Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'oil leak'.
Found 21 results
-
It’s kind of crazy to think how long I’ve been in the Subaru game and yet I’ve never replaced a 2.5 head gasket! I only want to deal with this repair once, hence this thread: I was under my wife’s 1999 Forester for an oil change over the weekend and noticed the bottom of the driver’s side of the engine was COVERED with engine oil. I had long suspected that it was the cam seal leaking, but the volume of oil and the area it covered has been slowly growing over the last few oil changes. A little research revealed that the EJ253 in this Forester likes to pop its head gasket and then leaks oil externally, which correlates with what I’m seeing. We lose about 1-2 quarts of oil between changes (I top it up often) but the engine doesn’t appear to burn any oil (no smoke out the tailpipe, hot or cold). The head gaskets were originally replaced at 78k miles (w/ P/N 11044AA633 head gaskets) and the engine now has about 205k miles on it now. We’re past due for a timing belt as well, so here is the list of parts that we’ve got so far: Timing Belt Parts: Timing belt Tensioner/idlers Crank pulley bolt Water pump & gasket Thermostat & gasket Cam seals F/R Crank seals A/C idler pulley Oil pump reseal/O-ring kit I’ve been doing a bunch of research on what else I should touch “while I’m in there.” In past posts @GeneralDisorder has suggested changing out the piston rings, installing knurled pistons and upgrading to a 10 mm oil pump. I will have the heads milled (if still in spec) but what else should I consider? Valvetrain work? Is there anything I can do to help oil drain back to keep the pistons from getting clogged? Head Gasket Parts: 770 head gaskets Exhaust manifold gaskets Intake manifold gaskets Valve cover gaskets Valve seals (int. & exh.) (I’ve read that the SOHC engines have a tendency to drop exhaust valve guides and that these should be knurled to keep them from dropping?) Sparkplug tube seals Valve cover bolt grommets Misc. Parts: Spark plugs Spark plug wires 10mm oil pump PCV valve Knock Sensor (original is cracked) Battery cables/tie down/j-bolts (battery terminals/tie down are fuzzy and have read this is a potential cause of driver’s side gasket failures) So, flame suit on, please let me know what you think of my parts list! Are there obvious omissions? Are there parts I could swap in for little expense that will help power/longevity (such as uprated camshafts, pistons, etc.?) Note, this isn’t a performance build, so I’m not thinking about forged, high-compression pistons or anything, but if there is an OEM piston that I could swap in that would provide a slight performance advantage, I would be interested in something like that, or Delta Cams, etc. How far away from a Frakenmotor would I be? Would an STI oil pan be something to install? -
I'm looking at this oil leak I have. Nothing major but it leaves a spot on the driveway and cruds up my engine bay (rust protection right?). The leak seems to be coming from behind the crank pulley and dripping down the front. It does leave some residue on the underside of the air filter housing. Anyone have any tips, tricks, videos, diagrams or such before I dive into this? -
Just got word back from the dealer. I’ve got a bad catalytic converter, possibly bad rear o2, and am leaking oil from cam carrier, oil pump, and valve cover (just replaced valve covers, not sure what I did wrong). Car is worth around $5000, has newish (30k) head gaskets and clutch. 100% rust free which is unheard of in Michigan, and is already lifted. Dealer wants $4700ish, which isn’t gonna happen. My main issue was getting very low mileage, I can live with the car eating some oil. Right now I’m thinking I’ll get a tsudo hi flow cat and an o2 sensor and o2 sensor fooler since the high flow will trip the p0420. This should clear out the MPG issue. It doesn’t seem like fixing those leak points is too hard (I’ve done clutch work and a lot of stuff on my brat, I’m comfortable doing anything besides engine/trans internals). Do you guys think it’s worth it? My only real hesitation is the engine has a nasty piston slap. Thanks, CL
