quartus Posted October 13, 2009 Share Posted October 13, 2009 The digidash temp gauge on my 86 GL-10 SW EA82T 4x4 is possessed. It only works in a narrow temp band. Is the sensor for it near the thermostat (1 contact) or is it combined in the ECU (2 contact) sensor in the back near the knock sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 13, 2009 Share Posted October 13, 2009 Check the grounds for the dash. This is a common issue with the digi's. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quartus Posted October 27, 2009 Author Share Posted October 27, 2009 Is the temp display supposed to be increasing bar segments or just a single bar segment that tracks temp. Which sensor feeds it? The single one by the thermostat or the double one in the back of the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 I'm not sure on the sensor location as I haven't replaced one on a Turbo..... The gauge should have an increasing number of segments that light up as the temp rises. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quartus Posted October 27, 2009 Author Share Posted October 27, 2009 Thanks for the info, currently I only have an occasional single bar that shows up for a while and then goes away :-\ Would this be a sensor or dash problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 It's probably a sensor or grounding problem. But it could be the dash as well. Pull the sensor lead off and ground it to the block - that should give you a max reading on the gauge if it's working correctly. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 If I remember correctly the indicator does only show a single or sometimes a couple of bars as it follows the temperature changes. I suspect the trouble you are having is due to a problem with the indicator rather than the sensor. The digi dashes had some problems due to poor solder connections among other things. I think you have a bad connection to the indicator in the dash causing this trouble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W. Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 If it's the same as my 88-1.8 T, the sensor is burried under the turbo on top of the crank case. I've had the same problem with mine. Replaced the sender, but no help. I think next I'll try G.D.s idea with the poor ground. Keep us posted. Thanks S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quartus Posted October 27, 2009 Author Share Posted October 27, 2009 I have the 86 FSM but its somewhat unclear about which temp sensor feeds the digidash. It shows the single terminal sensor by the thermostat as the "needle" style gauge sensor (as opposed to digidash) and the two terminal sensor (by the knock sensor) as the input to the ECM as well as an input to temp gauge (two separate circuits in same sensor assembly). However I like simple so I'll ground out the single terminal sensor lead and see what happens. I'll be taking the dash apart to check for other electrical issues as soon as I get some good schematics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quartus Posted November 6, 2009 Author Share Posted November 6, 2009 UPDATE: OK took out the digidash & reseated all connectors and tightened up every thing I could. Gauge is staying on longer now, single traveling bar along the scale. The single terminal sensor by the thermostat is for the gauge and the two terminal sensor by the knock sensor is for the ECM. As soon as I get some help I'll try jiggling the sensor terminal to see if its has a short. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calmblin_gl10 Posted June 10, 2016 Share Posted June 10, 2016 i had a couple of possible reasons as to why this is happening and hopefully it will lead to a fix of some kind. or at least a way to know what the temp is while just ignoring the dash alltogether. one is the voltage regulator in the digi dash itself is going bad. i dont know if it has one or not but it would seem likely as a means of protection for the digital components. i pulled mine out as best as i could without disconnecting anything ( is 12 am and i gotta workat 9 but was curious) and there is a rectangle box. not sure if its the blinker indicator or a regulator. but seems a replacable enough part. i see two black wires that leave the plug on the drivers side. if looking at it like youre driving and you tilt the cluster top towards you. there is aa black with white and a straight black i can only assume is the ground. i didnt bust out my meter. but i will/ as well as try to ground it if it is when i do test it. and report back. and then theres teh regulator on the alternator. it could be good enough to charge the battery and keep the electricals running. but it may have a modulation or noize effect that causes it to act like alternating current and make things that are sensitive to electrical variables to just give a bad reading or cause multiple or all bars light up. replacing the alternator doesnt always fix this problem but what about a bridge rectifier after the alternator and then into the system to prevent there from being a modulated or pulsed current? if the alternator could cause one. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted June 10, 2016 Share Posted June 10, 2016 Very old thread. A bridge rectifier "after the alternator " would do nothing to improve the stability of power . It would cause other problems, specifically, undercharging of the battery, due to the voltage drop in the diodes. There is also the problem of wiring one correctly, since the f rqme of the alternator is grounded, and a bridge rectifier is not going to function as a bridge rectifier with any 2 of its terminals tied together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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