our 2005 Outback, our backup lights have been collecting water during rainstorms. Usually it appears as heavy condensation or fog, but after a big rain when I open the tailgate hatch and remove the backup light bulb, water runs out of the assembly. So far it has not shorted out the electrical outlet. I searched the forums but had a hard time finding exactly this problem on this car, so I just want to provide some info and couple helpful links for someone down the road. This is not a difficult repair with basic tools, but do allow at least a couple hours, more like 3 or 4 if you take your time. It took me a long time because once I got the tailgate bezel off (the part where the backup lights are), there was a lot of clean up to do - and of course you want to take your time on a careful reassembly. Body panel clip removal tools are very handy, but not essential. Harbor Freight has a cheap set. I was careful, but still managed to break one of the clip anchors and two bolts. This necessitated getting creative with a different screw and anchor, which took a while to figure out. Both of the breaks were caused by the nut/bolt being rusty, and not loosing. You will need some silicone sealant for the lights themselves, and 3M Strip-Calk, which is about $17. The Strip-Calk is specifically made for assembling body parts and light housings, etc. This was originally described to me as, "Dumdum comes in 12 inch long string sections (like the very thin red licorice)". I also used a lot of 409 and paper towels getting everything nice and clean. I have noticed in the past that most leaks are associated with a build up of dirt and grim in hidden or hard to reach areas. This first video covers removing the interior panels. You do not need to remove the long horizontal panel above the window. Also, on the rubbery weather striping, the small white clips popped right out, which is better than separating them from the strip as Tony does. I taped the strip back in place so it would not be damaged if the tailgate closed. You need to unclip one electrical connector, which on my car was kind of a pain. In this second video, Bruce removes all those interior panels, but also the tailgate outer bezel with the reverse light assemblies. If you only have time for one video, watch this one. I think Bruce misses a set of nuts on each side of the tailgate bezel, far left and right. They are covered by skinny black panels, which I only partially removed (I could not budge the visible clip, but the hidden ones came right off). If you have removed all the 8mm nuts inside the tailgate and the bezel does not budge, look for those other four nuts. Besides using the Strip-Calk on each side of the light foam and around all the bolt hole locations, I put a strip along the rubber edge below the window, wear the bezel makes contact. That is the first place for water to enter under the bezel recesses. I used the silicon to seal all around the light assembly, where the clear part meets the black assembly. That should about do it. Time for a beer. -
I noticed that the WRX have a nice fog light/hitch light. I was wondering, can you install that same light into a 2016 Subaru Impreza? I see that there is a square for a possible hitch? -
2012 Outback 2.5, approx: 75,000 miles. She was driving on the highway about 40 miles into a 65 mile trip. Check engine light and traction light came on, Cruise and Brake warning lamps started blinking. Apparently these lights normally come on all at the same time when the ECU sets a code of some sort. Seems excessive to me. Scanned it and got a P0456 - Evap System Very Small Leak. Checked the gas cap and it was on and tight. Removed it and checked the seal, and there was a fine silvery layer of what looked like lead all the way around the seal. In some spots it was fairly heavy. Wiped it off with a rag and some light degreaser, also wiped around the filler neck where the seal makes contact. Reset the code and drove it about 30 miles while watching the monitors with my scanner and got the evap monitor to set about 5 minutes after I got on the highway. Rescan showed no new codes. Going to keep an eye on it and see if it pops up again. This seems to be a common occurance with these newer cars, and it looks like most people just replace the gas cap. Wondering if simply cleaning the seal on the gas cap is something that could be done periodically to prevent this problem. -
I came into possession of a pair of Harbor Freight Specials, they were basically free to me, and the mount I made for them actually cost slightly more! I have them mounted, but need to ground them before I try wiring them up. The only place I can see is the solid metal member/bar going through the lower part of the front bumper. I had a chat with a Subie service rep, he suggested drilling into the back of the member to screw in a place for the ground. Back or bottom, a drill is not getting into there without removing the bumper. If I removed the radiator, I could get to the back of that member, but I'm looking for any viable alternatives. The member has some half inch holes already punched in the back, maybe I could file away at one of those and get some sort of mount for the ground? Here's pictures of the ongoing project, I had sealed the glass to the cheap rubber seals with some silicone adhesive. http://postimg.org/gallery/1kzfuzjc0/ -
I'm looking to replace my busted drivers side fog light. every outback I have found in the salvage yard has the drivers side glass busted on the fog light. I'm looking at Ebay and also at other Subaru products and considering trying to put something newer in the hole. I'm wondering if anybody has the dimentions for 2000 and newer lamp with and without the bracket to see if it is a close enough fit to make it work. -
I have a 1987 GL Coupe. It's a fun car, but, finding parts is hard. When I bought it, the passenger side tail light was cracked, which was okay. The driver's side tail light, as of about 2 hours ago, was broken because I was having too much fun on a snowy road and I may have bounced it off a tree. No real dent, didn't scratch the paint, just broke the signal lens off. (The actual brake light is fine, just the orange bit is missing). I'd really like to replace it, but, I can't find this easily. If someone knows where I can buy one or will sell me one, I'd be very happy! Is it possible to use the lights from a sedan instead? Even with a little modification? Or that definitely a no-go? -
Okay, so I'll try to break this down as detailed as possible. I have a '97 Impreza Outback Sport that has seen better days. It is beat to Hell, and the wiring/interior is all messed up (previous owner on all fronts). It still runs like a champ though. So the other day I accidentally left the door ajar, and the battery died. When I recharged it, the security light was blinking. I did some research, and I haven't been able to get it to shut off no matter what I do. I don't have a remote, so the auto-lock option is a no go. I found the button under the dash, but it did nothing. Upon further examination I found that there was a fuse missing at one wire junction. I put a new fuse in, but now when I hold the button and turn the key to ON, the locks go a couple times, but the light keeps blinking. I've tried disconnecting the battery, turning the key to ON and reconnecting the battery. Doesn't work. I've tried turning the key to ACC multiple times as well. Pretty much everything I've seen as a possibility, I've tried. Nothing works. I haven't fully charged the battery, and I can't drive the vehicle right now, so the blinking light keeps draining the battery. So now I'm wondering, should I try to buy a replacement remote, and hope that works? Or, can I just remove the entire keyless entry module somehow, and just disable the whole system. The thing already doesn't have power locks, so I wont necessarily miss it. Also, could maybe cutting the cord to the light stop it from drawing power? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
