camseal changing problems...

[timfreddo]

hi.

Yay, finally got the crankshaft pulley off, used the old ignition bump.

now have to get the bloody cam pulleys off, tried a couple of ways to keep them still but no luck!

Any tips to holding them still that dont involve putting it all back together and undoing while under belt tension?

 

decided i'll sort them out on my next day off while i wait for a reply from you...

 

next up, change oil pump o-ring.

undo all the bolts, pump is a mother -f-er to get off, eventually got it off, swapped the o-ring, do up 6 of the 7 bolts, on the 7th....FRIKING SNAP THE BOLT!!!....

this leads to another question...

What do i do??? i recon the bolt snapped at about engine block depth. im guessing if it snapped with a bit of thread in each side, it'll still hold the pump on.

however...

if it snapped with none in the front half of the oil pump, im guessing its f*&ked and will start to leak????

 

one more thing (before im up to this step for once)

how do you get the cam pulleys and crank pullys done up tight enough?

 

 

i was under the impression only 2.5L legacies were quad cam... but my car's labelled a T-SR??

 

Cheers for reading this much if you did

 

Tim.

Edited September 27, 2009 by timfreddo

[Legacy777]

Tim,

 

What year & model subaru do you have, and what model engine?

 

There is a tool that subaru makes to hold the cam gears. This can be accomplished by making a tool to do this. Also an impact wrench will loosen the bolt up without any problems. They make electric impact wrenches, and they do work pretty good.

 

As for installing and torquing the cam pullies, a tool to hold the pullies is going to be needed. Some people have used a strap wrench with success.

 

The crank pulley, you have a couple options, if it's a MT, you can put the trans if 5th gear, and have someone step on the brakes while you torque the crank pulley. If the car is an AT you can remove the access plug on the bell housing of the engine and stick a pry bar or something in the back of the flex plate to keep the engine from rotating.

 

Make sure to torque the crank pulley bolt to 110-120 ft-lbs. Most of the manuals list an incorrect torque value.

[timfreddo]

i'm pretty sure its a 1994 legacy ts-r. chassis a BG-5 if that helps.

Any news on the napped off bolt problem??

Cheers

Tim.

[Legacy777]

Do you have a 2.2 or 2.5? Is it single or dual over head cam?

 

Have you removed the pump again to try and get access to the bolt? I ended up snapping a bolt when I rebuilding my motor. I pulled the block halves apart again, and drilled the bolt and used an extractor to back the broken bolt out. It was loose in there, and threaded right out.

 

It may be a little tedious, but that's probably what I'd suggest.

[ccarbaru]

I did a 2.2 Tbelt and all the Wpump and seals in there almost exactly a year ago today, did the same thing and overtorqued a bolt in the oil pump; used a long rachet- tired and not thinking. I called it a day and went out the next morning and pulled the pump off and luckily the bolt was barely sticking out of the block. Was able to grab it with a pair of needlenose type surgical tweezers from the tiny piece that was sticking out. Very slowly unscrewed it as it was oddly not that tight in the block; then started over again resealing everything. Not too big of a deal to redo everything but got somewhat lucky for sure. Didn't have to use an extractor of sorts. One thing to remember is those bolts are small diameter, can't remember the specs but not too much torque. A short rachet with a 1/4 drive is about the right tool it seemed. Everything worked out perfect.