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Showing results for tags 'switches'.
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hello, I am new to this forum and to Subarus. I just bought a '99 Impreza Outback Sport. It's hard to drive at night because most of the tiny bulbs that light up switches like the cruise control and the backlights for the heater and AC are burned out. While at a wrecking yard for other parts I tried to find bulbs, but almost all of them are burned out. There is supposed to be an old sticky to a thread on this, but I can't get it to load. Any help is greatly appreciated. -
im in no need to know what these are or in need to fix them but ive been wondering what they are or what goes there, any help is greatly appreciated! just theres nothing about these on the changes on EA82 topic, and if there is, theres no picture for me to know it was or what it used to be. all of these are from a GL wagon, except for the cruise control that comes from a Loyale. ive attached 6 pictures, 1. first one is inbetween the foglight and steering wheel, no its not some future add on of ABS before subaru pulled the plug on the EA82 when the EJ series was introduced, i know it says ABS on the back of it but it also says ABS on the front grill, so its not ABS and ive looked at numerous GL-10's and non have the option or whatever goes there. 2. the next one is those clips that hold the headliner up, some wagons have an extra clip on the side of the middle back one, some dont, i broke mine when i was trying to fish the wire for the hatch light i added. 3. the next one is next to the tail lights, is this the switch to tell me if the hatch is open or closed? there on both sides, mine has never told me that the hatch is open in the dash lights, until i found a parts car and that one does. 4. the next one is of the cover that goes between the pedals and the rat nest of wires, some vehicles have them and some dont, did they all come with it and just not bother putting them back on? also the front skid plate, did they all come with it but on the first oil change they never put it back on? 5. next one is cruise control, why does the Loyale's cruise control look so ancient? i thought they came with the button that goes below the defroster on the left of the dash? 6. last one is of the seat belts, drivers side has this thing that wraps around to stop the seat belt while the other has a button, im guessing its been changed before, but whats the difference? or why? thanks for your opinions and help, just things ive been wondering about. (some images may be upside down, sorry about that, im on my phone)
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Hello and sorry for the long message. I've been here for a while as a non-member reading other people's posts and following suggestions relating to my '95 Subaru Legacy Wagon (Automatic AWD). My Problems: Are very similar to other people having issues starting my car when hot or after being driven for long or short distance. Car works almost perfectly in the morning and at initial startup (no problems). Drive for 1 hour or so and then park to go inside to work with clients Finish up inside, then come back to leave and head home...car may start after 3 or 4 tries Car also dies after being driven for long distance locally in town or between communities in my areas. When this happens, I can usually pop the hood and wait having the car cool down for 30 or so mins to 1 hour and will crank right up allowing me to finish my drive home As I've mentioned, I've already implemented many changes and updates to my Legacy including many provided by Flatuous Blather suggestions (Thanks bunches) and other peoples suggestions, but still no go and my Legacy still runs intermittent. What seemed to help for a while and then same old same old includes: New Rebuilt Gas Pump (recently swapped 6/23 with used Outback pump with a larger motor) Fixed over two years ago when initial problems occurred...no go and did not help...multiple diagnostics by my mechanic (testing voltage levels, gas pressure, and misc...) New Power Steering Pump - leaking badly, but not directly related to my problems besides fluid getting into Spark Plug Holes and needing cleanup on motor and underneath New Battery, Cables, and Connectors also years ago and recently, but even when new did not fix my problems or improve condition New Spark Plugs and Cables and Coil Pack also replaced Almost every sensor (Coolant Temp, O2, and recently both Crank Position and Camshaft Positions sensors) has been pulled and replaced with new after-market and bone yard pulls (trying to keep costs down years ago) Many many bolts/nuts/connectors that were rusted or corroded (wow I know I live in Florida, but not that close to the beach) Starter replacement (years ago), pulled and bench tested working at Advanced Auto last year, and recent rebuild (finding corrosion on solenoid contacts) replacing with new contacts and plunger parts suggested and still no go at this state Added additional Grounding Cable from Battery to Starter and replaced Positive Battery Terminal to remove older unit and possible problems Starter Relay Addition (thanks for the help) - thought this worked well and only lasted a few hours before same problems...sometimes my car gets lucky. Quick Test and Never Fail button/switch (thanks again Flatuous and many others) - added to Starter Relay above and helps most of the time, but not perfect and only provides an additional option when Keyed on starting fails. Recent changes as of June 23, 2013, I swapped out from my 96 Legacy Outback U-Pull-It volunteer: Fuel Pump - much larger unit with short return line tubing into tank (no problems so far and much less noisy replacing my rebuilt unit swapped years ago) Cleaned/checked all Gas and Vacuum sender and return lines MAF Sensor and Idle Control Valve - swapped with used units that were cleaned and then reinstalled. Also noticed the MAF and ICV both working, but took a while for them to register and level out properly The ignitor - also used replacement...but so far so good! Other Notes: Legacy works and runs MUCH Much better in the winter time...Summers in Florida are miserable without A/C (thank God that is still working) What has not been replaced is the Ignition Switch and possible Neutral/Part Position Sensor, but if this was my problem...the Never Fail Button should resolve these issues Others have mentioned Clogged Catalytic Converters causing similar problems...but checking air pressure shows exhaust volumes as normal and similar to other vehicles Update - also forgot to mention on my previous post...NO Codes being reported...nothing, Nada, and suspect the 95 Legacy simply doesn't report very much Also of note, people have referenced if I tried spraying "small amount of starter fluid into the air intake" and I did this previously, but it only had minor effect, car would not start, and continue to run as normal. (referencing my igniter issues) My Legacy is running much better and I took it for a test drive 30 mins or so to warm things up and plan to wait a hour and test again when the problems usually occur with engine getting hot and then sitting for a hour or two. Update (possibly final update) - looks like one of the options above has finally solved my problem! I suspect my problem was finally either Fuel Pump or Ignitor related, but I'm not going to switch either now they are working just to test my theory. In the end, I went through a bunch of different suggestions, Fuel Sender issues, Clogged/Leaking Fuel/Vacuum Lines, Relays, Sensors, with the final changes listed above. As noted, I got he car hot this afternoon and let it sit as usual for one or two hours as when the issues usually occur. Car cranked and turned over starting without hesitation and on the first try, which never happened before after driving and then sitting for a couple of hours. I'll know more in the coming days when I drive and test things out on a full day of driving in town and will update if I notice anything. I'd also like to hear form everyone on what you think my final problems were??? Thank You and appreciate all the feedback and patience with my efforts and questions! Sorli... -
Hi all, I'm new and have a question about my 91 legacy 2wd automatic It runs great starts fine, But when I try to put it in reverse it won't. Not w/o a lot of patience. The thumb trigger won't push in but sounds like a switch is closing. After 20 or so times it finally works. Once in gear no problem r-d-123. Seems more finicky over 4 days. Is there a switch that allows it to be put in rev? If so what's it called? The clicking seems to come from the steer column. Any thoughts appreciated. Cheers
