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Showing results for tags 'problem'.
Found 19 results
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Vehicle: 1986 Subaru GL Wagon, Dual Range 5 Speed, Carbureted, Weber 32/36 Converted Issue: No longer getting Fuel Pump Signal to the Pump. It would be intermittent, but now seems to be consistent with getting no Signal. I've heard from @Gloyale that the 6 pin Fuel Pump Controller (Relay) only sends power to the pump when there is a Tachometer Pulse on the yellow wire... Is that Signal originated from the Distributor? Also I've heard from @GeneralDisorderin regards to the Controller, that: "The wire going to the pump is usually a blue with red stripe. The control unit will also have a yellow tach signal, black ground wire, and an ignition hot supply (white I think)." Background: The problem began intermittently... if I had an issue with the pump, I could either add Fuel directly to the carburetor to prime the system. Or, I could apply power directly to the Fuel Pump to also Prime the system. Occasionally I would have to do both in order to get the vehicle to run. Once the pump was working, it would not cut-out mid-trip. Not until the vehicle was turned off and then tried to be re-started later; would an issue happen, where I would have to do one off the pre-mentioned priming methods. Now the pre-mentioned priming methods no longer work... What kind of tests can I do to see what needs replacing? I'd like to have the wiring stay this way it was from the factory... however if not I could wire the fuel pump to a switch, racecar style... I'm not sure though; does the tach Signal increase/decrease pump speed based on engine speed? Thanks for reading, hope to keep my Wagon on the Road! -
The video tells the story!!! The left turn signal switch will activate flashing in bulbs other than the turn signal bulb! https://youtube.com/shorts/AtWGv5Lt3ns?feature=share -
Hey all, longtime reader here. I’ve gotta tons of great information from you guys in the past 10 years of owning subarus, so thanks in advance. Ok, hoping I can get some ideas on this problem that’s been driving me crazy. 1999 outback leggy, 2.5 dohc, 5-speed, 215k miles. Had a cyl4 missfire code that went away with new plugs and wires, but it comes and goes still, Although I don’t think that’s related to the issue I’m having. Car started randomly cutting out while highway driving, throttle did nothing for a few seconds like it was cutting spark or fuel completely.. But would come right back online after pumping to the floor a couple times. Cold starting it will start and idle but sometimes dies after 5-10 minutes, then starts right back up and idles. Car runs perfect when that’s not happening. I’ve driven it probably 200+ miles with this problem but it’s been getting more frequent. Sometimes it will completely cut out and not come back, then I turn the key off then it starts right back up and runs but cuts in and out frequently at any speed. yes the battery terminals are clean and have good connections, grounds as well. Things I’ve done/tried: New plugs, new wires, new ignition coil, fuel filter, fuel pump. Tried new cam and crank position sensors, Looks like all the connections are good on the harness. I unplugged the MAF and drove it around and the same symptoms came up. Any ideas on what I should look for/try next? -
1984 GL 4WD 49 State, with Weber carb. Bah! Trying to find the cause of a problem which comes and goes. 'been pleased with the Weber carb, starts right up usually. Yesterday, I had a crank but no-start condition. Choke in right position, correct fuel pressure to carb. 50 degree day. Removed dist cap, wd-40'd and thoroughly dried it. I attempted to start several times, and I did not get even a "pop". Also, with starting fluid, choke open, then choke closed, no start, no detonation. I let the car sit for a couple of hours, then came back to it to do diagnostics. I removed #1 spark plug wire, to check spark on disembodied spark plug. The car started right up with gusto on 3 cylinders. What is the most likely cause of intermittent spark problem? Anecdotal information wanted! It's all I have to go on.
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I have a 2011 STI Hatch with an Accessport, SF Intake, and Turbo Exhaust. It sat for about a month and a half while I was away and when I came back to drive it down the east coast, the battery was dead so I got a jump to start it and head south from Rhode Island. I was noticing some pretty awful performance and gas mileage over the 15 hour trip. I averaged about 16 mpg and was not getting the performance I had gotten before. I thought it might be from the fuel sitting so long, but I filled up the tank several times over the trip. My intake filter is in rough shape, so I plan on replacing it, but I wasn't sure if that was the problem. Should I uninstall and reinstall the Accessport since the battery died? Not sure where to go from here. I'm fairly new to the mods. Any help would be appreciated! -
For at least a few months I have had this popping sound coming from what sounds like is inside the dash after decelerating from highway speeds. I am hoping that someone has heard this before or can help me pinpoint cause. I'd like to fix it if possible or at least know that something critical is failing or going to leave me stranded. This is a 1993 Subaru Impreza Wagon/Hatchback and has an EJ18 1.8L SOHC engine with manual transmission, AWD, and no ABS. This sound only occurs after the car as warmed up (it is silent when cold), after driving at 50+ mph for at least a few minutes, and then decelerating and driving around slower. Here is a video where you can hear the noise I am talking about: This video has the driving around cut out. This is after I have driven probably 5 miles at 55 mph and then slowed down into a subdivision. You will notice that it starts making a popping noise which sounds like it is somewhere in the middle of the dash. This is noticeable after getting off the highway but becomes even more noticeable once I slow down further from 35 mph to 20 mph. During the course of this video, I move the camera around between the drivers side and passenger side under the dash, and the on top of the dash. This noise is noticeably louder if there is a bigger difference in speed. Example: 70 mph freeway to an almost stop off an exit. This sound does not exist when the car is completely still. Or if it does, there are only one or two pops and then it stops. You will notice that the noise is not rhythmic and fairly random. I do not believe this is a problem with a engine rotating part, otherwise the sound would exist when revving the car in neutral; which it does not. This video was taken over a month ago and the noise has become louder/more severe when it occurs. This sound started somewhere around the time after I replaced timing belt (and other regular replacement parts normally done at this time), water pump, thermostat, flushed the cooling system and added brand new coolant. This may or may not be related. Has anyone heard anything like this before? Any hypothesis? Is my car dying a slow painful death? Thanks in advance! -
I'm not very familiar with cars so I was looking for help on identifying an engine part. I was driving this afternoon and saw some smoke coming out of my hood so I opened the hood and saw a fluid leak near the bottom of the engine. It looks like a part tore and something came leaking out. It's near the passenger side towards the back of the engine. Can you help me ID it?
