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Showing results for tags 'tensioner'.
Found 8 results
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The vehicle is 2010 Forester with 106000 miles. The YouTuber brianmobil1 mentioned that the top of the tensioner rod must be smooth. Mine is warn out. It is not leaking oil and I was going to reuse it. Should I replace it? Thanks for looking, Sam
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Hi all, Recently had the timing belt on my DOHC skip some teeth. Was a brand new belt kit including tensioner. Was a Gates-brand. Well, I reset everything and about 500 miles later I believe it has skipped at least a single tooth, so I've parked it. I will purchase a brand new Subaru OEM belt and tensioner for it. My question centers around parts interchangeability. After perusing through opposed forces: http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g11/type_28/engine/timing_belt_cover/ I've noticed that the '00-'07 WRX wagon has a 2.5L motor with timing covers that have timing belt guides for the cam sprockets as well as the crank. Any reason that these shouldn't work on the EJ25D? I'd like to add some additional security to the system. It seems to keep jumping off of the cams on the passenger side. Thoughts and advice will be appreciated. Greg -
Hey guys, I don't get into newer than gen 3 stuff, but when I do I come here... I'm looking for the preferred kit(with water pump) for a '95 ej22 and what type tensioner I am likely to need for this car. It's an LS wagon from Indiana. I have used Gates' kits in the past, but it seems like they are falling out of favor. What's the best I can get from Rock Auto for this? Thanks in advance! -
Cheap to make timing belt tool for EA82s. 3 1/2 inch disc of 3/16 steel with 3/8" drive socket welded to center on one side & 4 short 5/16" hex heads bolts welded to other side.
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I ordered a timing belt kit from RockAuto (GATES TCKWP254 ) because RA said it was the right fit for my '98. After receiving the kit I've realized that there are different timing belt tensioners and RockAuto and Amazon show both types as being the right "fit" for my car. Can anyone give me a hand? How do I know if this (see image) is the right tensioner for my car? I'm not going to get a chance to take it apart until next week and I'd rather not get it all apart and then find out I have the wrong one... I have a 1998 Subaru Legacy L Wagon (2.2). Is there a VIN digit or something I should look at to figure out which one of these i'd need? Thanks in advance! -Mike
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Hi All - Replaced timing belts, idler , tensioner etc. Drove the car 300 miles and let it sit for a day.Got back in and heard a distinctive hi pitched whine, lower at idle higher at speed coming from engine. Not discernable at freeway speed (too high pitched?). Got back in the car the following day and didnt hear the noise. The noise was way too obvious to be "normal". If I knew more I might suspect a problem with the alternator...but then it could be any of the other items replaced? Any thoughts would be most welcome! -
As part of my timing belt change on my '99 outback 2.5 DOHC (discussed in another posting), I had to remove the tensioner for the belt that drives the A/C compressor. When I put the car back together, I noticed that the two bolts that hold this tensioner to the block did not screw all the way in (short by about .5 cm), leaving the tensioner a bit loose. I know they are the correct bolts since immediately when I removed the tensioner I put the bolts back in their holes on the block. I tried swapping the two bolts for one another but that didn't help. When I put the belt on and put it under tension, it seemed to lock it in. Still, this does not seem correct. Has anyone else had this problem? Are there some washers behind the tensioner that I didn't know about and dropped? -
Ok, so had to stop driving the OBS Tuesday due to the do coolant loss, which is going out the reservoir and not the tailpipe. Yes, blown head gasket. So, starting tomorrow afternoon/evening I'm going to pull the engine and start work. I'm trying to first make sure I have everything, and second see what i should and should not do along with a few other questions. What I have for parts: Full Engine Gasket Set; Fel-Pro Head Gaskets (pair); Complete Timing Belt Kit w/ WP, Idlers, and Tensioner; TYC Radiator, Camshaft Sensor (probably don't need it but I have it); new o-ring PS Pump resevoir; new o-ring AC Low Pressure line; Separator Plate (metal); Tube of Subaru RTV I'm also picking up a used set of fans to fix the AC Fan the PO proceeded to cut and hot wire to the battery (yeah, don't ask). I know the AC Works, just leaks right there at that O-Ring (recently charged and tested, until it leaked out all the freon). Now for the questions: 1.) On the engine itself what all gaskets/seals should I replace while its out? This kit appears to have included everything. I already planned to do the head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, and remove/clean and reseal the oil pan along with the Valve Seals and the Camshaft seals and the front oil pump seal. 2.) Is there any way to test the rods/bearings on a Subaru Engine without disassembly? I know I can see them after removing the pickup tube assembly, but not sure there is enough room to move them and check for a bad bearing. 3.) Based on these questions, what's the largest & smallest torque I'm going to need? I can't find my torque wrenches (moved recently) and may have to buy new. I want to try and limit cost so if I know the lower and upper variance I can try and find 1 or 2 torque wrenches to cover it all instead of the 3 I can't find right now (had 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" Pittsburgh ones). 4.) While I am in here other than cleaning out the engine bay completely (including cleaning the subframe) what else would be smart to do?
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