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Showing results for tags 'suspension'.
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Hey yall!So I've got a 1999 Legacy Outback Limited, This was my fathers car before he passed away and I want to make it more off-road capable for camping and above average trails. At first I was wanting to go hard with a big 2.5 inch lift, however from what I've heard because I have a 2.5 automatic I'm going to be losing power and more prone to breaking things because of the larger wheels and transmission / cv being angled different from stock.My buddy has a 2017 Jeep Wrangler and it got through this trail in Nelson Nevada no problem completely stock with 8.3 inches of ground clearance, the trail really isn't too bad but towards the end its got some pretty funky dips and rocks, that the better approach angle of the jeep makes it easier to go through.https://www.lasvegasjeeptrails.com/jeep-trails/Lake-Mohave-Area/Fire-Mountain-Cove/I basically want my Subaru to be capable of running the same road for camping and stuff.I'm thinking since the stock Subaru comes with 7.3" inches of clearance already, besides the approach angles being worse because of the front and rear bumper of the outback, would a 1" lift or forester struts and stiffer springs and going from 26.3" tire diameter to 27.7" tire do the trick and get me to over 8.5" clearance?I figure if I can at least get to where the jeep is stock ill be golden.any advice on if I should even lift it or not is always welcome and how much should I lift? what kind of tires? what kind of struts and springs, is it worth swapping to an H6 for more power?also when it comes to power how much do I have to worry about losing power when lifting the outback, I want to throw camping gear in here and a full size spare as well and roof rack and all that. do I have to worry about that?I've read that the extra weight / Rotational mass affects the power quite a bit. what should I expect power wise from stock to 1 inch up to 2 inches, how much less camping gear or weight can it handle and still make it down the trail without ruining my transmission?thanks yall anything helps!! -
Instead of cluttering a useful thread, I thought I would make another for a bit of information on these, http://puu.sh/bKmHR.jpg http://puu.sh/bKmJ3.jpg http://puu.sh/bKmIs.jpg http://puu.sh/bKmJQ.jpg Hydraulic lift suspension that sits on top of springs/shocks Both of the 1984 Leones I have (Wagon that I drive and spare sedan parts car) Have these on them. Note the really low spring perch mount, (Shock Subaru#21007GA280 made by SHOWA #90801) I presume the second # is SHOWA The pump sits in the left front guard http://puu.sh/bLIBV/af686db895.jpg Then seen through bumper http://puu.sh/bLIAX/b0b46e54ee.jpg Has a filler that bolts above and to left of radiator http://puu.sh/bLIBp/5ada10ac91.jpg Bolt on filler has a small air bleed hole in it. One line comes out of pump from here http://puu.sh/bLIzc/9f19657560.jpg Which runs to front left strut and splits off. So, if anyone has more information on these that would be cool, or questions that I might (not likely) be able to answer. No obvious marks on pump unit but i haven't had time to clean it down yet, so there may be. Cheers, Tom
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New to Subies but not new to mechanics, does anyone know if the rear upper control arms of the 2014 Legacy’s are the same used on the 2014 WRX? -
I am wanting to lift my 08 legacy wagon. Hoping to switch to taller struts. Does anyone know if I can just pull struts off of a forester or a outback to do it? If so will i be needing other parts or have to modify other parts?
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I apologize if there is another thread related to this. If there is, point me to it and I'll be on my way. Basically, this is where I'm at. I have a 2009 Impreza 2.5i. Rear Setup RalliTEK 1" Rear Raised Springs & KYB Excel-G Struts plus 3/4" Spacers Get-Primitive Sub Frame Spacer Kit Front Setup RalliTEK 1" Front Raised Springs & KYB Excel-G Struts plus 1/2" Front Lift Kit Spacers Mevotech Control Arms with Whiteline Anti-Lift Kit I had ordered the sub frame spacer kit to align the rear tires center in the wheel well but appears after the suspension settled, the tires have gone back to their original position. My question is, what do I need to center the rear tires to the wheel well? Trailing arm spacers? -
My rear tires wearing on the inside. What can I do to fix this? -
I'm doing long-deferred maintenance and repairs on a 2002 Impreza Wagon 2.5 TS. The car was operated by someone who knows little about cars (but drives like he's still teaching the Offensive Driving and Escape Course at bodyguard school. (Once drove 300 miles in 4.2 hours on roads that DOT would have closed following an earthquake.) The (originally US) car is located in Panama. (As I write, I can look out the window and physically see the "End of the Internet" before the footpath enters the rainforest on the other side of the river.) Parts are a challenge, especially as the 2.5L motor was not sold in Panama. I have the luxury of making my own schedule and no wife to harass me, unlike him. Modifications I would like to add: Slight lift Replace or rebuild the front seats Dash and rear cameras with DVR Navigation or display system (preferably one that connects through the phone so I don't have to pay for another