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Showing results for tags 'spfi'.
Found 11 results
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after getting the bolts out (serious slow torture on the rusted encrusted ones https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/186067-any-new-ideas-for-the-old-intake-manifold-stuck-bolt-problem ) then had to clean up the surfaces - the right side was so pitted I ended up taking it down with a medium diamond hone. The first and second image are from just scraping it with a sharp putty knife and carefully filing with a old "cross hatch" file - not happy.. so I worked it for about 3 minutes total with this medium diamond hone. Walla! did the same to the bottom of the manifold - but only removed what lines, pipes,sm0g stuff, etc. I needed to in order to lift it up only a few inches, so I had to use my selfie camera and it doesn't focus (kinda like my eyes now ) as I'm hoding the cell phone camera facing up .. kinda like holding a minature yoga pose Here's a couple of images using a "dental mirror" showing the ends of the manifold's water galley, I think I need to clean it up more BUT it was getting too cold and the wind and fog were rolling in.. .. and before I stuffed the sock in the intake port I looked down into it and I see a pile of "oxide crystals" so I'm going to make sure that intake valve is closed and try to get a skinny rubber hose attached to a vacuum cleaner down past it and knock most of it lose with a chopstick .. if yea all think that's a good idea?
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Idle problems 93 Loyale EA82, 3sp auto 2 wd 4dr sedan Idle too low stalls in cold, when warm runs fine. Idle goes high, 2000rpm? as it warms. Vacuum seem fine, no leaks ( sprayed starter fluid at all vacuum hose joints. Tap into AT vacuum line w/ vacuum gauge, is in green ~ 21", drops to maybe 15 on throttle fast press, goes right back up. to green in few secs. Raise rpm, to 2500 or 3000? Vacuum stays steady after brief dip. Can pull codes if I can identify ODB I black and green plugs, don't seem to be around fuse panel, any suggestions? Thanks for your help, Subaru made such good cars in 80's and 90s, now trying to obsolete them my limiting parts??? Anywhere I can fine new or used TBI or parts to rebuild? -
Evap/egr system is bad enough to make replacing the efi with the weber look like a good idea, but how's the ea82 to rebuild when its time to do so? Are any of the newer engines candidates for transplant/drop in instead of rebuilding the ea82? By the way, thanks for all the help I've gotten so far from your forum.
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Somewhere along the road from Alaska to Utah one of the boots of my front right CV axle blew a hole and I still haven't dealt with it properly, the axle is getting pretty noisy now. I browsed the forums here pretty thoroughly and compared what I read to the FSM Diagrams, then pulled the trigger on this axle from Rockauto which they have listed as fitting a front right 4wd MT Fuel Injected 1987 GL with my SOHC engine. After getting the axle in the mail today though I counted the splines and realized it has 25, not the 23 the manual says I'll need. So I'm wondering if anyone else has experience with this so I can know whether or not the axle will fit before I tear the car apart and count the splines on the old one?
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G'day all, I'm working on an SPFI conversion that's made its way to Oz, originally from Alaska! I'm chasing images of the setup for the intake manifold. My kit did not have an intake manifold included, TomRhere was kind enough to sort me out with one - not to put it all together and get the plumbing of the EGR, crankcase ventilation system etc correct. If anyone here that has an SPFI system that's easily accessible, could you please drop the pics below this post or in my other thread in the retrofitting subforum? I'll be especially interested in converted EA81 engines, and I'm wanting to see how the EGR exhaust pipe piece is fitted - I've read about the factory pipe from the EA82 fits to the EA81 - I don't have this pipe so I'm hoping to work something out. I also don't have any exhaust holes in my RHS head... so keen to see what the go is there. Any pics appreciated! And yes, I've done a google image search, no real good ones that are suitable for my needs atm. Regards Bennie
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I'm getting a couple ea81 turbos soon, - one with a bad bottom end, the other is assumed running condition - and I'm considering using the good ea81t in a ea82 wagon with SPFI. I don't have the ecu's or the MPFI wiring. Here's what I'm thinking: -EA81T block w stock turbo cam -EA82T Heads shaved .025", maybe not( I'm aware of the change in valve geometry) -EA82 Pistons(compression bump) -EA82 SPFI (Already in the car) Ok so I've dropped ea81's into ea82 cars before with spfi, but I have no experience with the turbo ea81s. I'm not gonna use the MPFI injectors, but they'll stay to plug the injector holes. Once I get the compression up, my big question is the EA81 cam...will it be worthwhile? Gutless(more gutless than a stock ea81 under ea82 spfi)? I'm not interested in building an ea81 turbo, but I have these parts and I wouldn't mind a running engine. I couldn't find any info in going from ea81 turbo-->ea81 non-turbo w/ spfi or weber, any input is appreciated! TIA Josh
