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Showing results for tags 'relay'.
Found 24 results
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So I have had a recurring problem with my 1990 loyale not wanting to start. It was intermittent but got worse as time went on. Symptom: When car was hot or from a cold start, when I turned the key I would hear a clicking sound coming from the engine compartment. I would turn the key over and over again until it would finally turn over (sometimes it would take 50 times!). Car would run fine after starting. Attempts to Fix: Replaced coolant temperature sensor: A lot of posts on these causing hot starting issues. Did not fix the problem. Replaced starter: nope. Cleaned all battery connections and connections to starter: didn't fix problem Changed out battery and replaced with new one: still had same issues Actual Fix: After reading up on the USMB forums and on other toyota forums I discovered that the early Subarus do not have starter relays. As the wiring gets older and more worn out, the power going to the starter diminishes. The fix is to put a relay in between the starter and the ignition. Some people recommend buying a cheap headlight relay and wiring it in yourself. You can look up starter relay or ignition relay yourself to find instructions. Not being a mechanic myself, I chose this kit: Bosch WR1 Starter Relay Kit http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-WR1-Starter-Relay/dp/B001COAX78 The kit comes with a relay, all the wires, and easy to follow instructions including a wiring diagram. It took me 20 minutes to wire up and made the whole process a breeze. Mystery Solved! Starts up without hesitation. For $25.00 this was a cheap and painless fix (once I figured out the actual problem) Hope this helps some of my fellow vintage sub owners. Peace!- 7 replies
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Vehicle: 1986 Subaru GL Wagon, Dual Range 5 Speed, Carbureted, Weber 32/36 Converted Issue: No longer getting Fuel Pump Signal to the Pump. It would be intermittent, but now seems to be consistent with getting no Signal. I've heard from @Gloyale that the 6 pin Fuel Pump Controller (Relay) only sends power to the pump when there is a Tachometer Pulse on the yellow wire... Is that Signal originated from the Distributor? Also I've heard from @GeneralDisorderin regards to the Controller, that: "The wire going to the pump is usually a blue with red stripe. The control unit will also have a yellow tach signal, black ground wire, and an ignition hot supply (white I think)." Background: The problem began intermittently... if I had an issue with the pump, I could either add Fuel directly to the carburetor to prime the system. Or, I could apply power directly to the Fuel Pump to also Prime the system. Occasionally I would have to do both in order to get the vehicle to run. Once the pump was working, it would not cut-out mid-trip. Not until the vehicle was turned off and then tried to be re-started later; would an issue happen, where I would have to do one off the pre-mentioned priming methods. Now the pre-mentioned priming methods no longer work... What kind of tests can I do to see what needs replacing? I'd like to have the wiring stay this way it was from the factory... however if not I could wire the fuel pump to a switch, racecar style... I'm not sure though; does the tach Signal increase/decrease pump speed based on engine speed? Thanks for reading, hope to keep my Wagon on the Road! -
The video tells the story!!! The left turn signal switch will activate flashing in bulbs other than the turn signal bulb! https://youtube.com/shorts/AtWGv5Lt3ns?feature=share -
So i lost my spare key the other day, it was the last one i had left and was out in the woods so we had some mcgyvering to. Got it hot wired under the hood but the steering wheel lock still works so straight was our only option. We tear the steering column apart (its a gambler style car not worried about breaking things) to get the key cylinder out, that was easy, got the car started, great, got home. Next day went to start it, no choke on it cuz of weber carb, so i was warming it up.... it died, went to start up again dash light and heater/radio all the auxiliaries came on turned it over and they all faded out. no power nothing, checked battery cables just fine, fuseable links on coil are fine (maybe the hotwiring fubard it). Heres what strange to me while trying to figure out wtf is goin on we hotwired it under the hood again and it starts up runs drives, power to everything dash/radio/etc. turned it off, no power to anything with key switch still. Checked all fuses checked voltage of harness under steering wheel, 12v, I am out of ideas, and leads? is there are relay or something im missing that went out? please heeeeeelp meeeeeh. Thanks!
