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Showing results for tags 'timing belt'.
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How to verify mechanic (corporate shop) destroyed my engine
Todd Toddman posted a topic in Shop Talk
Driving my Outback home from Midas on Tuesday (1/18/22) the car died coming over a hill and wouldn’t start back up. Towed it back to Midas where they checked the timing belt and drained the oil which had metal shavings. Midas doesn’t want to open it up to investigate. They say they are capable and equipped, but they no longer do that kind of work. I realize that there’s a 95% chance the engine is toast. Before I replace the engine I need to open it up and find out what happened. Could they have done something when replacing the oil pan gasket that could have caused it to seize up? on December 23rd they had changed the timing belt (and cam shaft seal), but left the bolt on the tensioner loose enough that it slipped. I had shown up to pick it up, started it, noticed it sounded weird and turned it off after a minute. The mechanic came out and had me start it again. It ran for another minute while we listened and tried to figure out what it was. They looked it over the next day and they said it was fine. I have driven the car probably 400 miles over the last 4 weeks. Is there still a chance that the engine was damaged by the timing slip, but wouldn’t completely fail for a month? What would it look like? Or, was it a mistake having to do with the oil pan gasket? What should I be looking for? -
It’s kind of crazy to think how long I’ve been in the Subaru game and yet I’ve never replaced a 2.5 head gasket! I only want to deal with this repair once, hence this thread: I was under my wife’s 1999 Forester for an oil change over the weekend and noticed the bottom of the driver’s side of the engine was COVERED with engine oil. I had long suspected that it was the cam seal leaking, but the volume of oil and the area it covered has been slowly growing over the last few oil changes. A little research revealed that the EJ253 in this Forester likes to pop its head gasket and then leaks oil externally, which correlates with what I’m seeing. We lose about 1-2 quarts of oil between changes (I top it up often) but the engine doesn’t appear to burn any oil (no smoke out the tailpipe, hot or cold). The head gaskets were originally replaced at 78k miles (w/ P/N 11044AA633 head gaskets) and the engine now has about 205k miles on it now. We’re past due for a timing belt as well, so here is the list of parts that we’ve got so far: Timing Belt Parts: Timing belt Tensioner/idlers Crank pulley bolt Water pump & gasket Thermostat & gasket Cam seals F/R Crank seals A/C idler pulley Oil pump reseal/O-ring kit I’ve been doing a bunch of research on what else I should touch “while I’m in there.” In past posts @GeneralDisorder has suggested changing out the piston rings, installing knurled pistons and upgrading to a 10 mm oil pump. I will have the heads milled (if still in spec) but what else should I consider? Valvetrain work? Is there anything I can do to help oil drain back to keep the pistons from getting clogged? Head Gasket Parts: 770 head gaskets Exhaust manifold gaskets Intake manifold gaskets Valve cover gaskets Valve seals (int. & exh.) (I’ve read that the SOHC engines have a tendency to drop exhaust valve guides and that these should be knurled to keep them from dropping?) Sparkplug tube seals Valve cover bolt grommets Misc. Parts: Spark plugs Spark plug wires 10mm oil pump PCV valve Knock Sensor (original is cracked) Battery cables/tie down/j-bolts (battery terminals/tie down are fuzzy and have read this is a potential cause of driver’s side gasket failures) So, flame suit on, please let me know what you think of my parts list! Are there obvious omissions? Are there parts I could swap in for little expense that will help power/longevity (such as uprated camshafts, pistons, etc.?) Note, this isn’t a performance build, so I’m not thinking about forged, high-compression pistons or anything, but if there is an OEM piston that I could swap in that would provide a slight performance advantage, I would be interested in something like that, or Delta Cams, etc. How far away from a Frakenmotor would I be? Would an STI oil pan be something to install? -
I've been replacing the timing belt and pulleys in my 1999 Legacy Lancaster (a Japanese import similar to an Outback) with a kit from Amazon, I noticed that the rusty looking "guide" just left of the top cam on the right side (looking at the engine from mechanic perspective) was actually a small pulley with a destroyed ball bearing inside it. None of the belt kits I looked at, and I looked at many, included this pulley. All of the DOHC kits I saw included only the 2 smooth pulleys, the toothed pulley, and the hydraulic tensioner with its pulley. Can anyone please enlighten me why this would be? And where can I get the missing 5th pulley? Thanks.
