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Showing results for tags 'transmission'.
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Long story short, I need a transmission in my 2020 crosstrek premium that's out of warranty. Subaru of America can't help. My sister is paying and doesn't want to go through the dealership. They quoted $9200, but she wants to pull from a salvaged car, go through a local transmission place and spend $2k-3k. I'm aware of all the potential issues with that plan so I would like to mitigate them as much as possible. Is there a way to ensure that the transmission we buy (probably through ebay at this point) will actually work properly with the car? I looked up the part number through Subaru and a quick search found nothing but new for ~$8000. Most listings just give year ranges for the Crosstrek. Will any transmission for a 2.0 engine, between 18 and 21 actually work with my 2020 or is there something else I need to look for? That's the main question I think I have. The shop I'm taking it to apparently has experience with cvts so I guess I'm okay on that front. Is there anything I'm overlooking? Thanks in advance!
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Posted this in the new gen forum but this might be a better place. I'm putting an sti 6 speed into my XT6 and looking for a crossmember. My car started life as an automatic so I don't have the XT6 manual crossmember and finding one is gonna be impossible, and don't have a welder so would rather not go custom. Is there any EJ (or other) crossmember that will work? Here are the measurements (all from the centers of the bolts) Green line: 20 and 5/8 inches Red line: 2 and 3/8 inches Blue line: 13 and 1/2 inches
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I have a 2001 Subaru Forester L with auto trans. I started hearing a really loud clunking noise (as the wheels turn) as I was driving near my house. I immediately took it back to my garage. The noise is very brutal, as in something is ready to break and break badly. The motor and everything jerks pretty bad with the noise while the wheels are rotating. First inspection, it had a really bad busted inner CV joint on the passenger side front, which I noticed had lots of play. Replaced with a new axle, but the problem is still there, no change at all. It really sounds like the noise is coming from inside the transmission, like the front differential is ready to go??? It only makes the noise when running in gear while driving or with all wheels lifted off the ground. It doesn't seem to make the noise / jerk when turning the wheels by hand. I took a rather large video (over 150MB) so I'll provide a link to the video below, any help would greatly be appreciated. https://sendvid.com/om7qyxz4 -
I have real trouble getting into reverse gear on my dual range 4MT. I've done the trick of replacing the linkage pin with a bolt, and that helped a little. I've also removed (hopefully temporarily) the dual range 4WD linkage to allow more room to try to whip it over to the right and get it into reverse. So now I can *usually* get it into reverse when I want to, for now, but I expect it to get worse over time. I've been working on it solo and I just visited my folks and had my dad work the gear shift while I looked at the linkage, and the "foot" of the linkage comes *way* out of the little receiver/cup it sits in. I'm thinking that might be part of the problem, that there should be something that should allow the shifter to move but not jump out of the cup like it does. So, can anybody get me a picture or diagram of where the linkage sits in the little cup near the bottom of the transmission? Bonus points for answering the question of where something should be connecting it to the cup. I'm seriously considering getting out some bailing wire and figuring out a way to keep the linkage sitting in the cup but letting it move. Also bonus points for a part number or source for the rubber/metal washer/grommet between the linkage and cup. Mine is pretty beat up. And maybe a part number/source for the rubber inner gear shift boot, that's pretty beat up as well.
