Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'rear'.
Found 22 results
-
A video where I ask the question: Is this ok? Slop at rear axle, drum removed The bearing can slide in and out with very little pressure.
-
Can the rear alignment on a 2nd generation 4wd Subaru be adjusted by mere mortals? -
Throwing this out to the community for help. I'm looking to buy/borrow/copy the driver used to release the rear wheel bearings from an EA-series trailing arm. I've got two sets of wheel bearings that need changing and I'd REALLY prefer to not use a punch to break these guys free. Any leads you can provide will help. -
Hi Guys, I'm planning to replace my rear struts this coming weekend and much to my surprise and chagrin, the FSM says that in order to change the rear struts, you have to pull the rear axles, pull the driveshaft - err, prop shaft, then drop the entire crossmember and rear differential, just to remove the strut! If I wasn't reading the manual I would have just thought it'd be possible to jack up the car, compress the spring, then undo the two upper mount bolts and the lower bolt, pull the strut, and replace. Bam. A quick search doesn't bring anything up in the forums here. Although I'm now confident that lots of people have done this (and that one person is convinced the factory struts are so great they never need to be replaced). Any insights? It's a dual range 4wd if that matters. Hopefully they can be changed without having to get into the rear diff or driveline at all, it'd be nice to save a few hours on this one. -
The videos.... 22 and 24 seconds I am trying to fix an oil leak at the rear min seal, but it looks like the larger ring isn't the thing that is leaking. It looks like an inner, orange ring is leaking, and that is not a part of the clutch replacement kit What is the name of the orange rubbery part? I think I need to replace it, because it looks like that's the only place the oil could've come from. Suggestions?
-
I've got a 4.11 FD ratio transmission to replace the one that's failing in my 2002 legacy. This means I need a 4.11 rear differential as mine is 3.90. I found a great deal on one that is limited slip from a JDM WRX with low miles, only thing is the axles are slightly thicker at the splines on the WRX. How hard is it to take the differential apart and use the axle-holder-spline-bearings (sorry, don't know the part name) from my old differential so my axles will fit? Is this possible? -
What do you guys do for sway bars on the ea cars? I want to be able to hoon around some still after I install the 5" lift, and I remember some people talking about 3 wheeling just driving on the off ramps when they're lifted this much I was thinking I could weld on some hrew/dom onto a cut down front sway bar, and thread a heim into that, with some rod style links (I know heims are supposed to mount vertical, but I don't think there is enough force to break one on these cars in this application) For the rear I was thinking finding a basic sway bar shaped like this: And then mounting it on the rear lit blocks, with the same style linkage to some custom mounts on the " a arms" of the ea suspension (most likely a plate welded to the 2 trailing arms, and then a hole/nut or a heim mounting tab. Was also debating trying to fab one onto the torsion beam, but don't know how it would respond to the heat, and the added twisting. This is all on a car that will have a frame built for it from 2x2x.25, like 88hatch has on his, but with more mount points, along with 2x5x.1875 rock sliders/rocker panels that will be tied into the frame (doing boatsides with HDPE plastic), so I think it could take the extra stress
-
I tend to count on my male folks to let me know when to stress about my car or not. Left to my own devices every little noise would get my heart rate up. Well, now my rear differential tried to explode on me. Can't even drive the Baja up the driveway to get it into the garage. Something about the clutch not having enough friction. The boys are coming round for beers and car work later so it is about to get pulled all apart. For now I have one picture of the crack in the rear differential. You'll note that there is oil actively leaking out of the rear differential so it wasn't that I lost lubrication and then it broke. Seems to me like one of those things that doesn't ever really happen. Anyone got any pointers or potential causes of the failure?
-
What parts do I need to get to do a rear disc brake conversion on my 88 GL 4wd wagon? Any input would be helpful. Also is there a thread somewhere on how to drill hubs to the 4 x 114.3 pattern?