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Got a 2008 Subaru Legacy, I just noticed a large chunk of my timing cover has fallen out. I was looking for a replacement piece, but they all come in 3 parts and for some reaso, my cover is 2 parts with a larger left side. I still have the chunk that fell out would i be able to make a temporary repair for now?
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The vehicle is 2010 Forester with 106000 miles. The YouTuber brianmobil1 mentioned that the top of the tensioner rod must be smooth. Mine is warn out. It is not leaking oil and I was going to reuse it. Should I replace it? Thanks for looking, Sam
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Hey Guys, Have a buddy in Salt Lake who blew timing belt on his '10 Impresa 2.5. Dealer is telling him $3,000 to change belt, repair bent valves etc... Any recommendation to where he could get a second opinion &/or better deal on the repairs in/around SLC? He is a college student & not much $$$.... -
Hi all, Recently had the timing belt on my DOHC skip some teeth. Was a brand new belt kit including tensioner. Was a Gates-brand. Well, I reset everything and about 500 miles later I believe it has skipped at least a single tooth, so I've parked it. I will purchase a brand new Subaru OEM belt and tensioner for it. My question centers around parts interchangeability. After perusing through opposed forces: http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g11/type_28/engine/timing_belt_cover/ I've noticed that the '00-'07 WRX wagon has a 2.5L motor with timing covers that have timing belt guides for the cam sprockets as well as the crank. Any reason that these shouldn't work on the EJ25D? I'd like to add some additional security to the system. It seems to keep jumping off of the cams on the passenger side. Thoughts and advice will be appreciated. Greg -
EJ251/25D hybrid Original posting with backstory: timing belt jumped a few teeth headed up I-70 two days ago. Reset timing, and it runs well, but noticeable tick coming from the passenger side of the motor. That is the side that the belt skipped. Yet to do a compression test, but I wanted to know what my options are if a valve or two bent. I'm supposed to start grad school this coming Monday, and need to get from Denver to Las Vegas. I'm limited on time. If I don't fix the valves, what are the chances it eats the valves while driving down there? I know I can have a motor out and apart within 4 hours, but the time it takes to get parts and everything needed gets me down to the wire on being at school on time. If I can at least get it to Nevada, I have a garage that'll allow me time to fix it properly... Thoughts?
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Hey all. Just the other day I got my 95 Legacy wagon back from my mechanic I had him do the ultimate timing service. The thing is when i bought the car it had 145K on it now it has 180K, it came with service records and the only thing referring to timing belt was at about 60K it had the water pump sieze or a pulley so Subaru replaced the water pump the belt and ONE pulley. So I've been leary about getting this job done for a long time finally got all the parts and ability to not have my car for 4 days, which it ended up taking with my having to get last minute parts. Here's what I had replaced. Aisin Timing kit: OEM belt Mitsuboshi Aisin Water pump 4 pulleys/gear Tensioner Water pump gasket Thermostat gasket From Subaru: Thermostat 2 Camshaft oil seals 1 Main crankshft seal New radiator cap New Radiator (Denso) old one had small leak All cooling system hoses & clamps Coolant Oil & Filter Thermostat inlet housing NGK Spark plugs NGK Wires Air filter PCV Valve Fuel filter and hoses Alternator and A/C belts I have to say man does it run nice or maybe its the self satisfaction of all the years of learning what actually goes into a timing belt replacement that makes me love it so much. I think it was only running on 2-3 cylinders the plugs were probably so old. BTW anyone in Houston or texas who wishes to travel here to get theirs done PM me my mechnic did an excellent job and very affordable. '97 -
Hi All, This is my first post here. I recently did a timing belt on my 1999 Legacy Outback Wagon, with a new water pump. Job went well, all parts bolted up and timing came out fine, no problems running now. However, even after burping the cooling system with a radiator bucket, multiple times, the car still overheats and I don't feel heat. There are no signs of a blown head gasket that I can tell, the car runs fine and doesn't smell or smoke or anything, has full power. What should my next step be? I replaced the thermostat with a genuine Subaru thermostat. My water pump is one of the old style pumps, with the teeth as opposed to the disc. Help!! I'm not sure what to do! -
So there has been alot of questions about bent valves from timing belt failures. It's been my experience that if the belt breaks, it surely bent valves. But sometimes, if the belt just skips a few teeth, things are okay. Example : this '06 forester started running incredibly rough about 10k miles after the owner did his own timing belt replacement. Pulled the covers, and found this IMG_2926 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_2925 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr He had striped out the lower idler hole, and it had walked funky out of the hole and forced the belt against the inside of the cover until it shredded and it had skipped 2 teeth on the passenger and 4 teeth on the drivers side. After tapping the lower hole deeper, and installing a longer bolt to hold the idler, I installed a new belt and did a compression test. 165+ in all cyls. Lucky SOB So if yer belt has skipped, don't go immediately tear the engine down. Worth a compression test first.- 4 replies
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My EA82 is running better than ever... for now. The driver's side timing belt is slowly getting eaten away. The cause? I'm not sure. But what I do know is that the belt is walking off the back of the camshaft sprocket and the crankshaft timing gear... and the tensioner... and the idler pulley. The point is the belt is walking towards the back of the engine and I don't know why. I've redone the belt tension a couple of times and the belt will be centered, but when I start the car, walk to the hood and look at the cam sprocket, it is right back to walking off the sprocket. It runs and drives, I've been driving it for about a week now. But I know eventually that thing is going to snap. What could cause this?
