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Showing results for tags 'tailgate'.
Found 9 results
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Looking at SubaruParts dot com or the similar Subaru branded sites, they don't even show the "Loyale" as an option on their drop-down-lists. However using search engines and searching for example a Brat or Loyale part and then including "Subaru Parts" will bring up these older vehicles on their site. Did this for the Brat Tailgate... Trying to find the part number for the Counter-Sunk Phillips Cap Screw/Bolts that connect part number 10 (The support Stays) to both the Gate and the Body. They list all the other part numbers but the hardware I'm looking for... https://www.subaruparts.com/v-1984-subaru-brat--gl--1-8l-h4-gas/body--tailgate Ordered these through Subaru before back when building up my '85 Brat... Now having a hard time finding them. Have heard that someone at the Oregon Dealership has The Book with all the numbers. The nuts here at my local Subaru threw theirs away years ago. Also tried using the Search for this info... got about 5000 results... most of which had nothing to do with what I searched. Tried narrowing it down and the results went to 30,000. Narrowed it down further and went to zero results. Seems the Search prefers the latest posts and the older ones just fall into the clutter. -
On our 2005 Outback, our backup lights have been collecting water during rainstorms. Usually it appears as heavy condensation or fog, but after a big rain when I open the tailgate hatch and remove the backup light bulb, water runs out of the assembly. So far it has not shorted out the electrical outlet. I searched the forums but had a hard time finding exactly this problem on this car, so I just want to provide some info and couple helpful links for someone down the road. This is not a difficult repair with basic tools, but do allow at least a couple hours, more like 3 or 4 if you take your time. It took me a long time because once I got the tailgate bezel off (the part where the backup lights are), there was a lot of clean up to do - and of course you want to take your time on a careful reassembly. Body panel clip removal tools are very handy, but not essential. Harbor Freight has a cheap set. I was careful, but still managed to break one of the clip anchors and two bolts. This necessitated getting creative with a different screw and anchor, which took a while to figure out. Both of the breaks were caused by the nut/bolt being rusty, and not loosing. You will need some silicone sealant for the lights themselves, and 3M Strip-Calk, which is about $17. The Strip-Calk is specifically made for assembling body parts and light housings, etc. This was originally described to me as, "Dumdum comes in 12 inch long string sections (like the very thin red licorice)". I also used a lot of 409 and paper towels getting everything nice and clean. I have noticed in the past that most leaks are associated with a build up of dirt and grim in hidden or hard to reach areas. This first video covers removing the interior panels. You do not need to remove the long horizontal panel above the window. Also, on the rubbery weather striping, the small white clips popped right out, which is better than separating them from the strip as Tony does. I taped the strip back in place so it would not be damaged if the tailgate closed. You need to unclip one electrical connector, which on my car was kind of a pain. In this second video, Bruce removes all those interior panels, but also the tailgate outer bezel with the reverse light assemblies. If you only have time for one video, watch this one. I think Bruce misses a set of nuts on each side of the tailgate bezel, far left and right. They are covered by skinny black panels, which I only partially removed (I could not budge the visible clip, but the hidden ones came right off). If you have removed all the 8mm nuts inside the tailgate and the bezel does not budge, look for those other four nuts. Besides using the Strip-Calk on each side of the light foam and around all the bolt hole locations, I put a strip along the rubber edge below the window, wear the bezel makes contact. That is the first place for water to enter under the bezel recesses. I used the silicon to seal all around the light assembly, where the clear part meets the black assembly. That should about do it. Time for a beer. -
Hi folks, I'm looking to start doing some cosmetic work on my '79 BRAT. Specifically I need the below (preferably in red but i'll take what I can get!): tailgate (or even just the handle for the tailgate) passenger fender front bumper plastic door handle covers for interior I have some parts that I'd be willing to part with myself like a hood, rear diff, about 7 carbs in various states of disrepair ;), a couple of alternators, windshield wiper motors and the linkage, some interior parts like visors and a couple of door handles I believe and other parts as well. I will look through what I have if you have a specific thing you're looking for.
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Hello! I recently acquired a 79 BRAT from my brother, and it runs great with a minor exhaust leak. The car itself is in pretty rough condition right now, missing some parts... and I am having some difficulty finding a good source for parts. I am specifically looking for: Driver and Passenger Seats................ (Mine are ratty and extremely uncomfortable) Drivers Side Mirror........................ (I have the mount but the actual mirror has either been broken or fallen off) Drivers Side Door handle..................(Passenger's is in place but doesn't work) Complete Dash ................(or cover, the dash is very cracked) Accelerator Pedal .............(The rubber/plastic part is missing so it is just a metal arm) Tailgate .............................(Worst rust on the car is along the base of the tailgate, completely rusted through) Jumpseats? ......................(missing these, deciding if I want them) As well as some decorative paneling on the exterior. There could be more missing that I don't recognize. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4hYW5xQU7URNFdXMTFHTVdxSHc/view?usp=sharing Any advice would be appreciated, Thanks! -
Hello All! I am hoping if you could help me with my 3rd generation Outback wagon; I recently had an accident and banged my tailgate which broke the glass as well. Since, here in Mexico, the Outback is not widely available the dealer told me they will take up to 5 months to ship a new one. (which sucks) I found a 2nd generation Legacy wagon on a junk yard and and I would like to know if I can fit that tailgate to my model. Thanks in advance for all your help! -
All: On my 1995 Legacy Wagon the light in the back of the wagon will not come on when you open the hatch. If you manually turn the light on via the switch, it works. Where is the switch for the light? Is it the two spring loaded pieces on either side of the door on the left /right? They are quite rusty. Any good test for the switches? Thanks, Tom -
My rear window blew out and I need to replace it - cost of window is $502.86 & rear tailgate @ junkyard is about $90 - so has anyone replaced the rear tailgate? How do I do it? -
i suppose i shouldn't complain too much about a little ratting form a $700 car, but the tailgate on my 97 Legacy Wagon is driving me batty. at idle in gear, and over rough roads it rattles and buzzes like crazy. does anyone know of a way to adjust the latch or the rubber "bumpstops" in the doorjamb to stabilize the tailgate more when its closed? when i used to work at a volvo dealer, the tailgate bumpstops on the wagons were threaded so they could be made shorter or taller to slightly adjust how the tailgate sat when it was closed, but the bumpstops on my wagon seem to be solid. i should mention that if i really put some rump roast into it and slam the tailgate closed it still rattles a little bit, but not as much. any tips or tricks to cure this annoying problem would be greatly appreciated. thanks -
Most parts from a '79 Brat Post with questions, PM with offers. Buyer pays shipping. Just the handrail is left. VLV!!
