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Showing results for tags 'repair'.
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85 BRAT, where is AC thermostat? I want to locate every component. Pic
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I have a 2001 Subaru Forester L with auto trans. I started hearing a really loud clunking noise (as the wheels turn) as I was driving near my house. I immediately took it back to my garage. The noise is very brutal, as in something is ready to break and break badly. The motor and everything jerks pretty bad with the noise while the wheels are rotating. First inspection, it had a really bad busted inner CV joint on the passenger side front, which I noticed had lots of play. Replaced with a new axle, but the problem is still there, no change at all. It really sounds like the noise is coming from inside the transmission, like the front differential is ready to go??? It only makes the noise when running in gear while driving or with all wheels lifted off the ground. It doesn't seem to make the noise / jerk when turning the wheels by hand. I took a rather large video (over 150MB) so I'll provide a link to the video below, any help would greatly be appreciated. https://sendvid.com/om7qyxz4 -
Hey, all, I’ve got a 2012 Subaru Impreza 2.0i and was wondering if there’s any way that someone could hypothetically help me with some instructions on how to delete my cat. I’ve got the base model, no sport, WRX, WRX STI or any of that. Your help would be greatly appreciated. -
Got a 2008 Subaru Legacy, I just noticed a large chunk of my timing cover has fallen out. I was looking for a replacement piece, but they all come in 3 parts and for some reaso, my cover is 2 parts with a larger left side. I still have the chunk that fell out would i be able to make a temporary repair for now?
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(updated with the answer) Symptoms: The transmission on my 5 speed 2000 Legacy GT (AWD) sounds like an angle grinder or go-cart (grinding/buzzing/putting noise). Started making noise overnight, in every gear and in neutral, sounds like something rotating/grinding and is proportional to the car's speed. When the car isn't moving there isn't any noise. Another interesting thing is that in 5th gear (possibly others, but most noticeable in 5th) it makes noise with 0 throttle, less noise with 1/8th throttle, and then more noise again if you go past that. What more knowledgeable friends have said: A trusted mechanic said it's probably a bearing in the transmission, but he doesn't work on them so I'm not confident he knows the exact issue. A good friend said he had a similar issue on his 2000s era Forester, and it was the center differential, but I've heard that if the differential is the issue, the symptoms will get worse while making tight turns, and I haven't experienced that, at least at low speeds. Possibly relevant info: I had a rear tire replaced this past summer, they didn't shave it down. I measured them and it was essentially the same size. Maybe a small difference in diameter caused an issue? ANSWER: I'm transcribing from the mechanic so this may not be 100% accurate: The transfer gear was split, which damaged/destroyed center differential (and the back clip came off). The transfer case damaged as well. The mechanic said it was just normal wear and tear, so I'm not sure if this had anything to do with one of the tires being replaced. -
Hi there! I'm trying to replace my left tail lamp (busted it while unloading a kayak), I'm wondering if it's possible to remove the socket and wire part # 84981FJ070 from the broken tail lamp in order to place it in the new tail lamp I bought? If so, how do you get it out of the old assembly? I'm not seeing a release tab or anything. Thank you!!! I'm just a normal girl trying to save some money by doing a repair myself
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Hello! I am in a situation where I received a mint condition Subaru Forester 2007, no turbo, ej25. The only issue with this car is the fact that it had a front accident which busted an engine cylinder, I am looking to replace the engine as a whole and am looking at local pull-a-part's to buy the engine. My question is if anyone more knowledgeable about Subaru's can suggest which Subaru engines will be compatible with this model (apart from obviously finding the same model). From my research, I've heard there are certain Impreza and Outback models that have the engine, but I am not entirely sure so I thought I'd ask. Any help is appreciated! Thank you. -
the wiring sins of my forefathers
jimhickcox posted a topic in Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
