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Showing results for tags 'thermostat'.
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85 BRAT, where is AC thermostat? I want to locate every component. Pic
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Not my car, not my problem (yet). But here's an interesting article about Thermo Control Valves (TCV) on newer Subarus. This link, from the Canadian newspaper The Globe and Mail, is behind a paywall: Costly repairs because of new thermostats will be a growing complaint for drivers . It may not let you in; so I've copied and pasted the text below: LOU'S GARAGE: Thermostats aren’t what they used to be. Gone are the days of the General Motors drop-in style thermostat, where you easily took off a coolant cap, reached down, grabbed a handle, pulled out and replaced an $8 thermostat in 30 seconds. Now, we have complex units referred to as coolant or thermo modules, thermo control valves (TCV) and in many cases, the common contemporary thermostat is only serviceable as a complete unit incorporating a large plastic housing. Owners of European vehicles have tolerated these costly units for at least a decade, but the rest of the automotive world is now becoming painfully aware of this newer tech. These units offer finer temperature control using rotary slide valves that direct coolant flow precisely around the engine and are faster at responding to engine load change. The engine will reach ideal operating temperature 50 per cent faster and keep it there over a wider variety of conditions. Whereas a thermostat is a straightforward valve that merely regulates coolant flow, a TCV can be thought of as a mixing valve. The thermostat is now the coolant gate keeper and the TCV is the director. Case in point is a 2019 Subaru Forester in the shop this week with a Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) on, no heat inside the cabin and an engine that won’t easily reach operating temperature. This vehicle has a traditional thermostat, but it also has a TCV that has recently failed, leaving this vehicle with no heat. The vehicle has 70,000 kilometres, putting it just outside of its warranty period, thereby passing this costly repair onto a shocked owner. You would be too if you had just received a quote for a $882 part plus a couple hours of labour. Why do we need these units when a simple thermostat has done the job previously with very little fanfare? Well, ever-tightening fuel economy regulations have all auto manufacturers scrambling, looking to squeeze every morsel of mileage out of a litre of fuel. This complicated part does exactly that by elevating fuel economy and reducing CO2 emissions approximately 4 per cent. This may not seem like a lot, but manufacturers have no choice in the matter. This means you have no choice either. The Subaru owner mentioned above is heading in again next week to his local dealer trying to find some financial relief for this repair. In my opinion, 70,000 kilometres seems awful early for such a costly repair to be sprung on an owner, especially when you factor in that up until last week, he had never even heard of a thermo control valve. I suspect this will be a common complaint in years to come for a lot of aging vehicles. -
Question SPEED ROUND, I need to replace the thermostat on our H6 engine (2012 Outback). That means draining the radiator. How much coolant should I have on hand to refill the radiator / coolant system ? I believe this thermostat is down low, in the lower radiator hose. 2) There are two coolant sensors located right next to each other. In the parts diagrams, the one to the left is 22630 36D, and the one to the right is 22630 30D. The part numbers are very similar. Can I order 22630AA140 for both locations ? It is $10-15 cheaper than the other one, 22360KA140. 3) What is the normal operating temp for the coolant in this engine? Using an OBD tester while driving, I can see that it is 195 to 205 degrees after warmed up good. I am trying to fix CEL engine code P0128. This code is saying the engine is running too cool. Thanks, Craig -
Hey all, Recently I've been discovering posts about changing the location of the thermostat from the bottom of the engine, in front of the water pump, to the top radiator hose right after the coolant exits the engine. This is supposed to reduce cavitation, and I've been having problems with an ej25d overheating. Ive ordered new hoses, radiator, and thermostat, and I'm thinking about doing this inline thermostat mod. Am I wasting my time thinking about this mod? I've always had a hard time burping the ej25d system so maybe this would help? This would also be easier to replace, and in theory reduces cavitation at the water pump. Has anyone done it? What are some experiences with it? -