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Hi i need to swap out the trans in my 2000 Subaru Outback 2.5l auto 4eat. I need help to make sure what i buy is compatible. Can any 00 01 02 03 04 outback used 4eat trans plug and play fit and electrically connect in my 00 outback? Ive read that the gear ratios are the same across these years, but i dont know anything about the rest or electrical connections, harnesses, etc. Please help. I need to buy the right one. I can be sure to get one only out of an outback so final drive would be the same. Thx Paul -
93 Impreza L wagon: I drove to Chicago a couple months ago and had no trouble. Came back and the next day, driving 50 mph the stick popped out of gear and would not get back into gear. When my timing belt broke a few years ago, the same thing happened. Ordered the water pump kit through rockauto and have had it for a while. Haven't fixed my car because I also have a truck. Truck is broke down so I decided to change the belt. After taking everything apart, the belt was still in tact so I changed it anyway. Put everything back together, started it and tried to drive. Light smoke and burning smell came from above the transmission area. I checked the trans fluid and was dry. About 6 years ago, my trans had a fluid leak so my buddy and I opened up the transmission and replaced the seal along with something else (I can't remember). I filled the transmission fluid, using 90w gear oil. Gears still won't engage, more light smoke and burning smell. Please tell me I didn't "F" my transmission, any help is appreciated. -
Is there such thing as a tag or casting number to help me identify what transmission this is (see pic)? I'm not sure what car came out of, it's a wrecking yard special. I was told it "should" fit any early '80s Subaru. My intention is to put it in my 1980 DL wagon. Also - I'm aware it won't bolt up to the 1600. I have a '81 wagon parts car with the 1800 I plan on swapping in. However, it's only a two-wheel drive. Hence the wrecking yard special. Thanks in advance for your help!
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Hello fellow Subaru enthusiasts! I have been experiencing automatic transmission problems for many years and the time has finally come that I can avoid fixing it any longer. Since I acquired the car in 2011 there has been a intermittent problem with the duty-C selenoid, the transmission has been binding up around corners for a long time, but the car was given to me for free so I never took the time to replace the duty-C. I do not drive the car very far so I have gotten away with this for some time now. When I do drive the car over 15 miles, the transmission heats up and starts to whine under load. After about 30 minutes of driving the scratching/grinding noise between gears is awful, its so loud I feel bad driving it. I have done 3 transmission flushes over the last 6 years, the first flush was because my transmission cooler line broke while driving 60 mph uphill and dumped all my fluid. While refilling the transmission fluid I accidentally over filled it, and drove it like that for at least 2 years. This summer I start a new job that is about 110 miles away and I know my car won't make it, not even once. I need to replace the transmission, one with less miles that does not have quite the abuse on it. I plan to remove a transmission from a matching year legacy when one appears in the junkyard and swap that. Once I find a replacement transmission I plan to bring it to a shop and have them test it before I go through the trouble of swapping it out, but I am wondering if anyone has done a project like this before? If so, were there any unexpected issues that came up? What gaskets should I purchase before so I can change them all before I install it? Is there an item number for a kit with all the gaskets? Even better, does anyone have a link to a similar situation that someone has already posted? Thanks for the help everyone! 1993 Legacy L, 4-EAT 287,452 miles -Mike -
I’m changing out the transmission on my 1990 Legacy L AWD station wagon. The # on my transmission is 3V-TY752VA1AA The # on the one I got from a wrecking yard ( supposedly from a 1992 Legacy) is the same except at the end of the id# it is AA2A instead of AA1A,. does anyone know if these two transmissions are interchangeable? Thanks, Jim -
I’m looking for a manual transmission for my 1990 Legacy AWD station wagon. does anyone know of other years/models that would also fit so I can broaden my search. Also will a trans from a 90 Legacy sedan also fit the wagon. Thamks
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Hello All, Its been several years since I've posted, but I come to you all for your wisdom. Patient: - 2008 outback XT limited, 5EAT, 157k miles, owned since ~152k miles Symptoms: - Transmission slipping, occasional hard shifts - RPMs rise when accelerating from a stop with non proportional increase in vehicle speed, bangs 2nd and 3rd gear sometimes. - "Rubbing sound" when car is running and is put in reverse or drive etc. Sound goes away when in park or neutral. The sound can be described as a light sand paper sound. May be the transmission bands slipping; I am not sure what the source of the sound is. - AT Fluid Temp light illuminates at times. first time i saw this light was after about 3 miles of some very low speed off roading. - Coolant Overheating on very large climb (3000ft, over 5 miles, in 90°+ heat) suspect partially related to ATF dumping heat into radiator. - AT fluid temp light illuminated