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A little background: My RX has no A/C. The passenger's side window wiring is damaged and sometimes doesn't like to roll back up, so I don't use it. In the heat we're starting to get around Seattle this means driving with the HVAC fan on high with the driver's side window open to stay cool. Last week I noticed that after parking for a quick errand, when I got back in and restarted the car, the blower fan simply refused to turn on. Fan speed doesn't matter, HVAC mode doesn't matter, HVAC temperature doesn't matter. It seems that if I leave the car sitting the fan will eventually come back to life, but there is nothing you can do in the meantime (once it took a full day to come back, just yesterday it only took an hour). I did some research, found this thread, but was wondering if anyone has experienced this issue in the past and could save me some troubleshooting time. -
Hello, Back ground info: I have a 1994 Legacy Wagon. 2.2L, AWD, NA, 200,000 + miles. Conditions: 25 degrees for the past month. Snow on the ground. Recently replaced the Alternator. -- Problem -- Today I started my Legacy and it fired up like always. I drove about 3 miles. Motor warmed up like it should. All was running normally. I pulled into a gas station and filled my tank. Back out on the road, the motor began to run poorly. I could not accelerate, the motor lacked power. The check engine light NEVER came on. As I drove forward the car seemed to buck back and forth, yet the tach remained at a set RPM. Back home, I looked the car over. The car would run and Idle. The exhaust smelled sort of sour. There were some sounds of a miss fire. The motor did not bounce or vibrate as if to be running on 3 plugs. I could rev the motor up to 3K with no complaint. I let the motor cool. Then tried to drive it down the street. The problem had not gone away. Now, the motor will not fire up. When I turn the key to the RUN position, 3 seconds after I get a wild relay clicking sound coming from under the hood. While this sound is happening the fuel line going from the fuel filter to the motor (injectors) is pulsating to match. BUT, the lines coming from the fuel tank are not pulsing. Also, the check engine light comes on and matches the relays click sounds. And the tach needle bounces wildly. The motor will turn over but will not fire up now. I mentioned that I'd changed the alternator, just in case someone might have a connection. I changed the alternator two weeks ago and the car has run perfect since them. Also the cold weather has been on the ground here for the past month or so. I recall replacing the alternator in an icy cold wind storm. The pulsing fuel line from the motor to the fuel filter is a good clue. But I cant find any relay in the area that matches the clicks. I've felt the injectors and they are not making any sound or movement. If you might have a hint, please send it my way. Thanks for reading this. Rog -
2015 legacy, 24k 2.5 Premium Car starts cold without issues If run to store and restart, takes a few times to start. Cranks but doesn't turn over. Does eventually start. Recently had main relay recall completed wth-68 Also they completed following update 11-162-16 11-162-16R Since taking in for the previous stated recall and update, I've had the same issues. Rafferty Subaru didn't have issues starting while in their shop. Anybody have similar issues? -
Yesterday I removed the blower motor for diagnostics and replaced its relay near the in-cabin fuse box of my 2004 Outback Limited. Replacing the relay solved the problem with the blower motor. When putting the blower motor back in place, however, I had to really pull and mush on a large mass of wires that runs directly below the blower motor. It was not a simple task to take the motor out or put it back due to this large group of wires (roughly 1-2 inches in diameter) running right under the blower motor with very little room to budge. Immediately after getting the motor back in position, my car would not start and the fuel pump relay would buzz madly with the key in ignition. The stereo receiver died and the lights on the dash were dying. After turning my car off, a part under the hood began to buzz and all the electrical equipment began to rhythmically click and turn on/off. I disconnected the battery and went to bed. I messed something up when getting the blower motor back in. I pulled wires loose or damaged them. The wires branch off after passing the blower motor, some running to the blower and the rest running up the passenger side of the car. When getting the motor back in I pulled on a small black circle with three little holes in it, above where the passenger would rest his feet. It appeared to feed into the group of wires and run out to the engine compartment. Maybe this is important. Any information regarding troubleshooting or what could be wrong with my car would be very helpful. Thank you. Attached are pictures of items I mentioned in the post: the fuel pump relay, the part under the hood that buzzes, the group of wires under the blower motor, and the black circle with the three holes in it.
