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Showing results for tags 'power'.
Found 18 results
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Any Help Appreciated - Stumped. 2014 Crosstrek XV - overall, great car. But every now and then center console goes dead. No Radio, no clock. Time resets to 12:00 and all radio presets are lost. If driving while this occurs then engine functions normally. But, if the problem occurs while in the driveway then the fob won't unlock the car and bypassing with the key sets off the alarm. Wait long enough and the problem goes away. Does not appear to be related to whether the car is moving or idle. No relation to outside temperature. Dealer can not reproduce the problem. Any ideas?
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1984 GL-10 Hardtop Coupe FWD. EA81, Carter/Weber carburetor. Fuel pump isn't operating. If I provide fuel down the carburetor the engine will run properly until I stop fueling. Replaced fuel pump, and distributor (to provide proper ignition signal, the shaft had some play). I'm focusing on the Fuel Pump Control Unit (FPCU), but I'm not in a position where I can afford to experiments with a $150 new one without being fully convinced that it will remedy my situation. I need actual diagnostic information about this box specifically. Does anyone know the actual function of the FPCU? First off I'm a Subaru dealership technician, so I'm certainly not shooting blind, but I can't find any actual information about the operation of the FPCU. Using the factory service manual, Haynes, and Chiltons manuals I've been able to find almost nothing of what kind of output this module produces. The manuals all basically say " if power and ground are there, tach signal is coming in, then the pump will run." Yes, that's wonderful, but run how? From what I've figured the pump produces a pulsing power signal, since the pump does nothing and blows the breaker in the Powerprobe after a moment when I supply power and ground directly to the pump. A replacement pump (new) had the same result leading me to believe the pump needs a on-off pulsing power source to operate the plunger solenoid. Followup question: Has anyone ever found a way to bypass the FPCU? if it were as easy as a switch or a relay to provide bypassed power to the pump I would have done that, but that was not successful. Can any of the components inside the FPCU be replaced (resistors, capacitors, etc). I implore you USMB and your fountain of knowledge! ~Erik -
As the title suggest i am curious about getting more power from my 89 Subaru Brat. I've been thinking about an ej swap but I'm in love with the ea 81 and would like to refrain from engine swapping. Any ways to pump some power from this little thing?
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Hello. Having trouble with my electric choke. When the weather is hot i have no problem starting car and driving it around. Problem came when one morning it was a little cooler and engine would not stay on by itself only by playing with the gas pedal. I know this has to do with the choke. I currently have electrick choke conecyed to the back of alternator. Maby i need a different source of constant 12V from somewhere. I am using a weber carburetor any ideas were i can properly connect the electric choke too? I beleive power source should only be there when i turn the key. Thanks.
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Hi Guys, having a problem with my 1999 legacy (30th anniversay edition) 2.5l auto. I've had a search through the forums but not seen anything that matches, hopefully someone has had a similar issue! Since I bought it 2 years ago, there's been an intermittent issue with power in the low gears where occasionally i'll go to put my foot down from stopped or from low speed and nothing happens! The car rolls forward but only at <5mph. Theres engine pitch drops which I can only compare to when I accidentally try to pull away on my old bike with the choke still on. 2-3 seconds later the power kicks in and all is well! This happens 1 or 2 days a week and the rest of the time its fine. More recently (3 weeks) I've been getting a short judder when idling, which is worse on a cold startup. This is followed by what feels like slipping when pulling away. Generally fine once into 2nd and above. I've did think it might be the transmission starting to go, but no problems in the higher gears, no slipping going up steep hills/under load (other than when pulling away on a cold start) and gear changes are mostly smooth. ATF is at the correct level and still looks to be in good condition too. Spark plugs are about 10,000m old, air filter was changed 6 months ago. Next step was going to be changing the fuel filter, but by the looks of things I only have an in-tank filter, not one under the hood so I was wondering if anyone here has any ideas of what to try first before I go fiddling around in there! TIA -