Hi Everyone, It’s been 2 months now of researching, reading every thread I can, trying, monitoring with no success; I am now totally stuck and don’t see what else I can do to solve my issue, and this is driving me mad ^^ ! I have a Subaru Impreza Hatchback 1998, EJ15 GF1, manual, petrol, with now 190,000 km. Small engine, pretty well maintained, I change all filters and oil every 10k since I have it, the previous owner was taking care of it and I bought it after the cam belt and water pump were changed professionally by a garage., around 170k. So one day (around 187k) I noticed the car smelled a bit like overheating engine. I checked under the bonnet and noticed that the fans were not working. After more in depth checking I noticed that the lower radiator hose was cold and there was no pressure in the radiator. So bought a new thermostat and gasket (original Subaru) and new coolant, tried it with the new one and didn’t change a thing, the damn thing stays closed. Tested both thermostats in hot water, they both work fine. I then tried to run the car without the thermostat, I get good pressure, the coolant is flowing, I could properly burp the cooling system and I could see the radiator was not clogged, but surprisingly the fans still did not turn on. So I bought new temperature sensor and sender and tried again, but nothing changed, the fans don’t turn on. I checked all the fuses, under the steering wheel and under the bonnet, tested the relays with the test wires under the steering wheel and both relays and fans work fine. (I also bypassed the relays with fuses and this turns on the fans, no problem). The very weird thing is that when the thermostat is installed and the engine running, the temperature gauge comes up to the optimal position, slightly below the middle, and stays there, even though the engine keeps heating. I don’t have an infrared thermometer but I can tell by the smell and the heat, and the fact then the thermostat stays closed and fans stay off, that something is wrong and that the engine is too hot. It really smells like overheating engine and the hoses and engine are reeeeally hot. Before this began happening, when it worked well, the fans turned on and off automatically and I could tell when the thermostat opened and closed, it was all fine. I tested all sensors, new and old, with a multimeter and they all work fine, even the thermostats in hot water both open and close correctly. I contacted a mechanic friend who checked everything, he used a pretty strong product to clean the cooling system in case there would be some kind of stop-leak or stuff clogging the system, but nothing, the circuit is clean. I even used a thin brush to try to clean possible depot around the sensor areas, but nothing came out, all is clean… I also cleaned the cooling system with my garden hose, I know it's not recommended but I was out of options, I confirm that water flows through everything and came out clean. (I rinsed with demineralised water several times after this and put new coolant). I feel like I did everything I could, I don’t see what else to do. I am not sure this could be related, but (I think) this began happening the same month that someone tried to steal it, or at least I noticed this cooling issue like a month after. No big issue from these unskilled robbers, who just broke the door handle and damaged the ignition, but it took me like 2 weeks to fix this, but during this time I removed the battery from the car because I could not close it and I don’t have a garage. So the car stayed quite a long time without a battery. I thought this could have done something to the ECU (I have nearly no knowledge about this part of cars) but anyways, this should not impact the thermostat which is a purely mechanic part. So Guys, I don’t knot what else I can do. I am pretty sure that the radiator is fine, I have been driving without a thermostat since, the engine takes longer to heat and the temperature tends to decrease at high speed and increase at idle and low speeds (no fans working, remember) which seem logical to me. Also the heater core seems fine, heat turns on and off, no problem. If you have any idea what might be going on I’d be super keen hearing your opinion, this is getting so frustrating. Cheers guys, thanks for reading ! Oh and it's not a head gasket by the way, already checked, oil and coolant are fine, I changed both.- 41 replies
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2000 Forester Temp gauge hits red during light stop and go traffic or highway driving within 20 minutes, does not hit red just from idling. Temp gauge rises with coolant temp viewed on scan tool. Thermostat opens at correct temp (lower radiator hose gets hot), has new Fail-Safe thermostat. Fans turn on at 95 C. When the gauge hits red the temp is 100 C, highest temp I saw was 101 C, temp stayed between 90 C and 95 C at first but once it hit 100 C it wouldn't drop unless it sat and idled for about 10 minutes. I didn't push it too much because I didn't want to damage anything, A/C off and heater off, ambient temp 80 F. Cooling system was burped when thermostat was replaced and then a week or two later burped again and I got more air out of it. Burping procedure: with spill proof funnel on radiator, run engine until thermostat opens, let engine run and occasionally rev to about 3000 rpm until no more bubbles are seen. I waited about 15 minutes after thermostat opened each time. Head gaskets have been recently replaced. I don't trust the dash gauge, I don't think 101 C should be red-line but it does seem high, I haven't been able to find a maximum temp spec or normal operating range. I haven't worked on Subarus much and this is my first time messing with a Subaru cooling system. I haven't yet blown out the radiator fins, that's on the schedule this weekend. Is this a normal operating temp? At what what temp is engine damage likely to occur? I'm not even sure if I actually have a problem or not with a coolant temp of 101 C. -
