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Hi everyone, first time poster. Im posting to warn everone about an issue with the late model (2012-2017) Foresters and possibly all Subaru's built on that chassis. The problem is the area under the spare tire is rusting (you have to remove the spare to see it) I have rust and peeling paint and my car was only a month old when i discovered it! As far a i can tell from discussions I've had on another forum, the two rubber plugs in the bottom of the round depression in the trunk (spare tire well) are letting water in. Some cars only have dirt and water stains but some are rusting at a surprising rate. I would venture to guess it is a paint quality issue. A properly painted metal surface should not rust when it comes in contact with water....ever. Here are some pics of my spare tire well. ...keep in mind the car was only a month old when i noticed it. Pull your spares and take a peek and use some silacone,rtv,gasket maker to seal it when you replace it. Hope you have better luck than I did
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I recently bought a used 2002 Outback LLBean. The paint has what my mom cause the Crackle Affect. The paint has very even little cracks everywhere. It kind of looks like an OCD artist decided to put 1/4 inch long key scratches in every which direction, about 3 per square inch. I knew it was this way when I bought the thing- I mostly am curious as to why this happens? I have seen a few other LLBeans with this same paint crack pattern. Any ideas? Thanks!
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Hey everbody, I have really nice white 1998 Outback, and a dilemma. A couple weeks ago, I was helping a guy redo the exterior of his house. When we re-stained the house, we got overspray on his two cars and my Subaru. He was gonna help me wash it with Trisodium Phosphate, but I had a busy schedule and wasn't able to get over there to do mine when he did his. He washed his truck with it and I guess it came out really clean. I borrowed the TSP from him and was just going to crack down on washing it myself but I can't get a hold of him at the moment to ask how he washed it so I tried googling washing a car with TSP. I couldn't find anything about using it on a car. I did read about people cleaning off overspray with some kind of clay bar, various polishing or car cleaning chemicals, but I don't have easy access to those kinds a things cause I live in a small town. Can anybody suggest how I should go about using this stuff? The guy told me that you have to mix it up with warm water and he also mentioned that I should only use half the recommended dosage for mixing it up so I will make sure that I don't use too much. From researching about TSP itself, it sounds like it's a pretty powerful chemical and I don't want to use it the wrong way and ruin my car. Any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated, David
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Dr. ColorChip Automotive Paint Chip Repair Kit - Dr. ColorChip: Automotive Paint Chip Repair Systems mentioned in this thread Company is Dr. ColorChip Corporation, Lake Park, FL 33403. Your Shopping Cart What's the Blending Solution and Blending Cloth in this kit made of? Can it be bought at any Auto Zone or other auto parts store so I don't have to wait for mail order?
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My paint job is overall in excellent shape with the car being garage kept and taken very good care of. I just want to repair some small hood paint chips from pebbles at high speed and can't believe how absolutely awful the Subaru paint match was. Gave Subaru dealer my vin number and was given one Titanium Peearl, color code 89N, for the bottom 1/3 of the car, which matches nearly perfectly, and a White Frost Pearl, Color Code No. 01X, for the top part. They provided only one bottle for the white paint - the White Frost Pearl, and it doesn't match at all, even after shaking that bottle for nearly 5 minutes. Appears mostly shiny gray/silver and in general has so little white in it no way it can match. Is Subaru forgetting a white base color that goes under it, and how could they not know when they have the Vin#? Bill earlier in this thread mentioned two white colors he was given. If the White Frost Pearl is a composite color, why didn't Subaru send two bottles for it? Which of these is my best bet: 1) Subaru for the white base color that goes under the color I was given, though perhaps they don't even carry it anymore 2) Dr. ColorChip Automotive Paint Chip Repair Kit - Dr. ColorChip: Automotive Paint Chip Repair Systems mentioned in this thread Company is Dr. ColorChip Corporation, Lake Park, FL 33403. $39.95 + $8.95 shipping = $48.90, Repairs up to a dozen chips and includes 1/2oz custom OEM match paint Base and Midcoat Paint; 1oz SealAct™ blending solution, 1 ultra paint brush, 1 nitrile glove , 1 white blending cloth: http://www.drcolorchip.com/cgi-bin/s...4&redirect=yes 3) How to find touch up paint for your make and model ? AutomotiveTouchUp.com$17.41 1/2 oz Base Coat and Mid Coat; doesn't include shipping or Clear Coat. Company is called Microfinish LLC, New Orleans, LA 70123 4) https://www.paintscratch.com/ $43.19 for smallest size pen kit including Base Coat, Midcoat and Clearcoat not including shipping. Company is Bio Pac, Inc., PaintScratch.com in Incline Village, Nevada.
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Gonna prime my 83 brat soon. The plan so far.... 1) sand it and repair rust (already done) 2) acetone it clean, possibly isopropyl alcohol after that 3) prime it! 4) body filler appropriate places 5) more primer I was just gonna use the epoxy primers they have now a days cause they are pretty great but then i was looking at my brat and sanding the rust off and thinking it would be great to have the acidic part of self etching primer to get any of the surface rust that might be hiding in gaps or wherever (so hard to get it all) can I body fill over the self etch? or should i just stick to the epoxy? I googled it of course but there is alot of different opinions out there thought i'd ask you knowledgeable folks
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Thanks so much for the great responses about my headlight problem! Due to rusting, my 04 Impreza TS needs a new hood. If I buy a hood from a body shop and have them paint it, how close will it be to the current color (22G), which has faded over the years? Thanks for any info you can provide. Laurie Sabol Ayer MA
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Hi guys, I'm about to replace my '99 impreza with a brand new one. One of my biggest pet peeves is rust. (Especially in new england). The first thing that I always see rusting is the exhaust, even after a few thousand miles. Does anybody know of a good paint to coat the exhaust with that will prevent any corrosion? Or are their any other methods of preventing exhaust rust? The main reason I've had to replace my old impreza is because of rust, which is why I'm really focused on eliminating it. I want to squeeze as much life as possible out of this new one that I'm about to get. As far as everything else on the car, I will be undercoating it with par-al-ketone and a couple of other chemicals that I use on our aircraft at work. If anybodies wondering, here are some of the other chemicals: corrosion x (get the aviation standard because it's better), mastinox, boeshield t-9, and cor-ban.
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As you can see in my profile photo, the paint on my car could use a little co-ordination. So I bought a pint of Subaru Rio Red (Called High-Tech Red by the paint company) in a "Ready-to-spray" can. It says on the can that no reducers are necessary, but do I have to add anything else to the paint? I want to just rough up the paint that's currently on the car now (Hood, fender) and spray over it. My other question is what kind of clear coat would acrylic lacquer paint require? My end goal is just to make it red. Close enough that you can't notices at 25 MPH that the car is in fact two-toned. I can take better pictures of the paint on the rest of the car. Thanks in advance!