Hi, I am new to the forum but hope I can get some help and also help out. I want to swap manual seats for power heated ones in a 2000 legacy L. I already know 2000 to 2004 are interchangeable. I also know the fancier seats are in Outbacks. OK. To put LL Bean leather power seats from a 2003 outback into the 2000 Legacy is easy. You may have to change the seat belt receptacle but other wise the bolts are the same everything goes right in. In the 2000 Legacy I have the line for the power seat is right there under the driver's seat. OK so far. But it has no power. When I looked at a 2001 outback with a power seat there were no extra fuses but I think an extra circuit breaker or some such creature under the left dash. Where is the end of this seat power cable and are the input lines for the circuit breaker under the dash? Also for the seat heaters the situation is similar. No power lines, but if you take out the switches and cable from the Outback you have what you need and again there seems to be an another circuit breaker under the dash that I need to hook up to. Any suggestions and info will be greatly appreciated. If, no when I get this working I will let you all know how to do it. Thanks, Ken -
When driving my Subaru outback 2002 the green power light will start flashing uncontrollably and does not stop. It comes on occasionally and goes away after turning the car off and on again. I topped up the transmission fluid after realizing that it was low. I have been experiencing loss of power at times and other times the car runs great seemed to run great after I topped up the fluid and thought that was the issue. Today the light came back on again on the highway. I have also been feeling some clunking while pressing the gas peddle and releasing the gas pedal. Which I don't recall being present when I first purchased the car around 2 months ago, after I topped up the fluid that seemed to help the clunky gas pedal a fair bit but occasionally it still occurs. I've noticed the steering becoming harder at times but most of the time it seems fine. I thought maybe a failing power steering pump or something like that or maybe that's an entirely different issue. Could the power light have something to do with power steering? or does it strictly refer to the transmission? The car has 170,000 km. Not a lot of info online about the blinking power light. Any info appreciated, Thanks. -
Does anyone know the overall width of an EA82 power steering rack WITHOUT tie rod ends installed?
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My Subaru has a vibration feeling up front while stopped in drive. It occurs whether if it's warmed up or cold and as soon as I creep forward it stops vibration. The car seems to idle nice and steady, I don't think it's an engine issue. I had one mechanic tell me it was an exhaust shield and another say it was the power steering pump. I trust the pump diagnosis but was wondering if anyone has experienced this or can speak to the validity of that diagnosis. And if it is the pump, should I rebuild or replace? This Baja is getting expensive ... D: -
I just bought a 2006 outback 2.5L It didn't come with a remote control(fob) for the locks so I ordered one off amazon. The instructions it came with were kind of confusing and didn't work when I tried to program it so I just used some instructions off the internet and it worked fine. The very same night the car wouldn't start. I played with the battery cables, cleaned the terminals and ground, and still nothing. Jumping it worked. I drove to Oreillys where I work, and as soon as I turned the car off it lost all power again, dash lights, dome light, everything. So I took the battery and alternator out to bench-test them and they both came back fine. I can jump start it successfully every time, but as soon as I turn the key off I lose all electrical power. Could it be a security issue or something from the new key fob? Im stumped at this point. Thanks for any info! -
i need help with my car. just got a 3 door 1988 GL 4x4 and it ran good when i bought it, but now it wont stay running when i put any load on the engine. i can get it to idle, then if i put load on it, it sputters really bad and stalls. takes a bunch of tries starting to get it to stay running again. the ea81 was put in by the previous owner, and it has a 2 barrel weber carb that i was told needs adjusting. im stuck cuz i have to drive 700 miles and my other car just broke down
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Hey guys, so I've posted on here a lot about my old 95 Subaru Legacy L which recently broke down. Couldn't figure out what was wrong with it and had to get it towed 38 miles. It ended up being jumped timing. I reset the timing belt and she ran great again. I sold it for 1200$ (it had 270,000 miles on it) and bought this 95 Impreza L 1.8 liter. It only has 130,000 miles and has a clean body/interior and runs pretty good. I was tired of being worried about my legacy breaking down all the time. Anyways, so I'm wondering what I can do to squeeze a little more power out of this 1.8 liter. I know it's a smaller motor and makes less torque. But it's what I got now. Anyways, it's got a bit of a rough idle, not too bad, just bobs around at 5-600 RPMs or so, not perfect smooth like my 2.2 liter Legacy. I've been told it can be the IACV? and to clean it? Tried googling that to no avail. I've already done the normal stuff, new NGK spark plugs, fuel filter, wires, injector cleaner, cleaned MAF and throttle body, What else? I also transferred my custom catback exhaust and wheels, and just ordered a UEL header for it. Anyone got any good ideas to gain just a few HP and throttle response? What about a 2.2 swap or some kind of frankenbuild? My 95 Legacy was OBD2, but this 95 Impreza is OBD1 so I'm assuming I can't swap that. Can I swap a 2.2 from a first gen Leggy? What are my options? Thanks in advance.
