ViceMan Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 ok here is what i have done. Checked the governor gear, it was fine, no coring and the plunger was working well so i put it back in with a new gasket and gasket sealer on clean surface and tightened the bolts. Then I remembered that I had white smoke coming out my tail pipe. discovered that this could be due to a faulty vacuum regulator (by the way, when I went to get the part it was labeled as a transmission module, the part number FM-2324 will work but if you call it a vacuum regulator you are liable to get a different part). so got a replacement and installed it. is there anything i need to do after i install that? like prime it? and the transmission fluid reads that it is full. Ok so I did all that and test drove it. I can now drive forward like normal and the idle rate is back to where it was before. but now when I put my foot on the gas to speed up it just revs up the engine instead of speeding my car up. Also I put it into reverse and it will not back up just rev the engine. so is there anything I am missing or anything more I can do to see if its just failed parts or my whole transmission? And just to remind you all, my car is a 1988 subaru gl, spfi, nonturbo, with an automatic trans and an ea 82 engine. I would like to thank everyone who has helped me with advice and other nuggets of info that has gotten me this far. Also thanks to the Ultimate Subaru Repair manual ( http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/subrepair.htm ) and the Haynes DIY repair manual. Sincerely ViceMan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 Transmission is slipping, and there is no cheap fix for that. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 Did it do this before you had the transmission apart? I had something similar happen to me years ago when i went to get an oil pan off one of these auto transmissions. It would not clear the exhaust so i used a screwdriver to try to inch it by. Problem was that i i didnt know that i had crushed one of the metal lines inside the oil pan. No trans fluid pressure = no go. Once i fixed that line everything went back to normal. This is not necessarily the problem but just throwing that out there. Otherwise, as nipper said, you will be looking for another transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViceMan Posted September 29, 2009 Author Share Posted September 29, 2009 ok, my transmission had a slight problem switching gears and while that was going on two others where happening 1. white smoke out of my tailpipe, 2. idle revs where a lot higher than normal. No problems going into reverse. So I did what a said above. So after I replaced the vacuum Regulator and the previously mentioned idle revs are now normal but won't reverse and normal forward driving up to like 1200-1400 then just over rev instead of forward speed. So there it is. and the atf fluid shows normal, even after taking out the vacuum regulator and having it drain. so i need to add a bit more? Just wanted to give you more info should it change anything. also should i just run my car for a bit to let the new part get working or does it matter? Hatchsub, can you give me more info on the metal lines and where they are located? thanks. Thanks again. ViceMan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 They are inside the transmission pan on the passenger side of the car if i remember correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 The tranny is shot. There is just no point in fixing those 3AT's - get yourself together the parts for the 5 speed swap and be on your way again. I've dealt with my share of bad 3AT's and if a new governor and/or modulator doesn't fix them it's time to throw them in the scrap heap. They are touchy transmissions as it is so there's not much point in fixing them. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruparts Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 ok here is what i have done. Checked the governor gear, it was fine, no coring and the plunger was working well so i put it back in with a new gasket and gasket sealer on clean surface and tightened the bolts. Then I remembered that I had white smoke coming out my tail pipe. discovered that this could be due to a faulty vacuum regulator (by the way, when I went to get the part it was labeled as a transmission module, the part number FM-2324 will work but if you call it a vacuum regulator you are liable to get a different part). so got a replacement and installed it. is there anything i need to do after i install that? like prime it? and the transmission fluid reads that it is full. Ok so I did all that and test drove it. I can now drive forward like normal and the idle rate is back to where it was before. but now when I put my foot on the gas to speed up it just revs up the engine instead of speeding my car up. Also I put it into reverse and it will not back up just rev the engine. so is there anything I am missing or anything more I can do to see if its just failed parts or my whole transmission? And just to remind you all, my car is a 1988 subaru gl, spfi, nonturbo, with an automatic trans and an ea 82 engine. I would like to thank everyone who has helped me with advice and other nuggets of info that has gotten me this far. Also thanks to the Ultimate Subaru Repair manual ( http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/subrepair.htm ) and the Haynes DIY repair manual. Sincerely ViceMan Hi, There is a service procedure in the manual about replacing that vac modulator. but i think it is supposed to connect to a little link that connects inside the trans, so when the diaphram in the modulator moves it moves the link and the inner something. I am not a trans guy but i read through this one time working on one. maybe someone has more details on how to adjust it. there were adjustment notches mentioned. LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 Is your auto a 2WD or 4WD? I might be pulling out a 2WD Auto from an '87 soon. If anything I'm going to convert the car to 4WD although I might just part it out completely as well. At any rate the tranny will be up for sale cheap as I have no use for it other than a boat anchor. Make me a reasonable offer considering it was recently flushed/new fluid and only has 120k on it. If it's reasonable enough I'll even give you a hand installing it. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 If the transmission was working before you did the work on it, then it's still fine. Either the fluid level is too low (You are checking it with the engine running and transmission in park right?) or you broke a seal installing either the governor or the modulator. You are using the right dipstick- the one that goes to the transmission by the starter motor and heater hoses rather than the one that goes to the front differential over on the passenger side of the motor. The fluid on the dipstick was pink rather than amber colored? I've never done a modulator on a 3AT, but there is usualy 0 rings and a actuating rod in there, make sure it's in right. Check the drain pan for spare parts too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 91Loyale is correct - I never thought to ask if this was brought on by some sort of service that was performed on the car - you do realize that there are TWO dipsticks for the automatic's yes? GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViceMan Posted October 1, 2009 Author Share Posted October 1, 2009 There are? Um no I did not know that. Just to be Clear on this, I have no freaking idea other than what the Haynes manual I bought and what you all tell me. This is my First time working on a car problem like that by myself. Sure I can put in oil and anti-freeze and stuff like that, I can even read And follow directions when taking out something or putting it back in. But anything more I have no idea about. Not that I haven't done research as much as possible like read the owners manual, Haynes book and the Ultimate Subaru Repair guide but It's that I don't know enough to know that I don't know, or even to ask the right questions or anything. Heck I may have even Checked the dipstick before because I check all the fluid levels I know about regularly. the one I check was directly under the full sized spare tire, which I guess is the wrong one. The only other one I can think of is one the says like power steering fluid( I think it does anyways, Will check tomorrow) in a small black box type thing up near the radiator, Which reminds me I need to replace the thermostat. Anyways This is a learning experience for me, and its because I simply do not have the money to take it anywhere. I like to learn new things, but I am starting from like the bottom. I once disassembled a small engine(read lawnmower engine) and resurrected it from the dead, so spark plugs wires crankshafts, and those parts i know but that to a whole car engine and stuff is a steep learning curve. Although I do know how to replace drum and disc brake pads from doing it myself with lots a guidance from a person who knew how. Sorry, I am rambling. anyways so if anyone can give me detailed instructions or like come and help me out I would be very appreciative. Man Talk about a Roller coaster ride with this transmission. Thanks for everyone's help and support. Sincerely, ViceMan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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