-
replaced rear pads rotors.drivers side rear caliper.have rubbing noise.and no parking brake.cleaned up both sides.all look.good.any help.99 outback.wagon.a(t maybe adjust .or broken cable.really do not need it -
Hello Everybody! I'm almost done with a 3 month long project resealing my 1990 loyale's EA82 (head gaskets and the works!) I think I've used this forum more than my haynes manual, you guys rock! Right now I'm a little stuck trying to get my rear main seal in. Does anybody have a little wisdom as to how to get this seal to seat straight??? I'm on seal #3 beacause I get close and then I pops in crooked and I destroy it geting it back out any tips would be appreciated Thanks!
-
Howdy, we have the 2005, and it needs suspension work. I am pretty handy and well equipped, and use the lifts at the garage on a military base - however, this is new to me. The garage has a strut / spring compressor mounted to the wall I can use. I need some recommendations for the best way to go about that. Should I just buy replacement struts with the coil (front) and the similar full assembly set up for the rear ? Or should I buy only the struts (front) and shocks (rear) and then reuse the coils ? I reviewed some of the info about ghostwalking, which is not an issue we have experienced. In the solutions area it says... Solution #3: Replace worn rear dampers. The 2005-2009 chassis dampers (struts/shocks) are notorious for premature wear. The rear end is the worst with a floatly/bouncy feeling after only a few years of use. The fix is to replace the rear shocks with a more robust aftermarket brand like KYB Excel-G/GR-2. Using the 2003-2004 chassis rear KYB shocks is a popular option because they stiffen the rear end considerably and are 100% compatible with the 2005-2009 cars. See the main suspension FAQ thread for more info. Would that be the best way to go at this point ?? I am not sure what a "damper" is, unless they are referring to the entire shock / strut assembly. They mention only the shocks, so are they reusing the spring coil ? Any other recommended struts or shocks, or should I stay with OEM from Subi ? Thank you, C -
I done some digging in the various forums but can't seem to find the answer. I have a 1990 Legacy wagon with only 140k on it. I've done the front struts but the parts store wants stupid prices for the rears. I've seen that I can swap top hats and use later model struts but i can't find exact information. If anyone has some for sale I'd be interested. I'm sure I need springs too. AFIK OEM is still in there from when my dad bought it new in 1990. You can also reply to mcopeland at pobox dot com Thanx, Mike -
These bolts are no longer available from Subaru and I was wondering if anyone had any dimensions so I can order them through other channels. Thanks!
-
So today I decided to replace the shoes on my rear drum brakes on my Loyale. I've been looking for rear discs for about a year, but not had any luck. Either I don't have the money, there are no junkyard cars, or a list of other reasons. I just spent the $20 and got new drum shoes. Installation went fine (surprising). Wasn't too difficult, even for my first time doing drum brakes. What I have a question about is the old shoes. One thing that caught my eye was the Fuji Heavy Industries logo on two of the shoes. Could these be the original brake shoes that came with car in 1990? The new shoes didn't have the Fuji logo (obviously). The odometer is at 278,300 miles. I doubt these are the original shoes. I'd imagine they've been replaced once before. If they were replaced at the dealership, could they have use Fuji brake shoes? I'm just curious about this. Knowing some of the car's history, I'd say it was probably a 60/40 highway/city driving car. So there's no way the shoes are original, right? They're really worn down, but they still worked. Lift the back of the car, step on the brake, and you can't turn the wheels. Second thing I wanted to ask about is the wear. The leading edge shoe (towards the front of the car) had less material than the trailing edge. Is this normal for EA82s? Both sides were exactly the same, no marks on the drums themselves, and the material on the pads seems pretty normal (no cracks or whatever). I just wanted to ask about this. I kinda have a feeling it's normal, but wanted to check. Thanks for any help. I know a lot of people do rear disc swaps, so not sure how abundant the information on drums is. But all I can say is, the new shoes made a HUGE difference. My brake pedal is a lot stiffer and doesn't have a deadzone in it anymore. I presume the front brakes won't overheat easily anymore. I'll be happy if I can get at least 100K out of these shoes. Thanks!