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Hey Everybody. Long time no write! It's been too long since I posted anything.. Busy with work and things. You know the drill. In the next week or so, I'll be performing the EJ20 swap in my 05 Forester. My engine has over 180 miles, has oil leaks, including the rear main seal, and has some really nice piston slap. If not for that last thing, I'd fix the leaks. I have some long distance driving coming up this spring - Death Valley for one - and I simply don't ant to get stuck somewhere with a blown engine. I decided an engine swap is the best solution. I tried finding another EJ25, but those are impossible to find, so a JDM EJ20 is on its way. I'm aware of the various thing that need to be swapped over from the old engine - cam and crank sprockets, sensors, intake manifold - but I have a question. Is the timing belt different between the two? I recently changed mine on the 25, and it would be nice if they were. If they are not, what car should I order from. All of the auto stores order according to vehicle, and since the Forester only comes with the 25, I know from previous experience I won't get the right part. Also, I'm curious how this swap has gone for others. I've read that the idle is smoother, but you do lose a bit of torque on acceleration. I can live with that. -
I removed the passenger side head for another issue. I turned the crank so the flywheel was on the 3 marks and the passenger cam pulley had the timing mark pointing up at the timing cover mark. My question is what is going on with the driver's side cam pulley. It has 2 marks on it - one pointing up and the other down. See the picture. On both pulleys, a mark is on the 5th hole (the small one) and it is aligned with the spring pin that locates the pulley on the cam. But on the driver's side, this 5th hole is pointing down!!! The previous owner installed new belts. Did he line up the drivers side 180 deg off? Can the engine run that way? (It did run but not the greatest power. Didn't sound bad.) Are the two pulleys supposed to be marked differently but mine are not? Thanks for your help. (Trying to get the photo to show up)
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Hey, Can anybody tell me what type of marker / manufacture that will stay on and show up on a timing belt / and gears? I want to put marks on the gears, and rotation direction on the belt. Thanks -
Hello all, Our family workhorse '05 Outback Wagon 5-speed has 85,000 miles. Was at Midas today to get the brakes done. There is a small oil leak from the front crankshaft seal. Should I consider doing the entire timing belt/water pump at the same time? Midas is quoting $825 for the timing belt, water pump and seal. Thanks for any advice. Jeff in Watertown, MA -
I changed out original 276K motor with used 76K . Outback is 5 spd manual. Did all wear point replacement and of gaskets / 5 Star HG. Car had been running great. Normal MPG 28 or so. No symptoms displayed before breakdown. Sold to my friend and has now come back to me for the repair. I did not use a genuine Subaru timing belt so that is in the back of my head. Compression is about 50% ~ 110psi. No spark with induction timing light. Car sounds different than I remember when turning over also. Oil is clean. So any other suggestions before I start disassembly? Any experience with premature timing belt failures? This was my 5th Subaru timing belt and easiest since I had the motor out. So could the belt have slipped one tooth and reduced the compression? Why no spark with an induction timing light? Any advice appreciated. -
Okay, it's a 2006 Legacy 2.5i Limited. I have owned this car for about a month and half or so. It has 99,500 on it. Today I am driving and the engine loses power/stalls, I try to restart it, with no luck. I get the car home and want to make sure the timing belt was moving properly. When I remove the small part (driver side) I see metal shavings. I could press the timing belt down at least a 1/2" and I know that not good. I was honestly feeling a little sick/kind of depressed. I let the engine get cold before draining the antifreeze. Remove all the stuff (belts, alternator, harmonic balancer etc) I take the remaining bolts out of the timing belt cover, and there it is, the Timing Belt Tensioner bolt had sheared off.... the tensioner was just floating it its area kind of... I know the timing had to have moved, if you see the picture with the belt, the clip is to show you where it was... According to Carfax the car had a cam seal(s) installed and Timing belt tensioner & Idler check on 10/10/16 @ 96,764 miles at a NON Subaru repair place in Round Rock, TX... I won't say who YET but they should have seen the tensioner leaking, and they of course didn't. Now what to do next... I don't want a junkyard engine because - You get someone else issue. Thoughts
