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Showing results for tags 'oil pump'.
Found 12 results
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Hi folks, So I'm planning a road trip in my BRAT in a few weeks, and decided to do a little preventative maintenance. Had a messy oil leak and a some ticking, so I decided to replace seals and the paper gasket on the oil pump. I think we all know what happens when you remove an oil pump on these engines... Now I'm in the market for a new (I wish) or used pump. I've found two new and one used one in Greece (car.gr), 12 new in Columbia (mercadolibre.com.co) and one new one in Mexico. There are a couple of shady looking websites (sabrmarket.xyz; nsbamall.xyz) that claim to have them new, but don't respond to emails. I've tried just about every salvage yard I can find in the PNW and I'm coming up blank... Does anyone have a specific salvage yard that they know has one? Or maybe you'd be willing to part with one yourself? It's been three weeks of scouring the internet and I've exhausted every option I can think of. Next step is to see if a skilled machinist/welder friend of mine can weld it back together and then mill off the weld material. TL;DR: If anyone has an EA81 oil pump available (in any condition other than cracked) I would pay handsomely for it.
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I have an 86 BRAT that needs a new oil pump, now I have learned that these pumps are ridiculously hard to get these days. For now I am getting an original replacement pump, however odds are I will have to replace it again at some point in time. Lots of you will probably say to just engine swap an EJ in, but I want to keep this vehicle as stock as possible. So here is the question, does anyone know if it is possible to get an adapter for these pumps? You can get an adapter to relocate the filter, so I'm wondering if there is an adapter to get this engine to accept a different, aftermarket oil pump? Thanks in advance, long live the EA engines :).
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My oil pump shattered and it's stuck in the engine. Here's the back story: I was replacing the oil pump in my 85 Brat when, while removing the old one from the engine, I turn around for a second and my dumb friend decides to use a mallet to get it out. The oil pumps are know to shatter and naturally it did. Unfortunately the worse case scenario came true and part of it is stuck in the engine still. It will spin but refuses to come out. I've tried everything. I even drilled a screw in it so I had something to pull. Any suggestions?? Pics attached https://ibb.co/foXbjx https://ibb.co/hbnnrc https://ibb.co/dMoABc https://ibb.co/mPqe4x
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I had my oil pump fail on my 1987 ea82. The belt pulley broke off the shaft. It seems the rotor seized in the block (see pictures) and I am not sure what could have happened or if metal flakes got in between the rotor and block because it looks like the rotor had been scraping as you can see in pictures. why would the rotor go rogue and do this damage? also is that opening in the middle supposed to be misaligned? it almost looks cracked?! I have just recently purchased this vehicle and have had zero issues or TOD until the pump failed after I put roughly 700 miles in. I am a little scared to try and remove the rotor using some force because I don't want to damage the block. Advice or ideas?
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I'm sure this has been asked before. What Sealants are to be used on these applications? Oil Pump: Oil Pan: Rocker Covers (I know there is a seal that is there already, but from what I have seen "on the net" is it still doesn't hurt to run a bead around the Cover Lid Lip) true or false, if so what kind: Transmission Pan: Thanks -
Hello, I was talking with a reputable engine builder about my engine EJ25. He told to to look at my Oil Pump housing number in the upper left corner. If it is a 7 or 9 he recommends getting a better pump. Either the 11mm or 12mm pumps. Has anyone ever heard of this? I'm going to talk with him today in detail to see what happens to these pumps.
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Hello! I have oil leaking from front of engine and would like to remove my oil pump to check for pump and seal failures. I am wondering if anyone has had experience performing this without removing the engine or if this would even be possible. I would love to hear any advice/steps involved in the process if so. I drive a 99 Subaru legacy outback Wagon with the ej25 engine. To me it looks like it can be done, but I wanted to get an experienced second (or more) opinion before diving in. Thanks in advance! -
I've broken the outer most bolt for an EA82 oil pump. This is the bolt closest to the ear of the mickey mouse seal. Whats the likelihood of an oil leak if I finish the re-seal and t-belts? The other 4 bolts are fine and torqued down. I've tried drilling the bolt out because it broke flush to the engine, but I've caught it out of center and I'm losing hope that I'll be able to drill it clean and tap a new thread. If you guys recommend fixing the hole and re-tapping it what kind of drill bits would you recommend? I was doing this job in hopes of ridding the engine of the lifter tick, but I'm worried I've just made the problem worse. Any and all advice appreciated, thanks.
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Help request: I'm trying to keep my one and only car, 1984 Subaru GL wagon (manual, dual 4wd, 1.8L) going. Disclaimer: I am not a mechanic, albeit reasonably handy with mechanical things. It has problems going uphill, sometimes even in 1st gear, especially when it's cold and snowy. I suspected the vacuum advance. Took it to local repair place to have vacuum advance checked and replaced if needed. They charged me lots of money, replaced spark plugs and wires, and did nothing about vacuum advance. Upon requesting info about why they had not done the requested repair, I was told that the vacuum advance was bad. They could not find a replacement. My query: Where can I find a replacement, what vacuum advances are compatible with this machine, and is this likely to fix its traumatic uphill behavior? Can I do this, or do I need auto mechanic help? Also: oil pump is leaking significant amounts of oil (a quart every few weeks). Is it repairable? Do replacement units exist? Is this something I can do myself? Many thanks! -
Guys! there's so much info on here about this notorious tod. but i guess i'm curious because the videos i've seen to listen to the sound are all very persistent with a steady tick. i'm reading up on it because... well, i have it. i've had it for a few k's now. it is getting louder. it stops abruptly, then fades in. and sometimes, it doesn't happen at all, but does usually more and more so now. doesn't tick on the highway. the idle jumps up from 700 to 1200 and back down to 700 over and over. not always. it used to always, but i found a small hose disconnected from the charcoal filter with a mosquito clogging the end of it. removed the mosquito, replugged the hose, and the idle returned to normal. that was about 9k ago. now, it's doing it again, but the hose is still connected. i'm a little baffled. do these sound like TOD symptoms? i've read it might be a small exhaust leak? oh yes, also, it makes a delicate rattling sound from under the hood whenever i'm using lots of gas. for example: climbing a hill at a low rpm. as an after thought, my mechanic told me that this particular tick might not be the tick of death and could be something internal with the engine, in which case, paying to fix the TOD would render futile. although, he did not hear the tick, it's only been described to him as i have to you. i recently replaced the oil i use synthetic 10w-30 and used a little seafoam to see if it might help clean things up. but to no avail. anyways, i'd really appreciate some advice before i fork over the $500 to get the oil pump replaced. thanks dudes!
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I recently replaced my timing belt and pulleys, oil pump, water pump, cam seals, main seal and thermostat (thanks for the videos miles fox!) When i first started the car the passenger side timing belt pulled backwards towards the firewall on the cam pulley and is was riding pretty close to the edge of the pulley. I turned the car off and loosened the tensioner and pulled the belt back to the center of the pulley. when i started the car again the belt went immediately back to riding on the edge of the cam pulley. any ideas? Also terrible gas mileage before and after this job circa 15mpg in the city any ideas on this? edit = car is a 5mt 4wd loyale with 261k, the repair was originally initiated from a ball bearing falling out of my oil pump. thanks! -
In an effort to eliminate my TOD for good, i'm gonna swap out my oil pump, so i'm looking for a new one, but haven't found any that aren't priced very reasonably online. hoping to get some tips one tracking down one directly. and if i'm gonna be in there doing the oil pump, might as well do the water pump while i'm at it. they seem a lot cheaper than the oil pump, but if anyone has suggestions or a line on a water pump, i'd be very happy to know. thanks much!
