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Showing results for tags 'tps'.
Found 13 results
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1998 OBW, 5MT 251/25D Hi all, looking to test my TPS. Been getting some misfires, and when hooked up to an OBD II reader, the TPS position is not the most consistent when giving values, as well as it never achieves 100% when I put the pedal to the floor. I've gone through three FSM versions so far, and the instructions say to use the ECM. Cool. I have the ECM out and exposed. Problem is that none of the connector options given B84, No. 24 & 25, or No. 20 & 6 connectors will give me what I want. Either 25, or No. 6 don't even have wires going to them. I'm trying to diagnose a few problems, from another post. Following the FSM diagnostics page as best as I can, and would like to test things before just spending money to replace. And say I did replace the TPS, how would I adjust it? Is there a place to get a FSM that is tied to my VIN? Does subaru provide/sell such things? Thanks for your time, Greg -
Hello everyone, new to the forum. I have searched around a bit but could not find the info I was looking for. I have a 1990 loyale that hasn't run in quite a while. Over that time rabbits had rotten under the hood and eaten a bit of its wiring. I recently got it started and have replaced most of the eaten wires. However all 4 of the throttle position senor wires connecting to the harness are gone. Would anyone be able to get a picture of the orientation of those wires into the tps? I have been able to find 3 pin versions all over but not the 4 pin which I believe is a later model part. Thank you for your time.
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Happy Easter! Over the weekend I spliced the new TPS pigtail and installed a new TPS sensor. The pigtail came out nice, readings taken afterwards are spot on, good ground, ohm readings and 5V where they should be. I made sure I put the new TPS in the exact spot as the old one was, or as close as the human eye and a picture can manage. I read a good ohm reading, only between pins 1 & 4 on the sensor, since I don't have a feeler gauge to test between pins 3 & 4 or the precise methods and extra hands needed for testing between pins 2 & 4 with throttle closed and open. Following me, I'm sure someone has done this and became aggravated. At this point, I didn't install the new ECU, being careful not to damage a new unit. This was purchased from epartsland.com for $100. This guy is located in Reading PA and from what I can tell, he carries thousands of ECUs for just about every car you can imagine. They are fully tested and have a warranty. I thought I'd just try and start the car to see what happens. Bad idea! RPMs hit the moon to 5,000 RPMs, so I shut it down immediately. I checked the repair manuals and see that I need to make adjustments using a multimeter and feeler gauges. So, I'm not gonna try this alone, I need help here and probably a second set of hands, besides my three year old son pretending to read manuals . I may ask a local mechanic to pay a house call, asking around for one that knows these old imports. Calling all Subaru Masters and Wizards for advice here please... -
Spring is here and I'm tinkering with my 1989 XT6. It sat in the garage for the winter, with a trickle charger and a weekly startup. I recently did a complete reseal of the H6, timing belts, water and oil pump, etc. It runs like a top, starting right up and idling perfectly after a cold start. I let it warm up to the point the fan kicks in, cycling the cooling system. When I shut it down and restart it hot, the idle RPMs shoot up to 1,500 or so and stays there, something is convincing the ECU to do this I guess. I cleaned the IACV, MAF, throttle linkage and all the wiring to them. I get 3.2 volts at the CTS wiring plug (I replaced the original with an injector harness). The CTS seems bad, it's 30 years old! I read an open circuit between the two conductors, tested when warm and then hot. I will check again when cold and hot, but an open is bad when it's hot and should be talking to the ECU. I'll try a new CTS first, they're not expensive. Questions... Should I get a $15 aftermarket CTS, or the good old NOS Subaru CTS for $40? The original lasted 30 years, so I'm leaning towards NOS Subaru. Any other suggestions on this issue? I can drive the car all day after a cold start, idling at a stop around 750 RPMs but if I shut it down and restart it hot after a few minutes, the idle zips up to 1,500 and is reluctant to settle down. I could check for vacuum leaks, but figured if this caused the high idle, it would occur even with a cold start.