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I'm in need of help. I have a 1996 Legacy GT with the 2.5l motor. I changed the front camshaft oil seal and the timing belt. During the process things got out of wack. The engine will start and seems to run fine on fast idle (2500-3000 rpm) for 15-20 secs. Idle drops (below 1000 rpm) engine starts running rough and spitting and sputtering. I try giving it gas and it won't rev up and dies at that point if I don't shut it off first. All timing marks are in what I think are the proper positions according to the diagram that's posted all over the internet and in the Haynes manual. Problem is the marks on the belt and the marks on the pulleys and on the cover won't line up perfectly, like it shows in the diagram. I don't know if what's happening is a result of the timing belt being off by a tooth or if I bent the valves at some point. Can someone please help? Other info there is compression at least in the first cylinder. Have changed spark plugs, plug wires and pcv valve. -
Hey everyone, Recently, I got back from a holiday and had my 89'GL sitting there for a month. It got driven a couple of times, but was dead when I got home. I replaced the spark plugs and she was up and running. Ever since though, it's ran like crap. Shakes with a very low idle, back fires when changing gears/de-accelerating and has bad fuel economy. I came to think it could just be time for a timing service. I have all the gear, new water pump (while I'm down there), timing light, compression kit etc and know how to test each thing. However, I'm just confused as to what order each part should be tested in? Disty, Ignition, Belt, Carbu idle speed? Cheers all! Hayden
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Hi all/anyone Im brand new to subaru, i have a very well looked after 55 plate forester. had the timing belt done today and a blowing exhaust patched. the car now sounds like a tornado jet with a harley up its back end. its faster. and more responsive but the idle is shocking. the car visibly shakes. i put my phone on the car roof to show the motion as my phone rattled on the roof. the mechanic ive known for ten years said all timing is bang on and it might settle...hmmm. or to reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery. it is very bad at idle , the shaking is ridiculous. any thoughts on what i should or could do? thanks ryan -
Hi Gang, I'm a first-time Subaru owner 'hopeful' and I am eager to know your opinion about purchasing a 2001 Forester, that has had some repairs and a lot of preventative maintenance. Thank you in advance! This is for sale by a self-proclaimed Subaru mechanic (not Subaru certified). He supposedly decided to specialize in Subarus since they represented a large percentage of what was on the road in his home state of Colorado. He buys them, fixes them, and sells them. He completed the work described below and explains that besides the cylinder heads and head gaskets, the rest was not necessary but was mainly preventative and done out of convenience since the engine was already out. He said170k miles is really not much for a Subaru that has already had the two Achilles heels replaced (headgaskets and timing belt - idler pulleys seized up on previous owner). Here's the work: Instead of just replacing the bent valves, he replaced the cylinder heads with ones from a 2003 with about 120k miles. Since the engine was out, he also did the following: Valve grinding/lapping. Valve adjustment. Had heads resurfaced, cleaned, and leak tested. Installed new fel pro MLS head gaskets Installed new timing belt, water pump, pulleys, and tensioner. Installed new fel pro valve cover gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, and exhaust manifold gaskets. While engine was out, he went over and resealed everything that could possibly leak down the road, including the notorious pcv baffle plate, and wrist pin cover. Oil change with Castrol GTX high milage, and a coolant flush. He took the car on multiple long test drives, as well as letting it sit idling with ac on for a couple hours. The car did not overheat, nor have any issues. Engine runs great, transmission shifts like it should. Brakes, and suspension are very smooth with no creaks, clunks, or any odd noises. Ac/heat work great, all power options work. Interior is in good shape. Has a few stains on the factory floor mats, but underneath carpet is almost like new. Exterior is in amazing shape for a 15 year old car. Paint is nearly perfect. No peeling, chips, or rust. He explains the car will need nothing mechanically for a very long time and will be super reliable for at least another 100000 miles. He builds a warranty on all the work he does into the price, $3600. Is there any reason *not* to purchase this car - can I get another 100k, you think, and is this really in great shape give the two 'achilles heels' have been addressed? Thank you! -