on a 3 mile trip around town, immediately after recent maintenance*. Recent Maintenance: - Timing belt, water pump, thermostat, 11MM Oil pump, coolant temp sensor, coolant (radiator out), - Replaced ATF filter, refilled ATP to "full" mark using Subaru ATF while engine is running. - Power steering pump, engine oil cooler gasket, brakes, other unrelated blah blah My thoughts: - Intention was to replace the ATF as part of this job as well, but to keep issues separate the ATF change will be performed later. - Since the transmission was slipping prior to all the unrelated engine maintenance, (and only the ATF cooler and filter loop was opened, but refilled) the transmission should otherwise be slipping, heating up the flood, and shifting hard as it was prior to the radiator removal event. My questions: Any ideas as to what is causing the slipping? I suspect slipping and hard shifting is somewhat separate, as the hard shifting could be due to something valve body related. Should I proceed with a drain and replace of the ATF and return to full mark (while engine is running) or don't bother. Am I looking at a potential torque converter, valve body assembly, full transmission replacement? Thanks all! Related threads I've found: https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/171114-outback-5eat-vs-cvt/?tab=comments#comment-1417184 https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/170318-5eat-blown-transmission-cooler-fitting/?tab=comments#comment-1411338 https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/171001-fb25-engine-reliability/?page=2&tab=comments#comment-1417221 https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/170658-transmission-engine-or-all-the-above/?tab=comments#comment-1413879 ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/170283-2005-turbo-xt-outback-exhaust-question/?tab=comments#comment-1411088 https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/170283-2005-turbo-xt-outback-exhaust-question/?tab=comments#comment-1411071 https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/169577-05obxt-vs-03-forester/?tab=comments#comment-1405536 -
My partner was driving her Legacy down the freeway. She got pissed off by another driver and romped up to 100mph (I already yelled at her for doing this). She said that suddenly the car starting getting jerky and slowing down. She kept trying to accelerate and said that her RPMs read 4000-5000, but she coasted to a stop off the exit. The engine didn’t stop until she shut it off to try to start again, but it wouldn’t turn over and her lights dimmed and died. I tried to jump her, it would crank then not start. I took the battery and alternator to get tested, the alternator was fine, the battery was completely shot. New battery and the car will crank, maybe catch for a second or two if I romp on the gas, but not fully start. I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key to the “ON” position and can hear it whenever I press the gas pedal. When cranking I can hear a godawful metal-on-metal chirp coming from somewhere in the engine block. I checked the timing belt. All four visible pulleys are aligned, I haven’t checked under the main cam-shaft pulley yet. I’m really at my wits end, the little metal shriek/chirp seems to be at a semi-regular interval. I don’t know why the transmission would decouple from the engine midrun, and how that would keep the engine from starting. I hooked up a reader for fault codes... unfortunately it is showing nothing since the battery was dead and I can’t get it running long enough to throw a code. -
I have a 2010 Tribeca with 175k miles. I bought it used a few years ago without autoshop work papers or receipts, so I'm not sure what works been done. Overall, it drives smooth and without issues. Today my check engine light, AT Oil Temp, Cruise, and Traction control lights came on. I brought it to O'Riellys for a code read, and they said it was P0700. Today and a few weeks ago, I was at about 15 mph and accelerating slowly, and my car jolted hard, but it's only happened twice and at low gears. Can anyone give me some insight on what the issue may be, and how expensive it will be to resolve? Obvi my transmission is funky, but any info is helpful. And is it neccesary to bring it to a shop or is it a self doable fix? -
Hey super new. And there is probably a good forum you can point me to. But here is the issue I am having with my 1989 FWD GL. I just bought the car it has 100,000 miles and looks to be in ok condition. While driving it I noticed it was slow going in and out of gears and had a lot of trouble in reverse. When in reverse It would rev and slowly back up like a boat then it would get more traction and be fine. NBD I thought, it was old and cost me a couple of hundred bucks and when it goes bad I’ll put some hair on my chest and learn a bit more about cars. Lol. The next day while driving the transmission decides that going into gears isn’t cool. Press down on the gas and it revs like it’s in neutral. I check the fluids. (Which I promise I was going to do that that day.) Everything looks good except the ATF is empty. That can’t be good. So I fill it to proper levels at proper temps. Shift through the gears. Drain, clean the atf filter and pan. Refill. The car still doesn’t move. It’s not leaking any atf. Not a drop. So after some research I have a few ideas. Governor gear getting apple cored. Vacuum Modulator sucking atf into the engine and burning it. or A host of issues that all at up to transmission says no. THANKS IN ADVANCE!