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I drove to work. Everything was fine. Then I'm told there's oil under my car. I checked the dip stick and I only have a bit less than full. That said, my car has a drip or few every couple days. It isn't dripping oil in this huge spot anymore. Does anyone think this released from the oil pressure relief valve or do I probably have a bigger problem? I will update the post as I find out more. I have to get my car to level ground at the end of the day and check other fluids. (The second small puddle in the back is AC condensation. Water.)
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I have a 97 impreza outback sport and yesterday the power started to cut in and out like a bad battery/ground connection. earlier that day I had swapped my battery with someone at the river that had left there lights on. and didn't have the proper tools to tighten it back up so that's what I thought was happening. but I start to smell soothing burning and notice a light from a fire by my feet. so I stopped to check it out at and notice it was my clutch cable arcing and almost catching fire. I do notice when I push down on the clutch just a nuff that the peddle meets the cable it stops and I regain power as if it is grounded -
So im trying to replace my manual transmission input shaft seal, and after removing the 3 bolts ive been unable to remove the plate. I cant find anything on it in my manual. Its a 5 speed manual dual range trans out of an 87 gl wagon. IVe got it about an inch out, but it doesnt seem to be a plate like i thought before its more of a shaft with an oring... im confused, and since i have no guide to go off of.... i need help! -
Every time i turn my car off, rev too fast or shift i get "gunshots" and i think my neighbors are getting angry so i wouldn't mind if Anyone could help me... and my muffler blew up
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all of the sudden I started my 82 gl yesterday and the tac was viciously jumping up and down but it wasn't revving the motor all the way. I could kind of hear something under the hood making kind of a slipping/skipping noise. I thought it could have been frozen coolant because its mostly straight water and it was freezing outside. so I let it warm up while doing this then went on my way. it would stop for a little bit but even once warmed up and driving it was still fluttering even in 4th gear going 55. its really not wanting to stay idling now either. when I put the clutch in to come to a stop it idles down and dies if I don't rev it in time. Anybody ever experienced this? Please help! THANKYOU! -
Ive had my XV for about two months now and I really love it. Just started to add some accessories on to the vehicle over the last few weeks. Seeing how the weather here in NJ has been in the 90s (with humidity factored in 100+) I opted to have vent shields put on the vehicle. (Nearly all last week there was a slight chance of afternoon thunderstorms which left enough doubt in my head to not crack the windows) I had put these on my previous non-Subaru vehicle and loved the addition of them, I really never left my windows closed all year long. So this afternoon I put on the new vent shields that I had purchased through the Subaru dealership where I had purchased the car. I was told these are the same ones you can buy through subaru.com. Ok right. Well once on the car I found a slight issue: the area of coverage closest to the side mirror is not covered by the shield when the window is brought down to the halfway point to the top. Ill try to explain as best I can without a picture. The area covered at the top of the door can be lowered say 2 inches and be covered by the shield. If i was to bring the window down that 2 inches the top area of the window is covered by the shield and the area of the window (the downward sloping area) towards the side mirror is slightly exposed. I can only lower the window halfway (we'll say only 1 inch at the top). If this is still confusing Ill happily upload a photo of it, I didnt think to take one in the daylight today as I was getting frustrated with my new found problem. Has anyone else purchased these from their dealership and found this problem. The box was all in Japanese except for one small section that stated "Impreza model". Seeing how the two car are brothers I cant see that this would result in this problem.