Hello All, Been reading this forum for some time which has been an incredible help with my amateur knowledge of Subarus. I have a 1999 Forester that's really getting up there in miles, currently at 277K. Had the timing belt changed at 258K back in October 2010. As you can tell I haven't driven but 20K miles with this vehicle in the last 6 years, it was a backup vehicle for a long time and would only get run once a week for very short trips, mostly has been sitting in open air (no garage unfortunately). I've done a lot of scouring over the internet and it seems there is a pretty wide range for the timing belt's replacement before it hits 105K miles. I've read that the timing belt should be replaced anywhere from 5 - 8 years. Since this was a replacement belt from a reputable mechanic and not a factory belt, am I overdue for a change or am I good for at least another year? If it helps clarify I live less than 5 miles from where I work and don't plan on driving it much more than to and from work with a few stops on the way. Any help is greatly appreciated!! -
I have just recently gotten back into wrenching on Subarus again. It has been a little bit since I have done any gasket work and I want to make sure I have good information before I start laying down hard earned money for parts. 1. I am looking to put together a frankenmotor with a 97 or 98 2.5 DOHC shortblock and 95 2.2 heads. Both EGR compatible. I understand I need to use 2.5 oem head gaskets. I have heard some recommend gaskets for a 2.5 turbo engine for this application, but have not heard a specific part number or vehicle type to order turbo gaskets for. 2. I believe I am correct that the remaining gaskets needed can be sourced aftermarket without issue, keeping in mind that cam and crank seals need to be the brown rubber, not the black. Fel-pro etc. ok for valve cover, intake, exhaust, oil pump, etc.? 3. Oil separator seal- Grey RTV good? I'm installing the steel oem replacement. 4. I read the thread on the Gates timing belt kits. Any other recommended aftermarket supplier manufacturer/supplier? 5. Different vehicle- 2006 Forester NA 2.5 SOHC- It is due for timing belt again coming up on 200k miles. Head gaskets are seeping oil at a slow rate. Minor annoyance, but I will probably do the head gaskets and timing belt all at once. I have never worked on one of these engines but expect it to be similar to the 2000 and 2002 sohc 2.5s I have done timing belts on before. Anything else I need to do while I am in there? Do I need to pull the oil pump and check the screws? anything else? Turbo or NA head gaskets? OEM or aftermarket? 6. The head gasket tightening steps? The information in my old Haynes manual I don't believe is accurate. Can someone post the head torqueing instructions for my 97 and my 06 please? -
I have just recently gotten back into wrenching on Subarus again. It has been a little bit since I have done any gasket work and I want to make sure I have good information before I start laying down hard earned money for parts. 1. I am looking to put together a frankenmotor with a 97 or 98 2.5 DOHC shortblock and 95 2.2 heads. Both EGR compatible. I understand I need to use 2.5 oem head gaskets. I have heard some recommend gaskets for a 2.5 turbo engine for this application, but have not heard a specific part number or vehicle type to order turbo gaskets for. 2. I believe I am correct that the remaining gaskets needed can be sourced aftermarket without issue, keeping in mind that cam and crank seals need to be the brown rubber, not the black. Fel-pro etc. ok for valve cover, intake, exhaust, oil pump, etc.? 3. Oil separator seal- Grey RTV good? I'm installing the steel oem replacement. 4. I read the thread on the Gates timing belt kits. Any other recommended aftermarket supplier manufacturer/supplier? 5. Different vehicle- 2006 Forester NA 2.5 SOHC- It is due for timing belt again coming up on 200k miles. Head gaskets are seeping oil at a slow rate. Minor annoyance, but I will probably do the head gaskets and timing belt all at once. I have never worked on one of these engines but expect it to be similar to the 2000 and 2002 sohc 2.5s I have done timing belts on before. Anything else I need to do while I am in there? Do I need to pull the oil pump and check the screws? anything else? Turbo or NA head gaskets? OEM or aftermarket? 6. The head gasket tightening steps? The information in my old Haynes manual I don't believe is accurate. Can someone post the head torqueing instructions for my 97 and my 06 please?