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For the last 3 weeks I've been battling a cluster eff of symptoms most here would think are related to failing sensors, injection or other. And there were no CEL or codes stored(!!!) Things replaced or checked in order Replaced efi fuel pump & filter. Pump had died in mid July. Blew air thru suction line to clear any junk on fuel tank strainer - nothing Checked evap cannister & fuel tank purge lines - good. Checked evap sol valve - good. Replaced plugs, cap & rotor, spark plug wires, coil. Replaced optical sensor in distrib & upper 6200 sealed ball brg. Needed optical sensor as there was corrosion inside distrib. Brg was 'crunchy' Replaced MAF sensor - twice. Once with unknown used one & once with "reman" Cardone MAF. Waiting for known good genuine Hitachi MAF to arrive. Then will put "Car-do-nay" on shelf as spare Checked CTS - good. Pulled apart air cleaner & snorkel under fender to check for obstruction - good Rebuilt SPFI throttle body & checked TPS for dead spots - good Checked front cat, rear cat & muffler for obstructions. Replaced rear cat for general principle as it was a 8 yr old aftermarket Magnaflow CA legal cat. Added an O2 sensor bung ahead of new cat for 96 EJ efi conversion. My 87 4wd GL was bucking-cutting out randomly. Stalling after starting. Losing power at top end in any gear. Got to point of being undriveable. I have no room in driveway right now(of course) to Ej it otherwise I would have. Will have to wait until I have space to work. Car is registered in MT so it is exempt. Yay! After replacing the rear cat & getting no where I stopped for the night to test drive again in morning. Glad I did. Started with difficulty. stalling a few times until it ran with coaxing from me using throttle pedal - a lot of coaxing. As I was getting in driver's seat, I hit the lower dash panel. Then it died. AHA!!!!! Pulled down panels. Started digging into the wiring to look for loose connections but found none. Pulled down ECM & swapped in my backup ECM. Replaced ignition & fuel pump relays above ECM mount while I was there(had ordered them a week before just in case). Started engine with no problem & no stalling. IAC behaved normally raising idle to warm up. As I was lifting ECM back in place the engine died again. Hmmm. Started checking further into wiring. Found that there was corrosion in sensor connector - the translucent white connector with all the shielded sensor wiring. All sensor wires go thru there. Cleaned the contacts.Then repeatedly put conn together & pulled it apart a few times to 'wipe away' the corrosion. Put ECM back in mount bracket. Went for test drive. Runs better than it has in months. I can recall some hesitation, loss of power & etc when I came back from MT. This must've been it all along. Anyone else mystified by a long long list of things checked or replaced with no positive result ought to look under the dash at sensor connector(its next to rectangular gray diode to left of ECM) & ECM connector corrosion. Look to the engine bay harness for corrosion too. Any intermittent connection in harness would replicate the symptoms we associate with clogged cats, failing ignition, failing injector, failing MAF, etc. Enough to drive you nuts............. Happy hunting! -
threw a code for tps (94 legacy ej22) replaced with new one. aligned with paint marks but still throwing the code, getting a sputter at WOT from a dead stop randomly, especially when not at full operating temp -
Just finished timing belts, water pump, pulleys, new oil seals, brand new vacuum lines, all new bosch ignition, pcv valve, pcv hoses, karropak gaskets on throttle, everything's tightened down!and sealed up, cooling system bled, new thermostat, etc... I checked and got codes 11, 12, 13, 34 & 35. Only had the car about a week, but no engine light before timing belt. Curious about the possibility this is an error as the car runs awesome, idles a little high though (1000-1100 rpms)
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After replacing the TPS on my '97 2.2 A/T with one from the junkyard I declared my car repaired from it's transmission problems and P0720 (output speed sensor circuit) error code. It initially drove and shifted wonderfully (no CEL). However 50 miles down the road it was back to it's old ways going into "limp mode" 2nd gear selected. I unplugged and reattached the electrical connectors to the transmission and was in the process of back-probing the TPS when I accidentally touched the wrong probe--which showed I was getting continuity across the terminal with the ignition off. This seems to be wrong--what say you? -
Hello. Thanks in advance for reading. A bit of a long post, I'm trying to provide as many details as possible. History I recently swapped a '95 4EAT (90k) and rear differential into my '92 Legacy L AWD Sedan. The original final drive ratio was 3.90, and is now 4.11. However, the winter tires I am using are significantly larger than the factory tires (I do not have tire clearance issues, BTW). The factory calls for 185/70 14s with a circumference of 76.017 inches, and I'm running 195/75 14s with a circumference of 80.161 inches. At the advice of the local Subaru guru, I did NOT swap the TCU. The steeper gears combined with the taller tires is a near-perfect match IF there were to be a TCU issue: 3.90/4.11 = 0.949 76.017/80.161 = 0.948 I've also verified this by calculating my speed through several mile markers. Symptoms 1) Intermittent, totally random failsafe mode (stuck in 3rd gear). This can happen at any speed, at any time, and for any duration. It can be downshifting normally as I slow to a stop, only to go into failsafe as I accelerate. I can drive it for 30 minutes on the highway with no problems when it suddenly drops to 3rd and revs. It can happen first thing in the morning when cold, or not. It can be in failsafe for two seconds or fifteen minutes. Totally random. Overall, it seems to fault approximately 25% of the time, and is not getting better or worse. 