Heater problems (Update) help 1992 loyale
Dawes posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Hi i posted a while back about having heater issues in my 1992 loyale. So i put the oem thermostat in and in made quite the difference my cars temp barley got above the operating temp now it gets to almost halfway on the gauge. So the heater works a little bit better but its still not hot... now im looking for input on where to look next, maybe heater core? it gets warm (keep in mind its 4 degrees where i am.) but just not hot. thanks! -
2003 Outback Limited EJ25, built for Canada in May of 2002. 165,000 miles. I cleaned and flushed the cooling system in March 2016. Then drained the block, radiator, heater core, etc. and removed the freeze plugs, all hoses, thermostat, temperature sender, etc. to dry the system out. Now ready to install new hoses and Evans coolant plus dozens of other preventative maintenance items. Was at the dealer last week and overheard someone say that it's hard on the head gaskets to let them dry out like that. Do not even think of putting it back together. Replace the head gaskets, guaranteed to have an issue with the head gaskets. I wish I had a chance to engage in the conversation. The head gaskets were replace in April, 2011 around 110,000 miles. It appears they are the Subaru brand. All other parts are Subaru. Have not found any aftermarket parts, including filters on the Outback. Is this a myth, a rumor, or a fact that I should continue deeper into the engine and replace the head gaskets? http://www.evanscoolant.com/ http://www.discountoeparts.com/genuine-subaru-parts -
Hi everyone, I have a 1996 outback, and it's giving me a weird problem. When my check engine lights turn on, my temp gauge reads fine, on the halfway mark. But when the check engine lights is off, the temp gauge goes up pass the halfway mark. And the check engine lights goes on and off at random start ups. I don't really know what's going on. Before this happened, I worked on the timing belt, replaced the water pump and thermostat. Could it be the thermostat that is causing this weird readings? And what about the check engine light? With the check engine light, I was thinking that it was probably from the engine? When replacing the timing belt, on the first try, it didn't turn on, but I kept cranking it and cranking it. Then on the second try, I think I might have forced the alignment, at one point, and turned the shaft when it was really stiff. ... and possibly damaged something inside the engine. Would that throw a check engine light? And one other issue I would like to address, since I am here. Earlier today, I replaced the resonator pipe and the muffler. bought the package from ebay. they totally shipped wrong parts to me. what a disappointment. The whole package is suppose to be black, but instead, they sent the silver muffler. And when I put them together, the two wouldn't not align. They are twisted at least 1 and 1/2 inches from each other. And they said it fits many 1996-1997 subarus: outback, impreza, legacy. ... And then I noticed, there are condensation dripping out of the connection between the resonator pipe and the Catalytic pipe. Is it just because it wasn't tight enough? But I have screwed completely as far as I can screw (up to the smooth part of the bolt, where the spring would be). As of right now, my outback is in the garage with no muffler. .... :'( Sorry, this is alot, but any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Thank you. -
So here's the scoop, I just replaced the radiator in a 2002 Subaru Legacy base model with AT. The original OEM radiator cracked just below the top neck, causing the car to start overheating, hence the replacement. I replaced it with a parts store replacement radiator, not an OEM one. I didn't change any hoses, thermostat, etc., just the radiator and a coolant fill. I know, I probably should've done a new thermostat too, but needed the car back on the road asap, which now hasn't happened. I filled the radiator through the fill neck, topped off the overflow tank and let the car idle up to normal temp. I made sure to fill it until it didn't draw anymore in. First test drive, within a mile or so the gauge starts climbing to 3/4 or so. Pulled over, let it cool down and limped it back home. I did some research, thinking that there might be air locks, so I tried various methods of burping - squeezing the upper and lower hoses while running with the radiator cap off, letting the heat run full blast while do so... nothing seems to help. I'm not sure if there is still air in there or if I have a problem with the thermostat possibly? I'm solely basing all of this off the stock temp gauge... At idle, the car never goes over the 1/2 mark. It only starts to soar when you take it for a drive, and it goes up within a mile give or take. The heat is very hot and working great, the lower radiator hose never warms up at all??? Not sure if it should? Take into consideration that it's in the lower 30's outside. Both cooling fans kick on and off at idle as well. I've not seen it draw anything from or overflow into the tank at all. The coolant is not boiling, it's not shooting out of the neck or doing much of anything with the rad cap off. I've tried just about everything to make certain there is no air trapped. So I'm kinda stumped at this point... My next plan of action is to drain it all and replace the thermostat, but I thought I'd seek some advice before doing so. -