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Hello all! I've owned several Outbacks in my life but the newest I ever owned was an '03; much has changed since then, obviously!!! I'm considering buying a late model (current generation) Outback with the 6 cylinder engine but am leery of CVTs in general. All the Subarus I've owned have been 4 cylinder, manual transmission vehicles. Knowing that the Outback hasn't been offered with a stick shift for many years I'm left to choose between a CVT and an "old school" automatic. I have two questions for you folks: 1. What was the last year that Subaru offered an automatic (that is, non-CVT) transmission in an Outback? 2. What are your general thoughts, pro v. con, concerning the Subaru CVT? FWIW, I will NEVER tow with a vehicle I own so that's doesn't even enter into my thinking on this. I welcome your input!! -
Hello, I Had Finally Worked Out All The Bugs With My 83' Subaru GL Wagon, D/R 4x4. - Previous Posting About It Falling On Its Face... The Other Day, Was Driving It And It Was Acting, As It Was Before, When My Fuel Filters Were Clogged. In Turn, I Was Heading To Get New Ones. I Had Turned Around, Headed Back Home. While Depressing My Clutch Pedal, I Heard A "Pop" Sound. Figured It Was My Cable. Inspecting Cable All Good, Minus The Slight Fraying Right At The Pedal. Checked Hill Holder Cable, Fine Too. - I Had Partial Clutch. Went into Gears, To Then Grinding Into Gears, To 1500' From My Driveway, At A 4-Way Intersection, No Gears At All. Whether The Car Is Running, Or Not, I Can't Get It Into Either 4-Gears, Or Reverse. I Am Leaving Tomorrow Morning, Moving To Oregon. Have To Leave Subi Behind. Just So Happens An, 88' Transmission Dual-Range For Sale Near By, $150 obo. -- Is It Compatible With My 83'? CV-Shafts, Bellhousing, Clutch, Etc.? Can I Just Drop Mine, Install This One No Modding? Thanks For Any/All Input! -
(updated with the answer) Symptoms: The transmission on my 5 speed 2000 Legacy GT (AWD) sounds like an angle grinder or go-cart (grinding/buzzing/putting noise). Started making noise overnight, in every gear and in neutral, sounds like something rotating/grinding and is proportional to the car's speed. When the car isn't moving there isn't any noise. Another interesting thing is that in 5th gear (possibly others, but most noticeable in 5th) it makes noise with 0 throttle, less noise with 1/8th throttle, and then more noise again if you go past that. What more knowledgeable friends have said: A trusted mechanic said it's probably a bearing in the transmission, but he doesn't work on them so I'm not confident he knows the exact issue. A good friend said he had a similar issue on his 2000s era Forester, and it was the center differential, but I've heard that if the differential is the issue, the symptoms will get worse while making tight turns, and I haven't experienced that, at least at low speeds. Possibly relevant info: I had a rear tire replaced this past summer, they didn't shave it down. I measured them and it was essentially the same size. Maybe a small difference in diameter caused an issue? ANSWER: I'm transcribing from the mechanic so this may not be 100% accurate: The transfer gear was split, which damaged/destroyed center differential (and the back clip came off). The transfer case damaged as well. The mechanic said it was just normal wear and tear, so I'm not sure if this had anything to do with one of the tires being replaced. -
Hey guys, I got my 85 FrankinSoob GL with EJ22 swap. I have a few questions about some future build plans. Rather than have a bunch of posts I thought I'd only compile one. So here it goes A) Has anyone played with the gearing in the stock EA 5speed with the dual range? I really like this transmission, but it doesn't quite have the gearing for today's highway speeds. I want to lengthen the ratios for 4 and 5 to where I can cruise at 80 comfortably. Or is it just best to do the trans swap? B)Does anyone know the weight difference between the EJ and EA flywheels? I want to lighten the EA flywheel a little bit to get higher rpm without harming the engine. But also not enough to loose a substantial amount of low end torque. I read a build thread that mentioned using the XT flywheel, but finding one of those in my area might be a little hard. C) Lifting? I want to do a small suspension lift but preferably don't want to lift the body. What's the max height you can go before the CVs are at to much of an angle to cause damage? I found an old GL at the local UPull that looked to have a 4in suspension lift with a 3in body lift. But that's a little more than I desire. Thanks for reading!!! If you have answers please I would love to hear. Cheers.