-
Hi, I have a 1990 Subaru Legacy L Sedan with the stock engine (2.2L EJ22/E), and occasionally, thin white smoke will seep out of the passenger side of the hood. I'm also leaking oil (but who isn't?), and I think oil is leaking onto the exhaust header and burning off. I don't really have any clue where the leak is actually coming from, though. I've already replaced the valve cover gaskets, and that didn't really do anything. I've kept her filled up with oil, so the engine still runs fine, but I would some day like to actually have it fixed. -
Hi all. I have a 2000 Outback Limited, EJ25 SOHC. It just came to me with 155,000 mi and no idea if/when the timing belt has been done. It also need to remove the rocker covers and replace those seals, as I am getting oil in the spark plug holes. The question is can both the timing belt and rocker covers be done in the car? I have done the same jobs to a 1996 DOHC Outback but that time I already had the engine out, so it was simple. This time I have no other reason to remove the engine, but I can if it makes more sense. The potential benefit of pulling it is, that I can then check the rear seal and the oil separator. But again I have no evidence of a problem there. Any advice is welcome. -
Hello everybody! Just a little background on my situation. I stumbled across a 1990 legacy for 600 bucks. Guy said he put in new tranny and had the engine out to replace seals and gaskets. Well 380 miles into my trip I stop and find I've lost 3 quarts of oil. Holy cow! Get home and see the oil pan and passenger side of engine has a thick coat of oil along withe a few drips of oIL on the underside of the timing belt cover. What are your thoughts on what might be my issue? M valve cover gaskets are clean and I can see that they are new. -
I'm not very familiar with cars so I was looking for help on identifying an engine part. I was driving this afternoon and saw some smoke coming out of my hood so I opened the hood and saw a fluid leak near the bottom of the engine. It looks like a part tore and something came leaking out. It's near the passenger side towards the back of the engine. Can you help me ID it?
-
Hello everyone I'm new to the forum, also new to the Subaru owner ship. I recently bought a 1995 Subaru impreza 2.2L, automatic with Ej22 engine, and 4dr. I got it really cheap and it was running fine and smooth. Recently it started leaking oil and it's dripping on the down pipe I think, and also power steering is leaking. But the thing is I don't know where the leak is coming from. If any of you ever had this problem please help me out narrowing it down so I know what to fix, and buy. I tried putting all info I could think of, and sorry if this had been asked before. Thank you for reading and hope I can get some help and guidance thank you. -
I HAVE A 92 LOYALE, EARLIER THIS SUMMER MY ALTRINATOR WAS ON IT'S WAY OUT, THERE WASN'T ENOUGH POWER TO POWER THE INJECTORS I BELIEVE SO I COULD ONLY DRIVE AROUND REALLY SLOW ANY TIME I GAVE IT GAS IT WOULD LURCH, WELL AFTER DRIVING ABOUT 50KM THAT DAY WHEN I STOPPED DRIVING I NOTICED THE CAR WAS SMOKING LOTS! WELL NOW OIL LEAK OUT OF EVERY WHERE, LIKE IT BUILT UP PRESSURE AND BLEW SEALS, OR IS STILL BEING PRESSURIZED SOME WHERE. PERHAPS PVC VALVE? ALSO I DEVELOPED A EXTERNAL HEAD GASKET LEAK WHICH MAKES ME WONDER IF THERE WASN'T ENOUGH POWER AT THE TIME TO POWER THE FAN. IF ANY ONE HAS ADVICE, OR SIMILAR STORIES PLEASE SHARE THEM, I PLAN TO PULL THE ENGINE AND DO THE WORK, BUT I WANT TO THROW OUT THE MESSAGE FIRST. I LOVE THE CAR, BUT IT'S BEEN A HEAD ACHE TO BE HONEST. -
We have a strong oil smell in the passenger compartment and our gas station mechanic said it was leaking oil out of the oil cooler line, which is rusted. Can these parts be purchased at a general automotive chain? Who should I have do this repair? Or do I have to suck it up and go to the Subaru Dealer?