I've had my '79 Brat for a year or so and, as you'd expect, things occasionally go wrong and then I yell at the car with a wrench and then it's okay again, generally. Right now my biggest headache is a series of minor electrical issues, which for a while had my headlights not working, but since I got them on I've been mostly ignoring. My horn won't beep, though, and that's going to be an issue come inspection time in February, so it's time to deal with it. In my adventures around the guts of my car I've found lots of electrical dead-ends and strange fixes to issues that must have come up years ago, so this seemed like the time to trace out my full harness and see what's actually going on. I diagrammed out all the wires between the battery and the firewall, so now I need to get into the cabin and track the dumb wires around under the console. Does anyone have any sage insight on any of this? Particularly if there's a good way to get under there without making pulling the dash apart and reassembling a major project on its own? Should I just give up and run more wires as my whims suggest and leave vestigial cabling everywhere like people have been doing for nearly 40 years? -
My '95 Legacy developed a sudden problem today. The factory alarm system started going off. The horn is sounding and the lights are flashing. Also, the starter won't work when I turn the key. I tried disconnecting the battery for about five minutes, assuming that would reset the alarm. When I reconnected the battery, the alarm immediately resumed. Opening the door causes the alarm to sound. It goes off for about 3 - 5 minutes. I tried sitting in the car until the alarm stopped, hoping that the car would then start when the alarm isn't actually sounding but, it won't. I have tried turning the key off and on a few times, as this supposedly sometimes fixes the issue... No change. The car does not have keyless entry... No FOB. Am I correct in assuming that the alarm disables the starter on this car? Is there an easy way to permanently disable or bypass the security system? Thanks in advance for your time. -
Here's the story... For a few months our 2002 4cyl outback was developing a problem where the you would turn the key and hear "click" but not start. Try it again and it would start fine and strong. As time when on there were more "clicks" before a start. Eventually, it just clicked, and no start. I tested the battey, it seems fine. so I ruled out the battery. I put the key in the On position and bypassed the relay with a jumper wire between the starter and the battery and just got the "click". So I ruled out the relay I removed the starter. Just for kicks, I attached the starter to the battery. The pinion gear popped into place and spun just fine (with no load on it). Should I be worried, or is it still the starter? -
Hey everyone! I just joined yesterday, but I've had my 2013 Impreza 2.0i hatch for a little over three years now. I'm hoping I can get some repair help. A trailer hitch on the back of a truck came out of nowhere and attacked my Impreza. Overall, the damage is pretty limited. Bumper to bumper would've been just a scratch, but the hitch punched a hole right through the plastic factory grille. The bumper is a little banged up right under the hole in the grille. I'm trying to fix this myself. Replace the grille and hide the bit of bumper damage by grinding down that little jagged edge. It looks to me like these black plastic pins are all that's holding the grille in place. Does anybody know what I need to do here? Any or expertise at all will be very helpful and appreciated. I can get the grille from the dealership, or if you have any better suggestions, from somewhere else. I'm imagining I'll need to get new plastic pins too because it looks like they're designed to go in and not come back out. So I guess you just break and replace them? Thanks! -
My Brat is a special one, but it was horribly neglected, abused, and badly repaired. I had been fixing it up when people where I lived turned out to be real lowlives who stole anything they could trade or sell for drugs, and caused an illegal eviction. I ended up homeless, living in a desolate area, and became broken down out there, with nothing close, almost a mile to walk just to get water, 6 miles to walk to get or do anything else, and what aggravates that is that I have Bursitis & Plantar Fascitis in both feet, two bad ankles and one bad knee, which means on hell of a lot of pain and difficulty. Through it all, I have been doing all I can, what little I can, to try to fix and save the Brat with very little luck. One person after another has tried to talk me into abandoning it, but I refuse to. With any luck, I may soon be able to get it started, and find myself in Lake Elsinore, CA. Are there any really gifted Subaru Mechanics or Subaru freaks in that area who could help me fix this Brat and give it the fix-up it so deserves? Thank you. -
Car shudders when coming to a hard brake and then stalls. From what I have found online, it's a known issue with 2010, 11, and 12 Legacy. I took it to the dealership and they say it is a blockage in the torque converter and that it and the transmission need to be replaced - $7500. From posts I have seen online elsewhere, most have replaced the converter ONLY for $1500. Anyone have any experience with this? And can one tell me as to why if both are replaced the cost is so high? -