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I was considering forking out $$$ once again for a group N (STI) transmission mount for the Legacy, as I bought one a few years ago and fitted it to the Forester with very happy results. Then I found the remains of the windshield adhesive sealant I had recently used to toughen up the Vivio’s failing engine mounts, and I then dug out the Forester’s old soft transmission mount, still in one piece... ....So I am experimenting with... One original Forester SF trans mount, Two unused hard rubber bushes from a Fiat Panda’s trailing arms, 1/2 tube of windshield adhesive/sealant. - -Thoroughly clean and degrease the mount, and force in the bushes (bench vise did the trick): -Tape up one side to prevent seepage: -Squeeze in sealant from the open side as thoroughly as possible: -Do what you will with the excess, and leave to cure for a few weeks: When it is cured I shall remove the Legacy’s existing mount and compare them both in the hand, before fitting and coming back with an update. I am expecting a firmer mount, though not as stiff as the real STI component.
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So My 04 legacy jumped a gear pulling into a parking lot threw a p0866 engine code defined as a TCM Communication Circuit High. Also the flashing AT oil temp light. Is there a diagram I can see to find out if I’m able to access the issue or is it more internal and I’ll have to pull the trans for repair -
I've got a 2002 Subaru Legacy Outback with a 5-speed manual transmission and I've been driving it for almost ten years. Just lately I've started having problems hitting the correct gears when I shift. I try to put it in 1st and I hit 3rd. I try to get into 2nd and I hit 4th. Sometimes I try to go into 3rd and I hit 5th. And there have even been several times when I've been shifting into 4th and I've hit reverse (which is really disturbing). It seems that all the proper gear positions are drifting to the left, so I'm now hitting one gear to the right of where I should be. The problem only started about a month ago, and it's definitely getting worse every day. Any idea what could be causing this? Is there some bolt that holds the transmission in place and could be coming loose? Or maybe the rods connected to the gear shift are starting to bend? Everything else is working and the car is driving fine, but changing gears is just going to be impossible if this keeps getting worse. -
Hello everyone. I’m new to the site . Just bought my first Subaru. A 1979 Brat I am attempting to resurrect. Anyways I picked up this transmission for $50. I was told it was a 5 Speed Subaru dual range. Can’t find any identitying marks on it. I need help, any ideas?
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Im looking to purchase a 2011 Subaru Impreza 2.5i, however it, just like all automatic subarus before its time, is stuck with one of the worst automatic transmissions in the history of the planet. I also own a 1999 Nissan Altima, and it to has a 4-speed automatic. My question is, is it possible to swap in a 5speed transmission, like one found in the later legacy models, or is this a no go. I would like for the swap to be somewhat painless, obviously it will take some elbow grease and a few moments of pure frustration, but is it possible? Ive considered a manual, however, i just cant be bothered. I do a lot of highway driving and id love to just throw the sucker in drive and be on my merry way. -
I'm new here and new to Subarus. I have a 1997 Legacy Outback 2.5 automatic AWD, and I think it needs a new transmission. The model number on the bell housing is tz102z2cba-dt. I've found a japanese import transmission that I'm told will work, model number tz102z1caa-dg apparently from a 1998 Outback. Does anyone know if this is correct? I'm looking for a direct replacement, if possible, and I'm having some difficulty finding these model numbers online to really compare them. Any help would be greatly appreciated. -
I have a 2010 Outback with 145,000 miles. In October the throw-out bearing failed requiring a clutch repair. a week following the repair the transmission would pop out of reverse. My mechanic determined that a replacement transmission was needed. Weighing the cost options (new, used, rebuild) I went with a used transmission (with a warrantee). The replacement transmission worked for a week then developed the same problem. I am on my 2nd replacement transmission and now after 2 months it pops out of reverse. What is causing this or is being overlooked here?
