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Found 4 results

  1. So. I bought a 2003 Outback LL Bean with 196k. The car is in reasonable shape and runs pretty well except a slight hesitation and sometimes it idles a little rough/vibrates at idle. The main issue I'm having is that it likes to kick out about 1-2 cups of coolant every time I top off the radiator, it doesn't seem to keep pushing out coolant after that but it will have a very slow bubbling from the overflow hose into the tank at idle. I tested with a combustion gas test kit and after 2-3 min of testing the fluid hadn't changed color in any noticeable way. I do not see any active coolant leaks, maybe there is some seeping slowly but not that I can find. The only time I see coolant actually leaking from the car is if I keep topping off the radiator without removing some from the overflow. Also no strange smoke on cold starts, no contamination in the oil or transmission fluid. Currently I can just top off the radiator every morning and drive it all day (about 100 miles a day of stop and go traffic) and it never overheats; although the primary radiator fan does run a bit more than I'm used to with my other car (95 ej22) but that's it. I have replaced the radiator cap with a "safety" style and an OEM cap is on order; but I haven't changed anything else. I'm thinking a coolant flush, new OEM radiator cap and thermostat would be a good start but I'm not sure if any of those (besides the cap) could cause this issue and I'm wondering if I'm seeing the start of a head gasket failure but not enough at idle to show up on a test? Maybe a partially clogged radiator? Any ideas or advice are welcome; especially if you have experience with similar issues with an ez30d. (aside from things like telling my my engine sucks or I should buy another car...lol)
  2. I just purchased a '02 Outback LL Bean ed. with the 3.0L; I know with a heavy SW like the Outback it tends to sway and dip pretty good with aggressive turns and big dips, but I'm relatively sure it's time for a KYB strut upgrade project... I've heard rumors that Forester struts of some year models will be a direct bolt-in with the '02 OB and provide a stiffer ride/slight lift; has anybody tried this? What model of Forester struts do I need to fit into my OB? On a related note, if I decided to install the OB struts, is the strut spacer a viable option for achieving a similar lift? Trying to make mine look a little sportier and give some extra clearance/stiffer and more controlled ride. Thanks! Any recommendations appreciated... PS Does anyone with the H6 have the whiney power steering pump? I saw the easy fix with the 4 cylinder (the housing adjustment) but the H6 has a different configuration... I've heard maybe the O-ring in the PS fluid line is going bad and sucking air???
  3. Drove this LL bean for a bit over 200,000 miles, gonna miss it. Body isn't worth it for me to put in a used motor, it needs brakes, struts, pretty much every bushing. Runs great though! Keep to someday fix? Sell outright with proper disclosure? Part it out? Gotta think on it.
  4. The title pretty much explains it. Hubby replaced the battery today and the o2 sensor (based on a code 51 reading). He then tried to reset the code with the engine running and found out that he wasn't supposed to do that. I don't know if that is the problem, but now the car will not start. I think it is "dead" and doesn't even try to turn over. I will correct that if he tells me differently. I need to be able to get to work and get my car tags, but cannot due to the check engine light. Help, please :-).
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