Hello All, I'm new to the forum, here's the information: 1996 Subaru Legacy (300,000 miles). Over heated yesterday- on the "H", check engine light on, go to Autozone, code reads P0125, list "coolant temp is always low" then list probable cause "661-check coolant level"- checked, fine "662=Thermostat defective"- replacted thermostat, then boiled old one and it popped open, so it was never in need of replacement then "663= ECT (engine coolant temparature) sensor defective"- I don't even know what this is did nothing with it. Then today, I had to pick my son up from school (single/astrologer mom who lives on student loans and near nothing pay), car makes it to school (no over heating), when we leave school car overheats, all the way to H- then car dies in street (hear what sounds like loud knocking 5 seconds before it dies). Car restarts, I pull over, wait for it to cool, then I drive home (3 miles) on "H" almost instantly. Now it's parked outside, I have 0 support system and need this car to continue living if possible. I burbed the radiator/bled it, check out the oil it is NOT milky, no white smoke out of exhaust, no bubbles in resevioure, no black much in there either (though some brown muck that's been in there since I bought it 3 years ago), looked at outside of head gasket and around- no coolant, no visible signs. Is it the head gasket? The heater worked briefly on the ride to school (after I changed the fully functioning thermostat and flushed/bled radiator), then nothing but cold air the rest of the time. I know NOTHING about head gaskets other then the basic signs none of which I see though the car is in "H", the car DIED, and the heat is not blowing. Please, someone, anyone, help me. I truly need an angel right now. Also, as a side note I'm an astrologer and write weekly horoscopes, find me on FB or google Mystic Gwen. PLEASE HELP!!! The pic below is me and what I hope to be doing after one of you Yoda's guide me and that is smoking a CIGAR. For the love of God, Alah, Buddha, Hendrix and Geddy Lee- HELP ME.
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Ok folks, I'm hoping someone out there can help guide me to my problem area. I have a 2001 outback wagon with the 2.5L. It runs greats, but recently is have been pushing the antifreeze into the overflow and not drawing it back into the system. I did the obvious and changed out the radiator cap for a new one. That was not the problem. I put the car up in the air and pulled the cover off to have a look at the head gaskets. They were dry. I squeezed the lower radiator hose and had antifreeze come out of the thermostat housing. I figured the gasket went bad and replaced it. That seemed to work for a bit, but on my way back from a 300+ mile trip the car began having the same symptoms again. I stopped, shut the car off and burped they system until I was able to open the cap. The overflow was full but the radiator was again low on fluid. I topped it off and made it home with no trouble. My thoughts are it's the waterpump, but I had already replaced that no more than 8 months ago when the timing belt was done. I am hoping it's not the head gasket, but I am not sure. Wondering if anyone else out there had a similar problem and could tell me what they had done to fix it. Thanks for taking the time to read/reply folks! -
Hi all, I'm new here and just bought a 97 outback and have been having overheating issues. A mechanic did a leakdown test and determined that it was a leaking radiator, so I replaced the radiator along with the thermostat, and the upper radiator hose (the aftermarket lower hose didn't fit). The engine runs great and drives fine around town, but when I take it on the freeway it overheats. It'll run well for anywhere from 2 minutes to an hour until the temperature suddenly rises. It takes about 30 seconds to go from normal temp to red line. If I stop for a minute and run the fan then it will return to normal temp and I can drive another couple of miles before the problem develops again. I took it to another mechanic who did another coolant leakdown test and he said the system held pressure just fine. Any ideas? I'm worried that it's a head gasket, but shouldn't that show up in a leakdown test or wouldn't it also overheat at low speeds? Could the thermostat just suddenly close? -
Hello, First time posting. I have looked around quite extensively but have not been able to pinpoint a similar topic. I have a 1985 GL wagon that runs great. Everything was working great until two days ago. I had not driven it for a week and a half because I was out of town. The temperature hear in Colorado was below 20 and as low as -10 for most of this time. Now once it gets warmed up to operating temp the heater does not work. The hoses going into the heater core are not particularly warm and when I squeeze them there doesn't seem to be anything in them. It will also start to over heat but then go back to normal temp occasionally. I checked coolant level and filled to maximum. Has anyone else experienced this or have any insight? I plan on getting a block heater soon but have a feeling that won't change much except for ease of starting. Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Noah.
