hardtail_pride Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 So i have completed the motor swap into my 94 Loyale wagon. So excited. The motor was just a good running EA82 so just staying stock. I have run into some wiring issues, the oil warning light flickers and is more steady as the motor revs up. Oil level is full. Is this a bad ground or connection maybe? And Only the drivers window rolls down. Where would i look to troubleshoot these issues. Thanks! Weird side note, this loyale's dash doesn't have an oil pressure gauge or voltmeter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardtail_pride Posted September 20, 2009 Author Share Posted September 20, 2009 Oh and also i have to replace the muffler. What would be a good one with sufficient back pressure? Without the muffler now its guttless. Would any run of the mill turbo muffler be good? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kybishop Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 My 86 GL is mufflerless at the moment. She seems to like it but a bit loud, nice rumble though. I have a new NAPA pipe and muffler I probably will not be using. I bought it and was going to use it but have recently aquired a 87 SPFI low mileage doner with new exhaust. I think I gave $120 or so for it new from NAPA. It is the whole back half, pipe and muffler. Not sure if it will fit your 94, bought it for an 86 GL wagon. Muffler is at very back, exits on left and has 2 hanger just in front of rear bumper. One hanger on each side of muffler, at back of muffler. Be a bit to pack and ship though. I am in central KY. Not sure on your electrical gremlins, those can be quite difficult. Sounds like the one flickering light would just be a bad connection or bad wire shorting a bit. KB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 The flickering light is most likely due to a high ripple voltage coming from the alternator, meaning bad diodes inside it. Replacing the alternator with a rebuilt one should take care of that trouble. There could be a number of things wrong with the window circuits. The switches for each window need to make a connection for the master switch to work each one. Dirty contacts in the switches is a common problem and they can be cleaned if you take them apart. There are springs inside that will fly out if you aren't careful. If you do take them apart I recommend you do it in a clear plastic bag. Another common trouble with the window operation is broken wires in the door jamb. You should get a set of wiring diagrams to help guide you if you want to fix the trouble yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 most likely, I've seen it several times now, not just on my stuff, the wires are broken where they pass through the door - the master driver window works, because it's grounding out through the other window circuits but there is a break, or open, in the other window circuits read this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=95487 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markus56 Posted September 21, 2009 Share Posted September 21, 2009 loyales don't have nicer things the GLs do. for instance the 94 model did not come with oil pressure and voltmeter. but the other years do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardtail_pride Posted September 21, 2009 Author Share Posted September 21, 2009 Could that be the problem with my flickering light? There is a mixed signal being sent to the light and the gauge that would be there in the car the motor came from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markus56 Posted September 21, 2009 Share Posted September 21, 2009 I honestly couldn't tell you. I would have the alternator tested and see if that is the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Beast I Drive Posted September 21, 2009 Share Posted September 21, 2009 If the car the motor came out of had an oil gauge, then it has a different sending unit than the motor from the Loyal with the idiot light. You need to swap out the sending units and that should solve the problem. -Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted September 21, 2009 Share Posted September 21, 2009 The flickering light is due to ripple voltage coming from the alternator. When some of the diodes are damaged inside it this causes a gap in the charging current and the voltage drops. When the alternator phase gets to good diode set the voltage goes higher then. It is this cycling that causes the flickering of the light. Place a voltmeter across the battery and measure the AC across it while the engine is running about 2,000 RPM. If you see more than .1 volt of AC voltage the alternator is bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted September 21, 2009 Share Posted September 21, 2009 The flickering light is due to ripple voltage coming from the alternator. When some of the diodes are damaged inside it this causes a gap in the charging current and the voltage drops. When the alternator phase gets to good diode set the voltage goes higher then. It is this cycling that causes the flickering of the light. Place a voltmeter across the battery and measure the AC across it while the engine is running about 2,000 RPM. If you see more than .1 volt of AC voltage the alternator is bad. With much respect I am going to say you are wrong. Here's why. The sender for the Oil Pressure gauge,like is in a GL, makes a lower resistance to ground as the pressure goes higher. Top of the gauge, 85 psi, is signaled by an almost zero ohm connection to ground. Now the sender for the Oil Pressure Light is exactly opposite. When the pressure drops to near zero, it connects the circuit directly to fully grounded, triggering the warning light "NO OIL PRESSURE", that's what the light means. So you see.....his Gauge sending unit is grounding when revved up and the pressure is high. Opposite of the simple switch type sender for the light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted September 21, 2009 Share Posted September 21, 2009 Thanks for the explanation on the senders Gloyale and I follow what you say there. After thinking about this problem again I have gotten side tracked with the bad alternator idea. If this trouble was due to the alternator then usually more of the warning lights also flicker. In the back of my mind I knew this but ignored it when I first posted. Thanks again Gloyale as your help is always appreciated here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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