data subscription) Cruise control Reflash ECU And why: I'm not looking at anything special, but sometimes water levels get rather high (the car has been known to 'float' across some low-lying intersections in downpours) and it is showing some 'saggy butt' phenomenon. Given that the suspension components are original from the factory in the US and it has 175K miles on the odometer, I am not surprised. a lift of 1-2 inches (2.5 - 5cm) would help immensely with scraping the undercarriage on some of the roads. The seats are pretty worn looking and the cushioning is about gone from the above driver (who now has back issues - so a lumbar cushion would be great for him.) Cameras are a must for insurance reasons. (Fraud, etc.) White people all live in mansions, you know, and make our spending money speculating on the stock market and playing polo. (I know you all are relating to this lifestyle. I sarcastically explained this to a lawyer (who busted out laughing), but her secretary was incredulous, "Of course, like on the television!") I wish I was joking, but it really happened... Navigation system would be helpful for using Waze, which is useful for tracking the speed traps and the traffic accidents. ("Didn't you know that my husband is a big-shot politician so I can cut you off without warning, Mister BigTruck? How dare you hit my overpriced luxury SUV even though I am violating the traffic laws!") Commercial vehicles cannot move to the side of the road until the special traffic investigators arrive, of which there are few. Collide with a truck or a taxi and cancel the rest of your plans for the day. Cruise control is a 'nice to have'. Not sure it is worth it. ECU is programmed from the factory to run best at 87 Octane. Only fuels available here are 91 Octane and 95 Octane, which burns out the O2 sensors in minutes. Car backfires, but runs fine in 'limp home mode' with a steady CEL. It currently gets about 28 MPG with the #2 O2 sensor bypassed and has been driven like this for about 100K miles without noticeable damage. There are no emissions testing and the ones that do exist are not enforced (as one can see from the trucks belching thick black smoke every time they hit the accelerator.) Compliance with EPA rules is not required. Forester parts are more plentiful (due to the off-road like paved roads.) Before I pay for the parts (returns are not permitted in most stores) I want to make sure that I don't have to special order something from the States (in which case I will throw it into a suitcase next trip to save on air freight costs.) One of the benefits of 'white privilege' is that one has the added bonus of having to pay a 'premium' on almost everything. I'm in the US about twice a year. Other than that, I can use parts from anywhere. Trying to keep costs down on a car that will probably cost the equivalent in parts and labor to fix as it is worth. The info on the board has been wonderful, but I am concerned about manufacturers changing things over the years and the parts that once worked being no longer available (or not acting the same way). Bless you all. I'll post a photo later when it stops raining. so hard.
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i have a 95 legacy wagon and i can drive it anywhere , im always folling my friends in their lifted pickups etc. only thing is i would like more clearance, especially with the tow kit on the back that hangs down a bit lower. i believe my friend put outback suspension on his but was wondering what the tallest or best suspension to buy would be? im looking for something that i can just get from a "pull n save" for fairly cheap and would be fairly easy to find. any ideas??
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I have a 2011 wrx limited and I'm looking to second hand purchase BC Racing coilovers that were from a 2005 wrx wagon. Would they be compatible with my car?
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Hello, After MUCH searching of here (and elsewhere) I have almost every Spec ever wanted, save one. I've read the writeups, they are awesome. I have spring load, loose length, total strut length collapsed and not, inner and outer spring diameter, etc. But I cannot seem to find just the standard loaded height of the EA82 wagon front springs! Something has gone hinky in my camber, and the ride height doesn't look quite right, but I do not have the stock height written down. Not the full shock length loaded, or the car ride height, just the spring itself. So, could someone please walk out to their EA82 wagon and measure the spring length from bottom of the tophat to bottom of perch with the car just sitting on the ground? I would really appreciate it, thank you. -Charlie
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I’m working on an 83 DL wagon with front wheel drive. The service manual refers to the missing part as a helper, yet the more common term is bump stop. This car is missing the rubber cone part of the helper on the rear right side. I know there are options for universal part replacement or getting an oem through Subaru, however, I’m lost on the best way to remove the mounting plate that remains. The plate is an octagon, but it’s about an 1/8 inch thick at best. Before I foul it up with what I think would be logical attempts, I think it’s best if I ask how do I get this out from those with more experience! Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!
