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Showing results for tags 'spark plugs'.
Found 7 results
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Sorry - checked and couldn’t find what I was looking for and am sure it’s here ... 2010 Subaru Legacy 3.6 - installing new plugs - OEMS - NGK SILFR6C11 - looks like they come pre-gapped at .044 - does anyone know the OEM specs of what the gap should actually be? thanks! -
Today was the day to get on with some necessary engine work. The 150,000-mile EJ202 has been stuttering at low revs and generally felt sluggish. The PO told me that the CEL light came on every so often due to the plugs needing renewal. I quietly wondered why he hadn’t done it. The leads are brand new NGK, and the distributor has been replaced by an aftermarket one. Luckily the original Hitachi remained in a box in the trunk so I have reinstalled that one. I didn’t have to search for long to discover the spark plug problem. Oil on the lead boots is due to one thing; the plug tube oil seals in the rocker cover. The plugs were in a state. No.2 cyl: so here’s my process for changing the spark plugs and seals, and checking the valve clearance whilst the covers are off: 1. put the front wheels on blocks to get underneath. 2. Remove the under guard. 3. Remove the air intake assembly, Battery and screen wash bottle. 4. Give the area a good washing as dirt must not enter the open heads. 5. I drained the oil. I believe it is not necessary, but I wanted to change it anyway. 6. I also removed the radiator fans and coolant overflow to gain access to the crank pulley, to be able to rotate the engine 90 degrees at a time for the valve clearance service. Now we are about ready to get on with the job...
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Thanks in advance to those of you reading this post... I've got a 'new to me' 04 Forester I just bought from a local Subaru Dealer, Performance Subaru in Chapel Hill, NC. It does have some character that I failed to notice prior to my purchase. A missing fuel door release handle cover, missing rear head rests, loose console latch. Ah,blinded by the excitement of being a potential Subaru owner! I had a week to get an independent inspection, post-purchase. The dealer said they would fix any significant issues, but are confident in their own thorough, in-house inspection. So, I just had a highly respected foreign car shop in town complete an inspection (Auto Logic). Auto Logic caught all of the aforementioned character flaws that I did not notice, nor which were pointed out to me during my extended, very indecisive negotiation with the dealer upon purchase. So, win for Auto Logic. They also discovered a few other issues: 1. The head gaskets are showing signs of oil seepage. An issue that they said is not urgent, but will need to be addressed down the road, as expected with Subarus. 2. The spark plug wells have oil in them. They are saying we must replace the spark plugs and spark plug valve cover gaskets (estimate $400-$500). 3. Battery is low with respect to ccas (440 of 550) and has the potential to fail in cold weather. I realize it's just a battery, but still worth noting in my opinion. The conundrum: The dealer says the first thing their mechanics look for are leaky head gaskets since it's a known Subaru issue. Had they seen anything described above when they originally inspected, particularly with head gaskets, it would have failed as a candidate for their lot and would have gone straight to auction. They are also saying the battery was tested in the same manner the shop did and it was not problematic. The Dealer Mechanic said to stop by to discuss these issues, but I am skeptical of the outcome. I hope they will take an actual, physical look again, but their lack of enthusiasm is concerning, and they remarked that I already got a 'big discount' (original sticker price, all told after dealer fees, registration, taxes, etc. was ~$7500, I ended up at $6600). So, Battle of the Mechanics. How would you recommend one who is uneducated with respect to all things automotive and mechanical proceed in this situation? Thanks in advance! Kari -
okay so i have been working on this thing for over two months now. I originally was only going to change the timing belt on my 2009 Subaru outback. I changed it and put everything back together but it wouldn't start. I took it back apart and changed the valves because they were bent, and changed the head gaskets, exhaust gaskets, intake gaskets, and the spark plugs. I put it back together and lined the timing marks and now it will not start it only backfires... it will crank but it doesn't fully start just backfires. -
So first off let me say hello, and thanks for this informative site. Im not very experienced in working on my own cars. Ive in a bit of a money crunch these days ad have decided to do some basic stuff myself. I have a Haynes manual which seems to help. Ive succesfully changed the fuel filter and replaced a cracked fuel line. The engine has been running really rough, and cutting off in the middle of the road, especially at stop lights, etc. I took it to the shop for a diagnostic and they said the spark plugs were fouled and the engine was running on three cylinders. I got some new plugs from car quest and they made sure they were gapped there for me. Nice guys, they have offered me some good info before. I changed out the plugs out no problem (didnt use a tork wrench though). The car wouldnt start. I tinkered with the plugs and tightened them a bit and got it running. But the car runs rough still, revving up and down when in park. I took for a spin and it cut off, same as before. I double checked my haynes manual and it looks like I have the wrong plugs and the gap we set it to was wrong. I just wanted to get some opinions and see what people thought, is this the problem? I cant get back to the store to get new plugs for a bit. Im hoping that this will fix the problem though. -
Recently I noticed a burning oil smell when parking our 2003 VDC 3.0L H6 after a drive, despite not seeing evidence on the floor of my garage of any serious leak. Brought the car into our very good independent garage and they found (and I also saw) an oil leak, which they said was coming from the Valve Cover Gasket and the Front Timing Cover Gasket. Alldata Repair S3000 lists the Valve Cover Gasket as 2.7 hours labor for one bank, 3.5 hours to replace both banks, with parts coming in at $29.95 for the Right, and $29.95 for the left, and $9.95 for the inner. Alldata Repair S3000 lists the Timing Cover Gasket Replace Outer Cover as 2.7 hours labor and $375.30 total. He quoted $700 total for the full job. And they are usually the best guys in both quality and price not just in town but over a dozen nearby towns. Does this sound right? Any general recommendations for this repair? I didn't have time to do it that day. The tech must have tightened up the gasket, because the leak has been very slow. Counted not more than 5 drops hitting the floor of the garage in a 24 hour period, but no doubt you can't leave a repair like this hanging or you're asking for trouble so I plan to do it this week. I figured as long as we're in there, we'll have easy access to the spark plugs and since the car is at 118,500 miles, just 1500 miles shy of the 120K inspection when sparks should be changed, might not be a bad time to change them. Any recommendations for good spark plugs?- 9 replies
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- gaskets
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Recently I noticed a burning oil smell when parking our 2003 VDC 3.0L H6 after a drive, despite not seeing evidence on the floor of my garage of any serious leak. Brought the car into our very good independent garage and they found (and I also saw) an oil leak, which they said was coming from the Valve Cover Gasket and the Front Timing Cover Gasket. While replacing the gaskets, we'll have easy access to the spark plugs and since the car is at 118,500 miles, just 1500 miles shy of the 120K inspection when sparks should be changed, might not be a bad time to change them. They won't charge extra to change the spark plugs with such easy access during the repair. Any recommendations for good quality spark plugs?