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Found 7 results

  1. So i lost my spare key the other day, it was the last one i had left and was out in the woods so we had some mcgyvering to. Got it hot wired under the hood but the steering wheel lock still works so straight was our only option. We tear the steering column apart (its a gambler style car not worried about breaking things) to get the key cylinder out, that was easy, got the car started, great, got home. Next day went to start it, no choke on it cuz of weber carb, so i was warming it up.... it died, went to start up again dash light and heater/radio all the auxiliaries came on turned it over and they all faded out. no power nothing, checked battery cables just fine, fuseable links on coil are fine (maybe the hotwiring fubard it). Heres what strange to me while trying to figure out wtf is goin on we hotwired it under the hood again and it starts up runs drives, power to everything dash/radio/etc. turned it off, no power to anything with key switch still. Checked all fuses checked voltage of harness under steering wheel, 12v, I am out of ideas, and leads? is there are relay or something im missing that went out? please heeeeeelp meeeeeh. Thanks!
  2. Hi oldgens I was at the MOT today, and besides broken light bulbs and a hole in the exhaust, the only serious fault found on the car was that my rear brakes are almost non-existant. I have old drums but new shoes. Have adjusted the shoe adjuster thing so I just could get the drums on again. The adjustment brackets are not the kind I see spoken of here in the forum, that can be tightened from the out side, they have to be adjusted before assembling the drums. The pedal feels just as it should, so I cant understand whats the problem, any advice would be greatly appreciated!
  3. Vehicle is a 2002 Subaru Legacy Wagon 2.5 SOHC 5 speed. 220,000 miles. Problem would only occur after 30+ minutes of driving on a hot day, as of last week. Now it occurs as soon as engine is warmed up. Plugs, wires, fuel filter, and a million other things have all been replaced in the past couple thousand miles. Once the car warms up, I'm getting a terribly low idle and hesitation/jolting so bad it isn't even road worthy. It's so bad that I can barely get it into 1st gear sometimes. The car won't cut out, but seems pretty close to it most of the time. At idle, it revs up just fine. Could this be a TPS issue? Injectors? Fuel pressure? I don't see why it would only do this once fully warmed, it runs fine (seems a little slower than usual) until it warms up. There is no check engine light. In the past, it threw a code for IAC valve, but it went away once I cleaned it. Thanks guys.
  4. Hey, I'd really appreciate if anyone could help me understand what's going on with my 1996 Subaru Sportswagon (boxer 2.0L)? Essentially, it starts perfectly and will run perfectly while cold although as soon as it starts getting warm, the engine loses its power and the car idles really rough. This will last until the engine is properly warm. A few times I've been driving and it's been so bad before that the car has actually stalled and won't start again for about 10-20 seconds. I've asked a few people and have had a range of answers like "ignition, exhaust flow sensor, coolant temperature sensor, bad plugs/leads, choke flooding the engine, wrong fuel-air mixture. While it could be one or a couple of those things, I'd love to know why the car is having trouble during the engine warming process and at no other time. If someone could give me a hand it'd be much appreciated! Cheers, Bobby
  5. Good Day Everyone, I recently joined this site, I have visited before and had a lot of help when working on my subaru. I own a subaru impreza TS 1.6l non turbo, automatic. Its not that fast! but it is used as a family car and it does the job. Recently however I noticed the engine was losing power - slow uphill and acceleration. So i decided a tune-up was in order. I changed the oil, oil filter, spark plugs, transmission fluid, air filter. This did NOT improve or solve the performance issue. After a while the check engine light came on. I normally work on the car myself but I do not own a diagnostic scanner so I took the car to a mechanic. The mechanic told me the O2 sensor was faulty so I had it replaced. The check engine light came off but came back on after 2 days. Replacing the O2 sensor did not solve the problem, the car still struggles to get up hills and accelerates very very slowly. A few weeks after I took the car to another mechanic, he scanned the car and told me to replace the spark plugs and wires. I did, and the problem still was not solved. Tired of the problem, I took steps to fix the problem myself, I cleaned the throttle body, had the injectors cleaned and replaced the fuel filter, the problem still was not resolved. So in a nut shell - Car engine - lazy Replaced- engine oil oil filter spark plugs spark plug wires o2 sensor air filter fuel filter transmission fluid cleaned throttle body So now i'm here, asking- please can someone help!!??
  6. I have been having loads of problems with my 1990 Subaru Legacy. First running rough, idle was bad, using lots of fuel and no power or get and go. So far have replaced plugs, wires, O2 sensor, run seafoam through( no smoke), pcv valve, some ignition computer part. So checked for codes it through 11,13,14,15,16,,17,23,24 and 49. Also the exhaust broken has broken off due to motor mount missing that I was unaware of and engine rattling bad. Please help.
  7. I HAVE A 1998 LEGACY OUTBACK, 2.5 TWIN CAM. PROBLEM IS THAT IT DOESNT HAVE A LOT OF POWER, ESPECIALLY UP HILLS. IT HAS NEW TIMING BELT, WATER PUMP, CAM AND CRANCK SEALS, PLUGS, WIRES , FUEL PUMP, FUEL FILTER, CRANK SENSOR. TIMING , WHEN BELT AND SEALS REPLACED SET NO POWER. TIMING COVER REMOVED AGAIN, TIMING BELT,OK. TIMING CHECKED AGAIN ABOUT 18% OUT, CHECKED BY TWO REPUTABLE MECHANICS. MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR OK. THEY CHECKED CATALYTIC CONVERTOR, NOT PLUGGED. NO CODES DETECTED. DONT KNOW WHAT ELSE TO DO, ANYONE EVER HAD THIS PROBLEM BESIDES ME? ANY INFORMATION WOULD BE VERY HELPFUL. THANK YOU !
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