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Long post, but bit of explanation is needed. I have spent a couple weeks searching the forum, a lot of good info, a fair amount on the EA81, but not a lot for the 71. Most of the post are old enough that the photos are no longer there. Basically what it comes down to is I have an axle failing, and a parts car that I can still buy axles for. I have already swapped the rear over, and am now working on the front, but the suspension geometry has me a bit lost, mostly the strut tops, and wheel centering in well. I am lifting about 3 inches, already have 2 at the crossmember, and want to do 3 at the coil. On the EA81, when lifting, the strut tops move inboard as they go down, Do I need to compensate for this on the EA82 struts as well? If so, how much? I want to use the EA82 axles, I have the transaxle to go in, so splines/ratios are not the concern, but I need to move the lower arm out for length. I am thinking I can cut the 82 near the radius rod, and then drill/reinforce and use the 3 mounting holes that already exist on the EA71, thus avoiding much radius movement, or messing with the whole lower arm, Has anyone done that method? If so, how does it line up, or should I angle the last bit to compensate for wheel center? (#1 in Pics) It appears as thought the ends of the steering use the same rod, and therefore I can use the EA82 end, which is almost the exact length needed to fit the longer axle without toe issues, Is that correct? Or will I still need to add additional length other than the curved steering ends? (#2 in Pics) Thank you in advance, really need some confirmation before I screw with it much more. -Charlie
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Hi Guys, I'm planning to replace my rear struts this coming weekend and much to my surprise and chagrin, the FSM says that in order to change the rear struts, you have to pull the rear axles, pull the driveshaft - err, prop shaft, then drop the entire crossmember and rear differential, just to remove the strut! If I wasn't reading the manual I would have just thought it'd be possible to jack up the car, compress the spring, then undo the two upper mount bolts and the lower bolt, pull the strut, and replace. Bam. A quick search doesn't bring anything up in the forums here. Although I'm now confident that lots of people have done this (and that one person is convinced the factory struts are so great they never need to be replaced). Any insights? It's a dual range 4wd if that matters. Hopefully they can be changed without having to get into the rear diff or driveline at all, it'd be nice to save a few hours on this one. -
Hi guys My 2010 Impreza 2.5 has worn struts/tops and control arm/rear suspension bushings. I plan on keeping the car for a few more years and would like to upgrade some components to OEM WRX or STI parts. I'm not interested in making it a track car or lowering it alot. I just want to replace the worn base model parts with something better that will make the car feel more sporty. It's a daily driver so it needs to maintain decent ride quality. Here are my ideas/questions: Replace front lower control arms / rear links. It seems this is easier than pressing them out and not too expensive. Not really interesting in upgrading to urethane. Replace factory shocks and springs with OEM equivalent WRX or STI components. What are the differences in spring rates? Do they just swap in? Once the worn components are replaced I would like to upgrade the sway bars too. -
Ok, car in the discussion: 2007 Outback Wagon 2.5i basic. Meaning, this thing literally has no options. It's essentially a new age Brighton model. Manual, no traction control, lucky to have AC and power windows. Also, 16" wheels, not the standard 17" wheels literally every other trim level got. Anyway, onto the point! I have been researching and reading up on anti-sway bars, new springs, possible lift kits, and adjustable sway bar links, all in the goal of getting my car to stop lifting the inside wheel on hard cornering. A couple times (ok, more than a couple) I've had issues with the front inside tire lift and skitter when planting around a corner at WOT. This is a royal pain, as the onramp onto the freeway from my work is a hairpin with almost no run up. So, if I might pick the brains of my fellow Subaru enthusiasts, would an adjustable rear anti-sway bar with matching adjustable links solve my problem? Or would it be recommended to get new springs and struts with it? And then comes the snowball. Should I lift it while I'm down there replacing all the bits? Because the cost of a lift kit over factory replacement isn't much more, and I'd like the extra height. Nothing insane, but Rallitek's 2" lift sounds nice. Especially with the stiffer springs. So, thoughts, ideas, shoutings of "you moron" or "stop driving your car so hard"? Twitch -
Hello all, new to the forum here. I have recently purchased a 2000 Forester and I am looking for advice on good lift/tire combinations. I really like the look of a lifted forester, but would like somewhere to start. I have looked on other postings but all of the images are no longer available. Any advice would be great! Thanks! -
what was 2002 mid year rear shock change? May-June Rock auto shows different #s for early and late year. Is build date anywhere on car? Vin is 4s3bh686627662866. Thanks, Terry -
I picked up a 95 impreza 1.8L with forester suspension and brakes previously installed (bad engine- swapping in a 2.2L and Delta currently has my cams). I ordered trailing arm bracket spacers and I'm pretty sure the maxxis 27x8.5x14 tires on offset dirt track wheels will clear the spring perches and won't require any (or too much) beating or rolling. That being said, I'd like to know what else (within reason) I can do to possibly get a couple more inches of lift without binding axles and such. I've read through as much of the lift threads as I can handle and haven't found a straight forward answer. I also spoke with someone at a reputable rally/off-road shop and was pretty much told that the forester struts were the wrong way to go from the start and I am stuck with the current setup or re-do the whole suspension format . Any help is much appreciated.