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I have a 97 impreza outback sport and yesterday the power started to cut in and out like a bad battery/ground connection. earlier that day I had swapped my battery with someone at the river that had left there lights on. and didn't have the proper tools to tighten it back up so that's what I thought was happening. but I start to smell soothing burning and notice a light from a fire by my feet. so I stopped to check it out at and notice it was my clutch cable arcing and almost catching fire. I do notice when I push down on the clutch just a nuff that the peddle meets the cable it stops and I regain power as if it is grounded -
So after finishing up the weber swap and starting to crank it over, it cranked for a while and sounded good, giving it a few tries to get the fuel all through the system, then all the sudden no power anywhere. No lights, nothing. Battery is good. Good connections to the wires coming off the terminals. All the fuses inside the car are good. So I'm stumped a because I don't know much about all the electrical wiring.. What should I check along the wires or fuses?? Thank you for any help
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Hi Guys I have a 2003 Subaru forester xt 2,0 . When the air around and the car is really cool like in the mornings or at night, the cars turbo has very nice pull and can even bring the traction control light on while turning onto a road with foot flat. My problem is that as soon as the car gets warm or hot that pull disappears. Starts to run like a 2.0 litre none turbo. What could be causing this to happen? Is it a hole in a pipe, is it the intercooler not working properly when the vehicle get hot or is the turbo breaking? One other thing. When the rpm gets over about 3 000 rmp some times I can hear a constant quick ticking sound. I'm not sure if the engine is supposed to make that sound but I have noticed that its there some times and not there other times. -
Got the weber swap done and car is running. Been driving it for a couple days and it is much quicker in the lower end and a hell of a lot louder idles good and runs smooth other than a sort of "flat spot" when giving it more throttle, almost as if its shorted on fuel or air? I also think the timing could use some adjusting but I can't advance the disty anymore because of a port and hose coming out of the intake manifold, into the block. (This is an EA81 motor with a weber on a EA82 intake manifold). But thinking I can remove and block that hose to get the timing dialed. So my question to the board is; what would you do to this setup to give it just that much more power/response/smoothness? Cap and rotor? Coil? Btw it's a 1982 GL 4x4. Thank you! -
So, here is the situation: My drivers side door was pulled from a car with power windows/locks, but my Loyale has manual windows and locks. The window obviously doesnt work, and I want to fix that.. Even if it is a "jimmy rig." I will shell out a few bucks for a manual door if i cant figure out something good. Bear with me here because I know jack squat about electronics/wiring. I want to know, is there a way to wire the window switch up to my battery? The back of the switch is a mess, it has 5 or 6 posts with a wire running to another switch, and some 10 ohm resistors(i think) running between posts. I was thinking it would be a bit more simple. Any way to just power the window motor itself? i dont really see how i could control up/down that way though. Secondly, can i just go pull a few things off of a door at pick n pull, such as the manual handle, and whatever else i need? I am starting to feel dumb here but i'm a bit stumped and its getting awfully warm out to have a stuck window. I wanna feel the breeze this summer. If i should post pics, let me know. Your help is greatly appreciated, if you have ever dealt with something like this before. An idea is an idea so throw em out there if you got em, fellas! - Walker -
1995 legacy 2.2 automatic, awd, 160,000, all stock.... I own 4 2.2 legos... All get around 22 mpg average. A few weeks back my son noticed he was dumping more gas in more often than normal. Had him check the gas mileage over a full tank.... 13.7 mpg. Also, it seems to be lacking its previous get up and go.... Sluggish, but not horrible. I have had the cat converter suggested.... What other likely culprits are good starting points? No engine light, by the way.... Thanks!