Hey ya'll back again (it's been so frequent this week)...anyway... I'm looking to replace the bushings for my shift linkage (the rubber and nylon ones). I've been through page after page of DIY mods on here, but I'm really just looking for part numbers 88 GL 4x4. I could have sworn last week I ran across 2 different posts with the part numbers on them, but I can't find them and like a total idiot I didn't save them...they are somewhere lost in the web I guess... When I go to parts.subaru.com and put in my VIN nothing comes up....I went to the subaru dealer and they gave me 3 different print outs and told me to basically figure it out and call them back (lame)...so I'm hoping someone here can point me in the right direction...also wanting to replace the shift return spring...which I think is called the accelerator spring (pretty sure i saw that on here somewhere). Any advise would be great. thanks T -
Hey everyone looks like my hill holder on my 88 GL is leaking from a seal. I was curious if it's possible to replace the seals in these or if it's necessary to just get a new hill holder which is proving difficult to find. I'd rather not remove it and have to route more brake line wanna stay stock unless someone has good reason to persuade me otherwise (open to options). I'm loosing about 2TB of brake fluid every two weeks as it stands now. So yeah....possible to repair this thing? Anyone have any solutions for deleting it and maybe a MC upgrade or maybe that's not necessary? Lemme know what ya'll are thinking. TJ
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Replace 88 GL Oil pressure sending unit
YnotDIY posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Hey everyone in the process of replacing the oil pressure sending unit on my 88 GL 4x4, the gauge hasn't worked since I got the car and it's stressing me out a little. Anyway, I have a couple of questions. Planning to post this in the fix it section when everything is finished so others can benefit as well. Is it necessary to drain the oil prior to pulling the sending unit? It looks like the one on the car now is unplugged from the female spade and I'm not sure where to find the wire...ideas? There is a part directly next to the sending unit that is plugged in with a spade can I just move it over to the sending unit (doubt it.....) What's the "normal" gauge reading for oil when this thing is fixed? Thanks everyone any advise is appreciated. After this it's the fuel filter.
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if anybody has any tips on where I could find a cheap wrx, even for repair, I would appreciate it -
Hi all! Just got my first Subaru it is a 2009 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport that I recently picked up. So far it has been going great but I will notice something and can't figure out what exactly is wrong or if there is a problem to begin with. When driving I will step on the gas to accelerate and get up to 30-mph the Tachometer will rev up to about 2500-3000 until i get up to speed if I let off the gas pedal it will immediately drop down to 1000 rpm then back on the gas and back up. Just wondering what is wrong if their is a problem I will be getting the transmission fluid swapped soon as well if that will help. It is an automatic transmission as well. Thanks ahead of time everyone!! -
Hi Gang, I'm a first-time Subaru owner 'hopeful' and I am eager to know your opinion about purchasing a 2001 Forester, that has had some repairs and a lot of preventative maintenance. Thank you in advance! This is for sale by a self-proclaimed Subaru mechanic (not Subaru certified). He supposedly decided to specialize in Subarus since they represented a large percentage of what was on the road in his home state of Colorado. He buys them, fixes them, and sells them. He completed the work described below and explains that besides the cylinder heads and head gaskets, the rest was not necessary but was mainly preventative and done out of convenience since the engine was already out. He said170k miles is really not much for a Subaru that has already had the two Achilles heels replaced (headgaskets and timing belt - idler pulleys seized up on previous owner). Here's the work: Instead of just replacing the bent valves, he replaced the cylinder heads with ones from a 2003 with about 120k miles. Since the engine was out, he also did the following: Valve grinding/lapping. Valve adjustment. Had heads resurfaced, cleaned, and leak tested. Installed new fel pro MLS head gaskets Installed new timing belt, water pump, pulleys, and tensioner. Installed new fel pro valve cover gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, and exhaust manifold gaskets. While engine was out, he went over and resealed everything that could possibly leak down the road, including the notorious pcv baffle plate, and wrist pin cover. Oil change with Castrol GTX high milage, and a coolant flush. He took the car on multiple long test drives, as well as letting it sit idling with ac on for a couple hours. The car did not overheat, nor have any issues. Engine runs great, transmission shifts like it should. Brakes, and suspension are very smooth with no creaks, clunks, or any odd noises. Ac/heat work great, all power options work. Interior is in good shape. Has a few stains on the factory floor mats, but underneath carpet is almost like new. Exterior is in amazing shape for a 15 year old car. Paint is nearly perfect. No peeling, chips, or rust. He explains the car will need nothing mechanically for a very long time and will be super reliable for at least another 100000 miles. He builds a warranty on all the work he does into the price, $3600. Is there any reason *not* to purchase this car - can I get another 100k, you think, and is this really in great shape give the two 'achilles heels' have been addressed? Thank you! -