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Hello all - 1996 Legacy L sedan with 218,000 miles and an IN-CAR head gasket job completed last month (oh my back! ). Car has been running through 2 tanks of gas with no problems. During mile 38 on 40 mile freeway drive at 2:30am, the electrical system on the car suddenly shut down and I coasted the car to a stop on the road shoulder. Hazard blinkers were functional, along with interior lights and power locks. High beams would turn on brightly, but since the headlights/parking lights are tied to the ignition, these were not operable. I could only conduct a few quick checks roadside: - bang on fuel pump - directly since I took the access plate in the trunk off. Done this routine before on several cars . - check tight battery connections - recently cleaned during head gasket replacement last month - this was fine. - timing belt intact - all fuses in engine bay and under dash continuity checked ok - starter cranked the engine, but the engine simply would not start Then the car got towed home the last 2 miles of my intended drive. Fortunately a flatbed tow truck showed up in 10 min via AAA and I was home only 30min after the mess. - I had to help the tow truck driver get into the shifter plate to manually override the shifter interlock so he could put the car in neutral. With the key-On position, the solenoid for the shifter interlock would not move......no elec power going to it. I have since conducted these tests: - battery voltage in good standing is 12.65V - alternator removed, tested and passed - ohmed out coil pack - pass. No burn throughs. - grounds confirmed good - removed and cleaned again anyway - checked all fuses and the main fusible link with ohm-meter - none blown - pulled and checked all engine connector harnesses (bell housing, MAF, igniter, ECM under the passenger floor). - checked continuity on all positions of the ignition switch - pass. Getting 12V to the backside of the switch by probing the solder points. - pulled and cleaned crank and cam position sensors - not much interesting there. Here's the fun part : - none of the warning lights on the dash will light in the Key-On position - this is what I find very disturbing. . - Starter/solenoid happily cranks the engine, but won't start. I have experienced bad start contacts before - this isn't the what is going on here) - cannot read ANY CEL codes because there is no power to the ECU when Key-On - fuel pump will not turn (can't hear a click from the pump relay anyway) - shifter interlock still not operable because of no power going to its solenoid - tied to ignition key-on. I could start changing out crank/cam position sensors, coolant temp sensor, MAF, etc.....but none of these single point items can easily explain why the entire power circuit is not operating. Even if the ECU died, I should still get direct power up to it. In looking at the wiring diagrams, I am thinking the ignition relay (the brown, really-hard-to-reach-one under the dash) might have conked out. This is the only way I can think of that I can still crank the starter, but hot have any electrical controls that drive the fuel pump, the warning lights, and the ECU. I'm going to attempt to get at the ignition relay today to pull and test it - that will take me all morning and lots of scrapes on arms. Any other suggestions are most welcome as I try to figure this out. -
Hi, this is regarding my fathers car, a 2005 Subaru Baja AT Turbo, about 110K miles. At one point, his passenger side turn signal lights came on and stayed on (solid, not flashing). They are on even when you take the keys out of the car. To be specific, it's the front and rear pass. side turn signal lights, and the front pass. side parking light (which is affected because it would normally flash along with the turn signals), so 3 lights. On the dash the pass. side turn signal indicator (the green arrow) is lit up and always on too. The Drivers side turn signal lights work fine, they flash normally. But, when you push the hazard switch in, the drivers side turn signal lights come on and stay on like the pass side. There is no relay click when you do this, only the click of the switch when you push it in. Using the drivers turn signals and the keyless entry unit, we were able to track down 3 modules that make clicking noises & cause lights to flash, two when you use the drivers side turn signals (one with a black plug under the drivers dash, mounted to the steering shaft, and a larger one, on the left side of the drivers side foot well up under the dash. It has a white plug). The third one is the keyless entry/security module, it's behind the glove box. We unplugged all three modules to no effect, the pass. side lights mentioned are still lit up solid. Is there another relay that we couldn't find (and if so, where is it?) or is there possibly a problem with the hazard switch? Thank You. -
Hey, so I've tried searching all around to fix my current issue with my fuel pump not running. The engine cranks over but its not getting any fuel due to the fuel pump not starting. I've pulled the fuel pump out and tested that it's working. Checked the relay and I am pretty sure that its working, it is clicking but still not getting any power to the black/red wire. I was getting power to it for a bit but not exactly sure as I only have a test light that got bright and slowly dimmed out. Could it possibly be just a bad relay that is causing it to not get power or is it shorting out somewhere. I've been wanting to pull out the blower relay to test it with that one but getting to that is a pain and how the weather has been the past couple of days I haven't gotten to it. Also have checked the fuses and those are fine. At this point I'm thinking about just wiring the fuel pump to the battery. Any help with what could be causing this or ideas would be very much appreciated. -
im sorry if this already exists elsewhere but i literally could not find anything about it including on the internet, if anything, it thinks im searching for a back up light switch, if one post already exists, please direct me to it. ive been wanting to do this project for quite some time now but i literally don't know where to start, i want my blinker to turn off and on instead of on and off, ive been running my car with the amber lights on for about 2 years now and using the corner parking light as my blinker, law seems fine with it so i want to step it up a notch, i want my amber lights to blink off and then come back on as i have it on with the virgin switch, and have my parking light on all the time once again like it should be. is there a kit where a small computer can do this online? the only thing i can think of is a double relay but that means that atleast one relay must be on all the time and ill end up with a dead battery anyways, if that idea even works. any help is greatly appreciated!!! thank you.