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Hello, I have a '92 Loyale FWD 3spd that I love to death. Since it's about to start getting cold (-11 degrees on the worst day) I decided I'd try installing a remote starter as I have direct line-of-site to my car from my living room window. Obligatory pic: The super simple starter box: http://www.compustar.com/product/cs800-s/ I've dealt with wiring quite a bit before, so I consider all of my connections to be solid and well insulated. The problem: The cs800 has 2 separate 12v+ constant wires, both connected directly to the battery. Each wire has a 30a inline fuse. One of these fuses always blows as soon as I attempt a remote start. I am assuming one 12v supplies power to the starter/ign and the other 12v supplies power to the accessories. Troubleshooting: -Cut the remote-start 12v to starter wire, still blows. -Took out EVERY fuse from the fuse panel (even spfi, fuel, etc). At this point all that is drawing power from the device on start is acc, and ignition. -Went back through all my connections and made sure they were good/correct. I'm starting to wonder if my cluster has a short in it because it was the only thing on when I had all the fuses out. My next test was going to be taking out the cluster and unplugging it to see if that helps. Now, not to muddy up the waters even more, but it does seem like my car has had an existing electrical issue since I bought it. It has 12.9v when off and a little over 14v when running which seems ok. HOWEVER if at a stoplight with my blinker on, I can audibly hear and see my dash lights dimming slightly when the blinker clicks on. Also, the heater blower will run faster if I turn off the headlights, etc. I don't think this should be happening with a healthy 14v cruising down the road. Let me know if you have any ideas or further troubleshooting that I can perform. Thanks in advance. -
Hey Guys,, I haven't had the chance to research this, but it seems interesting. It says this unit has it's own built in ECU and can control ignition timing.. Only 8 connections. Could this be a viable replacement to a carbed unit without having to find a GEN3 donor SPFI and wiring harness.. What are your thoughts.. this seemed interesting. http://www.atomicefi.com/home.aspx I looked into the pricing... 2 GRAND!!!! Probably not an option for any of us.. but, still, interesting!!!
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So I got an 86 GL that has terribly blown head gasket or cracked head (quart of water mixed in oil), and I want to put my good Block from my 88 DL parts car into it and just put all the carb'd stuff off the blown engine and put in all onto the good shortblock. Is there any difference between an SPFI block and heads and a Carburated block and heads? -They're both Manual and both non-power steering Thanks everyone for any input! -
Yesterday I had posted in the 'What have you done today thread.' All I had done was to replace the upper body complete with injector, throttle return spring & FPR without removing the lower throttle body from the intake manifold. Didn't have to disturb the coolant gasket nor the TPS this way. Problem was throttle response was feeling like the car was bogging similar to a too rich jetted carb. And the telltale smell of fuel out the tale pipe when engine was cold! Not good for the cat converter. Fuel injector was supposedly a 'rebuilt' unit in the SPFI body I had bought from a seller. The Air Control was new, but a used TPS & "rebuilt" injector. Had bought another throttle body complete on a PNP 50% off day almost year ago. Why not try it? Easy experiment. Timing set at 20*, TPS adjusted correctly, good plugs & wires, distributor checked out OK, fuel pressure OK. Etc. Here's some info from the 87 FSM for anyone who needs it.
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Hi all. I set up the O-scope the other day too test a optical disty before shipping it off. Thought I would make a little video to show the process. This particular disty is an 87....that was modified for EA81 use. So it looks a bit odd..... This one had the round plug.....and in 87 the pins are different position on the ECU......so using different year dists can require swapping pins on the body side connector. The wire colors on the distys themselves did not change over the years. <embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid209.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fbb29%2FGloyale%2FIMG_1042_zps1b8d61b1.mp4&title=">
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