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Showing results for tags 'stuck'.
Found 11 results
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The gauge stays in the middle when the car is on.Even when only the ignition is on, it goes to the middle. Then back down when the car is off.Goes straight to the middle on a cold start, and stays there when warm and never moves (until I turn off the engine).I unplugged the coolant temp sensor (CTS) and turned on the ignition (not the engine) and the gauge went to the middle again. This also kicked on the cooling fans.Then I unplugged the temp sender unit (right next to the CTS) and the gauge still went to the middle again when I turned on the ignition.What is wrong here? Any ideas? -
Hi Everyone, It’s been 2 months now of researching, reading every thread I can, trying, monitoring with no success; I am now totally stuck and don’t see what else I can do to solve my issue, and this is driving me mad ^^ ! I have a Subaru Impreza Hatchback 1998, EJ15 GF1, manual, petrol, with now 190,000 km. Small engine, pretty well maintained, I change all filters and oil every 10k since I have it, the previous owner was taking care of it and I bought it after the cam belt and water pump were changed professionally by a garage., around 170k. So one day (around 187k) I noticed the car smelled a bit like overheating engine. I checked under the bonnet and noticed that the fans were not working. After more in depth checking I noticed that the lower radiator hose was cold and there was no pressure in the radiator. So bought a new thermostat and gasket (original Subaru) and new coolant, tried it with the new one and didn’t change a thing, the damn thing stays closed. Tested both thermostats in hot water, they both work fine. I then tried to run the car without the thermostat, I get good pressure, the coolant is flowing, I could properly burp the cooling system and I could see the radiator was not clogged, but surprisingly the fans still did not turn on. So I bought new temperature sensor and sender and tried again, but nothing changed, the fans don’t turn on. I checked all the fuses, under the steering wheel and under the bonnet, tested the relays with the test wires under the steering wheel and both relays and fans work fine. (I also bypassed the relays with fuses and this turns on the fans, no problem). The very weird thing is that when the thermostat is installed and the engine running, the temperature gauge comes up to the optimal position, slightly below the middle, and stays there, even though the engine keeps heating. I don’t have an infrared thermometer but I can tell by the smell and the heat, and the fact then the thermostat stays closed and fans stay off, that something is wrong and that the engine is too hot. It really smells like overheating engine and the hoses and engine are reeeeally hot. Before this began happening, when it worked well, the fans turned on and off automatically and I could tell when the thermostat opened and closed, it was all fine. I tested all sensors, new and old, with a multimeter and they all work fine, even the thermostats in hot water both open and close correctly. I contacted a mechanic friend who checked everything, he used a pretty strong product to clean the cooling system in case there would be some kind of stop-leak or stuff clogging the system, but nothing, the circuit is clean. I even used a thin brush to try to clean possible depot around the sensor areas, but nothing came out, all is clean… I also cleaned the cooling system with my garden hose, I know it's not recommended but I was out of options, I confirm that water flows through everything and came out clean. (I rinsed with demineralised water several times after this and put new coolant). I feel like I did everything I could, I don’t see what else to do. I am not sure this could be related, but (I think) this began happening the same month that someone tried to steal it, or at least I noticed this cooling issue like a month after. No big issue from these unskilled robbers, who just broke the door handle and damaged the ignition, but it took me like 2 weeks to fix this, but during this time I removed the battery from the car because I could not close it and I don’t have a garage. So the car stayed quite a long time without a battery. I thought this could have done something to the ECU (I have nearly no knowledge about this part of cars) but anyways, this should not impact the thermostat which is a purely mechanic part. So Guys, I don’t knot what else I can do. I am pretty sure that the radiator is fine, I have been driving without a thermostat since, the engine takes longer to heat and the temperature tends to decrease at high speed and increase at idle and low speeds (no fans working, remember) which seem logical to me. Also the heater core seems fine, heat turns on and off, no problem. If you have any idea what might be going on I’d be super keen hearing your opinion, this is getting so frustrating. Cheers guys, thanks for reading ! Oh and it's not a head gasket by the way, already checked, oil and coolant are fine, I changed both.- 41 replies
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hello, I have a 92 loyale and i just recently swapped the transmission to the dual range. I got the car running and drove it around for probably an hour. I had put the car into 4hi with no problems, I popped her into 4lo and the car just stayed in neutral, the transmission would still shift into all gears put just wasn't connecting to the engine. Put it back into 4hi and 2wd and still stuck in neutral. Im guessing something is up with the transfer case. in 2wd the car will occassionally move a fraction of an inch. Any ideas?