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What pins on the relay (real picture) correlate with the numbers of the pins in the drawing? Trying to rig up my LED bar and I have a lot of these relays so it'd be very convenient to use these
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So Im splicing wires in for my ej swap (1984 carbed EA82) and I come across this thing http://puu.sh/gCupo/4435aa9542.jpg Up above the hood latch release (where I was expecting to find the FPCU) so I think, black box, above hood latch, must be it. But now I'm not too sure since it only has 4 wires and no mitsy diamond logos, and if this isn't my fpcu, where should I be looking? or have I got this all wrong and my car just has a fuel pump relay? Cheers, Thomas
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Hi all, This is my first post after having lurked these forums for a while. I have a 1997 Legacy Outback that has been slow to start this winter. When I start the car for the first time of the day, there is generally a fraction of a turn over, but it won't start. It seems like something is "sticking", and that after a few tries, it unsticks. I try this somewhere between 2-6 times, and it will finally start and run just fine. Then, throughout the day if it hasn't gotten too cold, it will start right up on the first try. This morning I had the same issue in which it took about 6 attempts before it fully turned over and started right up. I then went to the gas station and filled up, and had the same issue trying to start it at the gas station. However, this time, it seems like the starter stayed engaged. It made a lot of noise while I drove it for about a half block before pulling over and turning off the car. The car continued to try to start for a few seconds after I removed the key. I let it rest a few seconds, and then started it back up just fine. Now, I have the check engine light on. Any input on what this could be? I've tried to narrow it down to a starter solenoid, or maybe the starter relay, but I wanted to share my specific symptoms and see if you all had any ideas. Thanks for your time! -
I must be blind or stupid, but I can't find my fuel pump relay. Nor can I find the location listed anywhere on here or the Internet. So, I turn to my fellow Subaruians, anyone know where the bastard's hiding? I need to replace him. Also, the 85/86 XT's are unique in their wiring setups, at least according to my craptastic Chilton manual. And even more-so because it's a bloody turbo. So, anyone have any ideas? Every location has been checked aside from putting the car on a lift and scouring the underside. Also, it specifies the relay sits between the EGR valve and the fuel pump in the wiring harness. This may or may not help depending on if anyone's torn down a harness or not. Twitch -
I downloaded the manual and have searched the forums. I am still confused? Any tips? when I bought the car, they told me to pop the hood and remove the relay to turn the fan off and on? I messed with swapping some relays and thought I fixed it, but found my battery drained and a very hot relay? WTF? something grounding out? also need some advice on how to get the vents working again, seems to be no vacuum? Your wisdom and experience is requested and appreciated. -
1987.5 -EA82T- fuel pump relay?
