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Hi all, I'll most likely be purchasing a forester (2006-2008) or OBW (2005-2009) soon from an auto-auction. 5-speed much preferred. Plan is to spend about $500-$750 for something with decent interior, okay exterior, and something under 150k miles. Right now, I'm assuming that anything I get will have leaking Headgasket(s), and will have been run low on oil. Some of the auction sites have videos of the motors running, and they often have rod-knock. I need a dependable vehicle for the next 5 years, and I'm also pretty broke being in grad school. I can only afford something in the $5k-6k range, and everything I find is hyper-mileage and/or : leaking HGs, bad power steering pumps, leaking rocker covers, etc. AND people don't want less than they're asking. Just looked at an '06 Baja with 180k on it... guy said it was mint. They wanted $7k for 4 miss-matched bald tires, air-filled ps pump, leaking HG, leaking rear main, +1 quart overfilled oil, and a sticker over the check engine light that said (and I'm not joking) "Prayer helps". I don't want to be doing a lot of time-consuming general maintenance while I travel to/from my clinical observations, so I'm considering purchasing a JDM-imported engine, a remanufactured engine, or an oem subaru shortblock... Questions: If I purchase a JDM import, do I put new gaskets in right away before putting in the car? They're supposed to have 50-60k miles on them... Should valves be looked at? Costs about $2500 There's a store on ebay selling a remanufactured long block for $3400, and a 3-year unlimited mile warranty. They have 100% feedback as well. Is that a decent price? (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Reman-06-10-Subaru-2-5-SOHC-with-Active-Valve-Lift-System-Long-Block-Engine/392273889947?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908131621%26meid%3D1be2c92c13164e4abb215bcaf145c0f3%26pid%3D100678%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D9%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D254707892452%26itm%3D392273889947%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100678.m3607&_trkparms=pageci%3Aded9a85d-f60f-11ea-bc4a-74dbd180c969|parentrq%3A8991b27f1740ada5af08721ffffff85c|iid%3A1) Subaru Genuine shortblock for about $2000 shipped to my front door. 12-month unlimited warranty, and doesn't need to be installed by a subaru shop. This is for the stock EJ253 block. Should I get a different block? EJ257? I'm not looking for anything but a leak-free, dependable engine/drivetrain. What headgaskets should I use to replace the SOHC paper-like-gaskets? 04-06 STI MLS headgaskets? I have a low-mile 5mt to go with the car. Even if the body is messed up a bit, as long as the drivetrain is solid, that's what i really care about. Any thoughts or suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks guys. Greg -
Friends, I have a '93 Legacy wagon with 230k. In early February I swapped my failing alternator with the '96 reman (see http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/142320-weird-electrical-pulsing-93-legacy-wagon/ for details). Yesterday, I was driving home from work, and I could tell something was very goofy with the electrical system (started funny, delay/loss of power in acceleration, blinkers sounded weird). When I got home and shut off the engine, it would not restart - won't even turn over at all. This is the exact behavior I had recently when a squirrel chewed through my alternator wire - which I repaired. My assumption, therefore, was that my splice had come loose somehow, or some other wiring issue. The two-wire connector is just fine...reading a little under 12V to the battery and also impedance is 0 to the battery. So that's not it. However, the big two-wire socket connector on the top - weird stuff there. I just put this in a few months ago, and the nut and bolt are super corroded. I removed the nut and found that it had partially fused with the bolt - both are screwed up and I cannot get the nut to tighten down anymore. Appears the bolt may have to be replaced...if that's even possible...I'm going to get a free AAA tow to my mechanic on Monday morning. The big question is: what would cause rapid corrosion and metal fusing on that connector?? Could it be related somehow to using a different alt than spec? A sign of a different electrical problem? Also, could this possibly have anything to do with my latest squirrel problem? (see http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/146230-93-legacy-code-21-coolant-temperature-sensor/) (I have since added split tubing to EVERY exposed wire under the hood. Sigh.) THANKS!!!