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86 GL 5sp sporadically won't move
1cor6.nine-11 posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Hi again friends. I recently had my clutch changed and immediately after, I had an issue where I would put the car in 1st or reverse, try to release the clutch and it couldn't move, making the engine bog down as if the emergency brake was on or the gears were somehow bound up. However, once I press and release the clutch, the car would take off as usual. Now it continues to bind up occasionally like that (maybe once per day) but an extra press and release of the clutch frees things up. It feels like maybe 4wd becomes partially engaged (just enough to bind - if that's even possible); however I don't understand why it would start immediately after the clutch was changed and why a press of the clutch would release it. Does anyone know what the problem is? Thanks in advance. JW 86 gl 1.8 5sp dual range 4wd -
After FINALLY getting my cv axle out of the front passenger hub to replace the bearings, the inner bearing came out with the axle! 'Tis stuck pretty good on there and I need some tips on how I can get it of without ruining a good axle. 87 FWD GL 3door
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Hey everyone. I just purchased a 1999 Outback wagon, and one of the issues to sort out is an issue with reverse (5-speed manual). When you shift into reverse, it takes a little more force than normal to engage it, or it will grind and/or pop out when you let up on the clutch. Once engaged, reverse works fine and it does not pop out of gear. The bigger problem is when you try to shift out of reverse- going from reverse to neutral takes considerable force. The shifter feels great otherwise. All forward gears are fine, the shifter isn't loose/sloppy, no vague gear changes, etc. The clutch also feels good. The previous owner reports it has been this way since the owner before him, and it has made it a year and six or seven thousand miles like this... He just got used to it. Any thoughts on where I might look first to track this one down? -
I've searched the forums but can't find this issue - I have a 2001 Forester (still going strong w/over 200K - yippee!) that has a CD stuck in the CD player. It jammed when I was ejecting it and of course, now I can't use my CD player at all. It shows that there is a CD in it but I can't unload it or load any new CDs. Basically at this point, the CD player is useless. Anybody have any suggestions how I can remove the stuck CD? Thanks in advance! Susie -
So i have an 84 GL wagon, just finished the 5speed swap. The 4wd is stuck in 4hi. not with the shift linkage or with pry-bars am i able to move it to 4low or 2wd. I'm supposed to make a few hundred mile drive tonight and I don't suspect id be doing very well on the "new" 5speed stuck in 4wd. Any clues, hints, advice would be greatly appreciated -
2002 Forester 5MT, 205,000km I am trying to remove my Rear Differential, to fix it (I think that one of the output-shaft taper-roller bearings is worn - I have a rear-end rumble & about 1mm radial & axial play on the output-shaft at the diff). But I am stuck on the first step of the procedure. I cannot get the suspension lateral-links (front & rear) disconnected. I cannot remove the long outer lateral-link bolt (#20540AA000). This has a 19mm hex head, and is about 150mm (6") long. I can remove the 19mm nut, and I can turn the actual bolt with difficulty, using lots of lubricant and a long breaker-bar. But the bolt will not move along its length to remove it. I've tried hammering on the loosened nut, but the bolt won't move. How can I remove this bolt? I'm reluctant to use heat, as this will destroy the rubber bushings. But maybe that doesn't matter, as it could be that a rubber bushing is seized onto the bolt any way. Any advice for me? Thanks. EDITED to add "a rear-end-rumble" -
Hi, I just bought my second new to me Subaru, it's a 1991 Legacy L, and the auto part of the seatbelt that goes up and down the door is just fine. It's the part that should be rolling up, making the belt tighten, that won't retract. The part between my seat and the passenger seat. How do I fix that? Any ideas? Also the passenger side window only rolls down if I use the master switch on my side (Bwah ha ha) and I was hoping that might be an easy fix. Otherwise, to heck with it. Except it might lead to bigger problems. So I ought a fix it now.
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Hey all, The title is incorrect. It should read "cannont turn Counterclockwise"... I have been working on my swap (1993 EJ22 into 1992 Loyale), and have run into a disheartening problem. I had a hard time getting the motor to line up while putting it in. So, what I did was loosen the clutch pressure plate (PP) bolts. Motor went in with no problems. This is where my stomach kind of dropped.... I put a socket wrench on the crank bolt in order to turn the flywheel so that I could tighten the PP bolts. Well, I made it about 1/4 revolution (counterclock-wise) before it siezed. Tried a little extra pressure, but I'm pretty sure It'll just undo the crank bolt that I've already torqued... I can turn the crank clockwise with ease. There is one point at which it feels like it drags on something slightly, but it'll still turn (clockwise). The only thing significant that I did to the motor, was recondition the heads, and replace gaskets. Do I need to pull the motor back out? Why can I turn it one way, but not the other?? Thanks, Greg