BoostedBoxer421 posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
hey everyone, this has been happening every time I start my 87.5 GL turbo recently.. as soon as I turn the ignition on to pressurize fuel, there's a relay above the boost solenoid that steadily clicks and keeps the pump going and doesn't stop pumping until I start it. I don't know what it is but would assume its the fuel pump relay since my 87.1 RX doesn't get fuel unless I use the one from my GL. what I'm trying to find out is where I can get one, because everywhere I've searched I cannot find it. the only numbers/letters on it are- JECS A15-000R00 (stamped) and 7413NA (black ink) -
A friend has a 2001 Outback vdc. The heater blower stopped blowing. It will not blow on any speed. I found fuses behind the change door to the left of the steering wheel, in addition to the fuse box under the hood. All fuses were good. Can anyone tell me where exactly is the blower relay on the 2001 Outback VDC? Thanks monk in NC -
so i recently bought a 88 gl wagon with 128XXX on it. The day after i bought it i popped a relay when i went to start it, this was after a short drive across town. i had no idea what was wrong but i narrowed it down to ignition wiring problem. took it to a shop that was familiar with Subaru's and owned one himself, but it still took him 2 week to figure out it was my starter, distributor, just a popped relay. the problem was finding the relay because it was moved from is original spot and put up in the dash. now recently i have been dealing with a starter that has been going out but only like 2 times a week, so i would hit it and it would start. (i know this doesnt last for ever) tonight i did the same thing, but instead of starting. i went to turn the key to find that it has happened again to my car. my stereo works, but no noise when i turn the key, no lights, no dom lamp because its on the same relay. im not a complete idiot when it comes to cars, but im also not super great with them. i joined here cuz i love my wagon its a great car and i need it asap for the snow thats dumping in my local mountains. any ideas what my problem is anyone?!?!?
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In This Writeup: ► Understanding How a Relay Works. ► Knowing which Wire is for, at the Round Relays. ► How to Swap the Old Worn Relays with Newer, more Capable ones. ► Finding the Location of the Relays on a Subaru EA82 (Third Gen Leone / Loyale) ► Learning to Wire New Relays if Desired... in case you wanna Run Halogens, Bigger Horns, etc... ___________________________________________________________________________________________________ First of All: I Hope this Write Up will Help anyone with Electrical Problems due to bad Relays, Such as Power Windows, Air Conditioneer, HeadLamps, Halogens ...etc... also you'll learn how a Relay Works and How to Easily Wire New Relays. You Know that when you Switch Almost Anything Electric in your any car There is a Relay Takin' the Main Job of Sending the Power to the Accesory you Switched On; the Switch that you Touch or Handle, is just a "Remote Control Signal Sender" to those Relays. Very Long Long Time Ago, I had Problems with my Subarus' Electric Powered Windows, and then Long time ago with the Air Conditioneer too, I Found that the Fault of Slow Workin' / Non Workin' Power Windows was due to a Bad Relay; Also The good ol' subies had A/C Engaging & keep workin' Compressor Problems. An Easy Fix Would be to Just Change the Round Original 22 Amps Relay, But Those Relays aren't Easy to Find, They Need the Whole 12V Power to engage Properly, they are Expensive, and they are only 22 Amps Rated ... ... Beside that at this point of the wirings' life, their Sockets (Plugs) Could be burnt too... In my Own humble opinion, the Best Solution of All is to Swap There Bosch Standard Relays. I've Done it to the Main A/C Relay, the Two Auxiliary A/C Relays, the Power Windows' Relay, and the two HeadLamps Relays. I'll Explain How To do that swap Here, with Photos. Bosch Standard Relays comes in Many Quality Brands, Not Only Bosch (By the way, I Saw Bosch's Made in Portugal, Germany and Brazil, rated at different Amps) There are many Other Brands that Make the Bosch Standard relays, like Hella, Wagner, Flösser, Osram, Sylvania, Potter & Brumfield ... etc ... so They are Easy to Find, They are Cheaper than stock round relays, and Give Better / Faster Response; they just need as Little as 8 Volts to Engage, also Bosch Standards are more Reliable, and are Rated from 30 Amps to 40 Amps, so They'll Last Longer too ... ... Warning! - Please Forget about Cheapo bad quality relays. In Example, This is a photo of a "Potter & Blumfield" 40 Amps Relay, Made in USA, The one that I've Swaped in, instead the Main A/C Relay Under the DashBoard: But to Swap a Bosch Standard Relay in your Subie, You'll Need to Cut off the Subie's Plug and Weld there a Bosch Standard Plug ... Or use an Adaptor. I'll Explain How to do That Too, is Easier than you Could Imagine, but keep Readin' Carefully, and Do Not Forget to Remove one of the Battery Terminals prior to Start Cutting / Welding any Wire. Please: Be Careful While doing this, follow this instructions at your own Risk. The Plugs' Swap is needed to be Done just once for each Relay Unit; then in the Future if you Need to Change any Bosch Standard Relay, the Plug Stays, you only Need to Pull the old Relay from it, and put there a Fresh New Relay; and That's it!- 6 replies