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I have 2001 Subaru Outback 2.4L Automatic wagon with about 190K miles. It runs great, however when it gets below 40 degrees farenheit, it has a few symptoms that are not present when the weather is warm. 1. Strong odor of gasoline, so much so that I cannot turn on heat unless the car is moving and wind is forcing the order to leave the engine area. 2. Overheating when driving more than 5-10 miles, regardless of uphill or downhill. At the end of last winter, I replaced the thermostat, drained old coolant, then refilled the system with 50/50 coolant to make sure I had a proper mix. Sure enough, I drove about 10 miles, and immediately saw the engine begin to near the red line. After this, I brought it to a mechanic and asked them to look for any problems and possibly check the water pump. They gave it back to me and told me the water pump wouldn't fail the way it is engineered, and they claimed that it had to be a head gasket problem. I don't believe they actually checked anything out because they didn't charge me after leaving it with them for three days. So, I saved up a little cash and it was around May, when things started to warm up. When I was ready to bring it in to have the head gasket replaced, the weather had consistently risen to 50-70 degreees farenheit and I was no longer having overheating issues. I was testing it on hills, and with AC on full, trying to get it to overheat with no success. So, I figured even if they replaced the head gasket, I couldn't verify that their work was successful until it got cold again, so I didn't do it. Now that we've had a couple weeks where mornings are below 30 degrees, all the symptoms are back, and they seem to be worse when it is really cold than just cold. I don't have anyway of proving that the gas odor and the overheating are related, but I never have one without the other. If I lived in a warmer climate, I don't think I would even be aware that there is an issue because it drives great in the summer and I have no issues, even on long road trips with the car packed and AC on full blast. Other info... I didn't see any excessive rust or metal particles when I flushed the coolant, I've always changed the oil regularly and i've used synthetic oil since it cleared 100K, no major mechanical failures but have replaced starter, alternator, knock sensor, belts when worn. Timing belt changed at 125K. Flushed & changed transmission fluid at 150K. I've regularly replaced spark plugs, spark plug wires, & distributor cap, but I've never replaced the fuel filter or anything fuel related because I was always afraid of a spill and stinking up the garage and having to hear my wife complain for weeks while the smell went away. Please help me!! I've aked every mechanic that I've randomly run into and they only tell me that it's either thermostat, water pump, or head gasket, however none of those suggest that it would work fine in the summer but overheat and stink in the winter. Any insight and explanation could help. I'm at a loss. I don't want to spend $1500 for a head gasket replacement and find out that it was some other anomoly that only costs me $50. I love my Subbie and hope to get her to at least 300K miles. -
Last September discovered head gasket leak. Tried to plug with "Alumaseal Stopleak." (Stupid idea)! Problem persisted. Three weeks later I flushed cooling system & tried to plug leak with "Bar's Leak Head Gasket Repair." Leak seemed plugged, but 8 months later engine overheated & radiator coolant was discovered to be way too low. Replaced coolant, kept radiator filled on inspection. Ten days ago added Subaru Cooling System Conditioner. Coolant began backing up into coolant reservoir, nearly filling it to the top every 75 miles, with foam floating near the top. Five days ago tried using "BAR'S LEAKS Head Gasket Repair." Looked good! No steam or water exiting tailpipe, and level of water in coolant reservoir remained steady — BUT — was only able to get 4 quarts of fluid into radiator! Engine now overheats in 15 minutes. Removed thermostat — no change. Top radiator hose hot, bottom hose cold. My guess — I plugged radiator with all the gunk I poured in. Can I flush that crap out with some sort of commercial additive, or should I just get a new radiator? -
I can't find the Stant xactstat tread anymore, I did try searching, but I came up with 0 results no matter how I worded it. Can anyone give me a part number for the xactstat for an ea71, I'm tired of these crap thermostats I've been using -
How accessible are the Thermostat and the temperature sensor in the EA81 engine? Would they be really easy to replace, or would you have to take a bunch of stuff apart?
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Okay, I give... What is the name of the little iddy biddy hose that runs from the underside of the thermostat housing to the intake manifold on my EA82. Anyone got a part number for it? My NAPA guys can't seem to find the part I'm looking for. They said they had it but the one they gave me is the 5/8" 90 degree hose from the pump to the heater. Anyone got a part number handy for this little item? -
Bought a 90 legacy & discovered it had an overheating issue. Aftermarket temperature gauge (came with vehicle) reading 210 as operating temperature, but would drop to 170-190 at 50-60 mph. Trouble shoot fans, both fan motors are dead. Replaced both fans. No change in temp. Curiously, the both fans run all the time, even at cold start up. Trouble shoot coolant, coolant is ok. Trouble shoot thermostat, get OEM aftermarket brand supposedly designed to keep temp at 170. Drained coolant and installed new thermostat, fillled with fresh coolant (but did not start at engine block..'burped' ...just filled into radiator) and temp now runs at 200. Will attempt to burp system today. Is a fun car, but the cooling thing is really strange. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