-
I HAVE A 92 LOYALE, EARLIER THIS SUMMER MY ALTRINATOR WAS ON IT'S WAY OUT, THERE WASN'T ENOUGH POWER TO POWER THE INJECTORS I BELIEVE SO I COULD ONLY DRIVE AROUND REALLY SLOW ANY TIME I GAVE IT GAS IT WOULD LURCH, WELL AFTER DRIVING ABOUT 50KM THAT DAY WHEN I STOPPED DRIVING I NOTICED THE CAR WAS SMOKING LOTS! WELL NOW OIL LEAK OUT OF EVERY WHERE, LIKE IT BUILT UP PRESSURE AND BLEW SEALS, OR IS STILL BEING PRESSURIZED SOME WHERE. PERHAPS PVC VALVE? ALSO I DEVELOPED A EXTERNAL HEAD GASKET LEAK WHICH MAKES ME WONDER IF THERE WASN'T ENOUGH POWER AT THE TIME TO POWER THE FAN, I'VE CHECKED COMPRESSION ONE READS A BIT LOWER THAN THE OTHERS, IF I REMEMBER THEY WERE AROUND 175-180.......NO SURE IF THOSE NUMBERS ARE CORRECT. WEIRD THING IS I CAN DRIVE 400KM AND LOSE THE SAME AMMOUNT OF IIL IF I DRIVE 40KM IN SHORT TRIPS TO TOWN AND BACK. IF ANY ONE HAS ADVICE, OR SIMILAR STORIES PLEASE SHARE THEM, I PLAN TO PULL THE ENGINE AND DO THE WORK, BUT I WANT TO THROW OUT THE MESSAGE FIRST. I LOVE THE CAR, BUT IT'S BEEN A HEAD ACHE TO BE HONEST.
-
I have recently pulled a EJ22 engine to swap into a 94 Legacy that threw the rod. I have removed EJ22 engines a few times on other 2.2L Subies, done timing belts, and it is a fairly simple process. My question is the engine I've found has several oil leaks which I would like to clear up before installing. One of the confusing ones is the Camshaft o-ring replacement. On the back of the engine (passengers side?) it seems like the oil is weeping out of the cover which is bolted down on the head. I understand there is an o-ring in here as well as one on the opposite head in front. Are these o-rings easy to replace and can I get some advise or a link into a string that goes over this? I can't find this process discussed in any depth within the forum. -
Hello! I am looking for some guidance as to the best way to off-load my Outback. General Info: -1998 Subaru Legacy Outback Wagon, Limited Edition -200,000+ Miles. -Passed inspection in April, new tires. -Issue: runs well for its age but has a BIG oil leak. Rear main seal I think. Leaves a 3-4" oil spot every time it's driven. We have to park it over a pile of kitty litter. Too expensive compared to the value of the car to fix ($1,000.+). Mechanic says engine is in good shape despite the leak(s). -We're in New England, strong subaru market. My options: - Junk it for parts. Mechanic said $300. - Trade into a place like Carmax - Be patient and look for a buyer capable of doing the work themselves. Before I spend lots of time researching and running it all over town to get estimates and such, I figured I would seek some advice. Thank you so much! -
Hey folks Per my last post on another thread, I thought my recent head gasket job with all the various seals and gaskets got messed up as I have a good leak dribbling away...I thought rear main was botched...when I took the intake manifold off I saw this...could it be that simple? If so, what is that sensor....looks like it even leaking up thru plastic electrical connection....similar to the oil sensor issue common on these ...anyone with any ideas or experience?