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Hi y'all, I've done a lot of searching on this subject, and I was led to believe Forester struts are a direct swap onto a 98 Legacy (non-Outback), to give a little lift. I bought a set of FCS complete strut assemblies (for an 05 Forester) and brought them to a local shop for install on my 98 Legacy. They say they will not bolt on. What am I missing? Did I get the wrong year Forester struts, or do I need to swap out top hats or something? Maybe I should've just gone with '98 Outback struts/springs? Thanks so much for the help! :) -
I just purchased a '02 Outback LL Bean ed. with the 3.0L; I know with a heavy SW like the Outback it tends to sway and dip pretty good with aggressive turns and big dips, but I'm relatively sure it's time for a KYB strut upgrade project... I've heard rumors that Forester struts of some year models will be a direct bolt-in with the '02 OB and provide a stiffer ride/slight lift; has anybody tried this? What model of Forester struts do I need to fit into my OB? On a related note, if I decided to install the OB struts, is the strut spacer a viable option for achieving a similar lift? Trying to make mine look a little sportier and give some extra clearance/stiffer and more controlled ride. Thanks! Any recommendations appreciated... PS Does anyone with the H6 have the whiney power steering pump? I saw the easy fix with the 4 cylinder (the housing adjustment) but the H6 has a different configuration... I've heard maybe the O-ring in the PS fluid line is going bad and sucking air??? -
I just purchased my very first subaru less than a week ago. It's an 85 gl hatchback 4wd with the ea81 and 4 speed mt. I bought this car because my volkswagen is far to low for a Minnesota winter and I love Japanese cars and subarusee alike, and had never seen a subaru like this since that day when I opened up craigslist. Long story short I fell in love with it when I went and test drove it and I knew with the price tag of 1400 it was either buy it was sure to be someone else's. Anyways, Next summer I was hoping to make her a little less stock. I've been reading a lot on the engine and have a pretty good idea on what I want to do there. But I've been having some trouble finding almost anything on the hatchbacks suspension. I've heard of other people using miata coil sleeves in there old subi's but my shocks look like they mount up differently it being a torsion system in the rear and all. I guess my question is, are there any aftermarket, upgraded, or performance alternatives to my stock suspensionumber? Also any information on the trans. and drive train such as what commonly goes wrong and how they handle extra power would be much appreciated. -
I just purchased my very first subaru less than a week ago. It's an 85 gl hatchback 4wd with the ea81 and 4 speed mt. I bought this car because my volkswagen is far to low for a Minnesota winter and I love Japanese cars and subarusee alike, and had never seen a subaru like this since that day when I opened up craigslist. Long story short I fell in love with it when I went and test drove it and I knew with the price tag of 1400 it was either buy it was sure to be someone else's. Anyways, Next summer I was hoping to make her a little less stock. I've been reading a lot on the engine and have a pretty good idea on what I want to do there. But I've been having some trouble finding almost anything on the hatchbacks suspension. I've heard of other people using miata coil sleeves in there old subi's but my shocks look like they mount up differently it being a torsion system in the rear and all. I guess my question is, are there any aftermarket, upgraded, or performance alternatives to my stock suspensionumber? Also any information on the trans. and drive train such as what commonly goes wrong and how they handle extra power would be much appreciated.
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Hey all, I have my 1995 legacy L sedan that I lifted using a set of 1" Subtle Solution spacers on top of a set of 1997 outback struts. After putting my new tires and wheels on, it has a nice aggressive look. However, besides my 20yr old CVs finally giving out after the added stress, my main issue is with ride stiffness. I've assumed that's because the a-arms and trailing arms now sit at a more dramatic angle while at resting height. Besides lowering those mounts, I need some advice on if I should do. Any comments or ideas would be hugely helpful. Thanks -
Hello all, I have an '01 Legacy L 5-speed sedan, 93,000 miles, runs like a champ. Started getting bad noises from the front end passenger side every time I touched the brakes. Jacked the car up and took off the wheel: YIKES! The lower a-arm/control arm was completely rusted through right near the rear mounting. So, a few questions: 1) Should I buy a new or used part? 2) What bushings, hardware, etc., do I need to replace when I do the a-arm? 3) Anything else I should check out while I'm messing around down there? BTW, I checked the driver's side and it's quite solid and rust-free, so just bad luck on the passenger side. Thanks in advance for any tips, Jeff in Boston -
I've got a 1998 Legacy Outback. When I make a right hand turn, it continues to pull to the right after I come out of the turn. If I turn the wheel about 360 degrees to the left there is a clunk sound and it is centered again. If I hit a bump in the road it'll pop back into place too. Any ideas what might be causing the pulling? Thanks in advance! -Scott