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Alsalam Alaykom and Good day, i am seeking for knowledge as it is not found anywhere around, i have several problem with my 97 Subaru Impreza "FWD-1.6" which i really love so much, and i was hoping to find some answers in here as even in the internet haven't much related to my car: when i am on the first gear, and raise my foot gently to make the car moves "without using acceleration" the whole engine shakes real bad, and to over come on this problem, i have to use the acceleration, which i don't consider normal as i have driven so much cars that could drive without using the acceleration, although there's a little shake in the other gears, but the first gear is the worst experience, so i was hoping for some answers regarding this matter, what trouble shooting i should do. i would like to have a full map for all the sensors for 97 Subaru Impreza "FWD-1.6" with the function of each one, and how to check on them. in winter, when its cold, the engine temp. decrease so much, and i don't know the reason for that. the engine sound is so loud, like lots of loud quick "tic-tic-tic-tic", is this normal in subaru world? what are the things that i suppose to check from time to time, and what should be replaced after exact time or km i really appreciate your time for just reading my problems, and i am hoping to hear from anyone that might help me, as you don't know how much this car means to me, it's love -
Hello everyone, Nice website you've got here, I finally had to stop lurking and make an account because she stopped running and it was time to ask for help, so here goes: I've got an 86 subaru GL, 300,000+ miles, rebuilt ea82, she's been running really well lately but the other day I started her up on the first try, as usual, just jumped right to life. I drove about 10 feet and stopped at a stop sign and the engine died. Wouldn't start but still turn over. Checked the fuel pump fuse and it was blown, so I replaced it and she started right up again. I drove about 4 blocks and it died again, wouldn't start. Fuel pump fuse was blown again. Replaced the fuse, started up, and died immediately. Fuse was blown again. Subsequently replaced and blew 3 more fuses, without the car running for more than a second, and was then all out of spares and had to get a tow back home. I've been hearing it could be that the fuel pump relay has gone out. My plan was to replace the relay this afternoon and see if that does it, but I could use some information in regards to the location of the fuel pump, or if anyone else has any ideas or solutions it'd be great to her em. Thanks!
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I have a 1993 subaru legacy. It's an automatic 2.2 liter. It has 191,xxx miles on it, and it was well taken care of by the previous owner. I have owned it for about a month now, and mind you I am a BRAND NEW driver (2 months) and this is my 2nd car. According to my mechanic husband I should get 20 miles to the gallon. Last time I filled up I reset my trip mile counter thing, and I am now at a quarter tank after 90 miles. Since it's a 15.9 gallon tank, 11.9 gallons for 3/4 of a tank, that is about 7.5 miles per gallon... I am hoping there is something obvious I am missing. After I bought it there was an electrical wire problem with the starter, which was fixed, and then the alternator went out, which was also replaced with a brand new one. I use as little heat as possible to try to conserve gas (however I do live in Alaska), and I am NOT a speed racer whatsoever - I always drive the speed limit if not slower. (I hate driving) My check engine light HAS been on as long as I've had the car, and my car SUPER hates the cold mornings - I always have to start it a couple times to get it going. Ideas? Suggestions? Help? Please? Pretty please? PS - Why are the fuel tank measurement lines (on the dash) so uneven/disproportionate? Is that related? -
New to the forum! My SE-R's QR25DE bit the dust so for the time being I had to buy a winter beater. I was looking at 90's Civics, Crollas, Camrys, Maximas. Suddenly had the idea to check the area for Subarus. I didn't think I'd find one in my price range, but hey: 1987 GL Hatch? Rebuilt title? Rusty rear end from probably rear end repairs? Nonsense, less than a grand and some TLC later, I've got a soild runner. Someone even installed modern AC that works. There's only two things that concern me. 1. If I drive this car casually, after about 20 minutes the check engine light comes on. I'm guessing the engine or transmission warms up enough for something to go awry? Autozone and my local Subaru dealership said they don't have the equipment to check my computer, too old. An older guy at Subaru told me that it's probably "something with emissions (O2 sensor?)" and that although it won't get the best gas mileage, it'll run fine. THe only warning he could offer was to watch out for overheating. Driving on the highway or using 4WD offroad cuts this time down til the check engine light comes on. She starts everytime, runs decently well. I wouldn't be able to tell if it's running rough but it sounds like the ones I've seen on youtube. 2. I can hear an audible clicking coming from the driver's side front wheel/hub/rotor. It's always there, more noticeable now that the car actually has a muffler. It speeds up with speed of course, and I'd have to double check but I'm pretty sure it's always there. Not like it goes away by shifting to neutral. My memory is fuzzy at the moment, so I'd have to double check. I've done research while looking at other older cars, and from what I've learned: it could be a bushing? CV joint? Worst case, axle? These are just educated guesses, please enlighten me! I hope nothing too serious is wrong with my new Hatch, it drives very well, shifts great, and the suspension is like new (probably replaced). Let me know if I need to bust out my wallet to "buy" my car again :/
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So about a month ago I noticed my power steering started to get harder and harder to turn. About a week and a half ago it began to make noise. Last week I replaced the pump and yet still no change. Today I blew an axle...yay me....so as I was under the car checking out my busted hub and axle, I noticed a small tear and the power steering boot. I squeezed it and power steering fluid came gushing out. Does anyone know if this is the cause of the squeeky and difficult steering, or is it something more internal? Also, of anyone has instructions on axle Replacment, that would be wonderful. Thanks guys! -
