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Showing results for tags 'transaxle'.
Found 5 results
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I have a 1982 BRAT that I'm replacing the clutch on. Probe is my clutch is a 24 spline and every replacement I'm seeing is 21 spline. I think it's an aftermarket transmission. The only tag I'm seeing on the bell housing is a sticker with the numbers 064474. I don't see any other markings, but it's hard to tell because the previous owner painted the motor and tranny. Anybody have any tips? -
Hi Subi Fans, I have a 2005 Outback, 3.0R VDC 5AT w sport shift. Recently the CEL came on and produced code P0768, which has to do with the Shift Solenoid 'D' electrical. The solenoid is located on the control valve assembly, which is inside the transmission pan. The problem is intermittent, and I have been able to reset the code several times, but within a few miles the CEL comes on again. This last time while pulling a steady hill as it went to shift between 3 and 4. Until my next reset, it is stuck now in one of those gears. The sport shift would not work either. Of course, about half the lights on the dashboard are going wild, and cruise control is dead. After much investigation I am pretty sure no one is re-manufacturing or rebuilding these valve bodies, and no solenoids can be purchased separately. 1) Does anybody know where I can get a rebuilt valve body with tested solenoids? I have found a used transmission (131,000 miles) for $485, which includes shipping. 2) Is it a good idea to purchase a used transmission and then remove and reuse the valve body from it? Subaru still sells the valve body under part #31705AA4309L, and those run $750 to $935. It is a new part and has at least some warranty. This valve body fits a good number of 6 cylinder 5AT Subi models from 2005 to 2007. 3) Is my best bet going to be a new valve body? Last question. It is kind of a messy PITA job to get inside the tranny case just to look at the wiring and make sure things are plugged in, and replacing all the tranny fluid is not cheap. If I am opening it up I want to replace the valve body (or the D solenoid). 4) After replacement, does the car's computer need to be reset? Or can I just drive away? 5) If so, is that something I can do, or must the dealer (or my good independent garage) do it? If anyone can help, or has any resources, please let me know - I am OPEN TO IDEAS. The car is great otherwise, but has a salvage title and 208K, so we are getting leery of big expenditures to keep it going. I have had it for eight years. THANKS !!! Craig -
So I bought a 2001 Legacy/outback (before they became separate body models, I believe) and it had a bad transmission. He sold me, with the car, a transmission. I have the engine out and was swapping the two transmissions when... the flex plate doesn't match the torque converter. 1) I haven't tried yet, but can I put the old torque converter on the new transmission (if it fits)? 2) Can I purchase the flex plate from a forester that would match the transmission I have? The transmission that I HAVE (the bad one) has a sticker that says tz1a3zs2aa-p4 The new one is tz1a3zc3aa-pm. I might have those backwards, I'm away from the shop right now. I'm not finding these in the lists of transaxles - and when I google it, the results are russian. Thoughts? for reference, when I bought it, the bad transaxle drove with a 'clunking' but not too bad. After a hard parallel park, it drove with a crazy heavy clunk back to the shop and was done. -
My next project on Sarge (1983 DL 4wd manual 4 speed) is pulling a front axle to take care of a torn CV boot (i read a lot of negative reviews about the split boot repair kits.) There is an oil stain on the transaxle there, likely representing a minor seal leak. So i fugured that as long as I have it torn abart it would be a good idea to replace the sea. lBefore i get into it, are there any special alerts or tricks to be aware of for replacing the transaxle seal?
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Another A/T Binding Issue, my apologies Vehicle: 1997 Legacy L Sedan (203,000 miles) Engine: 2.2 Liter Transmission: 4EAT Symptoms: Severe binding during turns, even slight deviation from straight ahead. Seems to lack power but that could be normal, as this is my first experience with Subaru. Checks performed: Tires and wheels match, pressure checked OK FWD fuse installed, binding relieved but transmission noisy (whine) ECU and TCM code retrieval procedure performed, no codes present (2hz) Checked ATF, looked old/burnt, drained and refilled once (will repeat) Checked Differential gear oil, at proper level and seemed fine Checked rear end, lifted rear of car with transmission in neutral, both wheels rotate freely and rotating either results in opposite wheel remaining stationary or opposite rotation. Manually rotated driveline, results in both wheels rotating in the same direction, everything seems free, no resistance noted Checks in progress: Disconnect 16 pin multi-connector aft of throttle body on bell housing and check resistance of each sensor/solenoid If all sensor/solenoids measure correctly, reconnect and check voltages/resistances at TCM Help, Advice Requested!!! Am I proceeding down a logical path for the symptom noted or should I be heading elsewhere? Please advise! Electrical Engineer playing mechanic with Daughter's car! Thanks Navet Update, Sensor/Solenoid resistance readings: Vehicle Speed Sensor 1 450-720 Ohms (expected) 541 Ohms (Actual) Correct ATF Temperature Sensor 2100-2900 Ohms @ 68F 4200 Ohms @ ~35F (Actual) Correct Duty Solenoid "A" 1.5-4.5 Ohms (Expected) 3.3 Ohms (Actual) Correct Duty Solenoid "B" 9-17 Ohms (Expected) 13.3 Ohms (Actual) Correct Shift Solenoid 1 20-32 Ohms (Expected) 24.5 Ohms (Actual) Correct Shift Solenoid 2 20-32 Ohms (Expected) 24.4 Ohms (Actual) Correct Shift Solenoid 3 20-32 Ohms (Expected) 25 Ohms (Actual) Correct Duty Solenoid "C" 9-17 Ohms (Expected) 33 Ohms (Actual) Houston, I think we have Problem! I assume this means Solenoid "C" is bad? looking for confirmation before I pull the tail shaft housing. Thanks again.