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Ever wonder what the plaque that says "this vehicle equipped for the installation of optional A/C" means? Driving yourself crazy looking for why your fan has no power and can't find the relay? Well here's part of it. First off, unless you have "Subaru" A/C.....you don't have a relay. Later EA81 Blower circuits are setup with a connector, that provides for the Non-a/c fan circuit, to be bypassed......and run through a new relay.......bringing power for the blower fan through a single 20 amp glass fuse taped up in the harness. I believe this leaves the original blower circuit extra electrical capacity to power the compresor clutch, fan relays and pressure switches,etc.... Here is a pic of the jumper that is in the setup from the factory on non-a/c cars. This connector is up under the dash, right below the column, coming out of the big bundle on it's own 20" or so pigtail. The glass fuse is wrapped up just a bit closer to the fuse box. And Here is what the circuit looks like after Dealer installed Genuine subaru A/C setups And here's the thread that made me tear apart 2 dashes trying to find this sucker cause it was driving me nuts.......Never had to look for an EA81 blower relay before http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/140151-brat-blower-motor-relayproblem-solved/
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Hi, I've recently gotten a 2001 Outback Limited Sedan [2.5L AWD, no turbo], and the Cigarette lighter just stopped working. I was right in the middle of inflating my mini-spare with a so-called "Truck-Air" tire compressor. It's just bigger and faster and works better than the micro mini ones you see everywhere. Problem is, it also draws more juice, and I have to run it for 1.5 min. then "rest" for 5, then another 1.5 mins. If I run it longer, the lighter socket fails (yeah, I'm an idiot for forgetting to rest the circuit. HOWEVER, The fuse at the fuse box is ok. I found no burned fuses at the dash fuse box at all. This issue also happened with my '94 legacy 2.2. using the same air compressor. Under a minute duty cycle, it worked fine over and over, but after about 1.75 minutes it stopped and the lighter was dead. My Subaru mechanic guru at the time said something to the effect of "generally, over-drawing the lighter in the non-outback legacies often burns out a wire at the back of the lighter, something 'it's a basic repair', but one that takes considerable time to get at from behind the lighter unit, and he didn't recommend I spend my hard-earned money on it. I did as he suggested & simply added a 3 way accessory adapter and wired it in using a 'piggyback fuse adapter' to an existing 20 amp circuit that wasn't overloaded or critical to anything [airbags etc]. It worked fine. It was easy to get to the front AND behind the box to access the wires. NOT SO in the 2001 Outback. The redesign from '94 to 2001 seems to be intended to make it completely impossible to easily work on any of the wiring [just pull and check mini-fuses] and I can't use the piggyback fuse tap, since the front of the fuse box is butted directly up against the coin tray. There's no room. After realizing that I'd have to take apart much of the dash [neck arthritis] to even get to the back of the fuse box, I decided to try one of those "unused" connectors that one finds hanging about under the dash [NOT the code readers etc]. Usually the loose ones are for options you didn't get, or for other models with the same basic harness. I found 12 volts at one lead, cut stripped it and connected a pigtail 'split off' the wire. I reattached everything and checked for power, and when I did the horn honked for just a nano-second. Didn't think much of it. Looking back, I think [just my luck] I split off what is probably the 'unused' car alarm wiring [i have no car alarm], since everything tested fine for power and ground, BUT when I plugged my ipod charger in to the accessory adapter the car horn started sounding continuously. There HAS to be a better, smarter, easier way to do this. Are there other fuses or relays that could have fried under the load from the air compressor causing only the cig lighter in the car to fail? Everything else in the car works, and all fuses at the box test good. I'd REALLY like to repair the orig. cig lighter, but only IF I don't have to disassemble the entire console and half of the dash, trashing my arthritic neck in the process. Any ideas? I have the Haynes manual for the car, but I've had so many 2.2L Legacies (5) which were easier to work on, I'm a fish out of water here. Suggestions? I don't see any help in the Haynes manual. -
I have a 93 impreza wagon. I recently switched the normal signal bulbs out for led bulbs. Since the leds draw less power, the car thinks a bulb is out and therefore causes the signals to flash very fast, almost to the point on a sunny day where they cannot be seen. I know I need a flashed relay of 5 ohm or less, however Ive stumped the guys at my auto parts store because they don't have one. Has anyone else ran into this problem? What I need to know is if anyone knows of a part # or which flashed relay I need to get?
