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Showing results for tags 'outback sport'.
Found 13 results
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My 2009 Impreza Outback sport has been experiencing some persistent coolant leaks. I am quite new to working on cars so I have come to you all for help! Initially I thought that it was coming from the coolant hoses connected to the throttle body, so I replaced them, replaced the throttle body gasket, and cleaned the throttle body as well. After attempting to drive it I noticed that when the car got hot and up to pressure the leak was still ongoing paired with quite a large amount of coolant loss. I was able to catch a glimpse of the coolant hose that connects to the air intake manifold on the drivers side (about two inches from the throttle body and slightly under the throttle body’s drivers side coolant hose) leaking coolant. After the engine cooled, I checked out that hose and found that it was absolutely crispy, it had no elasticity to it what so ever. I ordered the part and replaced the hose. Now I’m seeing a coolant leak from that same spot where the hose meets the air intake manifold. I do not have a pressure tester though I will be picking one up shortly. despite this I’m confident that this connection or hose is where the coolant leak is. My questions are as follows: what is the hose fitting that screws into the air intake manifold and allows the vacuum hose to mount on it called? why does this coolant hose have no clips (doesn’t seem to on diagrams I have seen) and could this be an issue? There were no clips on the initial hose and it obviously ran fine for year. Is it possible that its the fitting thats gone bad and not the hose? If so any advice on sourcing and properly replacing it? Thank you everyone! -
Hi all. I want to lift my Impreza by 3 to 5 cm. I’m still relatively new to Subarus, but I read somewhere that I could use Forester struts to get a small lift by drilling a third hole for the rear strut bolt. Is this true? If not, are they any decent options to raise my car a couple inches? Also, are there any other modifications I would need to make for the sake of alignment as a result of the lift? Any help would be appreciated! Thanks all. Skylar -
Hey guys running out of options here, I have a 1999 Impreza outback sport. 301,000 miles. 2.2l engine. 5 speed Manual. my cats were clogged due to a misfire so I knocked the filters out and put the pipes back on. my car currently has a problem where it will almost sound like its spitting If I give more than half throttle. its been doing this since before the cats were knocked out. I just replaced the throttle body position sensor due to a diagnostic that stated it was running at low efficiency, still nothing changed. I replaced the fuel filter in march of 2017 along with injector number three.(hence the misfire I had) car has California emissions. only code is an 02 sensor code since I knocked the cats out. any advice would be helpful. Thanks! -
I just recently bought my 2003 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport with 170k miles on it for the intention of making it a tuner... sort of. I bought the car because it was my best friend's. He had the car for about two weeks, then he very sadly got into a horrible accident (not car-related) that gave him fatal injuries. I miss him a lot and I bought the car to remind me of all of our great memories and so I could turn it into what he would've done. This is my first car that is "tunable", so I don't even know where to start.
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Hey Subie forum members, thankfully it has been a long time since I've needed your help, however this is serious. I took my car in for a smog check (in CA) two days ago, no she will not run. Need help. Full sequence of events below. 2 days prior to smog check: attempted to pass with aftermarket intake on car which did not pass component check but emissions were beautiful, 10-15% of allowed limits. Removed aftermarket intake and replaced with stock dual filter setup and all PCV hoses routed accordingly, didn't remember to disconnect battery to reset ECM. Drove for two days, minus a few HP, with no CEL or performance issues. I have a A/F ratio gauge in the center of dash (removed dash compartment) which showed typical readouts with needle bobbing in optimal range during cruising throttle positions, rich when I stepped on it and lean if i cut throttle until idle stable then bobbed optimal again. Smog Check: take it into local full service shop (reputable both by report of others and historically as they have aligned many of my cars and done exhaust work). it took about twice as long as usual but I believe they ran it twice just to make sure of the result. It failed emissions as gross polluter with excess hydrocarbon (unburned fuel) at idle only, 2500rpm test was still clean as a whistle. I get back in my car and fire it up and let it idle and low and behold the A/F gauge is nearly pinned rich. Nearly pinned as in way higher than I can get it to go by stomping the throttle under full load up a steep hill. But no CEL. I plugged in my code reader and cleared the DTCs just as a precaution, checked live data for any clear signs of sensor failure but all looked good. I opened intake and checked to make sure no obstruction was lodged in the intake, checked MAF connections, checked PCV system, checked intake for leaks, checked injectors for leaks- all were clear. I pulled out the primary filter without resetting the ECM to attempt to trick it into leaning out a little, took it for a test drive with no luck. Pulled the secondary filter right near the throttle body and it wouldn't run. Reinstalled the secondary filter and it ran but still rich at idle like before. Cleaned MAF with MAF cleaner, let dry 5 min, reinstalled. CURRENT BEHAVIOR: Now car will not idle, can start it fires up to 1500 for about 2 sec then stalls out like but i can keep it going by pummping the gas and rev it up to 3-4k rpm, then if I hold the throttle at that position it will hold for roughly 5-10 seconds then drop off to stall unless I pump it back up, and repeat the dropoff to stall in 5-10 seconds. Thought I may have fried the MAF by not letting it dry, replaced, reset ECM, same status as above. My first thought is- WTF did these guys do to my car?! What are the next steps I should take? Check fuel pressure? (where is the valve?) Electronics? Any help is appreciated. Thanks -