-
Recently I noticed a burning oil smell when parking our 2003 VDC 3.0L H6 after a drive, despite not seeing evidence on the floor of my garage of any serious leak. Brought the car into our very good independent garage and they found (and I also saw) an oil leak, which they said was coming from the Valve Cover Gasket and the Front Timing Cover Gasket. Alldata Repair S3000 lists the Valve Cover Gasket as 2.7 hours labor for one bank, 3.5 hours to replace both banks, with parts coming in at $29.95 for the Right, and $29.95 for the left, and $9.95 for the inner. Alldata Repair S3000 lists the Timing Cover Gasket Replace Outer Cover as 2.7 hours labor and $375.30 total. He quoted $700 total for the full job. And they are usually the best guys in both quality and price not just in town but over a dozen nearby towns. Does this sound right? Any general recommendations for this repair? I didn't have time to do it that day. The tech must have tightened up the gasket, because the leak has been very slow. Counted not more than 5 drops hitting the floor of the garage in a 24 hour period, but no doubt you can't leave a repair like this hanging or you're asking for trouble so I plan to do it this week. I figured as long as we're in there, we'll have easy access to the spark plugs and since the car is at 118,500 miles, just 1500 miles shy of the 120K inspection when sparks should be changed, might not be a bad time to change them. Any recommendations for good spark plugs?- 9 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- gaskets
- valve cover gasket
- (and 3 more)
-
I can't locate the oil leak. It runs down the sides of the filter. Doesn't matter what type or brand or how tight. Very annoying as it drips directly on the exhaust! Help. -
2003 VDC Outback 3.0L H6. Replaced the Harmonic Balander (Crankshaft Pulley) a few months back. Then earlier this week, after hearing a bit of a squeal from the Idler Pulley and Belt Tensioner, replaced the Drive Belt, Idler Pulley and Belt Tensioner Assembly for the peace of mind (that was recommended by members here after the Harmonic Balancer/Crankshaft Pulley went). Based on what I've read and seen, if these parts haven't been replaced on your Subaru and you've driven over 90K miles, I'd replace them (and you can keep the originals as spares if you like). Ours lasted 113K miles. I checked out the old pulleys. Whatever grease was originally in the pulleys, it was just dry powder by now. Our good indie mechanic was able to do it all parts and labor for replacing the Idler Pulley, Tensioner Assembly and Drive Belt for $230. It got rid of background noise and the squeal. Fast Forward a few days to today... Barely drove the car (not more than about 25 miles) when the VDC Light lit up on the dashboard (indicating VDC is now off), followed by the Check Engine light minutes later. Luckily the Check Engine Light went on just as I pulled up to my driveway. Immediately cut the engine and smelled a bit of oil burning. Looked under car and noticed leaking oil. What could have caused this? I'm having the car towed back to the same garage first thing tomorrow (Saturday) morning.
- 5 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Idler Pulley
- Tensioner Assembly
- (and 3 more)
-
Hi all. I am considering buying an outback. sixth digit in VIN is 6. Owner says it's a 99' with 170,000 miles. He had an oil leak present, then he overheated it. Now the oil leak is alot worse. My guess is the heads are warped. What's your thought's? He said a shop told him it would be a grand to fix? Couple (well lots) of questions but Ill try to keep it slow. Is it worth putting new heads on the original motor with 170k on it? Or is this type of motor a boat anchor with this many miles? Can the heads be swapped with the engine in the car? How hard is it to swap a 2.5 motor, with no lift? -
Hello there. Hopefully someone out here can help me diagnose a severe oil leak. Oil is pouring out of the car when running near the valve cover gasket and the cover for the timing belt on the passenger side/front of motor. What I am trying to figure out before having it repaired, iWhat s the likeyhood it can be a blown head gasket? There is no antifreeze present and the car is not over heating. -
Help, when I have the heat on in my car, and I come to a stop, the car smells like burnt oil in the cabin. A friend told me it might be the head gasket as subarus have this problem... 130k automatic turbo... ANY THOUGHTS OR EXPERIENCES RELATED TO THIS WOULD BE APPRECIATED!- 6 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Head gasket
- oil leak
- (and 2 more)
-
Hey all, first time using this forum. I have a 2005 Legacy L, 150K with various problems, but runs great. There is a minor oily fluid leak dripping from the jack-up plate behind the oil tank. I took a close look and noticed that the steering boots are broken which is right above the jack-up plate. Could this have anything to do with the leak? I have a feeling you are going to tell me I have to get the whole rack replaced. It has been slowly leaking (one drip per day) for 6 months and I haven't noticed any drop in oil or PS fluid levels and the car runs fine. One of the axle boots is also broken. I also have a gas smell on the interior when I turn the heat on and the heat is super slow to get started. AC is also broken and a recharge didn't work. Not too concerned about these though. I love my car and would appreciate all helpful positive responses.