I own a 99 subaru forester s and am in need of a solution to my worn out seats. I have the beige leather heated seats in the car and the front seats have cracking and tears in them. What can I do? I've seen leather repair kits but for the matching dye and everything it's 70+ dollars and I'm skeptical about the results. Is their any way I could get replacement oem seats for the car or is there any good aftermarket seats out there that would fit and match nicely? I'm not looking for race bucket seats just some comfortable daily driving seats. Any suggestions are appreciated -
I have a GL that I'm wanting to get prepared for long road trips and I have a Yakima box for the roof that I want to fill with some common parts that may go bad during a long trip away from civilization that I would be able to fix on the side of the road. I've acquired a mostly good parts car that I'm planning on salvaging parts from so I won't have to worry too much about cost. As my GL hasn't given me many problems in the short time I've had it, I'm not too familiar with what to worry about going bad, so my question is this: What do you guys consider some essential parts to have spares of that would also fit in a roof box and replaced on the side of the road? While I'm at it, anybody got need for parts off of a 91 Loyale push button 4wd? Trans is still good and most of the interior and body is in good shape. -
I have a GL that I'm wanting to get prepared for long road trips and I have a Yakima box for the roof that I want to fill with some common parts that may go bad during a long trip away from civilization that I would be able to fix on the side of the road. I've acquired a mostly good parts car that I'm planning on salvaging parts from so I won't have to worry too much about cost. As my GL hasn't given me many problems in the short time I've had it, I'm not too familiar with what to worry about going bad, so my question is this: What do you guys consider some essential parts to have spares of that would also fit in a roof box and replaced on the side of the road? While I'm at it, anybody got need for parts off of a 91 Loyale push button 4wd? Trans is still good and most of the interior and body is in good shape.
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Hey all. I'm in the middle of doing the ball joints and CV axles on my 1988 ea82 4wd wagon. Getting them out wasn't hard, and one side went in like a charm (with some hammer persuasion), but the passenger's side will NOT pop into the steering knuckle. I've tried PB blaster, lightly wedging the pinch bolt open with my pickle fork, lithium grease, BFH treatment, and last but not least installing the new joint into the control arm first and wedging the knuckle down onto the ball joint with a breaker bar. Anybody have any tips for getting the new ones in?? for the record I'm using ACDELCO ball joints from Rockauto, they are both identical and seem to be the same in all critical areas as the old ones.
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So since a quick search revelaed nothing on " tow bar" figured it was OK to start a thread. Figured with plenty of friend's who have trucks, and genrally doing all sorts of stupid things it would be a good idea to have tow bars on my subarus. Seems like it would make it a lot easier to get home if a buddy with a super duty could just hook up and tow me home VS calling a tow. ( at 300 miles between major towns tows get expensive) So the question : Anyone use a harbor freight tow bar on their Subaru ? I plan to use one on my 1993 2.2 legacy and my 1998 subaru outback legacy. This is the product I am looking at: http://www.harborfreight.com/5000-lb-capacity-adjustable-tow-bar-94696.html Thanks for looking and contributing. ( open thread so long as relatively on topic its good :0D ) -
So I just sunk $1300 into replacing the head gaskets on my 98 Legacy Outback Limited. Got the car back and everything was fine. Drove it up north over the weekend (~200 miles) and on the way back the engine lost power while cruising at 70MPH. It sort of lurched forward as if I were running out of gas (which I wasn't). I attempted to start the car after this and the AT Oil Temp light came on and flashed 16 times. I drove about another 1/4 mile before it died again. I got the car towed home and figured I'd take it to my mechanic the next day. Well I tried to start it and now I have nothing. No crank, nothing but a faint *click* sound when I turn the key. Anyone have this problem happen before? I can't think of anything that would cause my car to both die on the highway, trigger the AT Oil Temp light, AND no crank no start afterwards. But maybe the problems are unrelated. In either case, I'm kind of at a loss of what to do with it at this point. Any advice is appreciated.