Hello everyone. I have a '97 Outback Sport with the stock EJ22. I was replacing the timing belt and the front oil seals. I had everything back together, and had rotated the engine forward several times with no trouble. I decided to use the belt tension to torque the cam nuts, and when doing the passenger side one, I think the cam slipped forward a few teeth on the belt. Sure enough, I rotated the engine again and somewhere after one or two revolutions of the crank, I hit a blockage and it wouldn't turn any further. I rotated it backwards (counter-clockwise) to try and get it back to zero and I found it was blocked after a certain point too. I pulled the timing belt and zeroed everything only to put it back together and find I can't tun the crank more than a quarter turn clockwise and it won't turn more than a half-turn counter-clockwise. I pulled all the plugs and that didn't change anything. I just took the belt off again, and zeroed everything. Without the belt on, the crank won't turn freely more than a 1/4 turn and a 1/2 turn in those directions. The cams turn freely, but advance forward on their own quite a bit when turing, possibly from the lobes? At no point has the car been started since I took everything apart. All of the turning has been done by hand with a ratchet. Any ideas what could be wrong? The crank is physically blocked by something. Is this thing hopelessly screwed up? At this point I'm considering towing it to a shop, but I don't want to spend a lot of money to be told I need a new engine. -
I have a 2003 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport with 73,xxx on it. Recently, it has started to hesitate badly while accelerating and will not go faster than 50 mph. I took it to the local dealer, who wants to charge $2,300 to replace the catalytic converter and front o2 sensor, saying it was plugged...but it hasn't been glowing red hot. The check engine light is on (not flashing) I already replaced the catalytic converter, front o2 sensor, ignition coil, spark plug wires, spark plugs and the valve gaskets (oil came out when I pulled the spark plug cables) a couple months ago. The engine runs more smoothly with this more recent set of problems compared to when I first replaced the catalytic converter a few months ago. The catalytic converter would turn red hot then, which is why I replaced it. Any thoughts on what could be causing this problem? My apologies if this has been covered before on here...I'm new to the forum. -
My oldest just bought a '93 2.5 RS 4-door and he loves the way it corners. I still love my 2000 OBS. I've had it since it was new and it's hard to believe it is 15 years old now. Still runs like a champ. We are having a little oil-changing party today.
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I just bought a 97 obw and I know little about it but im learning as I go, so far I have replaced my trunk latching stops or whatever they are called with newer ones from a newer obw to remove the trunk rattle, had a bad squeal on startup from my starter so im replacing that, my idle has been all over the place even at walking speed and anytime i move to neutral when coasting and such I checked my mass airflow sensor and its clean as a whistle so Im assuming its the throttle control module so I ordered that and am ready to replace. another issue is my rear wiper doesnt work and when I try and turn it on a strange buzzing noise comes from my left and behind me but not all the way at the back it sounds like something in the back passenger door or something wiring related any ideas? and last but not least my clutch pedal squeaks like a hamster in heat... any permanent fix for this? thanks MrLinfoot -
I have a 2002 Outback sport. I began having hesitation problems about one year ago. The hesitation would only occur after a fuel fill up and last for about 1-2 minutes then gone. Did not occur at idle, only when driving. Now, I've been having the issue at varying fuel levels regardless of fuel fill up or not and the hesitation appears to be worsening. The Knock sensor has just been replaced with no improvement in the hesitation. I've suspected the fuel filter, water in the fuel, what else? Any thoughts? -
Hey guys, I am thinking about taking on an EJ22 to EJ20T heart transplant for my 99 OBS, had a few questions: MY OBS has the 5 speed MT 1) what years of WRX with EJ20T should I look for? 2) What all components do I need to take from other car: brakes, ECM, harness, exhaust, etc (not looking to change dash)? 3) what should I absolutely avoid in the process? (tips/tricks) 4) Should I keep my "glas trans" or should I grab the WRX tranny and rear end to match the gears too? Thanks everyone. this is a killer forum. Cheers. -
Hi All, As you can see, this is my first post here. I just purchased my second Subaru, a green/ gold '99 OBS 5-speed with 219,500 miles on the clock now. In my first 1,000 miles, I am really enjoying the car and have had no problems yet. I put on a new set of tires, replaced a ball joint which had a rip in the boot, and adjusted the clutch pedal reach/ free play, which seems to have greatly improved a synchro problem downshifting into second. My Suby was salvaged after being totalled out by a minor front-end wreck (have all documentation, it wasn't bad at all). The exterior is a bit rough, some dents and faded clearcoat, but I don't care as long as I keep the rust away. The engine is clean, no drips from the cases, and the tech who replaced the ball joint and tires told me it looked to be in good shape overall. My question for other Impreza/ OBS owners of this generation, is what would you reccomend in terms of preventative maintenance other than oil changes, etc.? The car had one owner for most of its life, the owner who wrecked it had it for only a few K miles, and it looks like scheduled maintenance was performed. I would really love to put another 100,000 miles on this little car, I am already in love. Thanks in advance! -
I bought a 99 obs about three months ago and its been giving me some funny problems. the cars got 260k miles and im looking to get another 100k at least. Luckily its the 2.2l but when it warms up it feels like it wants to stall at idle. drives great and idles fine at first, but after sitting for maybe 7 seconds the rpms drop from about 500 to between 250 and 300. The car and engine shake really bad and it sounds like its running on two cylinders. I recently replaced the spark plugs with bosch platinums but didnt happen to check the gapping. also the wires were changed at about 160k miles but they are not oem. checked all the hoses I could see and didnt find any holes or cracks and just adjusted my throttle cables which fixed my cruise control issue but still no luck on this darn idle. any pointers would be great! also i dont know if it could be related but I put a cai on it and didnt want to run at all. Maybe faulty MAF sensor?