-
2002 Forester 5MT, 205,000km I am trying to remove my Rear Differential, to fix it (I think that one of the output-shaft taper-roller bearings is worn - I have a rear-end rumble & about 1mm radial & axial play on the output-shaft at the diff). But I am stuck on the first step of the procedure. I cannot get the suspension lateral-links (front & rear) disconnected. I cannot remove the long outer lateral-link bolt (#20540AA000). This has a 19mm hex head, and is about 150mm (6") long. I can remove the 19mm nut, and I can turn the actual bolt with difficulty, using lots of lubricant and a long breaker-bar. But the bolt will not move along its length to remove it. I've tried hammering on the loosened nut, but the bolt won't move. How can I remove this bolt? I'm reluctant to use heat, as this will destroy the rubber bushings. But maybe that doesn't matter, as it could be that a rubber bushing is seized onto the bolt any way. Any advice for me? Thanks. EDITED to add "a rear-end-rumble" -
Well my rear wheel bearing has spoob the bed on me today and I was wondering if I could get some tips on how to go about removing it, installing it, tools needed and what brand of bearing is the best to get. Thanks! -Lukas -
On the rear axel is there just one bearing per side and it is wide like the picture below? When I converted my drums to disks the right side looked a little on the dry side or lacking grease. Of course this was blocking my view of the lack there of, and of course this took me a few tries of putting the disc and hub on to see that it was holding me away from having proper placement of the caliper......... Anyway just one bearing per side?
-
Do they make a KYB gas adjust shock for my 1982 gl 4x4 wagon? I can't seem to find them searching in google. Does anybody know the part number if they are out there? I'm planning in running the KYB excel g/gr2 in the front and i want to run the gas adjusts in the rear. And any suggestions on where to order from? Thanks!
-
Little bump in the rump, EA82 shock mod
Gloyale posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
So recently I replaced the factory adjustables on my 86 EA82 wagon. I had the old adjustables cranked to the high setting to help clear my 215/70/15 tires. The new shocks had a spring perch that sat a bit lower, (3/4 in.) on the shock than were it was in the high position with the adjustables. So hears what I did to mimic the extra preload/height of the old ones using the new shocks. I did need a pair of old spring perches from another non-adustable EA82 shock set. lucky for me I've got tons of suba-spoob everywhere. here's the pics, pretty self explainitory New perch knocked off the new strut. Flipped over and slid back on Old set of perches slid on "correct" way to make lip to hold the spring Finished, spring perch raised about 3/4 inch from factory setting. Note this mod takes away a tiny bit of the "uptravel" of the shock. About 1/2 inch. Which for me is fine since I don't want the tire to be able to "stuff" too far into the wheel well and rub. -
THE DEFINITIVE REAR E-BRAKE RETROFIT SOLUTION! ► This writeup is intended for the '84 ~ '94 Subaru GL / Loyale \ EA82 Models which are the third gen of the Subaru Leone, however, you can retrofit the Rear disc brakes' system, from the EA82 lineup (third gen), to the EA81 lineup (second gen), and then, what I written here also will apply on the previous generation. ► "e-Brake" and "Park Brake" means the Same for this writeup. ► There are other Ways to swap a Rear e-Brake, but Usually they include expensive and / or hard to find parts, from Legacy or Impreza, even parts from the XT6, etc ... Here I want to explain an Easier and pretty inexpensive Way to do a Reliable Retrofit with Amazing Results. pay attention to the Important Notes... Warning! - Use this information at your Own Risk A Brief Introduction: Those of us who own a Subaru that came with Front e-Brake and always desired to retrofit a reliable Rear e-Brake system, but was afraid about the Parts Needed, the works to be done and the Results; here I will do my Best to Guide you in this Step by Step Photo Procedure to do it Right & Easy. Different reasons might have each one to do such Retrofitting; mine is that the Front e-Brake on my Subaru BumbleBeast after all these years and thousands of miles of Rude use, became too rusty & worn that leaked brake fluid; no matter if that was just rebuilt... So