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Showing results for tags 'lock'.
Found 9 results
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So the latch on the hood of my obs will not lock. The safety lock still works and that keeps it from flying up while driving but definitively not comfortable driving with it sorta bouncing in the wind. It started by sometimes not locking when closing the hood. I’d just have to give it a couple tries. Then it started popping up if there was a lot of wind while I was driving. I’d quickly pull over and get it closed right. Now it will not lock at all. I’ve tried wd40 and adjusting the little rubber nubs. Neither made any difference. There’s video of what it does when I pull hood release lever. Looks like something isn’t right. Now sure what though. Thanks for any advice! IMG_6532.MOV -
The time has finally come for the Ignition Lock to get stuck in my Brat. It was already in a state where the key could be removed in any position and while driving around. Currently it is stuck in the Run position, and can start the car, but will not turn back to shut the car off. Is it possible to remove this lock cylinder? I have a parts GL Brat with a good lock cylinder in it to swap out if so. 1985 Brat Gl (tilt column steering)
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I need to replace the entire ignition lock assembly on our 2000 Legacy Outback due to a problem making electrical contact to start the vehicle. All of the Subaru specific videos I saw on YouTube only address replacing the cylinder. Does anyone know if there is any good tutorial out there and any specific tools I might need over the ordinary tool-box tools? Thank-You for your time and consideration!!! -
Hi all, I have a 2006 Subaru B9 Tribeca. It works pretty well for its age, but the most annoying part about the car is the fact that the keyless entry fob will only unlock the passenger and rear doors, and I must use the key to unlock the driver's side door. I've pored over the owners manual and haven't found anything-would anyone be able to point me in the right direction? Thanks -
Me and my girlfriend just recently purchased her a 1999 Subaru Legacy Brighton wagon and did all the first car maintainence on it. We figured out how to lock and unlock all the doors etc. but we have had a big issue with the hatch lock. Whenever we attempt to enter the key into the key slot, it only goes in about half way. From there I can lock and unlock the car with a bit of difficulty. The other day I attempted to lock it when the key broke in half... I was wondering if Either A. I was suppose to receive a trunk key, B. There is some sort of trick to unlocking and locking it, or C. The lock is faulty. Thanks so much -Craig -
Hi all, Re-entering the Subaru world after a long break (previously owned an '85 DL Wagon, '87 GL10 Wagon). I just bought a 1990 Legacy L Wagon for my son today and I need some advice. General Advice - best online parts market place? Specific to this car - The key won't unlock (or lock) the drivers side door. Works on passenger side. Is this about the cylinder or the key? The original key is broken but I still have the "stub" and I'm currently using a key that was copied from original some time ago. Is it worth it to bring "stub" with code to dealership to get new key cut? Thanks in advance for the help! - Drew -
All: Passenger door on my 1995 Legacy L wagon will not lock/unlock with the power locks. If you move the lock manually it works fine. Did a google search and it seems like it may be the actuator. Any easy fixes, or just replace? Any threads out there that show how to? Thanks much. Tom -
So I got one for y'all. Despite the on again, off again showers this Sunday, I was bound and determined to get a few issues resolved on my Baja before the cold weather really sets in here in Upstate NY. Been having an intermittent P0420 code being thrown, so I ordered a replacement downstream oxygen sensor. I figured I ought to take care of that driver's side valve cover gasket that'd been leaking, as well. Ordered a new PCV valve, too... may as well, right? Put it up on ramps and chocked the rear wheels. Pulled the old oxygen sensor and installed the new, without incident. Discovered the new PCV valve is entirely different than the old (plastic vs metal; nipples were the wrong size; threads were the wrong pitch), but luckily the old PCV valve wasn't bad off. Cleaned it up a bit and reinstalled it. I did manage to rotate the plug the PCV valve screws into, but I understand the plug is press fit into the case, so it is what it is. Pulled the battery and windshield washer fluid reservoir, then the driver's side valve cover and replaced its gasket. Buttoned it back up again neatly, making sure to torque the valve cover bolts down in the proper order. Since all of the above went pretty smoothly, I finished ahead of time. Seein' as it was raining, I figured I'd address one other minor problem I'd had... a leak resulting in a small amount of water in the front passenger foot well. I'd also heard that unmistakable sound of water hitting the blower motor fan blades, but only once. I'd had problems tracking down the leak, since I had to park slightly uphill and leave it under a fairly hard rain to replicate it. I just left the Baja up on the ramps, and slowly poured a bucket of water over the passenger side of the windshield. Didn't get the expected result of lots of water in the footwell, but it did persuade me to address it some other day. Now here's where my problem lies... when I fired the engine up for the first time after doing all the above, the ABS light on the dash stayed on. At no point in my earlier wrenching did I come near the ABS system. I went back over and visually checked the wiring for the wheel sensors, and the wiring harnesses. I can't imagine that my pouring water over the windshield would've come close to the wiring either, but I suppose anything's possible. Cleaned up a couple of grounds, the first being the one located right next to the ABS module itself. Verified that all of the fuses are not blown, both behind the dash and in the engine bay. None of that made a difference. Now, I imagine life would be easier if I could pull the ABS code and know what the system is complaining about. Problem is... that little trick of finding the six port plug under the dash (usually black) and grounding out port #6 using the accompanying black wires located off the same harness as the plug doesn't work. There is no wire attached to that port #6, which makes grounding it out really really difficult . Obviously, an OBD-2 scanner is not going to pull an ABS code. I heard about FreeSSM, but it appears that it'll only talk to the ECU & TCM, but not the ABS system. Can't tell if the ABS system is working or not... hasn't rained since, and I don't have a good dirt/gravel road for miles around. Cruise control works perfectly fine. Is there any way for a shade tree mechanic to pull that ABS code? I'd have some difficulty convincing the wife I need to buy a Subaru Select Monitor device ($1,200 used off eBay). With my luck, I'd never have another ABS code thrown. I'd also love to stay away from the dealership if I don't have to... sure, $40-$50 to have the code pulled ain't horrible, but if it's something as stupid as a "Power Supply Voltage Too Low" (maybe when I was reconnecting the battery... a long shot, but with my luck...) then I'm going to be cursing. -
So my fiancée has been driving my '94 GT lately... and yesterday she came out of work to find that someone had hit the back of it in the parking lot. They didn't leave a note, and while the business has security cameras, they don't cover that part of the parking lot. We filed a police report, but they can't do anything without any leads... So we're on our own. It must have been a truck or SUV, as the impact missed the bumper, but pushed in the metal in the middle of the hatch just to the right of the license plate. The glass didn't break, but it appears to have pulled back the bottom part of the window seal. The part where the lock is at is cleary pushed in, maybe an inch and a half or so. (I would post a photo, but the forum gallery is being reworked...) The biggest problem for now is that the hatch no longer opens. When you pull up on it, it doesn't feel like it is binding... so I think that the problem is with the lock mechanism being unable to release now that it is bent up. Does anyone know if the plastic cover on the interior of the hatch can be removed while the hatch door is closed? It's already sprung a bit from the accident, but I'm not entirely sure how it comes off... Thanks.
