Need An Opinion!

[ViceMan]

Ok, so here is where I am at. I posted on the forums not to long ago that my transmission had failed, and it was suggested that it would be the governor gear. I checked it out and it was not, it was good. So now it has come down to a decision, either get a new(used/reconditioned) transmission from 750 to 1000 dollars depending on the millage on the transmission, or take the money and some extra and get a another car preferably another Subaru. I wouldn't mind putting in a new transmission but my engine, an EA82 SPFI, is having issues like high engine temp even on cold days even when driving a relatively short distance, voltage fluctuations. also it needs shocks and breaks. I wouldn't mind doing the work myself but I have not done something like that, and no idea where to start. If someone or several someones are willing to help out and provide some jacks or a lift, i would be more than willing to help and learn. anyway so there are the facts. Also if anyone has has seen a descent Subaru for sale in the Portland metro area please tell me. Thanks for your help and time.

[GeneralDisorder]

I'm pretty loaded with my own projects right now or I would give you a hand.

 

That said, a transmission swap does not require a lift. You need a jack, and 4 jack stands ($100 tops at Harbor Frieght), and the willingness to get the job done.

 

You get the car as high as the jack stands will go (I like the 6-ton models for their added height), and start unbolting stuff.

 

If you search on here you can find an outline of the procedure for swapping a tranny. I've covered it multiple times.

 

Call Foster Auto Parts or any of the other auto-recyclers around the portland metro - you should be able to get a used tranny with a warrantee for around $200 to $300. If you are the adventurous type - find a wrecked EA82 at one of the LKQ u-pull-it yards (wrecked because you know it must have drove well enough to hit something!) and pull the tranny yourself - $119 + $25 core. That way you also get to see how everything comes apart on a vehicle that isn't your own so doesn't matter if you break something.

 

Overheating issues are rarely difficult to fix on the non-turbo EA82's such as your's. Could easily just need a new radaitor, etc.

 

I say fix it but that's up to you - you could spent $1000 on another car that needs just as much money put into it. Unless you are prepared to spend $3,000 to $5,000 (and even then nothing is gauranteed) then you are better off with the evil you know vs. the evil you don't.

 

GD

Edited September 20, 2009 by GeneralDisorder

[ViceMan]

Ok, I figure I am going crazy but I am going to go with it. So I have decided to do it myself, not without a certain amount of what the hell am I thinking. I am going to call around to see what kind of prices/warrantees are out there. Also while I am doing this new brakes, shocks, oil pressure sensor, and possibly a new radiator thermostat and radiator.

 

btw, What kind of shocks do you guys recommend? I will be doing all four corners, same with brakes.

 

Now I would prefer to have someone who has done some things on his/her Subaru to help out. I will offer food and some money. Pm if you have the time or whatever. thanks to all the people that have helped me out with advice and knowledge in the last week or so.

 

ViceMan

Edited September 21, 2009 by ViceMan

[mcrae0104]

Hey ViceMan--

 

I can't tell you anything about the tranny swap, but I recently did front brakes (new rotors+pads) on my '91 Loyale for the first time a few weeks ago. It's really not that bad, just follow your manual. The things I learned were:

 

1) When removing the spindle nut, you need a way to keep the wheel from spinning. I used a 4' length of steel pipe jammed diagonally between two of the lugs, with the end braced against the ground. You'll probably need another length of pipe as a cheater on the end of your breaker bar, so have those on hand before starting.

 

2) I found that the spindle nuts on the driver and passenger side were different sizes (32mm and 36 mm--guess one of them must've been replaced by a mech. at some point) which meant one more trip to the parts store for another socket. So pull your wheel covers off and check that you have the right socket sizes.

 

3) Some (if not all) of the EA82 models require a special tool to compress the piston back into the caliper before you put new pads in (I gather this has something to do with the parking brake attaching to the front discs, but you'd have to ask someone else why). When you look at the face of the piston, it has some divots in it. The tool I got was a little 3/4" cube (~$10). One side snaps onto your ratchet and the opposite face has some tiny studs that mate with the divots in the piston. You just screw the piston clockwise, but it takes some patience. I also learned that when doing this it REALLY helps to clamp the caliper in a stationary position--I used some 12" bar clamps for this. If you don't clamp it, you'll be trying to hold the caliper with one hand while screwing the piston with the other and you'll get frustrated fast! I didn't take a picture of this, and the positioning is hard to describe, but you'll figure out a way to immobilize the caliper while screwing in the piston.

 

4) After you've put it all back together, bleed each brake until several ounces (say, 12 oz or so) comes out. I bled them once, and the bubbles quit after the first few squirts, but the brakes were still spongy. Another bleeding and things were fine. The "one-man-bleeder" kits are nice, but it's helpful to have somebody else to press the pedal while you watch the bubbles (if any) come out.

 

All of this took me a full day, but that's just since it was my first time and I had to make multiple trips to the store. If you have everything you need beforehand, it might take 6 hours (and a lot less the next time).

 

Sorry for the long post, but hopefully it save you some time and head scratching. Good luck!!!