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Showing results for tags 'motor'.
Found 9 results
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We own a 2003 Subaru Forester XS 2.5L, VIN 6, 6th digit. Unfortunately, the engine heads and block cracked. We are searching for another 2.5L engine that would work. Main Question: What years/models come with a compatible engine for the 2003 Forester? For example, would a 2.5L from a 1999 Legacy work? Thank you in advance. -
My mom passed down her 91 Legacy for my son's to drive. She originally bought it when it was brand new. She said one day the vent would not put out head or cold on any setting. I was sure the it was the blower motor so i bought a new one. We took out the old one and for the heck of it tested it and it worked. So now I'm stumped. Will check the fuses again, but think we covered that. The guages light up when you hit the A/C or Heat, but it just kinda makes a sad whine from inside the dash and then nothing...no air. -
I have a 1998 legacy brighton with a bad 2.2l motor and manual trans. I also have a 1998 legacy gt that has been wrecked with a rebuilt 2.5l and manual trans I would like to know what kind of problems I might have if I put the 2.5l in place of the 2.2l Some of my concerns are first the wiring for the motor, will it match, also brain, can i just unplug one an change the other on in, and also exhaust headers are they the same or would I need to change them. What things would need changed and how much of a job is this. Is this something I should consider as i can by 2.2l engines cheaper than the 2.5l so should I just go that route. any one that has done this or knows anything that could help me is invited to do so. thanks jbowone -
does anyone know what other year motor can drop into a 2006 Forrester x. my head gaskets are going bad at 242000 miles and I am looking for another motor from a wreck to rebuild and just be able to drop into the 06 when complete. I just need to know what other years have compatibility with the least headaches
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I want to drop a fresh rebiuld into my Wagon befor winter kicks in. One way or another it will happen. But i was wondering if any of you guys have knowledge or experienced service from Enginehaus ?? Or Mark the guru?? A long block from enginehaus is 1695, and that is with shaved heads, bored cylynders, ect.. While Markthegurus long block is OEM spec and is 2000.. I want the motor to last as long as possible, of course a lot if that is up to me and maintainng it.. But my question is.. What would you do??
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looking to source a remanufactured ea81, just the short block. Or a good working one that could maybe use a rebuild. Anyone in Seattle area have leads? Also curious if anyone has delt with engineHaus in Gig Harbor?? Thanks for any help!
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I see talk of EA this and EJ that. I'm assuming these are the Trans or Engine types of the particular vehicles in discussion. Does anyone have a complete list with matching years and models (or at least OEM installation)? What is under my stock 2008 Legacy Outback 2.5i 5MT? My transmission is labeled: TY758VCABA-GA (which is about the only ID I could find on it.) -
I was tuning up my 95 Legacy yesterday with cleaning/testing throttle body & Position Sensor, PCV, MAF, etc. Started looking for my EGR valve to take a whack at but could not find it. Checked the Chiltons manual & tells/shows where it "should" be also says that testing the EGR is done by OnBoardDiagnostics & I have OBDII so wouldnt it be somewhere Checked online for pictures and where the EGR Pipe should be is crimped off. What is the meaning of this? Im boggled. -
Is seems I'll never run out of problems to ask you guys about... So it has been rather hard to start now that it's getting cold here in VA, I've actually had to use starting fluid a number of times. But yesterday I was running errands all day and while it ran fine most of the day, by the time it got dark the engine started stumbling at low rpms... sometimes I could have the pedal floored with no response and was forced to downshift...progressively got worse... and today, even though it was warmed up, it stalled at a stop sign, couldn't get it into gear for like 5 minutes without stalling. It idled at like 500 rpms (usually its between 700-1000). It would rev better in neutral than when driving (still crappy though). I ended up just coating the air filter in starting fluid and I got home just fine, as much as i hate resorting to starting fluid. Oil is slightly low, but not to where it should hamper performance. Coolant is fine and relatively young. Spark plugs were replaced last night, didn't help. My small oil leak has been getting worse, mostly from the oil pan gasket and valve cover gaskets which I will replace today, a little bit seems to come from the sender, which was recently replaced so I'm hesitant to replace it again. Maybe it just needs some teflon. Not sure if this increased oil leakage could have anything to do with it running like crap... Any suggestions?
