davesh Posted October 14, 2009 Share Posted October 14, 2009 (edited) Hello. This is my first post here. I just recently began to have an exhaust leak at the connection from the rear catalytic converter and the adjoining exhaust pipe. The vehicle is a '96 Legacy Wagon Brighton, 2.2l. After inspection, it seems as though the rear flange on the cat has rusted through, thus leaving the two sets of spring and bolts engaged on small pieces of leftover flange (the bolts are able to rotate freely--360 degress--while still engaged). I'll post some pics shortly, as I still have 1 of 2 bolts to be removed .. I purchased the gasket and a new set of springs/bolts, in hopes of tightening up the connection. Without the flange on the cat, is it possible to reinstall? When browsing the gaskets online (donut shaped), I noticed some of the gaskets listed were flange-type--maybe these are for other sections of the exhaust, but could I use one of these gasket/flanges in place of the flange that has rusted off? Would I need to go to a shop to get the piece welded onto the cat, and would the shop be willing to do the procedure? I'll have some pictures of the parts up soon (camera phone quality only). Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks! Edited October 14, 2009 by davesh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davesh Posted October 14, 2009 Author Share Posted October 14, 2009 (edited) Bolt is clutching a triangular piece of the leftover cat flange: One of the two bolts that I've managed to remove. The triangular piece on the end is about all that's left of the flange: And, a quick question.. Regarding the jackstands--there are a few places where there are depressed sections of the aluminum bottom. Are these for placing the heads of jackstands, or does anywhere in this area work OK? Edited October 14, 2009 by davesh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valvestem Posted October 14, 2009 Share Posted October 14, 2009 A welder should be able to make the repair you need if you can afford him. And he may not do it on the car, because of combustible issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davesh Posted October 14, 2009 Author Share Posted October 14, 2009 Thanks for your reply. I thought this might be the case. What's your opinion on getting one of these (exhaust gasket/similar flange) and patching it up with putty? Just for 2-3 weeks or so, until I can get some time off of work.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted October 14, 2009 Share Posted October 14, 2009 My guess is that those depressed places you speak of on the floor pan rail, are there for use by the jack when changing a flat tire. As far as your rear cat problem, I could never figure out why Subaru and other car companies use the flanges with springs and such. Whenever I need a new cat, I go to a cut and weld muffler shop. They just torch off the old cat, then slide on a new cat, then use muffler "horse shoe" style clamps to secure everything. This would work particularly well for you, as the second cat does not have an oxygen sensor screwed into it. Don't know where you live to find a bend, cut, and weld muffler shop in your area. Chain shops like Midas, Car X, etc. won't do this type of work, so no use contacting them. The chain shops would want to install an entirely new muffler system from the first cat all the way back to include the final tail pipe for about $800...not where I like to spend my hard earned money.......btw.........welcome to this forum. Lots of good folks here to help you keep your Subie on the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valvestem Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 Thanks for your reply. I thought this might be the case. What's your opinion on getting one of these (exhaust gasket/similar flange) and patching it up with putty? Just for 2-3 weeks or so, until I can get some time off of work.. It's worth a try, until a proper remedy is found. Don't use the car without windows down because of the Carbon Monoxide issue, from a possible leak. IMO the answer given where you find a cut and weld shop sounds good as well. Maybe they can just weld in a new flange and reconnect to to the original piping, without replacing all the way back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 A decent muffler shop should be able to fix that. Don't worry about Carbon monoxide. I had a Chevy caprice that the exhaust system fell off of (including the cat) just past the Y pipe. Rode with it like that for 6 months and I'm fine.... I think... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 http://www.smarteck.ca/images/Uni-Split.jpg This is what you need, it's a split flange that bolts together and replicates everything that rusted off. No welding or cutting needed. You may need to grind down the rusted remains of the ears a bit, but leave the collar there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valvestem Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 http://www.smarteck.ca/images/Uni-Split.jpg This is what you need, it's a split flange that bolts together and replicates everything that rusted off. No welding or cutting needed. You may need to grind down the rusted remains of the ears a bit, but leave the collar there. Perfect! That just maybe what he needs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 Ditto on the split flange. I am having this exact same issue, in fact, on a '96 Legacy as well. I bought two size split flanges, one is 1-3/4" to 2" (this size seems to be hard to find, but autozone has them). I think this is the right size as it measures at about 1-7/8" from what I can see. The other size is 2" to 2-1/4" but I think that may be too big. You probably also need a new donut gasket. If you unhook the two rubber bumper things that hold the exhaust up, it will pivot down at the supports at the muffler making it easier to get at the stuff. On mine anyway, the weld spot or flared spot on the back of the rear cat is still there, and I am thinking that will be very helpful in keeping the split flange from coming off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec03 Posted October 16, 2009 Share Posted October 16, 2009 I had the same problem [on the flange just ahead of the muffler]. Midas DID weld it up for me. I was surprised that they would do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.