89Ru Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 (edited) '96 Impreza Outback Sport Trying to repair cut dash wiring after radio theft, and the FSM doesn't choose to specify pin numbers on the airbag control module and inflater connectors. Thought it was a typo (in the '96 FSM from STIS) so I went to the '95, its also missing, same with '97. In the case of the passenger inflater (two-wires) if polarity doesn't matter, then I can probably figure it out. Is the circuit a resistive ignitor for the gas pellet? I'm guessing its safe to put a meter on it...IF it takes battery voltage to inflate it Edited October 10, 2009 by 89Ru Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 Are they not color coded? I'm pretty sure it's a resistance type circuit. The only hang up would be if there was a diode to prevent reverse polarity. The module tests each circuit when it's powered on. Unplug the drivers airbag connector and probe it with a meter to see what a safe voltage is for testing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hankosolder2 Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 (edited) Double post Edited October 9, 2009 by hankosolder2 double post Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hankosolder2 Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 +1. I'm pretty sure the ignitor is essentially a resistor/heating element, so it should not be polarity sensitive at all. Because it's a resistive type load, there's no reason for a polarity protection/clamp diode. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89Ru Posted October 10, 2009 Author Share Posted October 10, 2009 Are they not color coded? Good call but they are not. I have GRN, GRN/WHT, PINK wire colors inside the yellow plastic conduit behind the radio and two YEL wires behind the glovebox going to what I believe is the pass side SRS inflater. I could guess which two wires of the three connect to the yellow wires, but a bad guess could be, uhh, explosive? I'll get out a meter and try to make the guess a bit smarter. Pay ~$30 for the FSM download and I still have to guess Thx for doublecheck on the lack of polarity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89Ru Posted October 10, 2009 Author Share Posted October 10, 2009 (edited) New info Car running, values to body: PINK 13.8V GRN 1.8Mohm GRN/WHT 1.8kohm Car OFF, values to body: GRN 0.7kohm GRN/WHT 1.8kohm YEL - YEL 2 ohms, no diode To spoof the SRS control box, I could put a 2 ohm load on the PINK to each of the green wires and see if the SRS light goes out, don't want to burn up the control box with a guess here though, or take apart another car to see how its wired. pics (ignore the bundle in the center, that's the radio wiring, look for the two yellow wires on the right, and the green/pink wires on the left behind the radio) http://s444.photobucket.com/albums/q...%20OBS%20EJ22/ Edited October 10, 2009 by 89Ru Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89Ru Posted October 10, 2009 Author Share Posted October 10, 2009 Solved 3 ohm test resistor across PINK and GRN wires Leave GRN/WHT disconnected (its a circuit that checks for shorts in the cable) Turn key, red Airbag dash light goes out after 8 sec Yellow SRS connector (chopped out in this case) with green button is a safety circuit (has spring contacts that close when demated to short inflater circuit and short one pole of inflator to GRN/WHT wire - short checker), button must be pushed in after mating to open internal contacts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted October 12, 2009 Share Posted October 12, 2009 They couldn't just steal the radio they had to cut half the wiring in the dash out with it didn't they? I can picture the thought process... "Lets cut all these wires so we can get away faster!" Yet it only takes a second to press in the clip and unplug the harness the right way. I don't see why it would be so hard to use the same color wires for the whole circuit. I know they want it to be obvious that its an airbag circuit (thus the yellow, caution) but it makes it really difficult to test for shorts or breaks when you don't know what wire is which because they're different colors a each end. Glad you figured it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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