pickstock Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 ok so not sure if this has been done or said in another thread im looking to build a hydrolich rear diff lock for my subaru l seires. any one designed or though about this?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 just weld it:grin: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeamCF Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 Yeah it's been talked about alot but nothing has ever come of it. The big problem is not much room in the rear diff. Plus no aftermarket demand. Though we would all love one on here. Thats just not enough for a locker company to make the investment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jg09 Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 I've heard some horror stories about welding Subie rear diffs. I believe the Lokka is an option. It's not a true locker, but it's better than nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeamCF Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 I didn't see any Soobs listed on thier application guide for the Lokka. They do list Volvos though..... Where were thy back when I was wheeling my old 144 sedan?! http://www.4wdsystems.com.au/index.php?id=70 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3eyedwagon Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 I've heard some horror stories about welding Subie rear diffs. I believe the Lokka is an option. It's not a true locker, but it's better than nothing. What horror stories could there possibly be about welding Subaru diffs that would be any different than welding any other kind of differential. You are heating precision machined gears to about 3000* F and introducing new metals of different composition, and tensile strengths in a somewhat violent manner. Kinda like fishing with hand grenades. What could possibly go wrong? Seriously, it doesn't matter if it is a Chevrolet, Toyota, Range Rover, or Pagani. Welding a diff is welding a diff. Just do it, and live with it. The only difference is if you whipe out a Subaru diff; you are out about $25. This one's been talked to death. Another idea that just isn't worth the time or money for what the ultimate result will be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jg09 Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 What horror stories could there possibly be about welding Subaru diffs that would be any different than welding any other kind of differential. You are heating precision machined gears to about 3000* F and introducing new metals of different composition, and tensile strengths in a somewhat violent manner. Kinda like fishing with hand grenades. What could possibly go wrong? Seriously, it doesn't matter if it is a Chevrolet, Toyota, Range Rover, or Pagani. Welding a diff is welding a diff. Just do it, and live with it. The only difference is if you whipe out a Subaru diff; you are out about $25. This one's been talked to death. Another idea that just isn't worth the time or money for what the ultimate result will be. Yeah, but a GM 14-Bolt is going to hold up a lot better than a Subie diff. Hell, a Toyota 8" will probably hold up better. Welding the rear diff stresses the diff, axleshafts, and tires quite a bit when cornering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted September 18, 2009 Share Posted September 18, 2009 Seriously, it doesn't matter if it is a Chevrolet, Toyota, Range Rover, or Pagani. Welding a diff is welding a diff. Just do it, and live with it. The only difference is if you whipe out a Subaru diff; you are out about $25. Dude, the difference isn't in the welding of the diff, its the breaking of every part the diff powers. Your subaru diff, welded, will destroy CV joints, cups & shafts all day long. Ive seen pictures from almost every wheeling trip documented with a welded rig, and that rig and its driver rebuilding axles, re-installing diffs on the trail, every one of them comming home filthy, mudy and covered in gear oil. Take any other diff, in a real axle... weld it, and go on your merry way. Solid axle shafts do not break like the cups of a CV joint. Also, to the Original Poster... this subject has been beat to death with chains. The only option you have is a limited slip diff from a RX, or to weld your diff and lock it solid. A selectable locker is not available, but i bet if you gave ARB or any of the other locking diff manuafacturers anywhere between $12,000 to $15,000 they will make one for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3eyedwagon Posted September 18, 2009 Share Posted September 18, 2009 Dude, the difference isn't in the welding of the diff, its the breaking of every part the diff powers. Your subaru diff, welded, will destroy CV joints, cups & shafts all day long. Ive seen pictures from almost every wheeling trip documented with a welded rig, and that rig and its driver rebuilding axles, re-installing diffs on the trail, every one of them comming home filthy, mudy and covered in gear oil. Take any other diff, in a real axle... weld it, and go on your merry way. Solid axle shafts do not break like the cups of a CV joint. . You pretty much totally misunderstood what I said, and then re-stated in different words. I've seen what they will break, in person, so you can skip the preaching. I've seen what others will break, in person, as well. It doesn't matter if it is a $1000 plus locker, a mini-spool, or a big nasty puddle of weld goober. They all make the same *SNAP* when the weakest link fails. Try an air locker in the front of your Yota without a Birfield eliminator kit, then get back to me about solid axle shafts not breaking. :-\ My point was: In the case of Subarus; you may as well make that snap as cheap as possible. Like I said; the juice on this one aint worth the squeeze. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 18, 2009 Share Posted September 18, 2009 You will break axles with a welded diff if you run them at a severe enough angle, but if you run them relatively flat you will likely twist the stubs off the diff first. If you want a locker, go to a larger diff - either a Hitachi R180 or an R200. I'm pretty sure the R200's used in the older Nissan truck IFS have locker options. It would require mods, but if you are going with a large lift anyway it can be done. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted September 18, 2009 Share Posted September 18, 2009 Birfield eliminator kits are the worse thing to have happend to the toyota industry. You wont see me running a locker up front until i got longfields, and then Im not ever breaking anything... you verified my point with your mention of weakest links. Subaru's have MANY... Chevy, Toyota, everyone else have little... unless you want to run 40" tires but that is a whole new world alltogether. Regardless, the options for lockers in subaru's has never changed. And it wont anytime soon cause no company will spend the R&D in the hopes they can sell 10 or 20 lockers to the select few who are willing to drop $$$$ on real gear. Subaru wheelers dont want to spend big bucks. Its why we wheel(ed) Subarus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pickstock Posted September 19, 2009 Author Share Posted September 19, 2009 yeah im gonna try to build a hydrolich locker:banana: if i do it i might see about selling a few but dunno Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted September 19, 2009 Share Posted September 19, 2009 have fun with that........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted September 19, 2009 Share Posted September 19, 2009 Ive wheeled a welded stock 3.9 subaru Diff for the last few years, the diff will hold up , Ive broke 3 stub shafts , ( thats the splined part sticking out the diff its hollow and thats the weak point ) ive brocken 2 rear axles and seen 1 other rear brake this is on a EA82 , 2 of the axles snapped the shaft in 2 and 1 the cup part gave out, and this is with a 27" tire, I would suggest go with a LSD , or weld it up and be prepared to fix axles and stub shafts on the trail, good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
one eye Posted September 19, 2009 Share Posted September 19, 2009 Weld it, There are a ton of extra rearends, and rear axles around. If you have and EA81 swap the bells. other wise like Monstaru said, Good luck.... Or you could just get a different rig....................but every rig has its weak link................ Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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