I Got rid of the Front e-Brake as you can see pics, ~► Here, from Post Nº 61. First Part: Your Subaru Must have Rear Disc Brakes. My Subaru "BumbleBeast" already had the Rear Disc Brakes from a Turbo Loyale, as you can see, ~► Here; Having the Rear Disc Brakes makes this Retrofit much easier, because if your subie Still has rear Drum Brakes, you'll need to Find a good Set of Rear Disc Brakes for your Model, Prior to do this Conversion. Second Part: Background Information. I've read & Heard about Rear e-Brake conversions, using Nissan's parts, usually because both Nissan & Subaru used Brake Parts made by the same Japanese "Tokiko" Brand, but that parts aren't exactly a Direct fit and you must do certain works to make them Work; as you can see & Read, ~► Here, and ~► Here, but also I've heard that the e-Brake on Nissans with Rear Disc Brakes, is Weak because isn't very well designed... So, Forget about Nissan parts! Third part: How I Found the Donor Car & Parts Used. So, I Went to Hunt for Parts to do my Rear e-Brake Retrofit at our local Junk Yards (Called here: "Yonkers" more info and photos ~► Here) and miraculously I Found in one of those, a Subaru 1986 Turbo Sedan that still had its Rear Disc Brakes intact -beside some Rust & Dirt- also many other useful pieces & Parts. I Took out a Rear Trail arm from it, to do many Tests with its Disc Brake, in order to Find the Proper Calipers that could Fit there easy, also without any Risk to the Security on the Road. I Tested Nissan 200 and 240 Calipers there but I Don't liked the way they fit, because was somehow a Little "Forced" and the 4WD subies will have problems with the e-Brake Cable levers on the Nissan's calipers, 'cos they must be in the way of the Rear Axles... Long time ago, I Read that Certain Honda Accords with Rear Disc Brakes, has very similar calipers to the Subaru ones; ~► Here; So I Started to Search within Hondas with Rear Disc Brakes. Found the Perfect Donor in a '92 Honda Accord with Rear Disc Brakes, like this one: I Removed one of its Rear trail Arms too and I Started to figure out, how to Fit the Honda's Rear Caliper onto the Subaru's Rear Disc. This is the Subaru's Rear Trail Arm: This is the Honda's Rear Trail Arm: As Written above, Subaru uses the Japanese brand "Tokiko" for their Brake parts, while Honda Uses the also Japanese brand "Nisin" for their Brake Parts; but Despite that both Rear Calipers Looked Very Similar, they're Very Different at the Same Time; because the Honda's "Nisin" has built-in e-Brake and a Special protective Metallic Cover; while the Subaru's "Tokiko" has Nothing like That. The Honda's "Nisin" e-Brake System Looks very much Better Designed & Protected than the Nissan's "Tokiko" Design for Sure.- 9 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- Loyale 2.7 Turbo
- Disc Brakes
- (and 8 more)
-
Modifying the Rear Spindle's Locking System (for Front wheel Drive -2WD- EA82 Subarus) _________________________________________________________________ When is Needed to do Service on Ball Bearings or Brake Pads / shoes on the Rear wheels of a Front Wheel Drive -2WD- EA82 Subaru, you'll notice that the Drum / Disc is held in place by a simple Nut which is prevented from spin freely by a Locking twistable Washer that Locks everything, and with time and repeated Twistings on and off, such washer trend to Break. Sometimes is even worse, the worn Washer Breaks / Fails \ Loosens the Nut while the Car is in Motion and it Makes the Bearings to Loose its tightness and can lead to a Huge Bearings Fail, Damagin' the Spindle and even it can lead to Loose a Wheel and Make a Huge Fat Crash... So, I Decided to get rid of the Washer Locking System, for a More Safer Option: I installed a Safer "Castle" Nut instead of the regular Nut, and I Drilled a Transversal Hole to the Spindle, where the castle nut settled, to Cross both the Castle Nut and the Base with a twistable Nail. Images Worth thousands of Words... See: Drilled the Transversal Hole on the Spindle, and placed the New Castle Nut Closer Perspective: Already with the Nail Crossed and Twisted: Finally, with the Original Cap ...... it Works Great! Finding a Castle Nut with same Thread and with Small Width to fit there, was very hard, I Found mines on an aftermarket store; the salesman told me they belongs to the steering arms of a '97 impreza ¿ ? I Hope this Idea Could Help Many FWD Subies Owners ... ... Kind Regards.
