Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'wheel bearings'.
Found 2 results
-
Hello, I've been lurking in the forums for some time now and have always been able to do a search and find an answer. Currently I'm broken down on a road trip and need some help. The left rear wheel bearing was growling and I was able to limp it to a garage to work on. I have everything taken apart, and am in the process of putting the new wheel bearings in. When I slid the new race into the hub, there is between .10 and .20 of play. I'm thinking I have 1 of 2 problems: 1) I have the wrong wheel bearing. The one I have is listed as for 79-newer subarus. 2.28" diameter outer. Part #513056 or variations of it for Timken, National and Duralast. 2) The old race spun and expanded and that is why it still needed to be pressed out. I don't have a lot of options as I'm broken down in a friend of a friends garage. 1) take it to a junkyard 2)make a spacer for the wheel bearings I have. 3)find a new swing arm assembly (impossible in this part of idaho) Can anybody tell me if the 79 wheel bearings are different? It seems like the race should be snug at least in the hub. ANY and all help is appreciated. 1979 Subaru DL Wagon 4x4 1600. 300,000+ miles.
-
I've read quite a bit of conflicting information about the rear wheel bearing problems with late 90's early 2000's Subarus. My problem was on a 2000 Forester, right side rear, 147K miles. I purchased aftermarket bearings from NAPA, Part# SKF GRW175. Upon receiving these, the first thing I noticed, was that there was no visible grease in the rollers, so I opened the assembly, and found a very small amount of a clearish yellow grease that was about the consistency of Vaseline. When I asked the guy at NAPA about it, he said they were pre-lubricated with the correct amount of grease, and I should put them in as they are. I don't think so. The grease in the assembly did not look like any quality bearing grease I ever used, and the bearings were not properly packed. In fact, they weren't packed at all. I blew the grease out of the bearings and practically nothing came out. I cleaned out the Vaseline with brake parts cleaner and compressed air (careful) and properly packed the bearings with Moly-Graph grease. Another aspect of this job that I haven't gotten to yet is how to set the clearance. In the old days, you would take the opposing tapered roller bearings carefully to zero end play with the adjusting nut, then back it off to provide a small amount of end play. if you press the assembly together, there cold end play should be correct, but does anyone out there ever verify this? If so, does anyone have a method of doing it? I read about folks having multiple failures of these bearings after installing aftermarket parts, and even OEM bearings. The items I addressed above may be contributing to this high incidence of failure. Having gone through the lateral link bolt removal hell, I never want to do this job again.