2) When it exits of failsafe mode, I receive one and only one power light indicator flash. I receive no indications when the 4EAT enters failsafe mode, and I am even sometimes unaware the the transmission has faulted until I observe the one flash. Occasionally, I also get one extremely fast AT temp indicator flash. This happens very quickly. So quickly, in fact, that I can barely even tell which indicator came on. The AT temp indicator may be flashing every time the power indicator flashes, but I don't think this is the case. I cannot tell because when I am able to visualize the indicator, it stays lit for just a split second. 3) Occasionally, but much more infrequently then the symptoms above, I receive the 16 power indicator flashes, indicating a stored TCU code. When I am able to retrieve the codes, I always receive a 32 and a 33 for vehicle speed sensors 1 and 2. 4) As to 3) above, I cannot always retrieve codes. When I follow Josh's code retrieval steps, the power indicator lamp does not always come on in step 3. Actions I've changed the fluid twice. It is always bright red with no burnt odor. I've used 1/2 bottle of red LubeGuard each time. I always keep the fluid right on the full mark. Next I do not think that I have a mechanical issue with the transmission. The intermittent but binary nature of the symptoms, combined with occasional lack of power indicator at startup point me to an electrical issue. I could try a '95 TCU, speed sensors, cleaning the transmission connectors, or cleaning and adjusting the throttle position sensor. Any other ideas? Thanks for the forum, the great write-ups, and the good community attitude. This is my first Subaru and I've had fun learning not only about my car, but what everyone else is doing. Dana -
So I inherited a 85 brat with a ej 22 conversion. After many hours and several small repairs including a idle air control cleaning I am having a problem with the tps. I started tracing wires back to the ecu and found a problem with the tps power and signal wires. The information I have found on the internet claims pin 58-2 to be the signal wire. white wire at the tps sensor however it is black at the ecu and was clearly grounded in a harness which appeared to be factoryish. The opposite was true for the ground wire, black at the tps and the b58-1 pin has a white wire. My next step was to make a bypass harness for the tps/idle four wire set up. I grounded pin 58.1 and ran a wire back to the tps black wire (position 4). The red wire voltage seems good at 4.7 volts (position 3) I left it alone. I connected a wire to pin 58-2 and ran it back to the white wire (position 2) on the tps. Which leads me to the problem I am having now. Set up like this it seems to run well with the exception of a high idle. Good throttle response anyhow. So I turned my attention to the idle switch wire, brown and on pin 56-6 (position 1) on the tps. I reads a constant 4.7 volts. The voltage originates from the ecu and not the tps. Removing the plug from the computer and testing pin 56-6 I get 4.7 volts. So my question is. should there be voltage at the idle switch and the tps works by grounding it out when the throttle is closed? Or am I getting some kind of feedback through the ecm because of the shotty harness install? Is there something else hooked to the idle circuit that might be causing this? Is the info I have on the ecu pinout incorrect? Just chasing my tail at this point. Please help.
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1.8, 4cyl 5spd AWD with 112,000 miles. Have replaced timing belts, tuneup, oil pump seals but still doesn't have much power up even a gradual hill. Have been told to replace throttle positioning sensor which is a pretty spendy part. Looking for some expert advice from other Subaru owners? -
I have an 03 Outback 2.5 A/T w appx. 184k miles. Trans has been replaced and the previous owner took good care of and maintained the vehicle well. The past several months I have had starting/idling/stalling issues. This general is worse when the vehicle is cold. It is hard to start without giving the accelerator a little help it most of the time will not start and keep running. It will stall if the idle is not kept up but when it does it runs fine. Sometimes it will idle and or start on its own without help, but that is generally only when it is warm, however can periodically do so on a cold start. When it stalls out, often the "AT Oil Temp" light flashes. The car is not throwing any codes. When these issues first started the symptoms where worse and the idle on a few occasions started to run high on its own, yes while driving which was quite dangerous! A few weeks back I ran some Seafoam into the intake into two different areas as per the bottles instructions to try to ensure that all cylinders where feed properly with the remains in the fuel tank. I also cleaned the throttle body out the best I could (air filter good, pcv valve iffy.) I did not get the standard heavy white smoke on start up that I normally do on other vehicles leading me to question whether the process took properly. I had a mechanic tell me to reset the computers values by disconnecting the negative lead & touching it to the positive side and leave set for 15 minutes or so. All of this seemed to do the trick. However, it started again and I brough it to my mechanic. The only thing they could find was a reported vacuum leak next to the intake. That certainly could do it and assumed that when I reassembled the air cleaner, I must have not made a proper connection and was gald that was the problem. It was not. THe car is still doing the same thing. I am going to try and replace the fuel filter and pcv valve next but if that doesn't do it, I am stuck! Suggestions!?! Btw: The TPS switch was tested and all that seems to be good. Please HELP!?! -
Does anyone know which wire color is which? I need to find my wiring problem. I would guess Black is power, which I believe should be 5V? Past that I am guessing. Once TPS plug is removed finding live and ground should be easy; do I need to worry about finding the signal wire (0.2V right?) (other than inspecting all the wiring for wear). If I am lucky There will be some worn insulation so the fix will be easy. Otherwise I need to find a bad ground I am guessing? Should any one have a diagnostics procedure or flow chart I would be REALLY grateful. Thanks again! Note Throttle position sensor has already been replaced, this is no longer intermittant and occors most days at start up.
